FW: (SBIGUSER) Takahashi Mounts


Ray Gralak <ray@...>
 

This was just posted on SBIGUSER by Wil Milan.

Charles or anybody else have any comments on the problems
Wil mentions? I have had my OTA head toward the pedestal
before with my 1200 GTO (my fault - not calibrated properly,
but I stopped it in time).

And I have always wondered if there was an easy way to flip
the OTA 180 degrees to the opposite side of the mount (and to
the same target I was imaging).

-Ray Gralak

-----Original Message-----
From: sbiguser-errors@lists.best.com
[mailto:sbiguser-errors@lists.best.com] On Behalf Of Wil Milan
Sent: Wednesday, March 22, 2000 6:27 AM
To: sbiguser@lists.best.com
Subject: RE: (SBIGUSER) Takahashi Mounts


Steve Leikind wrote:

However, I do not want to be the
beta tester for a new product that could have the potential to cause
many headaches. That goes for any company that has gotten into any new
line.
I don't understand. The AP go-to system is fairly new too, and I presume
you've been waiting since it was very new. Are new products all bad, except
for new AP products?

I think what nags at me is what seems to be putting AP on a pedestal. I've
owned an AP mount and have another one on order, and I agree AP generally
makes excellent gear. But AP is not the only maker of excellent astro gear,
and not everything they've made has been wonderful and flawless. (Remember
the old 706 mount?)

I don't think I've ever
seen a complaint about the Astro-Physics product line. Something to
think about. For now, I'm waiting on my AP-900GTO mount.
I've been on the waiting list for a 900 and 1200 too, but I've been having
second thoughts. My primary reason for wanting to get one of these is for
unattended remote operation, but over the last few months I've had
opportunity to work with a couple of friends using these mounts (a 900GTO
and a 1200GTO), and something has me concerned: On two occasions I've seen
the mount try to drive the OTA through the pier. Instead of trying to slew
the OTA over top, it tried to slew it underneath, i.e., through the pier. On
both occasions it required an emergency stop to keep the OTA (6" refractors
in both cases) from being rammed into the pier tube.

I've discussed this with Charles Sinsofsky, who wrote the software for these
mounts. He explained that if the mount is properly calibrated and
programmed, it will not do that. That may well be, but I think that there
should be some simple automatic safety mechanism built into the mount that
keeps it from slamming the tube into the pier, regardless of what the
operator does or fails to do. Not having such a simple safeguard built in
is, to me, a design flaw. If someone hasn't already smacked an expensive OTA
into the pier, then it's only a matter of time before it happens to someone,
probably someone who is not standing there ready to hit the emergency stop.

The first time I saw the foregoing happen, the owner of the mount was
fumbling for a way to stop it as the OTA raced at full speed toward the
pier. When it became obvious what was happening, several of us who were
bystanders stood staring in horrified fascination, like we were watching an
auto accident happen. At the last moment two of us grabbed for the power
cord at the same time, about to yank the power to avert disaster, when my
friend figured out the emergency stop on the hand controller and stopped it.
It left me with a very uneasy feeling: What if this had happened while it
was running unattended, or if my back had been turned, as it might be in the
kind of automated operation for which the GTO mounts are designed?

A related problem, or perhaps a variant of the same problem, is that when
slewing to far-southerly objects the AP GTO system sometimes slews the mount
so that it ends up with the OTA down very low and the counterweights high in
the air. A human operator would have flipped it the other way, with the OTA
on top and the counterweights on the bottom. In both cases I've seen this,
the solution was do do a manual 180-degree slew to re-orient the scope. That
too made me wonder about automated operation, particularly if one is not
there to see the problem and correct it manually.

So now I'm wondering if I really want one of these mounts, or if I should
look for something else. The Tak mounts I've played with have all been
superb, with quality of manufacture and operation at least equal to AP
mounts I've owned and used. Will the Tak go-to system work better for
unattended operation? Does it have limit switches or something similar? I
don't know, but I do like the fact that I can buy such well-made mounts
right off the shelf. Just like AP, the Tak mounts probably aren't perfect
either, and Takahashi shouldn't be put on a pedestal any more than AP. But
having them available is a real plus (or at least they are for now).

Wil Milan
"The heavens praise your
wonders, O Lord..." Psalm 89:5
http://www.astrophotographer.com/


Charles Sinsofsky <strfire@...>
 

Hello All,
that message you are writing about Ray is VERY OLD and was talked about
sometime ago. No the mount can not hit the pier if it is simply started with
the zenith at the right place.

A new feature I have recently added to the telescope / mount hand
controller for 2.7 is the ability to alter the position the zenith. ie:
actually moving the zenith +6 hrs or -6hrs as desired so that for
astrophotographers this will permit longer stays on the same side of the
mount.

Actually having the telescope head hit the pier side is a problem with
setup and not with actually usage. The mount as long as it knows the
date/and time and the position of the zenith is it truly impossible for it
to hit the pier side. But be carefull to remember (the mount) must know
those values so that it knows where it is at all times.

Astro-physics will be making the 2.7 available soon. I am almost done
with the internet based updating system so that people will be able to
upgrade their mounts to the new level.

- Charles Sinsofsky
www.digitalskyvoice.com
email: strfire@attglobal.net

----- Original Message -----
From: Ray Gralak <ray@gralak.com>
To: <ap-gto@egroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 22, 2000 10:44 AM
Subject: [ap-gto] FW: (SBIGUSER) Takahashi Mounts


This was just posted on SBIGUSER by Wil Milan.

Charles or anybody else have any comments on the problems
Wil mentions? I have had my OTA head toward the pedestal
before with my 1200 GTO (my fault - not calibrated properly,
but I stopped it in time).

And I have always wondered if there was an easy way to flip
the OTA 180 degrees to the opposite side of the mount (and to
the same target I was imaging).

-Ray Gralak

-----Original Message-----
From: sbiguser-errors@lists.best.com
[mailto:sbiguser-errors@lists.best.com] On Behalf Of Wil Milan
Sent: Wednesday, March 22, 2000 6:27 AM
To: sbiguser@lists.best.com
Subject: RE: (SBIGUSER) Takahashi Mounts


Steve Leikind wrote:

However, I do not want to be the
beta tester for a new product that could have the potential to cause
many headaches. That goes for any company that has gotten into any new
line.
I don't understand. The AP go-to system is fairly new too, and I presume
you've been waiting since it was very new. Are new products all bad,
except
for new AP products?

I think what nags at me is what seems to be putting AP on a pedestal. I've
owned an AP mount and have another one on order, and I agree AP generally
makes excellent gear. But AP is not the only maker of excellent astro
gear,
and not everything they've made has been wonderful and flawless. (Remember
the old 706 mount?)

I don't think I've ever
seen a complaint about the Astro-Physics product line. Something to
think about. For now, I'm waiting on my AP-900GTO mount.
I've been on the waiting list for a 900 and 1200 too, but I've been having
second thoughts. My primary reason for wanting to get one of these is for
unattended remote operation, but over the last few months I've had
opportunity to work with a couple of friends using these mounts (a 900GTO
and a 1200GTO), and something has me concerned: On two occasions I've seen
the mount try to drive the OTA through the pier. Instead of trying to slew
the OTA over top, it tried to slew it underneath, i.e., through the pier.
On
both occasions it required an emergency stop to keep the OTA (6"
refractors
in both cases) from being rammed into the pier tube.

I've discussed this with Charles Sinsofsky, who wrote the software for
these
mounts. He explained that if the mount is properly calibrated and
programmed, it will not do that. That may well be, but I think that there
should be some simple automatic safety mechanism built into the mount that
keeps it from slamming the tube into the pier, regardless of what the
operator does or fails to do. Not having such a simple safeguard built in
is, to me, a design flaw. If someone hasn't already smacked an expensive
OTA
into the pier, then it's only a matter of time before it happens to
someone,
probably someone who is not standing there ready to hit the emergency
stop.

The first time I saw the foregoing happen, the owner of the mount was
fumbling for a way to stop it as the OTA raced at full speed toward the
pier. When it became obvious what was happening, several of us who were
bystanders stood staring in horrified fascination, like we were watching
an
auto accident happen. At the last moment two of us grabbed for the power
cord at the same time, about to yank the power to avert disaster, when my
friend figured out the emergency stop on the hand controller and stopped
it.
It left me with a very uneasy feeling: What if this had happened while it
was running unattended, or if my back had been turned, as it might be in
the
kind of automated operation for which the GTO mounts are designed?

A related problem, or perhaps a variant of the same problem, is that when
slewing to far-southerly objects the AP GTO system sometimes slews the
mount
so that it ends up with the OTA down very low and the counterweights high
in
the air. A human operator would have flipped it the other way, with the
OTA
on top and the counterweights on the bottom. In both cases I've seen this,
the solution was do do a manual 180-degree slew to re-orient the scope.
That
too made me wonder about automated operation, particularly if one is not
there to see the problem and correct it manually.

So now I'm wondering if I really want one of these mounts, or if I should
look for something else. The Tak mounts I've played with have all been
superb, with quality of manufacture and operation at least equal to AP
mounts I've owned and used. Will the Tak go-to system work better for
unattended operation? Does it have limit switches or something similar? I
don't know, but I do like the fact that I can buy such well-made mounts
right off the shelf. Just like AP, the Tak mounts probably aren't perfect
either, and Takahashi shouldn't be put on a pedestal any more than AP. But
having them available is a real plus (or at least they are for now).

Wil Milan
"The heavens praise your
wonders, O Lord..." Psalm 89:5
http://www.astrophotographer.com/




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Ray Gralak <ray@...>
 

Hi Charles,

Thanks for the quick response! Wil Milan must have reposted
an old message then. His post was in reply to people complaining
that they are not able to get an AP mount even though they have
been on the waiting list for quite some time. My $0.02 is that
is the booming economy that has driven the demand up for excellent
products like the AP Goto mounts, which cannot be easily mass produced.

I admit my case of the OTA going toward the mount was my unfamiliarity
of the operation of the mount when it was new. Luckily I had read the
manual so I new how to stop it!

Take care,

-Ray Gralak

-----Original Message-----
From: Charles Sinsofsky [mailto:strfire@attglobal.net]
Sent: Wednesday, March 22, 2000 8:30 AM
To: ap-gto@egroups.com
Subject: [ap-gto] Re: FW: (SBIGUSER) Takahashi Mounts


Hello All,
that message you are writing about Ray is VERY OLD and was
talked about
sometime ago. No the mount can not hit the pier if it is
simply started with
the zenith at the right place.

A new feature I have recently added to the telescope / mount hand
controller for 2.7 is the ability to alter the position the
zenith. ie:
actually moving the zenith +6 hrs or -6hrs as desired so that for
astrophotographers this will permit longer stays on the same
side of the
mount.

Actually having the telescope head hit the pier side is a
problem with
setup and not with actually usage. The mount as long as it knows the
date/and time and the position of the zenith is it truly
impossible for it
to hit the pier side. But be carefull to remember (the mount)
must know
those values so that it knows where it is at all times.

Astro-physics will be making the 2.7 available soon. I am
almost done
with the internet based updating system so that people will be able to
upgrade their mounts to the new level.

- Charles Sinsofsky
www.digitalskyvoice.com
email: strfire@attglobal.net

----- Original Message -----
From: Ray Gralak <ray@gralak.com>
To: <ap-gto@egroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 22, 2000 10:44 AM
Subject: [ap-gto] FW: (SBIGUSER) Takahashi Mounts


This was just posted on SBIGUSER by Wil Milan.

Charles or anybody else have any comments on the problems
Wil mentions? I have had my OTA head toward the pedestal
before with my 1200 GTO (my fault - not calibrated properly,
but I stopped it in time).

And I have always wondered if there was an easy way to flip
the OTA 180 degrees to the opposite side of the mount (and to
the same target I was imaging).

-Ray Gralak

-----Original Message-----
From: sbiguser-errors@lists.best.com
[mailto:sbiguser-errors@lists.best.com] On Behalf Of Wil Milan
Sent: Wednesday, March 22, 2000 6:27 AM
To: sbiguser@lists.best.com
Subject: RE: (SBIGUSER) Takahashi Mounts


Steve Leikind wrote:

However, I do not want to be the
beta tester for a new product that could have the
potential to cause
many headaches. That goes for any company that has gotten
into any new
line.
I don't understand. The AP go-to system is fairly new too,
and I presume
you've been waiting since it was very new. Are new products all bad,
except
for new AP products?

I think what nags at me is what seems to be putting AP on a
pedestal. I've
owned an AP mount and have another one on order, and I
agree AP generally
makes excellent gear. But AP is not the only maker of
excellent astro
gear,
and not everything they've made has been wonderful and
flawless. (Remember
the old 706 mount?)

I don't think I've ever
seen a complaint about the Astro-Physics product line.
Something to
think about. For now, I'm waiting on my AP-900GTO mount.
I've been on the waiting list for a 900 and 1200 too, but
I've been having
second thoughts. My primary reason for wanting to get one
of these is for
unattended remote operation, but over the last few months I've had
opportunity to work with a couple of friends using these
mounts (a 900GTO
and a 1200GTO), and something has me concerned: On two
occasions I've seen
the mount try to drive the OTA through the pier. Instead of
trying to slew
the OTA over top, it tried to slew it underneath, i.e.,
through the pier.
On
both occasions it required an emergency stop to keep the OTA (6"
refractors
in both cases) from being rammed into the pier tube.

I've discussed this with Charles Sinsofsky, who wrote the
software for
these
mounts. He explained that if the mount is properly calibrated and
programmed, it will not do that. That may well be, but I
think that there
should be some simple automatic safety mechanism built into
the mount that
keeps it from slamming the tube into the pier, regardless
of what the
operator does or fails to do. Not having such a simple
safeguard built in
is, to me, a design flaw. If someone hasn't already smacked
an expensive
OTA
into the pier, then it's only a matter of time before it happens to
someone,
probably someone who is not standing there ready to hit the
emergency
stop.

The first time I saw the foregoing happen, the owner of the
mount was
fumbling for a way to stop it as the OTA raced at full
speed toward the
pier. When it became obvious what was happening, several of
us who were
bystanders stood staring in horrified fascination, like we
were watching
an
auto accident happen. At the last moment two of us grabbed
for the power
cord at the same time, about to yank the power to avert
disaster, when my
friend figured out the emergency stop on the hand
controller and stopped
it.
It left me with a very uneasy feeling: What if this had
happened while it
was running unattended, or if my back had been turned, as
it might be in
the
kind of automated operation for which the GTO mounts are designed?

A related problem, or perhaps a variant of the same
problem, is that when
slewing to far-southerly objects the AP GTO system
sometimes slews the
mount
so that it ends up with the OTA down very low and the
counterweights high
in
the air. A human operator would have flipped it the other
way, with the
OTA
on top and the counterweights on the bottom. In both cases
I've seen this,
the solution was do do a manual 180-degree slew to
re-orient the scope.
That
too made me wonder about automated operation, particularly
if one is not
there to see the problem and correct it manually.

So now I'm wondering if I really want one of these mounts,
or if I should
look for something else. The Tak mounts I've played with
have all been
superb, with quality of manufacture and operation at least
equal to AP
mounts I've owned and used. Will the Tak go-to system work
better for
unattended operation? Does it have limit switches or
something similar? I
don't know, but I do like the fact that I can buy such
well-made mounts
right off the shelf. Just like AP, the Tak mounts probably
aren't perfect
either, and Takahashi shouldn't be put on a pedestal any
more than AP. But
having them available is a real plus (or at least they are for now).

Wil Milan
"The heavens praise your
wonders, O Lord..." Psalm 89:5
http://www.astrophotographer.com/




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Ray Gralak <ray@...>
 

manual so I new how to stop it!
^^^
But not how to proofread... I meant "knew"!

-Ray


Derek Wong <dawong@...>
 

Ray Gralak wrote:

I admit my case of the OTA going toward the mount was my unfamiliarity
of the operation of the mount when it was new. Luckily I had read the
manual so I new how to stop it!
Hi Ray:

I experienced this as well. I was switching from manual mode to GOTO,
did an incorrect alignment, and before I knew it my refractor was
slewing toward the tripod! I disengaged the clutches, but the OTA did
contact the tripod for a few seconds. Thankfully, the drive slipped, so
no damage was done to anything.

I agree with Charles that this does NOT happen if the mount is set up
correctly, so unattended scopes should be just fine.

Derek


Ray Gralak <ray@...>
 

Hi Derek,

Glad to see you didn't damage anything!

I have used my mount many times remotely (from within my
house) and not had any unexpected incidents when CCD imaging.

-Ray

-----Original Message-----
From: Derek Wong [mailto:dawong@earthlink.net]
Sent: Wednesday, March 22, 2000 9:36 AM
To: ap-gto@egroups.com
Subject: [ap-gto] Re: FW: (SBIGUSER) Takahashi Mounts


Ray Gralak wrote:

I admit my case of the OTA going toward the mount was my
unfamiliarity
of the operation of the mount when it was new. Luckily I
had read the
manual so I new how to stop it!
Hi Ray:

I experienced this as well. I was switching from manual mode to GOTO,
did an incorrect alignment, and before I knew it my refractor was
slewing toward the tripod! I disengaged the clutches, but the OTA did
contact the tripod for a few seconds. Thankfully, the drive
slipped, so
no damage was done to anything.

I agree with Charles that this does NOT happen if the mount is set up
correctly, so unattended scopes should be just fine.

Derek

--------------------------------------------------------------
----------
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tonight and every night you can win $1,000,000. Sign up
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Ron Wodaski <ronw@...>
 

Still, it's too easy for it to happen. Not saying I expect to have every
possibility covered, but this is an easy situation to install limit switches
for. If you are going to have a robotic mount, the robot has to smart enough
not to smash the equipment. Who knows what kinds of situations might occur?
I know from using my AP 600 that I found some situations that had not been
anticipated by the software, which caused the mount to slew endlessly. Some
things are best in software, others are best in hardware. The best way to
prevent stuff from crashing into real obstacles are limit switches. I never,
ever slew my mount over large distances unless I'm watching. I don't care
how many reassurances I get that this can't happen if I do everything
"properly." Who knows if my definition of proper, and the
manufacturer's/programmer's definition are the same? The things I did with
the mount that resulted in endless slewing were quite reasonable as far as I
was concerned, and there were no warnings not to do them.

For example, I thought it was pretty reasonable to slew the mount without
aligning it; why should I involve the computer to look at the moon, or
Jupiter?

As a former hardware/software test lab manager, I know that users will
invent things that designers, developers, and testers cannot anticipate. I
hope the feedback on the problems gets incorporated into future revs of
these products.

My own feedback on the AP 600GTO, since Charles is listening:

* I found a way to (repeatedly and reliably) get the mount to slew
endlessly, with no concern for the pier or anything else, including whether
the motors were overloaded, even after alignment. I sent the info to AP; if
you haven't gotten it yet, send me email and I'll provide details.

* As mentioned above, there are plenty of situations where one just wants to
slew the mount around without aligning to anything. Right now, the best one
can do is to resume from park. The mount should not have to know where it
is. <g>

* The procedure for two-star alignment is very challenging. In some
situations, moving one-half the distance in two such disparate coordinate
systems (polar and alt-az) is truly mind boggling. In addition, the behavior
of the system when either alt or az alignment is close, while the other
remains significantly out of adjustment, should be taken into account in the
instructions. (Namely, if oscillation occurs in one or the other,
discontinue adjustments to that axis, and focus on the other until the
magnitude of the difference is similar). I can't help wondering if there
aren't some wholesale changes that would make two-star alignment easier, or
perhaps it's just a hard thing to do? I know folks who have just given up on
this one.

* The daytime alignment procedure works really well. There; some positive
feedback. <g>

* On the hardware side, the aforementioned limit switches would be useful,
at least as an option, for robotic applications.

* On the 600 at least, polar alignment is challenging due to the geometry of
the mount base - tightening anything tends to throw alignment off by quite a
bit. (This explains why any 600 mount you find in use will have quite a bit
of paint scraped off around the adjustment screws. <g>) Why do so few mounts
come with micrometer-style alt-az adjustments? These would seem to be
essential for rock-solid polar alignment.

Ron Wodaski

Ron Wodaski

-----Original Message-----
From: Derek Wong [mailto:dawong@earthlink.net]
Sent: Wednesday, March 22, 2000 9:36 AM
To: ap-gto@egroups.com
Subject: [ap-gto] Re: FW: (SBIGUSER) Takahashi Mounts


Ray Gralak wrote:

I admit my case of the OTA going toward the mount was my unfamiliarity
of the operation of the mount when it was new. Luckily I had read the
manual so I new how to stop it!
Hi Ray:

I experienced this as well. I was switching from manual mode to GOTO,
did an incorrect alignment, and before I knew it my refractor was
slewing toward the tripod! I disengaged the clutches, but the OTA did
contact the tripod for a few seconds. Thankfully, the drive slipped, so
no damage was done to anything.

I agree with Charles that this does NOT happen if the mount is set up
correctly, so unattended scopes should be just fine.

Derek

------------------------------------------------------------------------
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Derek Wong <dawong@...>
 

Ron:

You have some great suggestions, and both Charles and AP are getting
these messages.

* The procedure for two-star alignment is very challenging. In some
situations, moving one-half the distance in two such disparate coordinate
systems (polar and alt-az) is truly mind boggling...
Go to message #10 of this group for another method. For those who don't
know the shortcut, you can get there on egroups by using the message
calendar and selecting June.

* On the 600 at least, polar alignment is challenging due to the geometry of
the mount base - tightening anything tends to throw alignment off by quite a
bit. (This explains why any 600 mount you find in use will have quite a bit
of paint scraped off around the adjustment screws. <g>) Why do so few mounts
come with micrometer-style alt-az adjustments? These would seem to be
essential for rock-solid polar alignment.
I had the same issues--some people on the group use nylon washers (I
can't remember where that post was) and tightening both sides at the
same time.

Derek


Stephen E. Russell <sjruss55@...>
 

Hi Ron and Derek,
I've got a 600gto and also wished the azimuth adjustment was a little more
refined. So I tried that suggestion to use nylon washers and use two hex
wrenches. I've placed the nylon washers on top of the existing steel
washers. BTW the nylon washers are .06in thick.
This has improved the adjustment somewhat. I think because the nylon washers
have a little give to them that you can keep the tension on the screws and
still make fine adjustments. When I snug down the screws at the same time
now the star only shifts around 1 +/-.5 arc minutes or so. I think is was
more like 2 or 3 arc minutes before. I don't know if just using the nylon
washers would be better or not. I was thinking that eventually the nylon
washer will crack from the repeated cycles of tightening so I wanted to keep
the steel washer in place. Maybe I'm being too cautious here. Maybe the key
is in using two hex wrenches at the same time to tighten down the screws.
Speaking of the two hex wrenches, I was trying to think of another way to
tighten down the screws without using the wrenches. I like the knobs on my
400QMD mount, no wrenches to mess with or drop. The problem is that there is
not enough clearance to add a conventional knob. The only idea I could think
of was borrowing the idea from my TV SDF tube ring which has that "bat
handle" for tightening down the ring. The 600 uses a M6 screw so would have
to get a machine shop to make some up. I could sketch up the design, but the
parts might be pricey to get made. If anyone has a "off the shelf" idea for
this let me know.
Stephen

-----Original Message-----
From: Derek Wong <dawong@earthlink.net>
To: ap-gto@egroups.com <ap-gto@egroups.com>
Date: Wednesday, March 22, 2000 1:08 PM
Subject: [ap-gto] Re: FW: (SBIGUSER) Takahashi Mounts


Ron:

You have some great suggestions, and both Charles and AP are getting
these messages.

* The procedure for two-star alignment is very challenging. In some
situations, moving one-half the distance in two such disparate coordinate
systems (polar and alt-az) is truly mind boggling...
Go to message #10 of this group for another method. For those who don't
know the shortcut, you can get there on egroups by using the message
calendar and selecting June.

* On the 600 at least, polar alignment is challenging due to the geometry
of
the mount base - tightening anything tends to throw alignment off by
quite a
bit. (This explains why any 600 mount you find in use will have quite a
bit
of paint scraped off around the adjustment screws. <g>) Why do so few
mounts
come with micrometer-style alt-az adjustments? These would seem to be
essential for rock-solid polar alignment.
I had the same issues--some people on the group use nylon washers (I
can't remember where that post was) and tightening both sides at the
same time.

Derek


Jeffrey Gortatowsky
 

Ron Wodaski wrote:
I have ordered three different types of clamping handles, and they should be
here by the first of next week. I ordered male and female versions of
Glad to have been of service.
Jeff


mrrockets@...
 

"stephen e. russell" <sjruss5-@dpc.net> wrote:
handle" for tightening down the ring. The 600 uses a M6 screw so
would have
to get a machine shop to make some up. I could sketch up the design,
but the
parts might be pricey to get made. If anyone has a "off the shelf"
idea for
this let me know.
Stephen
Stephen,
I don't have a 600 (yet! I'm in line...) but you might look at the
McMaster-Carr catalog online at http://www.mcmaster.com and type in the
search term "knob". You may find something that'll fit the bill. The
'bat handle' (why did I think you were referring to Batman???) knobs
are on page 1868.

Hope this helps.
Jeff


Ron Wodaski <ronw@...>
 

The one's on page 1868 are stainless steel, and very nice at around $30-40
each, but no M6 studs; smallest is M8. Page 1870 has a die-cast zinc model
available in a much wider selection of sizes, including M6 with stud lengths
ranging from 15-45mm (top right of page). Prices are around $5 each for
these.

To find these clamps, to go the McMaster site (http://www.mcmaster.com/) and
search for "Stainless Steel Adjustable Clamping Handle With Ball Knob".

I'm going to order these and see how well they work.

Ron Wodaski

-----Original Message-----
From: mrrockets@home.com [mailto:mrrockets@home.com]
Sent: Thursday, March 23, 2000 9:31 AM
To: ap-gto@eGroups.com
Subject: [ap-gto] Re: FW: (SBIGUSER) Takahashi Mounts


"stephen e. russell" <sjruss5-@dpc.net> wrote:
handle" for tightening down the ring. The 600 uses a M6 screw so
would have
to get a machine shop to make some up. I could sketch up the design,
but the
parts might be pricey to get made. If anyone has a "off the shelf"
idea for
this let me know.
Stephen
Stephen,
I don't have a 600 (yet! I'm in line...) but you might look at the
McMaster-Carr catalog online at http://www.mcmaster.com and type in the
search term "knob". You may find something that'll fit the bill. The
'bat handle' (why did I think you were referring to Batman???) knobs
are on page 1868.

Hope this helps.
Jeff



------------------------------------------------------------------------
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Ron Wodaski <ronw@...>
 

I have ordered three different types of clamping handles, and they should be
here by the first of next week. I ordered male and female versions of
"Stainless Steel Adjustable Clamping Handle With Ball Knob", as well as a
quick-release style of handle that looks promising, "Teardrop Plastic Safety
Adj Clamping Handle".

I will report on my experiences here, with photos on my web site.

Ron Wodaski

-----Original Message-----
From: Ron Wodaski [mailto:ronw@nwlink.com]
Sent: Thursday, March 23, 2000 9:56 AM
To: ap-gto@eGroups.com
Subject: [ap-gto] Re: FW: (SBIGUSER) Takahashi Mounts


The one's on page 1868 are stainless steel, and very nice at around $30-40
each, but no M6 studs; smallest is M8. Page 1870 has a die-cast zinc model
available in a much wider selection of sizes, including M6 with stud lengths
ranging from 15-45mm (top right of page). Prices are around $5 each for
these.

To find these clamps, to go the McMaster site (http://www.mcmaster.com/) and
search for "Stainless Steel Adjustable Clamping Handle With Ball Knob".

I'm going to order these and see how well they work.

Ron Wodaski

-----Original Message-----
From: mrrockets@home.com [mailto:mrrockets@home.com]
Sent: Thursday, March 23, 2000 9:31 AM
To: ap-gto@eGroups.com
Subject: [ap-gto] Re: FW: (SBIGUSER) Takahashi Mounts


"stephen e. russell" <sjruss5-@dpc.net> wrote:
handle" for tightening down the ring. The 600 uses a M6 screw so
would have
to get a machine shop to make some up. I could sketch up the design,
but the
parts might be pricey to get made. If anyone has a "off the shelf"
idea for
this let me know.
Stephen
Stephen,
I don't have a 600 (yet! I'm in line...) but you might look at the
McMaster-Carr catalog online at http://www.mcmaster.com and type in the
search term "knob". You may find something that'll fit the bill. The
'bat handle' (why did I think you were referring to Batman???) knobs
are on page 1868.

Hope this helps.
Jeff



------------------------------------------------------------------------
Play Games, Have Fun, Win a Trip - at pogo.com! What's the best game
you have ever played? Chances are it's at pogo.com. Visit today and
enter our $25,000 Games for Everyone sweepstakes! Refer your friends
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Chris Spratt
 

What were the catalog #s of each item?

Thanks,

Chris. Spratt



"ron wodaski" <ron-@nwlink.com> wrote:
original article:http://www.egroups.com/group/ap-gto/?start=411
I have ordered three different types of clamping handles, and they
should be
here by the first of next week. I ordered male and female versions of
"Stainless Steel Adjustable Clamping Handle With Ball Knob", as well
as a
quick-release style of handle that looks promising, "Teardrop Plastic
Safety
Adj Clamping Handle".

I will report on my experiences here, with photos on my web site.

Ron Wodaski

-----Original Message-----
From: Ron Wodaski [mailto:ronw@nwlink.com]
Sent: Thursday, March 23, 2000 9:56 AM
To: ap-gto@eGroups.com
Subject: [ap-gto] Re: FW: (SBIGUSER) Takahashi Mounts


The one's on page 1868 are stainless steel, and very nice at around
$30-40
each, but no M6 studs; smallest is M8. Page 1870 has a die-cast zinc
model
available in a much wider selection of sizes, including M6 with stud
lengths
ranging from 15-45mm (top right of page). Prices are around $5 each
for
these.

To find these clamps, to go the McMaster site (http://www.mcmaster.co
m/) and
search for "Stainless Steel Adjustable Clamping Handle With Ball
Knob".

I'm going to order these and see how well they work.

Ron Wodaski

-----Original Message-----
From: mrrockets@home.com [mailto:mrrockets@home.com]
Sent: Thursday, March 23, 2000 9:31 AM
To: ap-gto@eGroups.com
Subject: [ap-gto] Re: FW: (SBIGUSER) Takahashi Mounts


"stephen e. russell" <sjruss5-@dpc.net> wrote:
handle" for tightening down the ring. The 600 uses a M6 screw so
would have
to get a machine shop to make some up. I could sketch up the design,
but the
parts might be pricey to get made. If anyone has a "off the shelf"
idea for
this let me know.
Stephen
Stephen,
I don't have a 600 (yet! I'm in line...) but you might look at the
McMaster-Carr catalog online at http://www.mcmaster.com and type in
the
search term "knob". You may find something that'll fit the bill. The
'bat handle' (why did I think you were referring to Batman???) knobs
are on page 1868.

Hope this helps.
Jeff



---------------------------------------------------------------------
---
Play Games, Have Fun, Win a Trip - at pogo.com! What's the best game
you have ever played? Chances are it's at pogo.com. Visit today and
enter our $25,000 Games for Everyone sweepstakes! Refer your friends
& earn extra entries!
http://click.egroups.com/1/1470/3/_/3615/_/953832689/

-- Easily schedule meetings and events using the group calendar!
-- http://www.egroups.com/cal?listname=ap-gto&m=1




Ron Wodaski <ronw@...>
 

I ordered two each of the following:

6848K36
6848K12
6610K33

The studded version are 20mm long, M6x1; the threaded version I will try,
with am M6x1 post, if the studded versions don't work.

Ron

-----Original Message-----
From: Chris. Spratt [mailto:cspratt@islandnet.com]
Sent: Thursday, March 23, 2000 2:13 PM
To: ap-gto@eGroups.com
Subject: [ap-gto] Re: FW: (SBIGUSER) Takahashi Mounts


What were the catalog #s of each item?

Thanks,

Chris. Spratt



"ron wodaski" <ron-@nwlink.com> wrote:
original article:http://www.egroups.com/group/ap-gto/?start=411
I have ordered three different types of clamping handles, and they
should be
here by the first of next week. I ordered male and female versions of
"Stainless Steel Adjustable Clamping Handle With Ball Knob", as well
as a
quick-release style of handle that looks promising, "Teardrop Plastic
Safety
Adj Clamping Handle".

I will report on my experiences here, with photos on my web site.

Ron Wodaski

-----Original Message-----
From: Ron Wodaski [mailto:ronw@nwlink.com]
Sent: Thursday, March 23, 2000 9:56 AM
To: ap-gto@eGroups.com
Subject: [ap-gto] Re: FW: (SBIGUSER) Takahashi Mounts


The one's on page 1868 are stainless steel, and very nice at around
$30-40
each, but no M6 studs; smallest is M8. Page 1870 has a die-cast zinc
model
available in a much wider selection of sizes, including M6 with stud
lengths
ranging from 15-45mm (top right of page). Prices are around $5 each
for
these.

To find these clamps, to go the McMaster site (http://www.mcmaster.co
m/) and
search for "Stainless Steel Adjustable Clamping Handle With Ball
Knob".

I'm going to order these and see how well they work.

Ron Wodaski

-----Original Message-----
From: mrrockets@home.com [mailto:mrrockets@home.com]
Sent: Thursday, March 23, 2000 9:31 AM
To: ap-gto@eGroups.com
Subject: [ap-gto] Re: FW: (SBIGUSER) Takahashi Mounts


"stephen e. russell" <sjruss5-@dpc.net> wrote:
handle" for tightening down the ring. The 600 uses a M6 screw so
would have
to get a machine shop to make some up. I could sketch up the design,
but the
parts might be pricey to get made. If anyone has a "off the shelf"
idea for
this let me know.
Stephen
Stephen,
I don't have a 600 (yet! I'm in line...) but you might look at the
McMaster-Carr catalog online at http://www.mcmaster.com and type in
the
search term "knob". You may find something that'll fit the bill. The
'bat handle' (why did I think you were referring to Batman???) knobs
are on page 1868.

Hope this helps.
Jeff



---------------------------------------------------------------------
---
Play Games, Have Fun, Win a Trip - at pogo.com! What's the best game
you have ever played? Chances are it's at pogo.com. Visit today and
enter our $25,000 Games for Everyone sweepstakes! Refer your friends
& earn extra entries!
http://click.egroups.com/1/1470/3/_/3615/_/953832689/

-- Easily schedule meetings and events using the group calendar!
-- http://www.egroups.com/cal?listname=ap-gto&m=1




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Ron Wodaski <ronw@...>
 

I received the bat-wing handles from McMaster-Carr today. Part number
6848K36 works very well, and I will have images up shortly showing what it
is and how it works out. Briefly, it has threads that match the AP-supplied
M6x1 20mm cap screw supplied by AP for the base of the AP 600 mounts. The
bat-wind handle is 40mm in length. A spring causes the handle and the M6x1
screw to engage each other, so that if you turn the handle, you are turning
the screw. If you lift up on the handle, you can reposition it without
engaging the M6x1 screw.

When in place on my AP 600 GTO mount, one-quarter turn is sufficient to
release tension and adjust the mount in azimuth, so I may not even have to
dis-engage. However, you NEED the spring-loaded release mechanism to attach
the handle to the mount, since you cannot turn 360 degrees, only about 180.

Another positive is that I no longer have to have an Allen wrench handy for
tightening and loosening these. Finally, when I have the tension just right,
I can move the bat-wing handle flush with the mount base by lifting it and
repositioning it.

A nice solution to the problem.

The other parts are on back order, will let you know if any of those are
useful.

Ron Wodaski

-----Original Message-----
From: Ron Wodaski [mailto:ronw@nwlink.com]
Sent: Thursday, March 23, 2000 2:27 PM
To: ap-gto@eGroups.com
Subject: [ap-gto] Re: FW: (SBIGUSER) Takahashi Mounts


I ordered two each of the following:

6848K36
6848K12
6610K33

The studded version are 20mm long, M6x1; the threaded version I will try,
with am M6x1 post, if the studded versions don't work.

Ron

-----Original Message-----
From: Chris. Spratt [mailto:cspratt@islandnet.com]
Sent: Thursday, March 23, 2000 2:13 PM
To: ap-gto@eGroups.com
Subject: [ap-gto] Re: FW: (SBIGUSER) Takahashi Mounts


What were the catalog #s of each item?

Thanks,

Chris. Spratt



"ron wodaski" <ron-@nwlink.com> wrote:
original article:http://www.egroups.com/group/ap-gto/?start=411
I have ordered three different types of clamping handles, and they
should be
here by the first of next week. I ordered male and female versions of
"Stainless Steel Adjustable Clamping Handle With Ball Knob", as well
as a
quick-release style of handle that looks promising, "Teardrop Plastic
Safety
Adj Clamping Handle".

I will report on my experiences here, with photos on my web site.

Ron Wodaski

-----Original Message-----
From: Ron Wodaski [mailto:ronw@nwlink.com]
Sent: Thursday, March 23, 2000 9:56 AM
To: ap-gto@eGroups.com
Subject: [ap-gto] Re: FW: (SBIGUSER) Takahashi Mounts


The one's on page 1868 are stainless steel, and very nice at around
$30-40
each, but no M6 studs; smallest is M8. Page 1870 has a die-cast zinc
model
available in a much wider selection of sizes, including M6 with stud
lengths
ranging from 15-45mm (top right of page). Prices are around $5 each
for
these.

To find these clamps, to go the McMaster site (http://www.mcmaster.co
m/) and
search for "Stainless Steel Adjustable Clamping Handle With Ball
Knob".

I'm going to order these and see how well they work.

Ron Wodaski

-----Original Message-----
From: mrrockets@home.com [mailto:mrrockets@home.com]
Sent: Thursday, March 23, 2000 9:31 AM
To: ap-gto@eGroups.com
Subject: [ap-gto] Re: FW: (SBIGUSER) Takahashi Mounts


"stephen e. russell" <sjruss5-@dpc.net> wrote:
handle" for tightening down the ring. The 600 uses a M6 screw so
would have
to get a machine shop to make some up. I could sketch up the design,
but the
parts might be pricey to get made. If anyone has a "off the shelf"
idea for
this let me know.
Stephen
Stephen,
I don't have a 600 (yet! I'm in line...) but you might look at the
McMaster-Carr catalog online at http://www.mcmaster.com and type in
the
search term "knob". You may find something that'll fit the bill. The
'bat handle' (why did I think you were referring to Batman???) knobs
are on page 1868.

Hope this helps.
Jeff



---------------------------------------------------------------------
---
Play Games, Have Fun, Win a Trip - at pogo.com! What's the best game
you have ever played? Chances are it's at pogo.com. Visit today and
enter our $25,000 Games for Everyone sweepstakes! Refer your friends
& earn extra entries!
http://click.egroups.com/1/1470/3/_/3615/_/953832689/

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-- http://www.egroups.com/cal?listname=ap-gto&m=1




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Stephen E. Russell <sjruss55@...>
 

Hi Ron,
Look forward to seeing your pictures of this part. The thing that I disliked
more than anything else was having to use one or now two Allen wrechces to
adjust while setting up. I always manage to knock them out of the cap screws
when using them.
AP has had this design out for many years now so I guess this bothered only
a few of us.
For me it was the only thing that I had wanted to improve upon and I think
I'm a rather fussy person about these things.
Thanks to you and Jeff for doing the "leg" work for me on this one. I will
have
to give TV credit for their "bat handle" clamp on my SDF clam shell for
inspiring me for this idea.
I wonder if we could get AP to incorporate stainless steel ones on the 600?
I'm sure that they have way to many other items to worry about than this
little improvement.
Stephen E. Russell

-----Original Message-----
From: Ron Wodaski <ronw@nwlink.com>
To: ap-gto@eGroups.com <ap-gto@eGroups.com>
Date: Friday, March 24, 2000 5:29 PM
Subject: [ap-gto] Re: FW: (SBIGUSER) Takahashi Mounts


I received the bat-wing handles from McMaster-Carr today. Part number
6848K36 works very well, and I will have images up shortly showing what it
is and how it works out. Briefly, it has threads that match the AP-supplied
M6x1 20mm cap screw supplied by AP for the base of the AP 600 mounts. The
bat-wind handle is 40mm in length. A spring causes the handle and the M6x1
screw to engage each other, so that if you turn the handle, you are turning
the screw. If you lift up on the handle, you can reposition it without
engaging the M6x1 screw.

When in place on my AP 600 GTO mount, one-quarter turn is sufficient to
release tension and adjust the mount in azimuth, so I may not even have to
dis-engage. However, you NEED the spring-loaded release mechanism to attach
the handle to the mount, since you cannot turn 360 degrees, only about 180.

Another positive is that I no longer have to have an Allen wrench handy for
tightening and loosening these. Finally, when I have the tension just
right,
I can move the bat-wing handle flush with the mount base by lifting it and
repositioning it.

A nice solution to the problem.

The other parts are on back order, will let you know if any of those are
useful.

Ron Wodaski

-----Original Message-----
From: Ron Wodaski [mailto:ronw@nwlink.com]
Sent: Thursday, March 23, 2000 2:27 PM
To: ap-gto@eGroups.com
Subject: [ap-gto] Re: FW: (SBIGUSER) Takahashi Mounts


I ordered two each of the following:

6848K36
6848K12
6610K33

The studded version are 20mm long, M6x1; the threaded version I will try,
with am M6x1 post, if the studded versions don't work.

Ron

-----Original Message-----
From: Chris. Spratt [mailto:cspratt@islandnet.com]
Sent: Thursday, March 23, 2000 2:13 PM
To: ap-gto@eGroups.com
Subject: [ap-gto] Re: FW: (SBIGUSER) Takahashi Mounts


What were the catalog #s of each item?

Thanks,

Chris. Spratt



"ron wodaski" <ron-@nwlink.com> wrote:
original article:http://www.egroups.com/group/ap-gto/?start=411
I have ordered three different types of clamping handles, and they
should be
here by the first of next week. I ordered male and female versions of
"Stainless Steel Adjustable Clamping Handle With Ball Knob", as well
as a
quick-release style of handle that looks promising, "Teardrop Plastic
Safety
Adj Clamping Handle".

I will report on my experiences here, with photos on my web site.

Ron Wodaski

-----Original Message-----
From: Ron Wodaski [mailto:ronw@nwlink.com]
Sent: Thursday, March 23, 2000 9:56 AM
To: ap-gto@eGroups.com
Subject: [ap-gto] Re: FW: (SBIGUSER) Takahashi Mounts


The one's on page 1868 are stainless steel, and very nice at around
$30-40
each, but no M6 studs; smallest is M8. Page 1870 has a die-cast zinc
model
available in a much wider selection of sizes, including M6 with stud
lengths
ranging from 15-45mm (top right of page). Prices are around $5 each
for
these.

To find these clamps, to go the McMaster site (http://www.mcmaster.co
m/) and
search for "Stainless Steel Adjustable Clamping Handle With Ball
Knob".

I'm going to order these and see how well they work.

Ron Wodaski

-----Original Message-----
From: mrrockets@home.com [mailto:mrrockets@home.com]
Sent: Thursday, March 23, 2000 9:31 AM
To: ap-gto@eGroups.com
Subject: [ap-gto] Re: FW: (SBIGUSER) Takahashi Mounts


"stephen e. russell" <sjruss5-@dpc.net> wrote:
handle" for tightening down the ring. The 600 uses a M6 screw so
would have
to get a machine shop to make some up. I could sketch up the design,
but the
parts might be pricey to get made. If anyone has a "off the shelf"
idea for
this let me know.
Stephen
Stephen,
I don't have a 600 (yet! I'm in line...) but you might look at the
McMaster-Carr catalog online at http://www.mcmaster.com and type in
the
search term "knob". You may find something that'll fit the bill. The
'bat handle' (why did I think you were referring to Batman???) knobs
are on page 1868.

Hope this helps.
Jeff



---------------------------------------------------------------------
---
Play Games, Have Fun, Win a Trip - at pogo.com! What's the best game
you have ever played? Chances are it's at pogo.com. Visit today and
enter our $25,000 Games for Everyone sweepstakes! Refer your friends
& earn extra entries!
http://click.egroups.com/1/1470/3/_/3615/_/953832689/

-- Easily schedule meetings and events using the group calendar!
-- http://www.egroups.com/cal?listname=ap-gto&m=1




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Jim Fakatselis <jfakatse@...>
 

Have anyone considered using a similar stud for the altitude adjustment screw on
the 600E?. It may make polar alignment truly tools free!
Jim Fakatselis

"Stephen E. Russell" wrote:

Hi Ron,
Look forward to seeing your pictures of this part. The thing that I disliked
more than anything else was having to use one or now two Allen wrechces to
adjust while setting up. I always manage to knock them out of the cap screws
when using them.
AP has had this design out for many years now so I guess this bothered only
a few of us.
For me it was the only thing that I had wanted to improve upon and I think
I'm a rather fussy person about these things.
Thanks to you and Jeff for doing the "leg" work for me on this one. I will
have
to give TV credit for their "bat handle" clamp on my SDF clam shell for
inspiring me for this idea.
I wonder if we could get AP to incorporate stainless steel ones on the 600?
I'm sure that they have way to many other items to worry about than this
little improvement.
Stephen E. Russell

-----Original Message-----
From: Ron Wodaski <ronw@nwlink.com>
To: ap-gto@eGroups.com <ap-gto@eGroups.com>
Date: Friday, March 24, 2000 5:29 PM
Subject: [ap-gto] Re: FW: (SBIGUSER) Takahashi Mounts

I received the bat-wing handles from McMaster-Carr today. Part number
6848K36 works very well, and I will have images up shortly showing what it
is and how it works out. Briefly, it has threads that match the AP-supplied
M6x1 20mm cap screw supplied by AP for the base of the AP 600 mounts. The
bat-wind handle is 40mm in length. A spring causes the handle and the M6x1
screw to engage each other, so that if you turn the handle, you are turning
the screw. If you lift up on the handle, you can reposition it without
engaging the M6x1 screw.

When in place on my AP 600 GTO mount, one-quarter turn is sufficient to
release tension and adjust the mount in azimuth, so I may not even have to
dis-engage. However, you NEED the spring-loaded release mechanism to attach
the handle to the mount, since you cannot turn 360 degrees, only about 180.

Another positive is that I no longer have to have an Allen wrench handy for
tightening and loosening these. Finally, when I have the tension just
right,
I can move the bat-wing handle flush with the mount base by lifting it and
repositioning it.

A nice solution to the problem.

The other parts are on back order, will let you know if any of those are
useful.

Ron Wodaski

-----Original Message-----
From: Ron Wodaski [mailto:ronw@nwlink.com]
Sent: Thursday, March 23, 2000 2:27 PM
To: ap-gto@eGroups.com
Subject: [ap-gto] Re: FW: (SBIGUSER) Takahashi Mounts


I ordered two each of the following:

6848K36
6848K12
6610K33

The studded version are 20mm long, M6x1; the threaded version I will try,
with am M6x1 post, if the studded versions don't work.

Ron

-----Original Message-----
From: Chris. Spratt [mailto:cspratt@islandnet.com]
Sent: Thursday, March 23, 2000 2:13 PM
To: ap-gto@eGroups.com
Subject: [ap-gto] Re: FW: (SBIGUSER) Takahashi Mounts


What were the catalog #s of each item?

Thanks,

Chris. Spratt



"ron wodaski" <ron-@nwlink.com> wrote:
original article:http://www.egroups.com/group/ap-gto/?start=411
I have ordered three different types of clamping handles, and they
should be
here by the first of next week. I ordered male and female versions of
"Stainless Steel Adjustable Clamping Handle With Ball Knob", as well
as a
quick-release style of handle that looks promising, "Teardrop Plastic
Safety
Adj Clamping Handle".

I will report on my experiences here, with photos on my web site.

Ron Wodaski

-----Original Message-----
From: Ron Wodaski [mailto:ronw@nwlink.com]
Sent: Thursday, March 23, 2000 9:56 AM
To: ap-gto@eGroups.com
Subject: [ap-gto] Re: FW: (SBIGUSER) Takahashi Mounts


The one's on page 1868 are stainless steel, and very nice at around
$30-40
each, but no M6 studs; smallest is M8. Page 1870 has a die-cast zinc
model
available in a much wider selection of sizes, including M6 with stud
lengths
ranging from 15-45mm (top right of page). Prices are around $5 each
for
these.

To find these clamps, to go the McMaster site (http://www.mcmaster.co
m/) and
search for "Stainless Steel Adjustable Clamping Handle With Ball
Knob".

I'm going to order these and see how well they work.

Ron Wodaski

-----Original Message-----
From: mrrockets@home.com [mailto:mrrockets@home.com]
Sent: Thursday, March 23, 2000 9:31 AM
To: ap-gto@eGroups.com
Subject: [ap-gto] Re: FW: (SBIGUSER) Takahashi Mounts


"stephen e. russell" <sjruss5-@dpc.net> wrote:
handle" for tightening down the ring. The 600 uses a M6 screw so
would have
to get a machine shop to make some up. I could sketch up the design,
but the
parts might be pricey to get made. If anyone has a "off the shelf"
idea for
this let me know.
Stephen
Stephen,
I don't have a 600 (yet! I'm in line...) but you might look at the
McMaster-Carr catalog online at http://www.mcmaster.com and type in
the
search term "knob". You may find something that'll fit the bill. The
'bat handle' (why did I think you were referring to Batman???) knobs
are on page 1868.

Hope this helps.
Jeff



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Jeffrey D. Gortatowsky
 

Hi Ron,

Glad my 'idea' (well supplier anyway) worked out! :) Maybe they should be
'standard' with all 600's?

Clear skies,
Jeff

----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron Wodaski" <ronw@nwlink.com>
To: <ap-gto@eGroups.com>
Sent: Friday, March 24, 2000 3:30 PM
Subject: [ap-gto] Re: FW: (SBIGUSER) Takahashi Mounts


I received the bat-wing handles from McMaster-Carr today. Part number
6848K36 works very well, and I will have images up shortly showing what it
is and how it works out. Briefly, it has threads that match the
AP-supplied
<snip>


Chris Spratt
 

Such a good and functional idea that I wonder why Roland didn't
incorporate this into the 600E's design.

"jeffrey d. gortatowsky" <myrocketcato-@iname.com> wrote:
original article:http://www.egroups.com/group/ap-gto/?start=432
Hi Ron,

Glad my 'idea' (well supplier anyway) worked out! :) Maybe they
should be
'standard' with all 600's?

Clear skies,
Jeff


----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron Wodaski" <ronw@nwlink.com>
To: <ap-gto@eGroups.com>
Sent: Friday, March 24, 2000 3:30 PM
Subject: [ap-gto] Re: FW: (SBIGUSER) Takahashi Mounts


I received the bat-wing handles from McMaster-Carr today. Part
number
6848K36 works very well, and I will have images up shortly showing
what it
is and how it works out. Briefly, it has threads that match the
AP-supplied
<snip>