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AP Portable Pier 10" to 1100 GTO
I recently got a AP 10 x 42 portable pier.
I think I need an adapter plate of some sort between the top of the portable pier and the bottom plate of the AP 1100 to line up the holes for the 5/16"-18 screws. As it is a weekend, I hope AP'ers here know what to get. Thank you Bharath |
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Bill Long
Per their website you need parts M12012-C, and 119FSA.
https://www.astro-physics.com/xxpp
From: main@ap-gto.groups.io <main@ap-gto.groups.io> on behalf of Bharath via groups.io <02-call.scribes@...>
Sent: Saturday, December 31, 2022 7:38 AM To: main@ap-gto.groups.io <main@ap-gto.groups.io> Subject: [ap-gto] AP Portable Pier 10" to 1100 GTO I recently got a AP 10 x 42 portable pier.
I think I need an adapter plate of some sort between the top of the portable pier and the bottom plate of the AP 1100 to line up the holes for the 5/16"-18 screws. As it is a weekend, I hope AP'ers here know what to get. Thank you Bharath |
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Hi Baharath
Happy New Year I found this on the A-P web site in the description for the 10-inch portable piers: Note that I can't find the M12012-C adapter plate on the A-P web site, but I am pretty sure it exists. On the same topic I thought I would pass on some additional recommendations based on my experience with an 8-inch pier and 1100GTO mount. Note that my pier is quite a lot older. I bought it in 1992 before there were any GOTO mounts or CCD cameras. I think that A-P manufactures their piers to tighter tolerances these days, but it is still worth knowing what to look for in order to avoid potential problems later. Once you get the necessary parts you will want to check the fit of the flat surface adapter on the top of the 10-inch pier to make sure that there is no wobble. In your case you will use the M12012-C to find the high spots. The photos below show the process that I used to do this. It is very important that the adapters and mount sit squarely on the top of the pier with no wobble or play. Otherwise, your polar alignment can shift if the mount moves after everything is attached. Step 1: Coat the top surface of the pier with layout dye. Step 2: Use the adapter plate to find the high spots on the top of the pier by placing it on the pier and rotating it back and forth to rub the dye off at the high spots. Note that if you see three or more high spots, or if the adapter is making good contact all the way around the pier you do not need to do any more. In the photo below you see two points of contact. This resulted in a significant wobble when the mount was placed on the pier. Step 3: Use a file to gently scrape the high spots. It is important to work slowly because the file will quickly cut the aluminum. After scraping each high spot, retest the fit with the adapter. Repeat the process until the adapter is making contact at multiple points. Each time you scrape the top of the pier with the file, the contact points will either ger wider, or else you will find a new contact point. When scraping the high spots, you have to be sure to scrape each one. Once you have a flat surface on the top of the pier, the next thing you will need to do is to use high performance lock washers when you attach the adapter to the pier. The mounting holes in the pier are slightly oversized, and they will allow the whole mount and mounting plate assembly to tilt in the pier once all of the counterweights and scopes are attached. This is because the center of mass is not over the center of the pier, but instead, over the north edge. This will have a tendency to pull the south side of the mount up if there is too much clearance in the mounting holes. Using high-performance lock washers to attach the adapter plate to the pier can eliminate this possibility. I recommend using stainless steel NORD-LOCK two-piece wedge lock washers. These are available from McMaster-Carr. Mike |
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DFisch
Mike, thanks for giving us the tips and tricks for a flat top of pier. I use the Nord lock washers but the layout dye trick certainly will come in handy. Happy New Year to a great group of hobbiests, serious detectives and problem solvers and teachers of this wonderful science of astronomical observing. May 2023 bring you great joy, peace and satisfaction. Tom On Sun, Jan 1, 2023 at 11:30 M Hambrick <mhambrick563@...> wrote:
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TJF MOBILE |
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Wow Mike, that is certainly useful information.
The mounting holes are certainly larger than the 5/16" - 18 threaded knobs that I got to attach any adapter plate to the top of the pier. Just to clarify - is the stainless steel wedge lock washer sandwiched between the head of the head of the 5/16" - 18 screw and pier? So from the outside in, it would be the head of the 5/16" - 18 screw, then lock washer, pier and then the adapter plate on the inside of the pier? I wonder whether you have a picture of how this would look like? BTW, I could not find the M12012-C adapter plate to go on top of the 10" AP Portable pier. I think the part - Flat surface adapter with flat pier plate - for 1100 and 900 mounts to use 10" ATS piers (119FSA-10ATS) might be what is required. Will find out tomorrow. Do you folks have any tips and tricks to level the AP Portable pier other than various thickness aluminum plates that I currently use, works but cannot be fine tuned. |
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Hi Baharath
Here is what the assembly will look like. As for the adapter plate, I am not sure why it does not have a listing on their website. I think you will have to call or email Astro-Physics about it. I forgot to mention in the scraping procedure that after filing the high spots you have to re-coat the top of the pier with layout dye before checking again for the high spots. Mike |
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As for leveling the pier if you are going to be setting it up in the same spot every time you will at a minimum want to set the legs on pave stones. You want the pavestones to be sitting on a base of packed sand, and you can use the depth of sand to level the legs.
I started out with pave stones and then later on buried some 2 feet long treated wood 4 X 4 posts in the ground where the legs sit. Again, you can use sand to level the legs. It is a very stable base. Eventually, I replaced the wood posts with concrete piers 2-1/2 feet long by 8-inch diameter. The concrete is a little trickier to level. You have to use some kind of form like sonotube and make sure that the tops of the forms are level across three legs. Here is a picture of my current pier stand. It is not perfectly level, but it's pretty close. If I set the pier legs in the same place every time the polar alignment will always be pretty close and just need to be tweaked a little bit in azimuth. I read somewhere that it is a good idea to ground the pier. Under that green circular cover near the center of the legs is where I sank a 10-foot grounding rod in the ground. There is a ground strap under the cover that I attach to the base of the pier. Mike |
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