Using the GTO keypad with the Mach2


Terri Zittritsch
 

HI Charles, can I ask what you did here?  Did you update all of your focus motors to Pegasus , or is the Pegasus controller compatible with most stepper motors so you basically just sold your controllers?   Right now I have a moonlight motor and controller pair, then I have two feather touch focus motors and two separate controllers (focus boss II).  


Terri

On Sep 21, 2019, at 2:15 PM, cthomp97 cthomp97@... [ap-gto] <ap-gto@...> wrote:


Yes it is a little high but I recouped all the cost and even made some money back by selling all my Moonlite focus motor controllers. 





Thanks,
Charles

Sent from mobile device.

-------- Original message --------
From: "Terri Zittritsch theresamarie11@... [ap-gto]" <ap-gto@...> 
Date: 9/21/19 11:33 AM (GMT-06:00)
To: "chris1011@... [ap-gto]" <ap-gto@...> 
Subject: Re: [ap-gto] Using the GTO keypad with the Mach2

 

Hi Charles, I’ve looked at these before, and they look very slick, but because I already have several focus and dew controllers, and the high price I opted just to make a power distribution center and buy a US3  hub, which are dirt cheap.. 


But if just starting out, with none of the other pieces in your kit,  these look like great combo setups and may even be cost effective for someone in this situation.


Terri

On Sep 21, 2019, at 11:28 AM, cthomp97 cthomp97@... [ap-gto] <ap-gto@...> wrote:


I don't know if it has been mentioned already but I use the Pegasus Astro V2 Ultimate Power box. It's an all in one USB 3 hub, power distribution and focus motor controller. The software works very well also. Oh and it has 3 Drew heater outputs and some other stuff as well. Just make sure you get the V2 not the V1. 





Thanks,
Charles

Sent from mobile device.

-------- Original message --------
From: "pnagy@... [ap-gto]" <ap-gto@...> 
Date: 9/20/19 4:55 PM (GMT-06:00)
Subject: Re: [ap-gto] Using the GTO keypad with the Mach2

 

Yes, I am the same Peter from TEC forum. Thanks for the kind words.

I am somewhat a little disappointed that Mach2 will no longer accept external cables to be routed through the mount. Mach2 has internal power and USB3 cables (one of each) which means you may need some kind of hub or power distribution at the scope if you want clean cable management.

Personally I feel the advertisement of "through the mount cabling" for Mach2 at A-P web site is a little misleading because the same exact words are said for A-P1100 and A-P1600 mounts which allow external cables to be routed through the mount. I hope some customers won't feel betrayed about Mach2 advertisement about "through the mount cabling". I think it needs to be clarified.

Personally I could not live without through the mount cabling with my former Mach1 and current A-P1100AE because I never even for a second think about cables getting snagged.

My comments no way meant to offend A-P, just my opinion about it. I absolutely love A-P products.

Peter


---In ap-gto@..., wrote :

Wow, impressive Peter.. basically uninterruptible power.    On more than one occasion I’ve tripped over, and/or yanked a power cord out (I am eternally clumsy).   Over the last winter I’ve gone to adding luminescent tape to many of the cords and wires and tripod legs, observing chair legs.    It helps me a lot to keep aware of all the places that are trip or snag hazards, especially the way I’ve wired my mount with USB hub, focus controller and power center mostly mounted on the tripod legs.. I have a lot of wires flying around and they’re mostly black, so the tape placed at 1 foot internals or so helps a lot.   So I’m always keeping track of where the wires are when doing meridian flips or initial slews.   I am in the process or redesigning to accommodate the USB Hub, power distribution and focus controller on the telescope side by side mount which is going to be a lot tidier and avoid most of the issue with cables on my current setup, and I think 100% resolved with the Mach2 internal cabling. 

I think Peter, I see you on the TEC forum as well.. Your astrophotography is gorgeous. 


Terri


On Sep 19, 2019, at 9:05 PM, pnagy@.... [ap-gto] <ap-gto@...> wrote:


I use A/C setup along with my Battery Box as a backup in my backyard by using this cool Power Gate device:


along with:


The Power Gate is a dual function of UPS and battery charger. Under normal circumstance, A/C power supply (14.1VDC) is used to supply power to my astro gears while the Power Gate charges the battery (from power supply via Power Gate). It could not be easier. If there's a power outage, the Power Gate auto-magically switches to Battery power and continues to provide 12VDC power to astro gears without hiccups.

One time, during imaging session in my backyard, I accidentally and unknowingly kicked the power cord out of the outlet outside killing the power to the power supply but no problem because the Power Gate switched to connect the battery to my astro gears and worked all night.

Here is a bad photo of my Battery Box with Power Gate on top of Battery Box:


It looks messy in the photo but it's really simple and clean.

Peter


---In ap-gto@..., wrote :

Thanks guys for the suggestions.  I have essentially the same setup (different source for my meter) on my battery setup.   It includes a shunt so I have current load, voltage, and power readings.

What I don’t have is the same for the AC setup, so I can consider this A-P product for the AC setup.     But I suspect the Mach2 is going to work so well, that I’m going to forget it’s even there and place my focus on the other 999 things that can go wrong with astrophotography.    The whole idea of forgetting about the mount is something I’m really looking forward to.  


Terri



On Sep 19, 2019, at 5:39 PM, 'Woody Schlom' woody@... [ap-gto] <ap-gto@...> wrote:

Bryan,

Yeah, I have one of these too. They’re great – and so simple once you’ve converted all your power cables over to PP.

Woody

From: ap-gto@... <ap-gto@...> 
Sent: Thursday, September 19, 2019 1:49 PM
To: ap-gto@...
Subject: Re: Fwd: [ap-gto] Using the GTO keypad with the Mach2

Terri

I purchased the A-P Online Power meter some time ago

https://astro-physics.com/cabppwm

and have found it very useful.for assessing current draw under varying loads, balancing the scope, evaluating if something is binding somewhere, e.g. cable drag, remaining battery capacity.

Bryan

---In ap-gto@..., wrote :

Rolando, thank you again for all of the great information. You should put some of this in your specification (just a suggestion). I’ll be able to monitor it once I have a chance to connect the Mach2 to a battery since I have a shunt installed to monitor draw. I’ve never noticed the spikiness of the dew controller, but do know that they're pulse width modulated (not clear on frequency) and I currently use a simple 5A “brick” supply with my current setup that supplies everything (mount, heaters, camera cooler, focuser, USB hub, etc) when running at home.. With the Mach2 and supplied 24V power, It’ll be easy to split the supplies by just keeping my current supply for everything but the mount.. In the field I’ll be using a single 12V 55Ah battery. I assume the mount power input is separate from the supply that will feed through up to the DEC axis and the supply that powers the USB hub. I guess if need be, some additional decoupling can be added around the dew controller if it ever caused issues for other 12V components. Maybe this is why I sometimes get mysterious image transmission failures.  

Terri

On Sep 19, 2019, at 12:32 PM, chris1011@... [ap-gto] <ap-gto@... <mailto:ap-gto@...> > wrote:

Mount current draw is the following as measured at the power supply: 

At 24 volts - 0.39 amps normal tracking. At 1800x - 2..06 amps 1 axis, 3.24 amps 2 axis slewing.

At 12 volts - 0.69 amps normal tracking. At 1200x - 2..91 amps 1 axis, 4.43 amps 2 axis slewing.

For 600x slewing, current draw is approximately half of the above

For 900x slewing current draw is approx 75% of above.

The mount comes with a 10 amp 24 volt supply (240 watts) and can be used with 120 and 240 volt input power.

If you run this mount from a different power supply, I recommend that you do not run dew heaters from that same supply since these put heavy spikes in the line that can disrupt the mount control circuit. Batteries tend to be ok since they can deliver the high inrush currents that dew heaters produce without dropping below the 10 - 11 volt min. limit that can cause motor stalls.

Roland Christen

Astro-Physics Inc.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]











Terri Zittritsch
 

Peter, You’re doing what I do now, with multiple USBs, power and the ethernet cable for feathertouch focuser and  have most of your controller ’stuff’ down below.    Luckily with the mount you have, you have cabling through the axis, where my cable is 100% outside.   While I can do the big loop up to the RA axis and tie down with velcro, which works fine in the summer, it turns into something as stiff as 10G 3-wire romex in the Vermont winter.   Still, my bigger issues are just the lack or precision in the mount drivetrain leading to big backlash and various ‘events’ which result in too many unusable frames.   Hoping to resolve this part of the problem. 


Terri 

On Sep 21, 2019, at 3:28 PM, pnagy@... [ap-gto] <ap-gto@...> wrote:

 

Hi Terri,

I have two USB cables for camera and guider, one 12VDC cable for camera and Ethernet cable for motorized focuser routed through the mount. I use adhesive tape to secure USB hub and Focus Boss II to CP4 controller. You can see pictures of my equipment at:


Click on "Current Equipment" thumbnail.

Peter


---In ap-gto@..., wrote :

Hi Peter, So on your current setup do you have multiple USB or power cables routed up through the mount?   I was thinking it’s going to be really clean just moving my hub and power distribution box to the scope side of the mount.    But if you have multiple voltages or multiple isolated supplies then it’s not going to work.   I’ve had so many issues with cables in the winter  once I added the complexity of a cooled camera, auto focus and the filter wheel that I’m really looking forward to a cleaner setup.


Terri


On Sep 20, 2019, at 5:55 PM, pnagy@... [ap-gto] <ap-gto@...> wrote:

 

Yes, I am the same Peter from TEC forum. Thanks for the kind words.

I am somewhat a little disappointed that Mach2 will no longer accept external cables to be routed through the mount. Mach2 has internal power and USB3 cables (one of each) which means you may need some kind of hub or power distribution at the scope if you want clean cable management.

Personally I feel the advertisement of "through the mount cabling" for Mach2 at A-P web site is a little misleading because the same exact words are said for A-P1100 and A-P1600 mounts which allow external cables to be routed through the mount. I hope some customers won't feel betrayed about Mach2 advertisement about "through the mount cabling". I think it needs to be clarified.

Personally I could not live without through the mount cabling with my former Mach1 and current A-P1100AE because I never even for a second think about cables getting snagged.

My comments no way meant to offend A-P, just my opinion about it. I absolutely love A-P products.

Peter


---In ap-gto@..., wrote :

Wow, impressive Peter.. basically uninterruptible power.    On more than one occasion I’ve tripped over, and/or yanked a power cord out (I am eternally clumsy).   Over the last winter I’ve gone to adding luminescent tape to many of the cords and wires and tripod legs, observing chair legs.    It helps me a lot to keep aware of all the places that are trip or snag hazards, especially the way I’ve wired my mount with USB hub, focus controller and power center mostly mounted on the tripod legs.. I have a lot of wires flying around and they’re mostly black, so the tape placed at 1 foot internals or so helps a lot.   So I’m always keeping track of where the wires are when doing meridian flips or initial slews.   I am in the process or redesigning to accommodate the USB Hub, power distribution and focus controller on the telescope side by side mount which is going to be a lot tidier and avoid most of the issue with cables on my current setup, and I think 100% resolved with the Mach2 internal cabling. 

I think Peter, I see you on the TEC forum as well.. Your astrophotography is gorgeous. 


Terri


On Sep 19, 2019, at 9:05 PM, pnagy@... [ap-gto] <ap-gto@...> wrote:


I use A/C setup along with my Battery Box as a backup in my backyard by using this cool Power Gate device:


along with:


The Power Gate is a dual function of UPS and battery charger. Under normal circumstance, A/C power supply (14.1VDC) is used to supply power to my astro gears while the Power Gate charges the battery (from power supply via Power Gate). It could not be easier. If there's a power outage, the Power Gate auto-magically switches to Battery power and continues to provide 12VDC power to astro gears without hiccups.

One time, during imaging session in my backyard, I accidentally and unknowingly kicked the power cord out of the outlet outside killing the power to the power supply but no problem because the Power Gate switched to connect the battery to my astro gears and worked all night.

Here is a bad photo of my Battery Box with Power Gate on top of Battery Box:


It looks messy in the photo but it's really simple and clean.

Peter


---In ap-gto@..., wrote :

Thanks guys for the suggestions.  I have essentially the same setup (different source for my meter) on my battery setup.   It includes a shunt so I have current load, voltage, and power readings.

What I don’t have is the same for the AC setup, so I can consider this A-P product for the AC setup.     But I suspect the Mach2 is going to work so well, that I’m going to forget it’s even there and place my focus on the other 999 things that can go wrong with astrophotography.    The whole idea of forgetting about the mount is something I’m really looking forward to.  


Terri



On Sep 19, 2019, at 5:39 PM, 'Woody Schlom' woody@... [ap-gto] <ap-gto@...> wrote:

Bryan,

Yeah, I have one of these too. They’re great – and so simple once you’ve converted all your power cables over to PP.

Woody

From: ap-gto@... <ap-gto@...> 
Sent: Thursday, September 19, 2019 1:49 PM
To: ap-gto@...
Subject: Re: Fwd: [ap-gto] Using the GTO keypad with the Mach2

Terri

I purchased the A-P Online Power meter some time ago

https://astro-physics.com/cabppwm

and have found it very useful.for assessing current draw under varying loads, balancing the scope, evaluating if something is binding somewhere, e.g. cable drag, remaining battery capacity.

Bryan

---In ap-gto@...,
Rolando, thank you again for all of the great information. You should put some of this in your specification (just a suggestion). I’ll be able to monitor it once I have a chance to connect the Mach2 to a battery since I have a shunt installed to monitor draw. I’ve never noticed the spikiness of the dew controller, but do know that they're pulse width modulated (not clear on frequency) and I currently use a simple 5A “brick” supply with my current setup that supplies everything (mount, heaters, camera cooler, focuser, USB hub, etc) when running at home.. With the Mach2 and supplied 24V power, It’ll be easy to split the supplies by just keeping my current supply for everything but the mount.. In the field I’ll be using a single 12V 55Ah battery. I assume the mount power input is separate from the supply that will feed through up to the DEC axis and the supply that powers the USB hub. I guess if need be, some additional decoupling can be added around the dew controller if it ever caused issues for other 12V components. Maybe this is why I sometimes get mysterious image transmission failures.  

Terri

On Sep 19, 2019, at 12:32 PM, chris1011@... [ap-gto] <ap-gto@... <mailto:ap-gto@...> > wrote:

Mount current draw is the following as measured at the power supply: 

At 24 volts - 0.39 amps normal tracking. At 1800x - 2..06 amps 1 axis, 3.24 amps 2 axis slewing.

At 12 volts - 0.69 amps normal tracking. At 1200x - 2..91 amps 1 axis, 4.43 amps 2 axis slewing.

For 600x slewing, current draw is approximately half of the above

For 900x slewing current draw is approx 75% of above.

The mount comes with a 10 amp 24 volt supply (240 watts) and can be used with 120 and 240 volt input power.

If you run this mount from a different power supply, I recommend that you do not run dew heaters from that same supply since these put heavy spikes in the line that can disrupt the mount control circuit. Batteries tend to be ok since they can deliver the high inrush currents that dew heaters produce without dropping below the 10 - 11 volt min. limit that can cause motor stalls.

Roland Christen

Astro-Physics Inc.











Terri Zittritsch
 

Dale, That’s a beautiful setup, and sounds very well thought out for setup and tear down.   Kind of what I want to do with the Mach2, with the hub and power distribution on top.   I’ve purchased a nice ADM side by side saddle and am thinking to keep my guide scope on one side and then just swap out my imaging scope.   Unfortunately I have 2 imaging scopes with starlight focusers and one with a moonlight.   So I need to swap out one of the focus controllers but the rest can be pretty standard.  Am looking forward to having no cables dangling from the top.   

One of these days I’ll purchase an AP scope as well, but for now will have to do with what I have.


Terri


On Sep 21, 2019, at 4:31 PM, Dale Ghent daleg@... [ap-gto] <ap-gto@...> wrote:


On my setup, I threw a 14" Losmandy D-plate on top of the rings and use 3M Dual-Loc to attach dew and focuser controller, USB3 hub, and PowerPole hub to it:

https://imgur.com/a/2dMX5Iw (see the bottom 3 pics)

This way I have (now) 2 cables going through my Mach1 (USB3 and 12V). I take my scope with its attachments out of the case as a unitary item, put it in the saddle, tighten the saddle up, and then attach a grand total of 2 cables whose ends are hanging out of the top of the dec axis - the USB3 to the USB3 hub and the 12V to the PowerPole hub. I'm then off to the races without having to worry about snags.

Tear-down is just the opposite - park the scope at Park 3, cut the power, unplug the USB3 and 12V PowerPole, remove the entire thing from the saddle, and drop it (figuratively) into the Pelican case I made for it. Two minutes of work, tops. Great for those summer evenings when it's clear skies, then you notice that a thunderstorm is 10 minutes away from running you over.

On the power source side, I use a battery with PowerPole outlets (detailed in a recent post here) or, if AC is available, a Kendrick DC power supply that also has PowerPole outlets. A small 4-position PowerPole hub is on one of the legs of my Eagle pier, and it takes the line from the power source and splits it into two - one line to a DC-DC convertor that is set to output at 15V to the CP, and the second to another DC-DC convertor that is set for 13.8V and feeds the line that goes up through the mount.

/dale

> On Sep 21, 2019, at 3:28 PM, pnagy@... [ap-gto] <ap-gto@...> wrote:
> 
> Hi Terri,
> 
> I have two USB cables for camera and guider, one 12VDC cable for camera and Ethernet cable for motorized focuser routed through the mount. I use adhesive tape to secure USB hub and Focus Boss II to CP4 controller. You can see pictures of my equipment at:
> 
> https://peternagy.smugmug.com/Telescopes
> 
> Click on "Current Equipment" thumbnail.
> 
> Peter
> 
> 
> ---In ap-gto@..., wrote :
> 
> Hi Peter, So on your current setup do you have multiple USB or power cables routed up through the mount? I was thinking it’s going to be really clean just moving my hub and power distribution box to the scope side of the mount. But if you have multiple voltages or multiple isolated supplies then it’s not going to work. I’ve had so many issues with cables in the winter once I added the complexity of a cooled camera, auto focus and the filter wheel that I’m really looking forward to a cleaner setup.
> 
> 
> Terri
> 
> 
>> On Sep 20, 2019, at 5:55 PM, pnagy@... [ap-gto] <ap-gto@...> wrote:
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Yes, I am the same Peter from TEC forum. Thanks for the kind words..
>> 
>> I am somewhat a little disappointed that Mach2 will no longer accept external cables to be routed through the mount. Mach2 has internal power and USB3 cables (one of each) which means you may need some kind of hub or power distribution at the scope if you want clean cable management.
>> 
>> Personally I feel the advertisement of "through the mount cabling" for Mach2 at A-P web site is a little misleading because the same exact words are said for A-P1100 and A-P1600 mounts which allow external cables to be routed through the mount. I hope some customers won't feel betrayed about Mach2 advertisement about "through the mount cabling". I think it needs to be clarified.
>> 
>> Personally I could not live without through the mount cabling with my former Mach1 and current A-P1100AE because I never even for a second think about cables getting snagged.
>> 
>> My comments no way meant to offend A-P, just my opinion about it. I absolutely love A-P products.
>> 
>> Peter
>> 
>> 
>> ---In ap-gto@..., wrote :
>> 
>> Wow, impressive Peter.. basically uninterruptible power. On more than one occasion I’ve tripped over, and/or yanked a power cord out (I am eternally clumsy). Over the last winter I’ve gone to adding luminescent tape to many of the cords and wires and tripod legs, observing chair legs. It helps me a lot to keep aware of all the places that are trip or snag hazards, especially the way I’ve wired my mount with USB hub, focus controller and power center mostly mounted on the tripod legs.. I have a lot of wires flying around and they’re mostly black, so the tape placed at 1 foot internals or so helps a lot. So I’m always keeping track of where the wires are when doing meridian flips or initial slews. I am in the process or redesigning to accommodate the USB Hub, power distribution and focus controller on the telescope side by side mount which is going to be a lot tidier and avoid most of the issue with cables on my current setup, and I think 100% resolved with the Mach2 internal cabling. 
>> 
>> I think Peter, I see you on the TEC forum as well.. Your astrophotography is gorgeous. 
>> 
>> 
>> Terri
>> 
>> 
>>> On Sep 19, 2019, at 9:05 PM, pnagy@... [ap-gto] <ap-gto@...> wrote:
>>> 
>>> 
>>> I use A/C setup along with my Battery Box as a backup in my backyard by using this cool Power Gate device:
>>> 
>>> https://powerwerx.com/west-mountain-radio-pg40s-super-pwrgate
>>> 
>>> along with:
>>> 
>>> https://powerwerx.com/ss30dv-desktop-dc-power-supply-powerpole
>>> 
>>> The Power Gate is a dual function of UPS and battery charger. Under normal circumstance, A/C power supply (14.1VDC) is used to supply power to my astro gears while the Power Gate charges the battery (from power supply via Power Gate). It could not be easier. If there's a power outage, the Power Gate auto-magically switches to Battery power and continues to provide 12VDC power to astro gears without hiccups.
>>> 
>>> One time, during imaging session in my backyard, I accidentally and unknowingly kicked the power cord out of the outlet outside killing the power to the power supply but no problem because the Power Gate switched to connect the battery to my astro gears and worked all night.
>>> 
>>> Here is a bad photo of my Battery Box with Power Gate on top of Battery Box:
>>> 
>>> https://www.dropbox.com/s/ufgh60lknol617z/img_1046.jpg?dl=0
>>> 
>>> It looks messy in the photo but it's really simple and clean.
>>> 
>>> Peter
>>> 
>>> 
>>> ---In ap-gto@..., wrote :
>>> 
>>> Thanks guys for the suggestions. I have essentially the same setup (different source for my meter) on my battery setup. It includes a shunt so I have current load, voltage, and power readings.
>>> 
>>> What I don’t have is the same for the AC setup, so I can consider this A-P product for the AC setup. But I suspect the Mach2 is going to work so well, that I’m going to forget it’s even there and place my focus on the other 999 things that can go wrong with astrophotography. The whole idea of forgetting about the mount is something I’m really looking forward to.  
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Terri
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>>> On Sep 19, 2019, at 5:39 PM, 'Woody Schlom' woody@.... [ap-gto] <ap-gto@...> wrote:
>>>> 
>>>> Bryan,
>>>> 
>>>> Yeah, I have one of these too. They’re great – and so simple once you’ve converted all your power cables over to PP.
>>>> 
>>>> Woody
>>>> 
>>>> From: ap-gto@... <ap-gto@...> 
>>>> Sent: Thursday, September 19, 2019 1:49 PM
>>>> To: ap-gto@...
>>>> Subject: Re: Fwd: [ap-gto] Using the GTO keypad with the Mach2
>>>> 
>>>> Terri
>>>> 
>>>> I purchased the A-P Online Power meter some time ago
>>>> 
>>>> https://astro-physics.com/cabppwm
>>>> 
>>>> and have found it very useful.for assessing current draw under varying loads, balancing the scope, evaluating if something is binding somewhere, e.g. cable drag, remaining battery capacity.
>>>> 
>>>> Bryan
>>>> 
>>>> ---In ap-gto@..., wrote :
>>>> 
>>>> Rolando, thank you again for all of the great information. You should put some of this in your specification (just a suggestion). I’ll be able to monitor it once I have a chance to connect the Mach2 to a battery since I have a shunt installed to monitor draw. I’ve never noticed the spikiness of the dew controller, but do know that they're pulse width modulated (not clear on frequency) and I currently use a simple 5A “brick” supply with my current setup that supplies everything (mount, heaters, camera cooler, focuser, USB hub, etc) when running at home.. With the Mach2 and supplied 24V power, It’ll be easy to split the supplies by just keeping my current supply for everything but the mount.. In the field I’ll be using a single 12V 55Ah battery. I assume the mount power input is separate from the supply that will feed through up to the DEC axis and the supply that powers the USB hub. I guess if need be, some additional decoupling can be added around the dew controller if it ever caused issues for other 12V components. Maybe this is why I sometimes get mysterious image transmission failures.  
>>>> 
>>>> Terri
>>>> 
>>>> On Sep 19, 2019, at 12:32 PM, chris1011@... ap-gto@... <mailto:ap-gto@...> > wrote:
>>>> 
>>>> Mount current draw is the following as measured at the power supply: 
>>>> 
>>>> At 24 volts - 0.39 amps normal tracking. At 1800x - 2..06 amps 1 axis, 3.24 amps 2 axis slewing.
>>>> 
>>>> At 12 volts - 0.69 amps normal tracking. At 1200x - 2..91 amps 1 axis, 4.43 amps 2 axis slewing.
>>>> 
>>>> For 600x slewing, current draw is approximately half of the above
>>>> 
>>>> For 900x slewing current draw is approx 75% of above.
>>>> 
>>>> The mount comes with a 10 amp 24 volt supply (240 watts) and can be used with 120 and 240 volt input power.
>>>> 
>>>> If you run this mount from a different power supply, I recommend that you do not run dew heaters from that same supply since these put heavy spikes in the line that can disrupt the mount control circuit. Batteries tend to be ok since they can deliver the high inrush currents that dew heaters produce without dropping below the 10 - 11 volt min. limit that can cause motor stalls.
>>>> 
>>>> Roland Christen
>>>> 
>>>> Astro-Physics Inc.
>>>> 
>>>> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>> 
>> 
> 
> 
> 
> 



Dale Ghent
 

On my setup, I threw a 14" Losmandy D-plate on top of the rings and use 3M Dual-Loc to attach dew and focuser controller, USB3 hub, and PowerPole hub to it:

https://imgur.com/a/2dMX5Iw (see the bottom 3 pics)

This way I have (now) 2 cables going through my Mach1 (USB3 and 12V). I take my scope with its attachments out of the case as a unitary item, put it in the saddle, tighten the saddle up, and then attach a grand total of 2 cables whose ends are hanging out of the top of the dec axis - the USB3 to the USB3 hub and the 12V to the PowerPole hub. I'm then off to the races without having to worry about snags.

Tear-down is just the opposite - park the scope at Park 3, cut the power, unplug the USB3 and 12V PowerPole, remove the entire thing from the saddle, and drop it (figuratively) into the Pelican case I made for it. Two minutes of work, tops. Great for those summer evenings when it's clear skies, then you notice that a thunderstorm is 10 minutes away from running you over.

On the power source side, I use a battery with PowerPole outlets (detailed in a recent post here) or, if AC is available, a Kendrick DC power supply that also has PowerPole outlets. A small 4-position PowerPole hub is on one of the legs of my Eagle pier, and it takes the line from the power source and splits it into two - one line to a DC-DC convertor that is set to output at 15V to the CP, and the second to another DC-DC convertor that is set for 13.8V and feeds the line that goes up through the mount.

/dale

On Sep 21, 2019, at 3:28 PM, pnagy@... [ap-gto] <ap-gto@...> wrote:

Hi Terri,

I have two USB cables for camera and guider, one 12VDC cable for camera and Ethernet cable for motorized focuser routed through the mount. I use adhesive tape to secure USB hub and Focus Boss II to CP4 controller. You can see pictures of my equipment at:

https://peternagy.smugmug.com/Telescopes

Click on "Current Equipment" thumbnail.

Peter


---In ap-gto@..., <theresamarie11@...> wrote :

Hi Peter, So on your current setup do you have multiple USB or power cables routed up through the mount? I was thinking it’s going to be really clean just moving my hub and power distribution box to the scope side of the mount. But if you have multiple voltages or multiple isolated supplies then it’s not going to work. I’ve had so many issues with cables in the winter once I added the complexity of a cooled camera, auto focus and the filter wheel that I’m really looking forward to a cleaner setup.


Terri


On Sep 20, 2019, at 5:55 PM, pnagy@... [ap-gto] <ap-gto@...> wrote:



Yes, I am the same Peter from TEC forum. Thanks for the kind words.

I am somewhat a little disappointed that Mach2 will no longer accept external cables to be routed through the mount. Mach2 has internal power and USB3 cables (one of each) which means you may need some kind of hub or power distribution at the scope if you want clean cable management.

Personally I feel the advertisement of "through the mount cabling" for Mach2 at A-P web site is a little misleading because the same exact words are said for A-P1100 and A-P1600 mounts which allow external cables to be routed through the mount. I hope some customers won't feel betrayed about Mach2 advertisement about "through the mount cabling". I think it needs to be clarified.

Personally I could not live without through the mount cabling with my former Mach1 and current A-P1100AE because I never even for a second think about cables getting snagged.

My comments no way meant to offend A-P, just my opinion about it. I absolutely love A-P products.

Peter


---In ap-gto@..., <theresamarie11@...> wrote :

Wow, impressive Peter.. basically uninterruptible power. On more than one occasion I’ve tripped over, and/or yanked a power cord out (I am eternally clumsy). Over the last winter I’ve gone to adding luminescent tape to many of the cords and wires and tripod legs, observing chair legs. It helps me a lot to keep aware of all the places that are trip or snag hazards, especially the way I’ve wired my mount with USB hub, focus controller and power center mostly mounted on the tripod legs.. I have a lot of wires flying around and they’re mostly black, so the tape placed at 1 foot internals or so helps a lot. So I’m always keeping track of where the wires are when doing meridian flips or initial slews. I am in the process or redesigning to accommodate the USB Hub, power distribution and focus controller on the telescope side by side mount which is going to be a lot tidier and avoid most of the issue with cables on my current setup, and I think 100% resolved with the Mach2 internal cabling.

I think Peter, I see you on the TEC forum as well.. Your astrophotography is gorgeous.


Terri


On Sep 19, 2019, at 9:05 PM, pnagy@... [ap-gto] <ap-gto@...> wrote:


I use A/C setup along with my Battery Box as a backup in my backyard by using this cool Power Gate device:

https://powerwerx.com/west-mountain-radio-pg40s-super-pwrgate

along with:

https://powerwerx.com/ss30dv-desktop-dc-power-supply-powerpole

The Power Gate is a dual function of UPS and battery charger. Under normal circumstance, A/C power supply (14.1VDC) is used to supply power to my astro gears while the Power Gate charges the battery (from power supply via Power Gate). It could not be easier. If there's a power outage, the Power Gate auto-magically switches to Battery power and continues to provide 12VDC power to astro gears without hiccups.

One time, during imaging session in my backyard, I accidentally and unknowingly kicked the power cord out of the outlet outside killing the power to the power supply but no problem because the Power Gate switched to connect the battery to my astro gears and worked all night.

Here is a bad photo of my Battery Box with Power Gate on top of Battery Box:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/ufgh60lknol617z/img_1046.jpg?dl=0

It looks messy in the photo but it's really simple and clean.

Peter


---In ap-gto@..., <theresamarie11@...> wrote :

Thanks guys for the suggestions. I have essentially the same setup (different source for my meter) on my battery setup. It includes a shunt so I have current load, voltage, and power readings.

What I don’t have is the same for the AC setup, so I can consider this A-P product for the AC setup. But I suspect the Mach2 is going to work so well, that I’m going to forget it’s even there and place my focus on the other 999 things that can go wrong with astrophotography. The whole idea of forgetting about the mount is something I’m really looking forward to.


Terri



On Sep 19, 2019, at 5:39 PM, 'Woody Schlom' woody@... [ap-gto] <ap-gto@...> wrote:

Bryan,

Yeah, I have one of these too. They’re great – and so simple once you’ve converted all your power cables over to PP.

Woody

From: ap-gto@... <ap-gto@...>
Sent: Thursday, September 19, 2019 1:49 PM
To: ap-gto@...
Subject: Re: Fwd: [ap-gto] Using the GTO keypad with the Mach2

Terri

I purchased the A-P Online Power meter some time ago

https://astro-physics.com/cabppwm

and have found it very useful.for assessing current draw under varying loads, balancing the scope, evaluating if something is binding somewhere, e.g. cable drag, remaining battery capacity.

Bryan

---In ap-gto@..., <theresamarie11@...> wrote :

Rolando, thank you again for all of the great information. You should put some of this in your specification (just a suggestion). I’ll be able to monitor it once I have a chance to connect the Mach2 to a battery since I have a shunt installed to monitor draw. I’ve never noticed the spikiness of the dew controller, but do know that they're pulse width modulated (not clear on frequency) and I currently use a simple 5A “brick” supply with my current setup that supplies everything (mount, heaters, camera cooler, focuser, USB hub, etc) when running at home.. With the Mach2 and supplied 24V power, It’ll be easy to split the supplies by just keeping my current supply for everything but the mount.. In the field I’ll be using a single 12V 55Ah battery. I assume the mount power input is separate from the supply that will feed through up to the DEC axis and the supply that powers the USB hub. I guess if need be, some additional decoupling can be added around the dew controller if it ever caused issues for other 12V components. Maybe this is why I sometimes get mysterious image transmission failures.

Terri

On Sep 19, 2019, at 12:32 PM, chris1011@... <mailto:chris1011@...> [ap-gto] <ap-gto@... <mailto:ap-gto@...> > wrote:

Mount current draw is the following as measured at the power supply:

At 24 volts - 0.39 amps normal tracking. At 1800x - 2..06 amps 1 axis, 3.24 amps 2 axis slewing.

At 12 volts - 0.69 amps normal tracking. At 1200x - 2..91 amps 1 axis, 4.43 amps 2 axis slewing.

For 600x slewing, current draw is approximately half of the above

For 900x slewing current draw is approx 75% of above.

The mount comes with a 10 amp 24 volt supply (240 watts) and can be used with 120 and 240 volt input power.

If you run this mount from a different power supply, I recommend that you do not run dew heaters from that same supply since these put heavy spikes in the line that can disrupt the mount control circuit. Batteries tend to be ok since they can deliver the high inrush currents that dew heaters produce without dropping below the 10 - 11 volt min. limit that can cause motor stalls.

Roland Christen

Astro-Physics Inc.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




topboxman
 

Hi Terri,

I have two USB cables for camera and guider, one 12VDC cable for camera and Ethernet cable for motorized focuser routed through the mount. I use adhesive tape to secure USB hub and Focus Boss II to CP4 controller. You can see pictures of my equipment at:


Click on "Current Equipment" thumbnail.

Peter


---In ap-gto@..., <theresamarie11@...> wrote :

Hi Peter, So on your current setup do you have multiple USB or power cables routed up through the mount?   I was thinking it’s going to be really clean just moving my hub and power distribution box to the scope side of the mount.    But if you have multiple voltages or multiple isolated supplies then it’s not going to work.   I’ve had so many issues with cables in the winter  once I added the complexity of a cooled camera, auto focus and the filter wheel that I’m really looking forward to a cleaner setup.


Terri


On Sep 20, 2019, at 5:55 PM, pnagy@... [ap-gto] <ap-gto@...> wrote:

 

Yes, I am the same Peter from TEC forum. Thanks for the kind words.

I am somewhat a little disappointed that Mach2 will no longer accept external cables to be routed through the mount. Mach2 has internal power and USB3 cables (one of each) which means you may need some kind of hub or power distribution at the scope if you want clean cable management.

Personally I feel the advertisement of "through the mount cabling" for Mach2 at A-P web site is a little misleading because the same exact words are said for A-P1100 and A-P1600 mounts which allow external cables to be routed through the mount. I hope some customers won't feel betrayed about Mach2 advertisement about "through the mount cabling". I think it needs to be clarified.

Personally I could not live without through the mount cabling with my former Mach1 and current A-P1100AE because I never even for a second think about cables getting snagged.

My comments no way meant to offend A-P, just my opinion about it. I absolutely love A-P products.

Peter


---In ap-gto@..., <theresamarie11@...> wrote :

Wow, impressive Peter.. basically uninterruptible power.    On more than one occasion I’ve tripped over, and/or yanked a power cord out (I am eternally clumsy).   Over the last winter I’ve gone to adding luminescent tape to many of the cords and wires and tripod legs, observing chair legs.    It helps me a lot to keep aware of all the places that are trip or snag hazards, especially the way I’ve wired my mount with USB hub, focus controller and power center mostly mounted on the tripod legs.. I have a lot of wires flying around and they’re mostly black, so the tape placed at 1 foot internals or so helps a lot.   So I’m always keeping track of where the wires are when doing meridian flips or initial slews.   I am in the process or redesigning to accommodate the USB Hub, power distribution and focus controller on the telescope side by side mount which is going to be a lot tidier and avoid most of the issue with cables on my current setup, and I think 100% resolved with the Mach2 internal cabling. 

I think Peter, I see you on the TEC forum as well.. Your astrophotography is gorgeous. 


Terri


On Sep 19, 2019, at 9:05 PM, pnagy@... [ap-gto] <ap-gto@...> wrote:


I use A/C setup along with my Battery Box as a backup in my backyard by using this cool Power Gate device:


along with:


The Power Gate is a dual function of UPS and battery charger. Under normal circumstance, A/C power supply (14.1VDC) is used to supply power to my astro gears while the Power Gate charges the battery (from power supply via Power Gate). It could not be easier. If there's a power outage, the Power Gate auto-magically switches to Battery power and continues to provide 12VDC power to astro gears without hiccups.

One time, during imaging session in my backyard, I accidentally and unknowingly kicked the power cord out of the outlet outside killing the power to the power supply but no problem because the Power Gate switched to connect the battery to my astro gears and worked all night.

Here is a bad photo of my Battery Box with Power Gate on top of Battery Box:


It looks messy in the photo but it's really simple and clean.

Peter


---In ap-gto@..., <theresamarie11@...> wrote :

Thanks guys for the suggestions.  I have essentially the same setup (different source for my meter) on my battery setup.   It includes a shunt so I have current load, voltage, and power readings.

What I don’t have is the same for the AC setup, so I can consider this A-P product for the AC setup.     But I suspect the Mach2 is going to work so well, that I’m going to forget it’s even there and place my focus on the other 999 things that can go wrong with astrophotography.    The whole idea of forgetting about the mount is something I’m really looking forward to.  


Terri



On Sep 19, 2019, at 5:39 PM, 'Woody Schlom' woody@... [ap-gto] <ap-gto@...> wrote:

Bryan,

Yeah, I have one of these too. They’re great – and so simple once you’ve converted all your power cables over to PP.

Woody

From: ap-gto@... <ap-gto@...> 
Sent: Thursday, September 19, 2019 1:49 PM
To: ap-gto@...
Subject: Re: Fwd: [ap-gto] Using the GTO keypad with the Mach2

Terri

I purchased the A-P Online Power meter some time ago

https://astro-physics.com/cabppwm

and have found it very useful.for assessing current draw under varying loads, balancing the scope, evaluating if something is binding somewhere, e.g. cable drag, remaining battery capacity.

Bryan

---In ap-gto@..., <theresamarie11@...> wrote :

Rolando, thank you again for all of the great information. You should put some of this in your specification (just a suggestion). I’ll be able to monitor it once I have a chance to connect the Mach2 to a battery since I have a shunt installed to monitor draw. I’ve never noticed the spikiness of the dew controller, but do know that they're pulse width modulated (not clear on frequency) and I currently use a simple 5A “brick” supply with my current setup that supplies everything (mount, heaters, camera cooler, focuser, USB hub, etc) when running at home.. With the Mach2 and supplied 24V power, It’ll be easy to split the supplies by just keeping my current supply for everything but the mount.. In the field I’ll be using a single 12V 55Ah battery. I assume the mount power input is separate from the supply that will feed through up to the DEC axis and the supply that powers the USB hub. I guess if need be, some additional decoupling can be added around the dew controller if it ever caused issues for other 12V components. Maybe this is why I sometimes get mysterious image transmission failures.  

Terri

On Sep 19, 2019, at 12:32 PM, chris1011@... <mailto:chris1011@...> [ap-gto] <ap-gto@... <mailto:ap-gto@...> > wrote:

Mount current draw is the following as measured at the power supply: 

At 24 volts - 0.39 amps normal tracking. At 1800x - 2..06 amps 1 axis, 3.24 amps 2 axis slewing.

At 12 volts - 0.69 amps normal tracking. At 1200x - 2..91 amps 1 axis, 4.43 amps 2 axis slewing.

For 600x slewing, current draw is approximately half of the above

For 900x slewing current draw is approx 75% of above.

The mount comes with a 10 amp 24 volt supply (240 watts) and can be used with 120 and 240 volt input power.

If you run this mount from a different power supply, I recommend that you do not run dew heaters from that same supply since these put heavy spikes in the line that can disrupt the mount control circuit. Batteries tend to be ok since they can deliver the high inrush currents that dew heaters produce without dropping below the 10 - 11 volt min. limit that can cause motor stalls.

Roland Christen

Astro-Physics Inc.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]







Charles Thompson
 

Yes it is a little high but I recouped all the cost and even made some money back by selling all my Moonlite focus motor controllers. 





Thanks,
Charles

Sent from mobile device.

-------- Original message --------
From: "Terri Zittritsch theresamarie11@... [ap-gto]" <ap-gto@...>
Date: 9/21/19 11:33 AM (GMT-06:00)
To: "chris1011@... [ap-gto]" <ap-gto@...>
Subject: Re: [ap-gto] Using the GTO keypad with the Mach2

 

Hi Charles, I’ve looked at these before, and they look very slick, but because I already have several focus and dew controllers, and the high price I opted just to make a power distribution center and buy a US3  hub, which are dirt cheap.. 


But if just starting out, with none of the other pieces in your kit,  these look like great combo setups and may even be cost effective for someone in this situation.


Terri

On Sep 21, 2019, at 11:28 AM, cthomp97 cthomp97@... [ap-gto] <ap-gto@...> wrote:


I don't know if it has been mentioned already but I use the Pegasus Astro V2 Ultimate Power box. It's an all in one USB 3 hub, power distribution and focus motor controller. The software works very well also. Oh and it has 3 Drew heater outputs and some other stuff as well. Just make sure you get the V2 not the V1. 





Thanks,
Charles

Sent from mobile device.

-------- Original message --------
From: "pnagy@... [ap-gto]" <ap-gto@...> 
Date: 9/20/19 4:55 PM (GMT-06:00)
Subject: Re: [ap-gto] Using the GTO keypad with the Mach2

 

Yes, I am the same Peter from TEC forum. Thanks for the kind words.

I am somewhat a little disappointed that Mach2 will no longer accept external cables to be routed through the mount. Mach2 has internal power and USB3 cables (one of each) which means you may need some kind of hub or power distribution at the scope if you want clean cable management.

Personally I feel the advertisement of "through the mount cabling" for Mach2 at A-P web site is a little misleading because the same exact words are said for A-P1100 and A-P1600 mounts which allow external cables to be routed through the mount. I hope some customers won't feel betrayed about Mach2 advertisement about "through the mount cabling". I think it needs to be clarified.

Personally I could not live without through the mount cabling with my former Mach1 and current A-P1100AE because I never even for a second think about cables getting snagged.

My comments no way meant to offend A-P, just my opinion about it. I absolutely love A-P products.

Peter


---In ap-gto@..., <theresamarie11@...> wrote :

Wow, impressive Peter.. basically uninterruptible power.    On more than one occasion I’ve tripped over, and/or yanked a power cord out (I am eternally clumsy).   Over the last winter I’ve gone to adding luminescent tape to many of the cords and wires and tripod legs, observing chair legs.    It helps me a lot to keep aware of all the places that are trip or snag hazards, especially the way I’ve wired my mount with USB hub, focus controller and power center mostly mounted on the tripod legs.. I have a lot of wires flying around and they’re mostly black, so the tape placed at 1 foot internals or so helps a lot.   So I’m always keeping track of where the wires are when doing meridian flips or initial slews.   I am in the process or redesigning to accommodate the USB Hub, power distribution and focus controller on the telescope side by side mount which is going to be a lot tidier and avoid most of the issue with cables on my current setup, and I think 100% resolved with the Mach2 internal cabling. 

I think Peter, I see you on the TEC forum as well.. Your astrophotography is gorgeous. 


Terri


On Sep 19, 2019, at 9:05 PM, pnagy@.... [ap-gto] <ap-gto@...> wrote:


I use A/C setup along with my Battery Box as a backup in my backyard by using this cool Power Gate device:


along with:


The Power Gate is a dual function of UPS and battery charger. Under normal circumstance, A/C power supply (14.1VDC) is used to supply power to my astro gears while the Power Gate charges the battery (from power supply via Power Gate). It could not be easier. If there's a power outage, the Power Gate auto-magically switches to Battery power and continues to provide 12VDC power to astro gears without hiccups.

One time, during imaging session in my backyard, I accidentally and unknowingly kicked the power cord out of the outlet outside killing the power to the power supply but no problem because the Power Gate switched to connect the battery to my astro gears and worked all night.

Here is a bad photo of my Battery Box with Power Gate on top of Battery Box:


It looks messy in the photo but it's really simple and clean.

Peter


---In ap-gto@..., <theresamarie11@...> wrote :

Thanks guys for the suggestions.  I have essentially the same setup (different source for my meter) on my battery setup.   It includes a shunt so I have current load, voltage, and power readings.

What I don’t have is the same for the AC setup, so I can consider this A-P product for the AC setup.     But I suspect the Mach2 is going to work so well, that I’m going to forget it’s even there and place my focus on the other 999 things that can go wrong with astrophotography.    The whole idea of forgetting about the mount is something I’m really looking forward to.  


Terri



On Sep 19, 2019, at 5:39 PM, 'Woody Schlom' woody@... [ap-gto] <ap-gto@...> wrote:

Bryan,

Yeah, I have one of these too. They’re great – and so simple once you’ve converted all your power cables over to PP.

Woody

From: ap-gto@... <ap-gto@...> 
Sent: Thursday, September 19, 2019 1:49 PM
To: ap-gto@...
Subject: Re: Fwd: [ap-gto] Using the GTO keypad with the Mach2

Terri

I purchased the A-P Online Power meter some time ago

https://astro-physics.com/cabppwm

and have found it very useful.for assessing current draw under varying loads, balancing the scope, evaluating if something is binding somewhere, e.g. cable drag, remaining battery capacity.

Bryan

---In ap-gto@..., <theresamarie11@...> wrote :

Rolando, thank you again for all of the great information. You should put some of this in your specification (just a suggestion). I’ll be able to monitor it once I have a chance to connect the Mach2 to a battery since I have a shunt installed to monitor draw. I’ve never noticed the spikiness of the dew controller, but do know that they're pulse width modulated (not clear on frequency) and I currently use a simple 5A “brick” supply with my current setup that supplies everything (mount, heaters, camera cooler, focuser, USB hub, etc) when running at home.. With the Mach2 and supplied 24V power, It’ll be easy to split the supplies by just keeping my current supply for everything but the mount.. In the field I’ll be using a single 12V 55Ah battery. I assume the mount power input is separate from the supply that will feed through up to the DEC axis and the supply that powers the USB hub. I guess if need be, some additional decoupling can be added around the dew controller if it ever caused issues for other 12V components. Maybe this is why I sometimes get mysterious image transmission failures.  

Terri

On Sep 19, 2019, at 12:32 PM, chris1011@... <mailto:chris1011@...> [ap-gto] <ap-gto@... <mailto:ap-gto@...> > wrote:

Mount current draw is the following as measured at the power supply: 

At 24 volts - 0.39 amps normal tracking. At 1800x - 2..06 amps 1 axis, 3.24 amps 2 axis slewing.

At 12 volts - 0.69 amps normal tracking. At 1200x - 2..91 amps 1 axis, 4.43 amps 2 axis slewing.

For 600x slewing, current draw is approximately half of the above

For 900x slewing current draw is approx 75% of above.

The mount comes with a 10 amp 24 volt supply (240 watts) and can be used with 120 and 240 volt input power.

If you run this mount from a different power supply, I recommend that you do not run dew heaters from that same supply since these put heavy spikes in the line that can disrupt the mount control circuit. Batteries tend to be ok since they can deliver the high inrush currents that dew heaters produce without dropping below the 10 - 11 volt min. limit that can cause motor stalls.

Roland Christen

Astro-Physics Inc.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]








Terri Zittritsch
 

Hi Charles, I’ve looked at these before, and they look very slick, but because I already have several focus and dew controllers, and the high price I opted just to make a power distribution center and buy a US3  hub, which are dirt cheap.. 

But if just starting out, with none of the other pieces in your kit,  these look like great combo setups and may even be cost effective for someone in this situation.


Terri

On Sep 21, 2019, at 11:28 AM, cthomp97 cthomp97@... [ap-gto] <ap-gto@...> wrote:


I don't know if it has been mentioned already but I use the Pegasus Astro V2 Ultimate Power box. It's an all in one USB 3 hub, power distribution and focus motor controller. The software works very well also. Oh and it has 3 Drew heater outputs and some other stuff as well. Just make sure you get the V2 not the V1. 





Thanks,
Charles

Sent from mobile device.

-------- Original message --------
From: "pnagy@... [ap-gto]" <ap-gto@...> 
Date: 9/20/19 4:55 PM (GMT-06:00)
Subject: Re: [ap-gto] Using the GTO keypad with the Mach2

 

Yes, I am the same Peter from TEC forum. Thanks for the kind words.

I am somewhat a little disappointed that Mach2 will no longer accept external cables to be routed through the mount. Mach2 has internal power and USB3 cables (one of each) which means you may need some kind of hub or power distribution at the scope if you want clean cable management.

Personally I feel the advertisement of "through the mount cabling" for Mach2 at A-P web site is a little misleading because the same exact words are said for A-P1100 and A-P1600 mounts which allow external cables to be routed through the mount. I hope some customers won't feel betrayed about Mach2 advertisement about "through the mount cabling". I think it needs to be clarified.

Personally I could not live without through the mount cabling with my former Mach1 and current A-P1100AE because I never even for a second think about cables getting snagged.

My comments no way meant to offend A-P, just my opinion about it. I absolutely love A-P products.

Peter


---In ap-gto@..., wrote :

Wow, impressive Peter.. basically uninterruptible power.    On more than one occasion I’ve tripped over, and/or yanked a power cord out (I am eternally clumsy).   Over the last winter I’ve gone to adding luminescent tape to many of the cords and wires and tripod legs, observing chair legs.    It helps me a lot to keep aware of all the places that are trip or snag hazards, especially the way I’ve wired my mount with USB hub, focus controller and power center mostly mounted on the tripod legs.. I have a lot of wires flying around and they’re mostly black, so the tape placed at 1 foot internals or so helps a lot.   So I’m always keeping track of where the wires are when doing meridian flips or initial slews.   I am in the process or redesigning to accommodate the USB Hub, power distribution and focus controller on the telescope side by side mount which is going to be a lot tidier and avoid most of the issue with cables on my current setup, and I think 100% resolved with the Mach2 internal cabling. 

I think Peter, I see you on the TEC forum as well.. Your astrophotography is gorgeous. 


Terri


On Sep 19, 2019, at 9:05 PM, pnagy@... [ap-gto] <ap-gto@...> wrote:


I use A/C setup along with my Battery Box as a backup in my backyard by using this cool Power Gate device:


along with:


The Power Gate is a dual function of UPS and battery charger. Under normal circumstance, A/C power supply (14.1VDC) is used to supply power to my astro gears while the Power Gate charges the battery (from power supply via Power Gate). It could not be easier. If there's a power outage, the Power Gate auto-magically switches to Battery power and continues to provide 12VDC power to astro gears without hiccups.

One time, during imaging session in my backyard, I accidentally and unknowingly kicked the power cord out of the outlet outside killing the power to the power supply but no problem because the Power Gate switched to connect the battery to my astro gears and worked all night.

Here is a bad photo of my Battery Box with Power Gate on top of Battery Box:


It looks messy in the photo but it's really simple and clean.

Peter


---In ap-gto@..., wrote :

Thanks guys for the suggestions.  I have essentially the same setup (different source for my meter) on my battery setup.   It includes a shunt so I have current load, voltage, and power readings.

What I don’t have is the same for the AC setup, so I can consider this A-P product for the AC setup.     But I suspect the Mach2 is going to work so well, that I’m going to forget it’s even there and place my focus on the other 999 things that can go wrong with astrophotography.    The whole idea of forgetting about the mount is something I’m really looking forward to.  


Terri



On Sep 19, 2019, at 5:39 PM, 'Woody Schlom' woody@... [ap-gto] <ap-gto@...> wrote:

Bryan,

Yeah, I have one of these too. They’re great – and so simple once you’ve converted all your power cables over to PP.

Woody

From: ap-gto@... <ap-gto@...> 
Sent: Thursday, September 19, 2019 1:49 PM
To: ap-gto@...
Subject: Re: Fwd: [ap-gto] Using the GTO keypad with the Mach2

Terri

I purchased the A-P Online Power meter some time ago

https://astro-physics.com/cabppwm

and have found it very useful.for assessing current draw under varying loads, balancing the scope, evaluating if something is binding somewhere, e.g. cable drag, remaining battery capacity.

Bryan

---In ap-gto@..., wrote :

Rolando, thank you again for all of the great information. You should put some of this in your specification (just a suggestion). I’ll be able to monitor it once I have a chance to connect the Mach2 to a battery since I have a shunt installed to monitor draw. I’ve never noticed the spikiness of the dew controller, but do know that they're pulse width modulated (not clear on frequency) and I currently use a simple 5A “brick” supply with my current setup that supplies everything (mount, heaters, camera cooler, focuser, USB hub, etc) when running at home.. With the Mach2 and supplied 24V power, It’ll be easy to split the supplies by just keeping my current supply for everything but the mount.. In the field I’ll be using a single 12V 55Ah battery. I assume the mount power input is separate from the supply that will feed through up to the DEC axis and the supply that powers the USB hub. I guess if need be, some additional decoupling can be added around the dew controller if it ever caused issues for other 12V components. Maybe this is why I sometimes get mysterious image transmission failures.  

Terri

On Sep 19, 2019, at 12:32 PM, chris1011@... ap-gto@... <mailto:ap-gto@...> > wrote:

Mount current draw is the following as measured at the power supply: 

At 24 volts - 0.39 amps normal tracking. At 1800x - 2..06 amps 1 axis, 3.24 amps 2 axis slewing.

At 12 volts - 0.69 amps normal tracking. At 1200x - 2..91 amps 1 axis, 4.43 amps 2 axis slewing.

For 600x slewing, current draw is approximately half of the above

For 900x slewing current draw is approx 75% of above.

The mount comes with a 10 amp 24 volt supply (240 watts) and can be used with 120 and 240 volt input power.

If you run this mount from a different power supply, I recommend that you do not run dew heaters from that same supply since these put heavy spikes in the line that can disrupt the mount control circuit. Batteries tend to be ok since they can deliver the high inrush currents that dew heaters produce without dropping below the 10 - 11 volt min. limit that can cause motor stalls.

Roland Christen

Astro-Physics Inc.










Charles Thompson
 

I don't know if it has been mentioned already but I use the Pegasus Astro V2 Ultimate Power box. It's an all in one USB 3 hub, power distribution and focus motor controller. The software works very well also. Oh and it has 3 Drew heater outputs and some other stuff as well. Just make sure you get the V2 not the V1. 





Thanks,
Charles

Sent from mobile device.

-------- Original message --------
From: "pnagy@... [ap-gto]" <ap-gto@...>
Date: 9/20/19 4:55 PM (GMT-06:00)
To: ap-gto@...
Subject: Re: [ap-gto] Using the GTO keypad with the Mach2

 

Yes, I am the same Peter from TEC forum. Thanks for the kind words.

I am somewhat a little disappointed that Mach2 will no longer accept external cables to be routed through the mount. Mach2 has internal power and USB3 cables (one of each) which means you may need some kind of hub or power distribution at the scope if you want clean cable management.

Personally I feel the advertisement of "through the mount cabling" for Mach2 at A-P web site is a little misleading because the same exact words are said for A-P1100 and A-P1600 mounts which allow external cables to be routed through the mount. I hope some customers won't feel betrayed about Mach2 advertisement about "through the mount cabling". I think it needs to be clarified.

Personally I could not live without through the mount cabling with my former Mach1 and current A-P1100AE because I never even for a second think about cables getting snagged.

My comments no way meant to offend A-P, just my opinion about it. I absolutely love A-P products.

Peter


---In ap-gto@..., <theresamarie11@...> wrote :

Wow, impressive Peter.. basically uninterruptible power.    On more than one occasion I’ve tripped over, and/or yanked a power cord out (I am eternally clumsy).   Over the last winter I’ve gone to adding luminescent tape to many of the cords and wires and tripod legs, observing chair legs.    It helps me a lot to keep aware of all the places that are trip or snag hazards, especially the way I’ve wired my mount with USB hub, focus controller and power center mostly mounted on the tripod legs.. I have a lot of wires flying around and they’re mostly black, so the tape placed at 1 foot internals or so helps a lot.   So I’m always keeping track of where the wires are when doing meridian flips or initial slews.   I am in the process or redesigning to accommodate the USB Hub, power distribution and focus controller on the telescope side by side mount which is going to be a lot tidier and avoid most of the issue with cables on my current setup, and I think 100% resolved with the Mach2 internal cabling. 

I think Peter, I see you on the TEC forum as well.. Your astrophotography is gorgeous. 


Terri


On Sep 19, 2019, at 9:05 PM, pnagy@... [ap-gto] <ap-gto@...> wrote:


I use A/C setup along with my Battery Box as a backup in my backyard by using this cool Power Gate device:


along with:


The Power Gate is a dual function of UPS and battery charger. Under normal circumstance, A/C power supply (14.1VDC) is used to supply power to my astro gears while the Power Gate charges the battery (from power supply via Power Gate). It could not be easier. If there's a power outage, the Power Gate auto-magically switches to Battery power and continues to provide 12VDC power to astro gears without hiccups.

One time, during imaging session in my backyard, I accidentally and unknowingly kicked the power cord out of the outlet outside killing the power to the power supply but no problem because the Power Gate switched to connect the battery to my astro gears and worked all night.

Here is a bad photo of my Battery Box with Power Gate on top of Battery Box:


It looks messy in the photo but it's really simple and clean.

Peter


---In ap-gto@..., <theresamarie11@...> wrote :

Thanks guys for the suggestions.  I have essentially the same setup (different source for my meter) on my battery setup.   It includes a shunt so I have current load, voltage, and power readings.

What I don’t have is the same for the AC setup, so I can consider this A-P product for the AC setup.     But I suspect the Mach2 is going to work so well, that I’m going to forget it’s even there and place my focus on the other 999 things that can go wrong with astrophotography.    The whole idea of forgetting about the mount is something I’m really looking forward to.  


Terri



On Sep 19, 2019, at 5:39 PM, 'Woody Schlom' woody@... [ap-gto] <ap-gto@...> wrote:

Bryan,

Yeah, I have one of these too. They’re great – and so simple once you’ve converted all your power cables over to PP.

Woody

From: ap-gto@... <ap-gto@...> 
Sent: Thursday, September 19, 2019 1:49 PM
To: ap-gto@...
Subject: Re: Fwd: [ap-gto] Using the GTO keypad with the Mach2

Terri

I purchased the A-P Online Power meter some time ago

https://astro-physics.com/cabppwm

and have found it very useful.for assessing current draw under varying loads, balancing the scope, evaluating if something is binding somewhere, e.g. cable drag, remaining battery capacity.

Bryan

---In ap-gto@..., <theresamarie11@...> wrote :

Rolando, thank you again for all of the great information. You should put some of this in your specification (just a suggestion). I’ll be able to monitor it once I have a chance to connect the Mach2 to a battery since I have a shunt installed to monitor draw. I’ve never noticed the spikiness of the dew controller, but do know that they're pulse width modulated (not clear on frequency) and I currently use a simple 5A “brick” supply with my current setup that supplies everything (mount, heaters, camera cooler, focuser, USB hub, etc) when running at home.. With the Mach2 and supplied 24V power, It’ll be easy to split the supplies by just keeping my current supply for everything but the mount.. In the field I’ll be using a single 12V 55Ah battery. I assume the mount power input is separate from the supply that will feed through up to the DEC axis and the supply that powers the USB hub. I guess if need be, some additional decoupling can be added around the dew controller if it ever caused issues for other 12V components. Maybe this is why I sometimes get mysterious image transmission failures.  

Terri

On Sep 19, 2019, at 12:32 PM, chris1011@... <mailto:chris1011@...> [ap-gto] <ap-gto@... <mailto:ap-gto@...> > wrote:

Mount current draw is the following as measured at the power supply: 

At 24 volts - 0.39 amps normal tracking. At 1800x - 2..06 amps 1 axis, 3.24 amps 2 axis slewing.

At 12 volts - 0.69 amps normal tracking. At 1200x - 2..91 amps 1 axis, 4.43 amps 2 axis slewing.

For 600x slewing, current draw is approximately half of the above

For 900x slewing current draw is approx 75% of above.

The mount comes with a 10 amp 24 volt supply (240 watts) and can be used with 120 and 240 volt input power.

If you run this mount from a different power supply, I recommend that you do not run dew heaters from that same supply since these put heavy spikes in the line that can disrupt the mount control circuit. Batteries tend to be ok since they can deliver the high inrush currents that dew heaters produce without dropping below the 10 - 11 volt min. limit that can cause motor stalls.

Roland Christen

Astro-Physics Inc.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





Terri Zittritsch
 

Hi Peter, So on your current setup do you have multiple USB or power cables routed up through the mount?   I was thinking it’s going to be really clean just moving my hub and power distribution box to the scope side of the mount.    But if you have multiple voltages or multiple isolated supplies then it’s not going to work.   I’ve had so many issues with cables in the winter  once I added the complexity of a cooled camera, auto focus and the filter wheel that I’m really looking forward to a cleaner setup.


Terri


On Sep 20, 2019, at 5:55 PM, pnagy@... [ap-gto] <ap-gto@...> wrote:

 

Yes, I am the same Peter from TEC forum. Thanks for the kind words.

I am somewhat a little disappointed that Mach2 will no longer accept external cables to be routed through the mount. Mach2 has internal power and USB3 cables (one of each) which means you may need some kind of hub or power distribution at the scope if you want clean cable management.

Personally I feel the advertisement of "through the mount cabling" for Mach2 at A-P web site is a little misleading because the same exact words are said for A-P1100 and A-P1600 mounts which allow external cables to be routed through the mount. I hope some customers won't feel betrayed about Mach2 advertisement about "through the mount cabling". I think it needs to be clarified.

Personally I could not live without through the mount cabling with my former Mach1 and current A-P1100AE because I never even for a second think about cables getting snagged.

My comments no way meant to offend A-P, just my opinion about it. I absolutely love A-P products.

Peter


---In ap-gto@..., <theresamarie11@...> wrote :

Wow, impressive Peter.. basically uninterruptible power.    On more than one occasion I’ve tripped over, and/or yanked a power cord out (I am eternally clumsy).   Over the last winter I’ve gone to adding luminescent tape to many of the cords and wires and tripod legs, observing chair legs.    It helps me a lot to keep aware of all the places that are trip or snag hazards, especially the way I’ve wired my mount with USB hub, focus controller and power center mostly mounted on the tripod legs.. I have a lot of wires flying around and they’re mostly black, so the tape placed at 1 foot internals or so helps a lot.   So I’m always keeping track of where the wires are when doing meridian flips or initial slews.   I am in the process or redesigning to accommodate the USB Hub, power distribution and focus controller on the telescope side by side mount which is going to be a lot tidier and avoid most of the issue with cables on my current setup, and I think 100% resolved with the Mach2 internal cabling. 

I think Peter, I see you on the TEC forum as well.. Your astrophotography is gorgeous. 


Terri


On Sep 19, 2019, at 9:05 PM, pnagy@... [ap-gto] <ap-gto@...> wrote:


I use A/C setup along with my Battery Box as a backup in my backyard by using this cool Power Gate device:


along with:


The Power Gate is a dual function of UPS and battery charger. Under normal circumstance, A/C power supply (14.1VDC) is used to supply power to my astro gears while the Power Gate charges the battery (from power supply via Power Gate). It could not be easier. If there's a power outage, the Power Gate auto-magically switches to Battery power and continues to provide 12VDC power to astro gears without hiccups.

One time, during imaging session in my backyard, I accidentally and unknowingly kicked the power cord out of the outlet outside killing the power to the power supply but no problem because the Power Gate switched to connect the battery to my astro gears and worked all night.

Here is a bad photo of my Battery Box with Power Gate on top of Battery Box:


It looks messy in the photo but it's really simple and clean.

Peter


---In ap-gto@..., <theresamarie11@...> wrote :

Thanks guys for the suggestions.  I have essentially the same setup (different source for my meter) on my battery setup.   It includes a shunt so I have current load, voltage, and power readings.

What I don’t have is the same for the AC setup, so I can consider this A-P product for the AC setup.     But I suspect the Mach2 is going to work so well, that I’m going to forget it’s even there and place my focus on the other 999 things that can go wrong with astrophotography.    The whole idea of forgetting about the mount is something I’m really looking forward to.  


Terri



On Sep 19, 2019, at 5:39 PM, 'Woody Schlom' woody@... [ap-gto] <ap-gto@...> wrote:

Bryan,

Yeah, I have one of these too. They’re great – and so simple once you’ve converted all your power cables over to PP.

Woody

From: ap-gto@... <ap-gto@...> 
Sent: Thursday, September 19, 2019 1:49 PM
To: ap-gto@...
Subject: Re: Fwd: [ap-gto] Using the GTO keypad with the Mach2

Terri

I purchased the A-P Online Power meter some time ago

https://astro-physics.com/cabppwm

and have found it very useful.for assessing current draw under varying loads, balancing the scope, evaluating if something is binding somewhere, e.g. cable drag, remaining battery capacity.

Bryan

---In ap-gto@..., wrote :

Rolando, thank you again for all of the great information. You should put some of this in your specification (just a suggestion). I’ll be able to monitor it once I have a chance to connect the Mach2 to a battery since I have a shunt installed to monitor draw. I’ve never noticed the spikiness of the dew controller, but do know that they're pulse width modulated (not clear on frequency) and I currently use a simple 5A “brick” supply with my current setup that supplies everything (mount, heaters, camera cooler, focuser, USB hub, etc) when running at home.. With the Mach2 and supplied 24V power, It’ll be easy to split the supplies by just keeping my current supply for everything but the mount.. In the field I’ll be using a single 12V 55Ah battery. I assume the mount power input is separate from the supply that will feed through up to the DEC axis and the supply that powers the USB hub. I guess if need be, some additional decoupling can be added around the dew controller if it ever caused issues for other 12V components. Maybe this is why I sometimes get mysterious image transmission failures.  

Terri

On Sep 19, 2019, at 12:32 PM, chris1011@... [ap-gto] <ap-gto@... <mailto:ap-gto@...> > wrote:

Mount current draw is the following as measured at the power supply: 

At 24 volts - 0.39 amps normal tracking. At 1800x - 2..06 amps 1 axis, 3.24 amps 2 axis slewing.

At 12 volts - 0.69 amps normal tracking. At 1200x - 2..91 amps 1 axis, 4.43 amps 2 axis slewing.

For 600x slewing, current draw is approximately half of the above

For 900x slewing current draw is approx 75% of above.

The mount comes with a 10 amp 24 volt supply (240 watts) and can be used with 120 and 240 volt input power.

If you run this mount from a different power supply, I recommend that you do not run dew heaters from that same supply since these put heavy spikes in the line that can disrupt the mount control circuit. Batteries tend to be ok since they can deliver the high inrush currents that dew heaters produce without dropping below the 10 - 11 volt min. limit that can cause motor stalls.

Roland Christen

Astro-Physics Inc.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]







Roland Christen
 

"Personally I feel the advertisement of "through the mount cabling" for Mach2 at A-P web site is a little misleadin"

Ok, we'll change it, but please read below:

On the Mach2 we tried to provide enough room for cables, but the space is extremely tight and we wanted to eliminate the external Y cable that the Mach1 had to the two motors. Y cables sometimes get snagged and even cut if they are not carefully routed or when the user sends his scope under the mount for operation past the meridian. Adding encoders to the Dec axis made this even more problematic because of the extra 6 conductor cable that has to be snaked thru both axes up to the Dec encoder and motor connections. The Mach1 bearings end before the RA shaft hole (same as the 1100), so it's an easy route for cables thru the Dec axis right into the RA axis. Encoders add EMI emissions and really need to be routed inside the metal part of the mount in order to minimize RF interference which is strictly regulated in the US and even more so in the EU.

For the Mach2 we extended the shaft past the RA hole to allow for the encoder pickup of the Dec shaft rotation. Extending the shaft makes the mount much more rugged with much faster settling time for the same size gearwheel. The two RA shaft bearings are now much farther apart than in the Mach1. The difference is quite dramatic in increased stability which is a huge plus with bigger, longer setups that people now want to use.

Believe me, we agonized over how to provide customer internal cabling and at one time even letting cables come down the Dec shaft and exiting on the outside of the Dec axis, so customers could run as many cables as they wished. This ended up becoming a mess because the cables would need to exit the Dec shaft via a side hole which of course rotates and depending on the cable thickness ended up causing friction against the shaft plus wear on the cable itself at the edges of the exit hole.

The only solution that worked was to provide a USB3 dedicated cable and a 12 volt DC cable with 20 amp rating so the user could power anything up on the scope. And by using a small hub be able to connect as many appliances as needed including a beer cooler. This is more than you get with our nearest European competitor's encoder mount, where you have no internal wiring for the user. I haven't heard one single complaint about that and nothing but praise from those who have one.

Of course if you absolutely need to run cables, we still make the 1100 mount which allows you to put your arm thru the axis :^))  -   Just kidding ~;^))

Rolando



-----Original Message-----
From: pnagy@... [ap-gto]
To: ap-gto
Sent: Fri, Sep 20, 2019 5:00 pm
Subject: Re: [ap-gto] Using the GTO keypad with the Mach2



Yes, I am the same Peter from TEC forum. Thanks for the kind words.

I am somewhat a little disappointed that Mach2 will no longer accept external cables to be routed through the mount. Mach2 has internal power and USB3 cables (one of each) which means you may need some kind of hub or power distribution at the scope if you want clean cable management.

Personally I feel the advertisement of "through the mount cabling" for Mach2 at A-P web site is a little misleading because the same exact words are said for A-P1100 and A-P1600 mounts which allow external cables to be routed through the mount. I hope some customers won't feel betrayed about Mach2 advertisement about "through the mount cabling". I think it needs to be clarified.

Personally I could not live without through the mount cabling with my former Mach1 and current A-P1100AE because I never even for a second think about cables getting snagged.

My comments no way meant to offend A-P, just my opinion about it. I absolutely love A-P products.

Peter


---In ap-gto@..., wrote :

Wow, impressive Peter.. basically uninterruptible power.    On more than one occasion I’ve tripped over, and/or yanked a power cord out (I am eternally clumsy).   Over the last winter I’ve gone to adding luminescent tape to many of the cords and wires and tripod legs, observing chair legs.    It helps me a lot to keep aware of all the places that are trip or snag hazards, especially the way I’ve wired my mount with USB hub, focus controller and power center mostly mounted on the tripod legs.. I have a lot of wires flying around and they’re mostly black, so the tape placed at 1 foot internals or so helps a lot.   So I’m always keeping track of where the wires are when doing meridian flips or initial slews.   I am in the process or redesigning to accommodate the USB Hub, power distribution and focus controller on the telescope side by side mount which is going to be a lot tidier and avoid most of the issue with cables on my current setup, and I think 100% resolved with the Mach2 internal cabling. 

I think Peter, I see you on the TEC forum as well.. Your astrophotography is gorgeous. 


Terri


On Sep 19, 2019, at 9:05 PM, pnagy@... [ap-gto] <ap-gto@...> wrote:


I use A/C setup along with my Battery Box as a backup in my backyard by using this cool Power Gate device:


along with:


The Power Gate is a dual function of UPS and battery charger. Under normal circumstance, A/C power supply (14.1VDC) is used to supply power to my astro gears while the Power Gate charges the battery (from power supply via Power Gate). It could not be easier. If there's a power outage, the Power Gate auto-magically switches to Battery power and continues to provide 12VDC power to astro gears without hiccups.

One time, during imaging session in my backyard, I accidentally and unknowingly kicked the power cord out of the outlet outside killing the power to the power supply but no problem because the Power Gate switched to connect the battery to my astro gears and worked all night.

Here is a bad photo of my Battery Box with Power Gate on top of Battery Box:


It looks messy in the photo but it's really simple and clean.

Peter


---In ap-gto@..., wrote :

Thanks guys for the suggestions.  I have essentially the same setup (different source for my meter) on my battery setup.   It includes a shunt so I have current load, voltage, and power readings.

What I don’t have is the same for the AC setup, so I can consider this A-P product for the AC setup.     But I suspect the Mach2 is going to work so well, that I’m going to forget it’s even there and place my focus on the other 999 things that can go wrong with astrophotography.    The whole idea of forgetting about the mount is something I’m really looking forward to.  


Terri



On Sep 19, 2019, at 5:39 PM, 'Woody Schlom' woody@... [ap-gto] <ap-gto@...> wrote:

Bryan,

Yeah, I have one of these too. They’re great – and so simple once you’ve converted all your power cables over to PP.

Woody

From: ap-gto@... <ap-gto@...> 
Sent: Thursday, September 19, 2019 1:49 PM
To: ap-gto@...
Subject: Re: Fwd: [ap-gto] Using the GTO keypad with the Mach2

Terri

I purchased the A-P Online Power meter some time ago

https://astro-physics.com/cabppwm

and have found it very useful.for assessing current draw under varying loads, balancing the scope, evaluating if something is binding somewhere, e.g. cable drag, remaining battery capacity.

Bryan

---In ap-gto@..., wrote :

Rolando, thank you again for all of the great information. You should put some of this in your specification (just a suggestion). I’ll be able to monitor it once I have a chance to connect the Mach2 to a battery since I have a shunt installed to monitor draw. I’ve never noticed the spikiness of the dew controller, but do know that they're pulse width modulated (not clear on frequency) and I currently use a simple 5A “brick” supply with my current setup that supplies everything (mount, heaters, camera cooler, focuser, USB hub, etc) when running at home.. With the Mach2 and supplied 24V power, It’ll be easy to split the supplies by just keeping my current supply for everything but the mount.. In the field I’ll be using a single 12V 55Ah battery. I assume the mount power input is separate from the supply that will feed through up to the DEC axis and the supply that powers the USB hub. I guess if need be, some additional decoupling can be added around the dew controller if it ever caused issues for other 12V components. Maybe this is why I sometimes get mysterious image transmission failures.  

Terri

On Sep 19, 2019, at 12:32 PM, chris1011@... [ap-gto] <ap-gto@... <mailto:ap-gto@...> > wrote:

Mount current draw is the following as measured at the power supply: 

At 24 volts - 0.39 amps normal tracking. At 1800x - 2..06 amps 1 axis, 3.24 amps 2 axis slewing.

At 12 volts - 0.69 amps normal tracking. At 1200x - 2..91 amps 1 axis, 4.43 amps 2 axis slewing.

For 600x slewing, current draw is approximately half of the above

For 900x slewing current draw is approx 75% of above.

The mount comes with a 10 amp 24 volt supply (240 watts) and can be used with 120 and 240 volt input power.

If you run this mount from a different power supply, I recommend that you do not run dew heaters from that same supply since these put heavy spikes in the line that can disrupt the mount control circuit. Batteries tend to be ok since they can deliver the high inrush currents that dew heaters produce without dropping below the 10 - 11 volt min. limit that can cause motor stalls.

Roland Christen

Astro-Physics Inc.









topboxman
 

Yes, I am the same Peter from TEC forum. Thanks for the kind words.

I am somewhat a little disappointed that Mach2 will no longer accept external cables to be routed through the mount. Mach2 has internal power and USB3 cables (one of each) which means you may need some kind of hub or power distribution at the scope if you want clean cable management.

Personally I feel the advertisement of "through the mount cabling" for Mach2 at A-P web site is a little misleading because the same exact words are said for A-P1100 and A-P1600 mounts which allow external cables to be routed through the mount. I hope some customers won't feel betrayed about Mach2 advertisement about "through the mount cabling". I think it needs to be clarified.

Personally I could not live without through the mount cabling with my former Mach1 and current A-P1100AE because I never even for a second think about cables getting snagged.

My comments no way meant to offend A-P, just my opinion about it. I absolutely love A-P products.

Peter


---In ap-gto@..., <theresamarie11@...> wrote :

Wow, impressive Peter.. basically uninterruptible power.    On more than one occasion I’ve tripped over, and/or yanked a power cord out (I am eternally clumsy).   Over the last winter I’ve gone to adding luminescent tape to many of the cords and wires and tripod legs, observing chair legs.    It helps me a lot to keep aware of all the places that are trip or snag hazards, especially the way I’ve wired my mount with USB hub, focus controller and power center mostly mounted on the tripod legs.. I have a lot of wires flying around and they’re mostly black, so the tape placed at 1 foot internals or so helps a lot.   So I’m always keeping track of where the wires are when doing meridian flips or initial slews.   I am in the process or redesigning to accommodate the USB Hub, power distribution and focus controller on the telescope side by side mount which is going to be a lot tidier and avoid most of the issue with cables on my current setup, and I think 100% resolved with the Mach2 internal cabling. 

I think Peter, I see you on the TEC forum as well.. Your astrophotography is gorgeous. 


Terri


On Sep 19, 2019, at 9:05 PM, pnagy@... [ap-gto] <ap-gto@...> wrote:


I use A/C setup along with my Battery Box as a backup in my backyard by using this cool Power Gate device:


along with:


The Power Gate is a dual function of UPS and battery charger. Under normal circumstance, A/C power supply (14.1VDC) is used to supply power to my astro gears while the Power Gate charges the battery (from power supply via Power Gate). It could not be easier. If there's a power outage, the Power Gate auto-magically switches to Battery power and continues to provide 12VDC power to astro gears without hiccups.

One time, during imaging session in my backyard, I accidentally and unknowingly kicked the power cord out of the outlet outside killing the power to the power supply but no problem because the Power Gate switched to connect the battery to my astro gears and worked all night.

Here is a bad photo of my Battery Box with Power Gate on top of Battery Box:


It looks messy in the photo but it's really simple and clean.

Peter


---In ap-gto@..., <theresamarie11@...> wrote :

Thanks guys for the suggestions.  I have essentially the same setup (different source for my meter) on my battery setup.   It includes a shunt so I have current load, voltage, and power readings.

What I don’t have is the same for the AC setup, so I can consider this A-P product for the AC setup.     But I suspect the Mach2 is going to work so well, that I’m going to forget it’s even there and place my focus on the other 999 things that can go wrong with astrophotography.    The whole idea of forgetting about the mount is something I’m really looking forward to.  


Terri



On Sep 19, 2019, at 5:39 PM, 'Woody Schlom' woody@... [ap-gto] <ap-gto@...> wrote:

Bryan,

Yeah, I have one of these too. They’re great – and so simple once you’ve converted all your power cables over to PP.

Woody

From: ap-gto@... <ap-gto@...> 
Sent: Thursday, September 19, 2019 1:49 PM
To: ap-gto@...
Subject: Re: Fwd: [ap-gto] Using the GTO keypad with the Mach2

Terri

I purchased the A-P Online Power meter some time ago

https://astro-physics.com/cabppwm

and have found it very useful.for assessing current draw under varying loads, balancing the scope, evaluating if something is binding somewhere, e.g. cable drag, remaining battery capacity.

Bryan

---In ap-gto@..., <theresamarie11@...> wrote :

Rolando, thank you again for all of the great information. You should put some of this in your specification (just a suggestion). I’ll be able to monitor it once I have a chance to connect the Mach2 to a battery since I have a shunt installed to monitor draw. I’ve never noticed the spikiness of the dew controller, but do know that they're pulse width modulated (not clear on frequency) and I currently use a simple 5A “brick” supply with my current setup that supplies everything (mount, heaters, camera cooler, focuser, USB hub, etc) when running at home.. With the Mach2 and supplied 24V power, It’ll be easy to split the supplies by just keeping my current supply for everything but the mount.. In the field I’ll be using a single 12V 55Ah battery. I assume the mount power input is separate from the supply that will feed through up to the DEC axis and the supply that powers the USB hub. I guess if need be, some additional decoupling can be added around the dew controller if it ever caused issues for other 12V components. Maybe this is why I sometimes get mysterious image transmission failures.  

Terri

On Sep 19, 2019, at 12:32 PM, chris1011@... <mailto:chris1011@...> [ap-gto] <ap-gto@... <mailto:ap-gto@...> > wrote:

Mount current draw is the following as measured at the power supply: 

At 24 volts - 0.39 amps normal tracking. At 1800x - 2..06 amps 1 axis, 3.24 amps 2 axis slewing.

At 12 volts - 0.69 amps normal tracking. At 1200x - 2..91 amps 1 axis, 4.43 amps 2 axis slewing.

For 600x slewing, current draw is approximately half of the above

For 900x slewing current draw is approx 75% of above.

The mount comes with a 10 amp 24 volt supply (240 watts) and can be used with 120 and 240 volt input power.

If you run this mount from a different power supply, I recommend that you do not run dew heaters from that same supply since these put heavy spikes in the line that can disrupt the mount control circuit. Batteries tend to be ok since they can deliver the high inrush currents that dew heaters produce without dropping below the 10 - 11 volt min. limit that can cause motor stalls.

Roland Christen

Astro-Physics Inc.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





Terri Zittritsch
 

Wow, impressive Peter.. basically uninterruptible power.    On more than one occasion I’ve tripped over, and/or yanked a power cord out (I am eternally clumsy).   Over the last winter I’ve gone to adding luminescent tape to many of the cords and wires and tripod legs, observing chair legs.    It helps me a lot to keep aware of all the places that are trip or snag hazards, especially the way I’ve wired my mount with USB hub, focus controller and power center mostly mounted on the tripod legs.. I have a lot of wires flying around and they’re mostly black, so the tape placed at 1 foot internals or so helps a lot.   So I’m always keeping track of where the wires are when doing meridian flips or initial slews.   I am in the process or redesigning to accommodate the USB Hub, power distribution and focus controller on the telescope side by side mount which is going to be a lot tidier and avoid most of the issue with cables on my current setup, and I think 100% resolved with the Mach2 internal cabling. 

I think Peter, I see you on the TEC forum as well.. Your astrophotography is gorgeous. 


Terri


On Sep 19, 2019, at 9:05 PM, pnagy@... [ap-gto] <ap-gto@...> wrote:


I use A/C setup along with my Battery Box as a backup in my backyard by using this cool Power Gate device:


along with:


The Power Gate is a dual function of UPS and battery charger. Under normal circumstance, A/C power supply (14.1VDC) is used to supply power to my astro gears while the Power Gate charges the battery (from power supply via Power Gate). It could not be easier. If there's a power outage, the Power Gate auto-magically switches to Battery power and continues to provide 12VDC power to astro gears without hiccups.

One time, during imaging session in my backyard, I accidentally and unknowingly kicked the power cord out of the outlet outside killing the power to the power supply but no problem because the Power Gate switched to connect the battery to my astro gears and worked all night.

Here is a bad photo of my Battery Box with Power Gate on top of Battery Box:


It looks messy in the photo but it's really simple and clean.

Peter


---In ap-gto@..., wrote :

Thanks guys for the suggestions.  I have essentially the same setup (different source for my meter) on my battery setup.   It includes a shunt so I have current load, voltage, and power readings.

What I don’t have is the same for the AC setup, so I can consider this A-P product for the AC setup.     But I suspect the Mach2 is going to work so well, that I’m going to forget it’s even there and place my focus on the other 999 things that can go wrong with astrophotography.    The whole idea of forgetting about the mount is something I’m really looking forward to.  


Terri



On Sep 19, 2019, at 5:39 PM, 'Woody Schlom' woody@... [ap-gto] <ap-gto@...> wrote:

Bryan,

Yeah, I have one of these too. They’re great – and so simple once you’ve converted all your power cables over to PP.

Woody

From: ap-gto@... <ap-gto@...> 
Sent: Thursday, September 19, 2019 1:49 PM
To: ap-gto@...
Subject: Re: Fwd: [ap-gto] Using the GTO keypad with the Mach2

Terri

I purchased the A-P Online Power meter some time ago

https://astro-physics.com/cabppwm

and have found it very useful.for assessing current draw under varying loads, balancing the scope, evaluating if something is binding somewhere, e.g. cable drag, remaining battery capacity.

Bryan

---In ap-gto@..., wrote :

Rolando, thank you again for all of the great information. You should put some of this in your specification (just a suggestion). I’ll be able to monitor it once I have a chance to connect the Mach2 to a battery since I have a shunt installed to monitor draw. I’ve never noticed the spikiness of the dew controller, but do know that they're pulse width modulated (not clear on frequency) and I currently use a simple 5A “brick” supply with my current setup that supplies everything (mount, heaters, camera cooler, focuser, USB hub, etc) when running at home.. With the Mach2 and supplied 24V power, It’ll be easy to split the supplies by just keeping my current supply for everything but the mount.. In the field I’ll be using a single 12V 55Ah battery. I assume the mount power input is separate from the supply that will feed through up to the DEC axis and the supply that powers the USB hub. I guess if need be, some additional decoupling can be added around the dew controller if it ever caused issues for other 12V components. Maybe this is why I sometimes get mysterious image transmission failures.  

Terri

On Sep 19, 2019, at 12:32 PM, chris1011@... [ap-gto] <ap-gto@... <mailto:ap-gto@...> > wrote:

Mount current draw is the following as measured at the power supply: 

At 24 volts - 0.39 amps normal tracking. At 1800x - 2..06 amps 1 axis, 3.24 amps 2 axis slewing.

At 12 volts - 0.69 amps normal tracking. At 1200x - 2..91 amps 1 axis, 4.43 amps 2 axis slewing.

For 600x slewing, current draw is approximately half of the above

For 900x slewing current draw is approx 75% of above.

The mount comes with a 10 amp 24 volt supply (240 watts) and can be used with 120 and 240 volt input power.

If you run this mount from a different power supply, I recommend that you do not run dew heaters from that same supply since these put heavy spikes in the line that can disrupt the mount control circuit. Batteries tend to be ok since they can deliver the high inrush currents that dew heaters produce without dropping below the 10 - 11 volt min. limit that can cause motor stalls.

Roland Christen

Astro-Physics Inc.







topboxman
 

I use A/C setup along with my Battery Box as a backup in my backyard by using this cool Power Gate device:


along with:


The Power Gate is a dual function of UPS and battery charger. Under normal circumstance, A/C power supply (14.1VDC) is used to supply power to my astro gears while the Power Gate charges the battery (from power supply via Power Gate). It could not be easier. If there's a power outage, the Power Gate auto-magically switches to Battery power and continues to provide 12VDC power to astro gears without hiccups.

One time, during imaging session in my backyard, I accidentally and unknowingly kicked the power cord out of the outlet outside killing the power to the power supply but no problem because the Power Gate switched to connect the battery to my astro gears and worked all night.

Here is a bad photo of my Battery Box with Power Gate on top of Battery Box:


It looks messy in the photo but it's really simple and clean.

Peter


---In ap-gto@..., <theresamarie11@...> wrote :

Thanks guys for the suggestions.  I have essentially the same setup (different source for my meter) on my battery setup.   It includes a shunt so I have current load, voltage, and power readings.

What I don’t have is the same for the AC setup, so I can consider this A-P product for the AC setup.     But I suspect the Mach2 is going to work so well, that I’m going to forget it’s even there and place my focus on the other 999 things that can go wrong with astrophotography.    The whole idea of forgetting about the mount is something I’m really looking forward to.  


Terri



On Sep 19, 2019, at 5:39 PM, 'Woody Schlom' woody@... [ap-gto] <ap-gto@...> wrote:

Bryan,

Yeah, I have one of these too. They’re great – and so simple once you’ve converted all your power cables over to PP.

Woody

From: ap-gto@... <ap-gto@...> 
Sent: Thursday, September 19, 2019 1:49 PM
To: ap-gto@...
Subject: Re: Fwd: [ap-gto] Using the GTO keypad with the Mach2

Terri

I purchased the A-P Online Power meter some time ago

https://astro-physics.com/cabppwm

and have found it very useful.for assessing current draw under varying loads, balancing the scope, evaluating if something is binding somewhere, e.g. cable drag, remaining battery capacity.

Bryan

---In ap-gto@..., <theresamarie11@...> wrote :

Rolando, thank you again for all of the great information. You should put some of this in your specification (just a suggestion). I’ll be able to monitor it once I have a chance to connect the Mach2 to a battery since I have a shunt installed to monitor draw. I’ve never noticed the spikiness of the dew controller, but do know that they're pulse width modulated (not clear on frequency) and I currently use a simple 5A “brick” supply with my current setup that supplies everything (mount, heaters, camera cooler, focuser, USB hub, etc) when running at home.. With the Mach2 and supplied 24V power, It’ll be easy to split the supplies by just keeping my current supply for everything but the mount.. In the field I’ll be using a single 12V 55Ah battery. I assume the mount power input is separate from the supply that will feed through up to the DEC axis and the supply that powers the USB hub. I guess if need be, some additional decoupling can be added around the dew controller if it ever caused issues for other 12V components. Maybe this is why I sometimes get mysterious image transmission failures.  

Terri

On Sep 19, 2019, at 12:32 PM, chris1011@... <mailto:chris1011@...> [ap-gto] <ap-gto@... <mailto:ap-gto@...> > wrote:

Mount current draw is the following as measured at the power supply: 

At 24 volts - 0.39 amps normal tracking. At 1800x - 2..06 amps 1 axis, 3.24 amps 2 axis slewing.

At 12 volts - 0.69 amps normal tracking. At 1200x - 2..91 amps 1 axis, 4.43 amps 2 axis slewing.

For 600x slewing, current draw is approximately half of the above

For 900x slewing current draw is approx 75% of above.

The mount comes with a 10 amp 24 volt supply (240 watts) and can be used with 120 and 240 volt input power.

If you run this mount from a different power supply, I recommend that you do not run dew heaters from that same supply since these put heavy spikes in the line that can disrupt the mount control circuit. Batteries tend to be ok since they can deliver the high inrush currents that dew heaters produce without dropping below the 10 - 11 volt min. limit that can cause motor stalls.

Roland Christen

Astro-Physics Inc.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Terri Zittritsch
 

Thanks guys for the suggestions.  I have essentially the same setup (different source for my meter) on my battery setup.   It includes a shunt so I have current load, voltage, and power readings.

What I don’t have is the same for the AC setup, so I can consider this A-P product for the AC setup.     But I suspect the Mach2 is going to work so well, that I’m going to forget it’s even there and place my focus on the other 999 things that can go wrong with astrophotography.    The whole idea of forgetting about the mount is something I’m really looking forward to.  


Terri



On Sep 19, 2019, at 5:39 PM, 'Woody Schlom' woody@... [ap-gto] <ap-gto@...> wrote:

Bryan,

Yeah, I have one of these too. They’re great – and so simple once you’ve converted all your power cables over to PP.

Woody

From: ap-gto@... <ap-gto@...> 
Sent: Thursday, September 19, 2019 1:49 PM
To: ap-gto@...
Subject: Re: Fwd: [ap-gto] Using the GTO keypad with the Mach2

Terri

I purchased the A-P Online Power meter some time ago

https://astro-physics.com/cabppwm

and have found it very useful.for assessing current draw under varying loads, balancing the scope, evaluating if something is binding somewhere, e.g. cable drag, remaining battery capacity.

Bryan

---In ap-gto@..., wrote :

Rolando, thank you again for all of the great information. You should put some of this in your specification (just a suggestion). I’ll be able to monitor it once I have a chance to connect the Mach2 to a battery since I have a shunt installed to monitor draw. I’ve never noticed the spikiness of the dew controller, but do know that they're pulse width modulated (not clear on frequency) and I currently use a simple 5A “brick” supply with my current setup that supplies everything (mount, heaters, camera cooler, focuser, USB hub, etc) when running at home.. With the Mach2 and supplied 24V power, It’ll be easy to split the supplies by just keeping my current supply for everything but the mount.. In the field I’ll be using a single 12V 55Ah battery. I assume the mount power input is separate from the supply that will feed through up to the DEC axis and the supply that powers the USB hub. I guess if need be, some additional decoupling can be added around the dew controller if it ever caused issues for other 12V components. Maybe this is why I sometimes get mysterious image transmission failures.  

Terri

On Sep 19, 2019, at 12:32 PM, chris1011@... [ap-gto] <ap-gto@... <mailto:ap-gto@...> > wrote:

Mount current draw is the following as measured at the power supply: 

At 24 volts - 0.39 amps normal tracking. At 1800x - 2..06 amps 1 axis, 3.24 amps 2 axis slewing.

At 12 volts - 0.69 amps normal tracking. At 1200x - 2..91 amps 1 axis, 4.43 amps 2 axis slewing.

For 600x slewing, current draw is approximately half of the above

For 900x slewing current draw is approx 75% of above.

The mount comes with a 10 amp 24 volt supply (240 watts) and can be used with 120 and 240 volt input power.

If you run this mount from a different power supply, I recommend that you do not run dew heaters from that same supply since these put heavy spikes in the line that can disrupt the mount control circuit. Batteries tend to be ok since they can deliver the high inrush currents that dew heaters produce without dropping below the 10 - 11 volt min. limit that can cause motor stalls.

Roland Christen

Astro-Physics Inc.





topboxman
 

I have the same power meter. Look at pictures of my Battery Box to power several astro devices and it shows power meter attached to the box.


It shows two ways to attach RigRunner to the battery box. First set of pictures show mounting RigRunner outside of battery box and this method is simple. Second set of pictures show mounting RigRunner inside of battery box and this method is more complicated and messier inside the battery box but looks cleaner from outside of battery box.

Peter


---In ap-gto@..., <woody@...> wrote :

Bryan,



Yeah, I have one of these too. They’re great – and so simple once you’ve converted all your power cables over to PP.



Woody



From: ap-gto@... <ap-gto@...>
Sent: Thursday, September 19, 2019 1:49 PM
To: ap-gto@...
Subject: Re: Fwd: [ap-gto] Using the GTO keypad with the Mach2





Terri



I purchased the A-P Online Power meter some time ago

https://astro-physics.com/cabppwm

and have found it very useful.for assessing current draw under varying loads, balancing the scope, evaluating if something is binding somewhere, e.g. cable drag, remaining battery capacity.



Bryan



---In ap-gto@..., <theresamarie11@...> wrote :

Rolando, thank you again for all of the great information. You should put some of this in your specification (just a suggestion). I’ll be able to monitor it once I have a chance to connect the Mach2 to a battery since I have a shunt installed to monitor draw. I’ve never noticed the spikiness of the dew controller, but do know that they're pulse width modulated (not clear on frequency) and I currently use a simple 5A “brick” supply with my current setup that supplies everything (mount, heaters, camera cooler, focuser, USB hub, etc) when running at home. With the Mach2 and supplied 24V power, It’ll be easy to split the supplies by just keeping my current supply for everything but the mount. In the field I’ll be using a single 12V 55Ah battery. I assume the mount power input is separate from the supply that will feed through up to the DEC axis and the supply that powers the USB hub. I guess if need be, some additional decoupling can be added around the dew controller if it ever caused issues for other 12V components. Maybe this is why I sometimes get mysterious image transmission failures.





Terri







On Sep 19, 2019, at 12:32 PM, chris1011@... <mailto:chris1011@...> [ap-gto] <ap-gto@... <mailto:ap-gto@...> > wrote:





Mount current draw is the following as measured at the power supply:

At 24 volts - 0.39 amps normal tracking. At 1800x - 2..06 amps 1 axis, 3.24 amps 2 axis slewing.

At 12 volts - 0.69 amps normal tracking. At 1200x - 2..91 amps 1 axis, 4.43 amps 2 axis slewing.



For 600x slewing, current draw is approximately half of the above

For 900x slewing current draw is approx 75% of above.



The mount comes with a 10 amp 24 volt supply (240 watts) and can be used with 120 and 240 volt input power.

If you run this mount from a different power supply, I recommend that you do not run dew heaters from that same supply since these put heavy spikes in the line that can disrupt the mount control circuit. Batteries tend to be ok since they can deliver the high inrush currents that dew heaters produce without dropping below the 10 - 11 volt min. limit that can cause motor stalls.



Roland Christen

Astro-Physics Inc.











[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Woody Schlom <woody@...>
 

Bryan,



Yeah, I have one of these too. They’re great – and so simple once you’ve converted all your power cables over to PP.



Woody



From: ap-gto@... <ap-gto@...>
Sent: Thursday, September 19, 2019 1:49 PM
To: ap-gto@...
Subject: Re: Fwd: [ap-gto] Using the GTO keypad with the Mach2





Terri



I purchased the A-P Online Power meter some time ago

https://astro-physics.com/cabppwm

and have found it very useful.for assessing current draw under varying loads, balancing the scope, evaluating if something is binding somewhere, e.g. cable drag, remaining battery capacity.



Bryan



---In ap-gto@..., <theresamarie11@...> wrote :

Rolando, thank you again for all of the great information. You should put some of this in your specification (just a suggestion). I’ll be able to monitor it once I have a chance to connect the Mach2 to a battery since I have a shunt installed to monitor draw. I’ve never noticed the spikiness of the dew controller, but do know that they're pulse width modulated (not clear on frequency) and I currently use a simple 5A “brick” supply with my current setup that supplies everything (mount, heaters, camera cooler, focuser, USB hub, etc) when running at home. With the Mach2 and supplied 24V power, It’ll be easy to split the supplies by just keeping my current supply for everything but the mount. In the field I’ll be using a single 12V 55Ah battery. I assume the mount power input is separate from the supply that will feed through up to the DEC axis and the supply that powers the USB hub. I guess if need be, some additional decoupling can be added around the dew controller if it ever caused issues for other 12V components. Maybe this is why I sometimes get mysterious image transmission failures.





Terri







On Sep 19, 2019, at 12:32 PM, chris1011@... <mailto:chris1011@...> [ap-gto] <ap-gto@... <mailto:ap-gto@...> > wrote:





Mount current draw is the following as measured at the power supply:

At 24 volts - 0.39 amps normal tracking. At 1800x - 2..06 amps 1 axis, 3.24 amps 2 axis slewing.

At 12 volts - 0.69 amps normal tracking. At 1200x - 2..91 amps 1 axis, 4.43 amps 2 axis slewing.



For 600x slewing, current draw is approximately half of the above

For 900x slewing current draw is approx 75% of above.



The mount comes with a 10 amp 24 volt supply (240 watts) and can be used with 120 and 240 volt input power.

If you run this mount from a different power supply, I recommend that you do not run dew heaters from that same supply since these put heavy spikes in the line that can disrupt the mount control circuit. Batteries tend to be ok since they can deliver the high inrush currents that dew heaters produce without dropping below the 10 - 11 volt min. limit that can cause motor stalls.



Roland Christen

Astro-Physics Inc.


Worsel
 

Terri

I purchased the A-P Online Power meter some time ago
and have found it very useful.for assessing current draw under varying loads, balancing the scope, evaluating if something is binding somewhere, e.g. cable drag, remaining battery capacity.

Bryan


---In ap-gto@..., <theresamarie11@...> wrote :

Rolando, thank you again for all of the great information.   You should put some of this in your specification (just a suggestion).   I’ll be able to monitor it once I have a chance to connect the Mach2 to a battery since I have a shunt installed to monitor draw.   I’ve never noticed the spikiness of the dew controller, but do know that they're pulse width modulated (not clear on frequency) and I currently use a simple 5A “brick” supply with my current setup that supplies everything (mount, heaters, camera cooler, focuser, USB hub, etc) when running at home.    With the Mach2 and supplied 24V power, It’ll be easy to split the supplies by just keeping my current supply for everything but the mount.   In the field I’ll be using a single 12V 55Ah battery.    I assume the mount power input is separate from the supply that will feed through up to the DEC axis and the supply that powers the USB hub.    I guess if need be, some additional decoupling can be added around the dew controller if it ever caused issues for other 12V components.     Maybe this is why I sometimes get mysterious image transmission failures.    


Terri



On Sep 19, 2019, at 12:32 PM, chris1011@... [ap-gto] <ap-gto@...> wrote:


Mount current draw is the following as measured at the power supply: 
At 24 volts - 0.39 amps normal tracking. At 1800x - 2..06 amps 1 axis, 3.24 amps 2 axis slewing.
At 12 volts - 0.69 amps normal tracking. At 1200x - 2..91 amps 1 axis, 4.43 amps 2 axis slewing.

For 600x slewing, current draw is approximately half of the above
For 900x slewing current draw is approx 75% of above.

The mount comes with a 10 amp 24 volt supply (240 watts) and can be used with 120 and 240 volt input power.
If you run this mount from a different power supply, I recommend that you do not run dew heaters from that same supply since these put heavy spikes in the line that can disrupt the mount control circuit. Batteries tend to be ok since they can deliver the high inrush currents that dew heaters produce without dropping below the 10 - 11 volt min. limit that can cause motor stalls.

Roland Christen
Astro-Physics Inc.




Terri Zittritsch
 

Thanks Karen, I do see that the A-P forums are a little friendlier in general.   Realize that I’ll only have an A-P mount after I get my Mach2, and will be shooting through my TEC140 or other scope.  Although after seeing your fathers TEC140 at NEAF, I know I’m in good company!   Within the last couple of months I had decided I was going to try and upgrade my 100mm (500-600mm) imaging platform scope and casually thought I’d get my name on the list for a Stowaway..  nothing doing.   Any idea what year that list might open back up again, or whether I may have better luck on the secondary market?


Terri

On Sep 19, 2019, at 11:36 AM, Karen karen@... [ap-gto] <ap-gto@...> wrote:

 

Terri,

Please do share your imaging results with us.  From what I’ve seen this group is generally very complimentary to all imagers.  If you request critique or suggestions, they’ll offer that, too.  But I think I can speak for the group when I say that we enjoy everyone’s astro images.  No one should feel down with the ants. 

Karen

 

From: ap-gto@... [mailto:ap-gto@...]
Sent: Wednesday, September 18, 2019 2:31 PM
To: ap-gto@...
Subject: Re: [ap-gto] Using the GTO keypad with the Mach2

 

 

Hi Karen, thank you for the response.. good to hear from you too.   So you satisfied my curiosity on this one.. as I was wondering if the signature was some kind of inside thing known only to long-time forum users, and given most users address your father as Roland, when he signs as Rolando, I just had to ask to make sure I wasn’t doing it wrong.   But it seems not, so exotic Rolando it will be.    I looked up Rolando, and at least one meaning for Spanish, Italian and Portuguese is "famous throughout the land", which seems appropriate in our hobby.  

 

I’m very excited to own one of your products and I’ll have to decide if I’m brave enough to post any of my AP results.… you have some incredibly talented users, including your father.  Being an early customer of Adam Block, when he was selling video’s out of the University of Arizona, I made the mistake of showing him some of my early DSLR AP work, and it brought me down to earth, kind of down to where the ants roam….     

 

One of the things I’m still wondering how to do, is how to alert my fellow astro-club members that they should expect 2-3 of months clouds around every new moon once I receive delivery.   

 

 

best, 

Terri



On Sep 18, 2019, at 12:35 PM, Karen karen@... [ap-gto] <ap-gto@...> wrote:

 

 

Hi Terri,

 

I’ll let the technical experts respond to most of your questions, but I can answer the last one..  When it comes to Roland’s name, you’re welcome to stick with whatever name you’re most comfortable with.  When he wants to sound official he signs his full name, Rolando is his more exotic persona, UncaRollo is what his nieces and nephews call him, and I refer to him as Dad.  He doesn’t stand on ceremony.  Use the moniker you like best.  Mr A-P might be my new favorite.  J

 

It’s great to hear from you, Terri, and we’re really looking forward to seeing the results from your Mach2!

Karen

 

From: ap-gto@... [mailto:ap-gto@...] 
Sent: Wednesday, September 18, 2019 8:28 AM
To: chris1011@... [ap-gto] <ap-gto@...>
Subject: Fwd: [ap-gto] Using the GTO keypad with the Mach2

 

  

A few more questions for the Mach2.

 

First, what is the counterweight need for the Mach2?  I was surprised about the larger mounts needing from 90-120% of the weight of the load.   Is this what I can expect for the Mach2 as well?  I do understand that part of this will depend on how far the load is from the axis, and right now I’m planning side-by-side mounting of scope/guide scope to keep things close to the axis.    I know this isn’t ideal and I’ll have to deal with unequal scope-saddle movement.

 

Secondly, I notice that the power needs show 12V/24V and 5A continuous.   Should this really be 60W continuous (12V, 5A) or will it really draw 120W (5A) at 24V?    Is this the result of the high holding current of micro-steppers on the mount?  I know when I saw the demo at NEAF the mount was resisting and correcting for bumps/wind.    I also remember hearing at some point that the mount will still track well with 20 pounds of imbalance, am I remembering this right?     I think I’ll be happy that I purchased the mighty-max sealed 55AH battery rather than the ubiquitous battery boxes with lights which contain tiny little batteries (although my arms and back will never forgive me).

 

Third, I’ve heard that the encoders will give me peace of mind because the mount will always know where it is.   I think I know what it means, but just to make sure my understanding is correct:    The mount knowing where it’s pointing, really only refers to knowing the absolute position of the shafts, and has nothing to do with knowing the absolute position of where the mount is pointing (the sky).   Even assuming perfect polar alignment, the mount still can’t understand where it’s pointing without some initial synchronization with at least a star or three or a model of the sky.   With a model plus the encoders, then you’ll know the absolute position (I think).  Am I thinking of this correctly?

And how practical is it to create a model of the sky when you’re using the mount in a non-permanent way?   Can I create a model in less than an hour, or is this a long process only really intended for permanent mounting and for mobile users we’ll just do a few star synchronization after polar alignment (I guess a model of sorts)?

 

Lastly for Mr. A-P himself, I’ve addressed you as both Roland and Rolando, and am getting uncomfortable with this ambiguity.   Everywhere outside of this forum, I’ve seen the name listed as Roland, but your signature here is shown as Rolando.   How do you prefer to be addressed?    It may seem a silly question, but I think it’s important to use the form/spelling of your name as you prefer.   I do understand they are forms of the same name.    

 

 

Terri

 

 

Begin forwarded message:

 

From: Terri Zittritsch <theresamarie11@gmail..com>

Subject: Re: [ap-gto] Using the GTO keypad with the Mach2

Date: September 15, 2019 at 10:47:33 AM EDT

To: "chris1011@... [ap-gto]" <ap-gto@...>

 

Rolando, I’ve just placed my order for all accessories including a keypad with my vendor.    Should I have waited on the keypad until the Mach2 is shipping, or is this a pretty transparent change that I’ll just get software updates for?   Just want to make sure I’m not missing something by purchasing the keypad early.

 

 

Terri




On Sep 14, 2019, at 5:46 PM, chris1011@... [ap-gto] <ap-gto@...> wrote:

 

 

Nothing has changed on the keypad physically.. Some of the buttons may change function. We don't have a final software set yet. We are adding in some things that will be very useful to imagers.

 

Rolando

 

 

 

-----Original Message-----
From: Thomas Fischer manusfisch@... [ap-gto] <ap-gto@...>
To: ap-gto <ap-gto@...>
Sent: Sat, Sep 14, 2019 3:14 pm
Subject: Re: [ap-gto] Using the GTO keypad with the Mach2

 

Also will they be the same form factor,  i’ve just gotten used to the buttons 

Tom Fischer

 

On Sat, Sep 14, 2019 at 12:42 deanjacobsen@... [ap-gto] <ap-gto@...> wrote:

 

Thanks Roland.

 

When do you anticipate that the Mach2 manual and the CP5 manual will make its way to the support page?

 

Dean Jacobsen

 

 

 

 

 

 




Terri Zittritsch
 

Rolando, thank you again for all of the great information.   You should put some of this in your specification (just a suggestion).   I’ll be able to monitor it once I have a chance to connect the Mach2 to a battery since I have a shunt installed to monitor draw.   I’ve never noticed the spikiness of the dew controller, but do know that they're pulse width modulated (not clear on frequency) and I currently use a simple 5A “brick” supply with my current setup that supplies everything (mount, heaters, camera cooler, focuser, USB hub, etc) when running at home.    With the Mach2 and supplied 24V power, It’ll be easy to split the supplies by just keeping my current supply for everything but the mount.   In the field I’ll be using a single 12V 55Ah battery.    I assume the mount power input is separate from the supply that will feed through up to the DEC axis and the supply that powers the USB hub.    I guess if need be, some additional decoupling can be added around the dew controller if it ever caused issues for other 12V components.     Maybe this is why I sometimes get mysterious image transmission failures.    


Terri



On Sep 19, 2019, at 12:32 PM, chris1011@... [ap-gto] <ap-gto@...> wrote:


Mount current draw is the following as measured at the power supply: 
At 24 volts - 0.39 amps normal tracking. At 1800x - 2..06 amps 1 axis, 3.24 amps 2 axis slewing.
At 12 volts - 0.69 amps normal tracking. At 1200x - 2..91 amps 1 axis, 4.43 amps 2 axis slewing.

For 600x slewing, current draw is approximately half of the above
For 900x slewing current draw is approx 75% of above.

The mount comes with a 10 amp 24 volt supply (240 watts) and can be used with 120 and 240 volt input power.
If you run this mount from a different power supply, I recommend that you do not run dew heaters from that same supply since these put heavy spikes in the line that can disrupt the mount control circuit. Batteries tend to be ok since they can deliver the high inrush currents that dew heaters produce without dropping below the 10 - 11 volt min. limit that can cause motor stalls.

Roland Christen
Astro-Physics Inc.


-----Original Message-----
From: Terri Zittritsch theresamarie11@... [ap-gto] <ap-gto@...>
To: Karen karen@... [ap-gto] <ap-gto@...>
Sent: Thu, Sep 19, 2019 8:41 am
Subject: Re: [ap-gto] Using the GTO keypad with the Mach2



Rolando, thank you for the reply and someone else (Woody I think) also suggested it is likely lower during normal tracking.   On your specifications it shows 5A continuous, which I can understand the need to specify based on what you’ve said the mount will need for slewing, but it might help to specify typical draw during tracking so battery users can plan capacity needs.  As soon as I get a mount I’ll measure it all as I have a shunt to monitor my usage.   Anyways, just a suggestion.     Having a 24V plug in supply delivered with the mount is great, and I’ll likely never use 24V without AC.

best,
Terri




On Sep 18, 2019, at 6:18 PM, chris1011@... [ap-gto] <ap-gto@...> wrote:


Secondly, I notice that the power needs show 12V/24V and 5A continuous..   Should this really be 60W continuous (12V, 5A) or will it really draw 120W (5A) at 24V?    Is this the result of the high holding current of micro-steppers on the mount?  I know when I saw the demo at NEAF the mount was resisting and correcting for bumps/wind.    I also remember hearing at some point that the mount will still track well with 20 pounds of imbalance, am I remembering this right?     I think I’ll be happy that I purchased the mighty-max sealed 55AH battery rather than the ubiquitous battery boxes with lights which contain tiny little batteries (although my arms and back will never forgive me).
The mount draws less than 1 amp when tracking, which is what it will do most of the time. When slewing, the mount will draw anywhere from 2.5 to 4.5 amps, depending on slew speed. The mount comes with a 24 volt 10 amp power supply.. The mount can also be operated from a 12 volt battery, in which case it will be limited to 1200x max slew rate. We have operated the mount for several days on a small 12 volt battery that they use for wheelchairs.

Rolando


-----Original Message-----
From: Terri Zittritsch theresamarie11@... [ap-gto] <ap-gto@...>
To: chris1011@... [ap-gto] <ap-gto@...>
Sent: Wed, Sep 18, 2019 8:31 am
Subject: Fwd: [ap-gto] Using the GTO keypad with the Mach2



A few more questions for the Mach2.

First, what is the counterweight need for the Mach2?  I was surprised about the larger mounts needing from 90-120% of the weight of the load.   Is this what I can expect for the Mach2 as well?  I do understand that part of this will depend on how far the load is from the axis, and right now I’m planning side-by-side mounting of scope/guide scope to keep things close to the axis.    I know this isn’t ideal and I’ll have to deal with unequal scope-saddle movement.

Secondly, I notice that the power needs show 12V/24V and 5A continuous.   Should this really be 60W continuous (12V, 5A) or will it really draw 120W (5A) at 24V?    Is this the result of the high holding current of micro-steppers on the mount?  I know when I saw the demo at NEAF the mount was resisting and correcting for bumps/wind.    I also remember hearing at some point that the mount will still track well with 20 pounds of imbalance, am I remembering this right?     I think I’ll be happy that I purchased the mighty-max sealed 55AH battery rather than the ubiquitous battery boxes with lights which contain tiny little batteries (although my arms and back will never forgive me).

Third, I’ve heard that the encoders will give me peace of mind because the mount will always know where it is.   I think I know what it means, but just to make sure my understanding is correct:    The mount knowing where it’s pointing, really only refers to knowing the absolute position of the shafts, and has nothing to do with knowing the absolute position of where the mount is pointing (the sky).   Even assuming perfect polar alignment, the mount still can’t understand where it’s pointing without some initial synchronization with at least a star or three or a model of the sky.   With a model plus the encoders, then you’ll know the absolute position (I think).  Am I thinking of this correctly?
And how practical is it to create a model of the sky when you’re using the mount in a non-permanent way?   Can I create a model in less than an hour, or is this a long process only really intended for permanent mounting and for mobile users we’ll just do a few star synchronization after polar alignment (I guess a model of sorts)?

Lastly for Mr. A-P himself, I’ve addressed you as both Roland and Rolando, and am getting uncomfortable with this ambiguity.   Everywhere outside of this forum, I’ve seen the name listed as Roland, but your signature here is shown as Rolando.   How do you prefer to be addressed?    It may seem a silly question, but I think it’s important to use the form/spelling of your name as you prefer.   I do understand they are forms of the same name.    


Terri


Begin forwarded message:

From: Terri Zittritsch <theresamarie11@gmail..com>
Subject: Re: [ap-gto] Using the GTO keypad with the Mach2
Date: September 15, 2019 at 10:47:33 AM EDT
To: "chris1011@... [ap-gto]" <ap-gto@...>

Rolando, I’ve just placed my order for all accessories including a keypad with my vendor.    Should I have waited on the keypad until the Mach2 is shipping, or is this a pretty transparent change that I’ll just get software updates for?   Just want to make sure I’m not missing something by purchasing the keypad early.


Terri

On Sep 14, 2019, at 5:46 PM, chris1011@... [ap-gto] <ap-gto@...> wrote:


Nothing has changed on the keypad physically. Some of the buttons may change function. We don't have a final software set yet. We are adding in some things that will be very useful to imagers.

Rolando



-----Original Message-----
From: Thomas Fischer manusfisch@... [ap-gto] <ap-gto@...>
To: ap-gto <ap-gto@...>
Sent: Sat, Sep 14, 2019 3:14 pm
Subject: Re: [ap-gto] Using the GTO keypad with the Mach2



Also will they be the same form factor,  i’ve just gotten used to the buttons 
Tom Fischer

On Sat, Sep 14, 2019 at 12:42 deanjacobsen@... [ap-gto] <ap-gto@...> wrote:
 
Thanks Roland.

When do you anticipate that the Mach2 manual and the CP5 manual will make its way to the support page?

Dean Jacobsen














Roland Christen
 

Mount current draw is the following as measured at the power supply:
At 24 volts - 0.39 amps normal tracking. At 1800x - 2.06 amps 1 axis, 3.24 amps 2 axis slewing.
At 12 volts - 0.69 amps normal tracking. At 1200x - 2.91 amps 1 axis, 4.43 amps 2 axis slewing.

For 600x slewing, current draw is approximately half of the above
For 900x slewing current draw is approx 75% of above.

The mount comes with a 10 amp 24 volt supply (240 watts) and can be used with 120 and 240 volt input power.
If you run this mount from a different power supply, I recommend that you do not run dew heaters from that same supply since these put heavy spikes in the line that can disrupt the mount control circuit. Batteries tend to be ok since they can deliver the high inrush currents that dew heaters produce without dropping below the 10 - 11 volt min. limit that can cause motor stalls.

Roland Christen
Astro-Physics Inc.


-----Original Message-----
From: Terri Zittritsch theresamarie11@... [ap-gto]
To: Karen karen@... [ap-gto]
Sent: Thu, Sep 19, 2019 8:41 am
Subject: Re: [ap-gto] Using the GTO keypad with the Mach2



Rolando, thank you for the reply and someone else (Woody I think) also suggested it is likely lower during normal tracking.   On your specifications it shows 5A continuous, which I can understand the need to specify based on what you’ve said the mount will need for slewing, but it might help to specify typical draw during tracking so battery users can plan capacity needs.  As soon as I get a mount I’ll measure it all as I have a shunt to monitor my usage.   Anyways, just a suggestion.     Having a 24V plug in supply delivered with the mount is great, and I’ll likely never use 24V without AC.

best,
Terri




On Sep 18, 2019, at 6:18 PM, chris1011@... [ap-gto] <ap-gto@...> wrote:


Secondly, I notice that the power needs show 12V/24V and 5A continuous..   Should this really be 60W continuous (12V, 5A) or will it really draw 120W (5A) at 24V?    Is this the result of the high holding current of micro-steppers on the mount?  I know when I saw the demo at NEAF the mount was resisting and correcting for bumps/wind.    I also remember hearing at some point that the mount will still track well with 20 pounds of imbalance, am I remembering this right?     I think I’ll be happy that I purchased the mighty-max sealed 55AH battery rather than the ubiquitous battery boxes with lights which contain tiny little batteries (although my arms and back will never forgive me).
The mount draws less than 1 amp when tracking, which is what it will do most of the time. When slewing, the mount will draw anywhere from 2.5 to 4.5 amps, depending on slew speed. The mount comes with a 24 volt 10 amp power supply. The mount can also be operated from a 12 volt battery, in which case it will be limited to 1200x max slew rate. We have operated the mount for several days on a small 12 volt battery that they use for wheelchairs.

Rolando


-----Original Message-----
From: Terri Zittritsch theresamarie11@... [ap-gto] <ap-gto@...>
To: chris1011@... [ap-gto] <ap-gto@...>
Sent: Wed, Sep 18, 2019 8:31 am
Subject: Fwd: [ap-gto] Using the GTO keypad with the Mach2



A few more questions for the Mach2.

First, what is the counterweight need for the Mach2?  I was surprised about the larger mounts needing from 90-120% of the weight of the load.   Is this what I can expect for the Mach2 as well?  I do understand that part of this will depend on how far the load is from the axis, and right now I’m planning side-by-side mounting of scope/guide scope to keep things close to the axis.    I know this isn’t ideal and I’ll have to deal with unequal scope-saddle movement.

Secondly, I notice that the power needs show 12V/24V and 5A continuous.   Should this really be 60W continuous (12V, 5A) or will it really draw 120W (5A) at 24V?    Is this the result of the high holding current of micro-steppers on the mount?  I know when I saw the demo at NEAF the mount was resisting and correcting for bumps/wind.    I also remember hearing at some point that the mount will still track well with 20 pounds of imbalance, am I remembering this right?     I think I’ll be happy that I purchased the mighty-max sealed 55AH battery rather than the ubiquitous battery boxes with lights which contain tiny little batteries (although my arms and back will never forgive me).

Third, I’ve heard that the encoders will give me peace of mind because the mount will always know where it is.   I think I know what it means, but just to make sure my understanding is correct:    The mount knowing where it’s pointing, really only refers to knowing the absolute position of the shafts, and has nothing to do with knowing the absolute position of where the mount is pointing (the sky).   Even assuming perfect polar alignment, the mount still can’t understand where it’s pointing without some initial synchronization with at least a star or three or a model of the sky.   With a model plus the encoders, then you’ll know the absolute position (I think).  Am I thinking of this correctly?
And how practical is it to create a model of the sky when you’re using the mount in a non-permanent way?   Can I create a model in less than an hour, or is this a long process only really intended for permanent mounting and for mobile users we’ll just do a few star synchronization after polar alignment (I guess a model of sorts)?

Lastly for Mr. A-P himself, I’ve addressed you as both Roland and Rolando, and am getting uncomfortable with this ambiguity.   Everywhere outside of this forum, I’ve seen the name listed as Roland, but your signature here is shown as Rolando.   How do you prefer to be addressed?    It may seem a silly question, but I think it’s important to use the form/spelling of your name as you prefer.   I do understand they are forms of the same name.    


Terri


Begin forwarded message:

From: Terri Zittritsch <theresamarie11@gmail..com>
Subject: Re: [ap-gto] Using the GTO keypad with the Mach2
Date: September 15, 2019 at 10:47:33 AM EDT
To: "chris1011@... [ap-gto]" <ap-gto@...>

Rolando, I’ve just placed my order for all accessories including a keypad with my vendor.    Should I have waited on the keypad until the Mach2 is shipping, or is this a pretty transparent change that I’ll just get software updates for?   Just want to make sure I’m not missing something by purchasing the keypad early.


Terri

On Sep 14, 2019, at 5:46 PM, chris1011@... [ap-gto] <ap-gto@...> wrote:


Nothing has changed on the keypad physically. Some of the buttons may change function. We don't have a final software set yet. We are adding in some things that will be very useful to imagers.

Rolando



-----Original Message-----
From: Thomas Fischer manusfisch@... [ap-gto] <ap-gto@...>
To: ap-gto <ap-gto@...>
Sent: Sat, Sep 14, 2019 3:14 pm
Subject: Re: [ap-gto] Using the GTO keypad with the Mach2



Also will they be the same form factor,  i’ve just gotten used to the buttons 
Tom Fischer

On Sat, Sep 14, 2019 at 12:42 deanjacobsen@... [ap-gto] <ap-gto@...> wrote:
 
Thanks Roland.

When do you anticipate that the Mach2 manual and the CP5 manual will make its way to the support page?

Dean Jacobsen