Date
1 - 20 of 39
Software wish list
Richard Kinsey
GPS is probably the last thing that I would like to see on my AP1200.
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However, I can think of a number of "refinements" that I would like to offer as constructive comments for consideration. 1. Numbering of the reference stars. If the reference stars were numbered, instead of having to scroll through the list to find an individual star, this would enable the user to quickly select stars at any point in the alphabetical list. No one is going to remember the number of every star, but the idea is that knowing there are say 50 stars on the list, entering 35 quickly puts the user three quarters the way through the list close to the required star and then the next and previous keys can be used to find the exact star. In practice one soon remembers the numbers of stars used on a regular basis and these can be selected immediately by entering their number on the keypad. 2. A "calibration" facility within the software to overcome the effect of a non-orthogonal telescope. I appreciate that shimming the telescope obviously overcomes this problem. However, with over 100lbs of telescope on my AP1200, shimming has become very difficult in practice. A facility within the software to "calibrate" the mount using reference stars on each side of the meridian would be very useful indeed. The only other thing that I would say, bearing in mind Gerald's difficulties in polar aligning in the southern hemisphere, is that I imagine that a facilty to polar align using reference stars would be very welcome by some users. As I have previously said, the above are intended as constructive comments for discussion/consideration. Thanks, Richard
--- In ap-gto@..., Gerald Sargent <sargentg@...> wrote:
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Roland Christen
In a message dated 9/11/2008 4:12:19 AM Central Daylight Time,
richard.kinsey@... writes: The only other thing that I would say, bearing in mind Gerald'sThe meridian delay method eliminates any need for reference stars. It is quick, easy and deadly accurate. All you need is a bright star near the meridian. You then flip the scope back and forth using the meridian delay feature on the keypad to center the star on your crosshair using the altitude adjust. Once you have the star on the crosshair, the altitude axis is set and needs no more adjustment. You can do this in either north or southern hemisphere. No need for a pole star. Once the alt is set, you can adjust the azimuth axis independently. To set the azimuth, you do not need a pole star either. You can start with the same star above that you used to set the alt axis. Center it, press Rcal, then slew to a star anywhere else in the sky with the scope on the same side of the meridian (to avoid the effects of non-orthogonality of the scope). That second star can be in the south, in the east, or in the west. It can even be south-east or south west. Don't go near the pole because the accuracy becomes less up there. The amount of azimuth offset will show up when you start with the star above and then slew to a star in the E, W or S location. Simply adjust the azimuth axis until the second star is centered, then slew back to the one near the zenith. This one will not have moved much since it is in the center of the rotation of the azimuth axis. In this way, you can very quickly set the azimuth angle of your mounting without using any software, without polar scope and since you are free to pick any star E, W or S, you can even do it if you have limited viewing area due to buildings or trees. I think people have trouble with my meridian delay method because they never try it. Maybe they read it in the manual, and conclude that it is somehow very complicated. It is indeed the simplest method available to you. If you start out the scope from Park1 and use the Sun as a reference star, you can set up the mount reasonably close in the daytime, so that at dusk you can begin this Meridian Delay method as soon as the first bright stars are visible. Then, you can quickly begin a more rigorous drift align if need be. However, I have found that the Meridian delay gives me such dead nuts accurate polar align, that I need no other follow up method for normal imaging in the field - it takes me no more than 5 - 10 minutes tops. Only when I am imaging with more than 3000mm focal length do I sometimes use the drift method for final alignments. Rolando ************** Psssst...Have you heard the news? There's a new fashion blog, plus the latest fall trends and hair styles at StyleList.com. (http://www.stylelist.com/trends?ncid=aolsty00050000000014)
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Jeff Young <jey@...>
I think Richard's second suggestion is already being acted upon.
However, I had a thought about his first: as text messaging becomes more popular, more and more people know the mapping from number keys to letters (2 = a, 22 = b, 222 = c, 3 = d, 33 = e, etc.) You could hook it up so that the number keys jumped into the star list at that point in the alphabet. -- Jeff. From: ap-gto@... [mailto:ap-gto@...] On Behalf Of Richard Kinsey Sent: Thursday, September 11, 2008 10:12 AM To: ap-gto@... Subject: [ap-gto] Software wish list GPS is probably the last thing that I would like to see on my AP1200. However, I can think of a number of "refinements" that I would like to offer as constructive comments for consideration. 1. Numbering of the reference stars. If the reference stars were numbered, instead of having to scroll through the list to find an individual star, this would enable the user to quickly select stars at any point in the alphabetical list. No one is going to remember the number of every star, but the idea is that knowing there are say 50 stars on the list, entering 35 quickly puts the user three quarters the way through the list close to the required star and then the next and previous keys can be used to find the exact star. In practice one soon remembers the numbers of stars used on a regular basis and these can be selected immediately by entering their number on the keypad. 2. A "calibration" facility within the software to overcome the effect of a non-orthogonal telescope. I appreciate that shimming the telescope obviously overcomes this problem. However, with over 100lbs of telescope on my AP1200, shimming has become very difficult in practice. A facility within the software to "calibrate" the mount using reference stars on each side of the meridian would be very useful indeed. The only other thing that I would say, bearing in mind Gerald's difficulties in polar aligning in the southern hemisphere, is that I imagine that a facilty to polar align using reference stars would be very welcome by some users. As I have previously said, the above are intended as constructive comments for discussion/consideration. Thanks, Richard --- In ap-gto@...<mailto:ap-gto%40yahoogroups.com>, Gerald Sargent <sargentg@...> wrote:
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Chris Curran <curran.chris@...>
Richard,
2. A "calibration" facility within the software to overcomeJust curious: how does a non-ortho scope impact me? None of my scopes are ortho and I never have a problem with guiding. Is it pointing? Isn't AP already working on that (or have I misunderstood what AP is planning with 'modeling')? I imagine that a facilty to polar align using reference starsMy 1200 does this now. You point at a reference star, change the meridian setting in the hand controller, then re-goto that same star. Adjust alignment. Repeat. It's pretty darn simple (and very accurate). Works in the northern or southern hemisphere. What improvements should be made to this? I have two suggestions for upcoming AP mounts though: 1) A bubble level built into the base of the mount. 2) a red led light built into the hand controller. cheers & beers, Chris
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Larry Phillips
The Mach1 has a bubble level.
Larry --- In ap-gto@..., "Chris Curran" <curran.chris@...> wrote: scopes are ortho and I never have a problem with guiding. Is it pointing?star. Adjust alignment. Repeat. It's pretty darn simple (and veryaccurate). Works in the northern or southern hemisphere. What improvementsshould be made to this?
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Roland Christen
In a message dated 9/11/2008 2:35:31 PM Central Daylight Time,
cdh59@... writes: I'd like to have a luminescent 6" straight level included w/ the mount,Why not purchase one at Ace Hardware? Rolando ************** Psssst...Have you heard the news? There's a new fashion blog, plus the latest fall trends and hair styles at StyleList.com. (http://www.stylelist.com/trends?ncid=aolsty00050000000014)
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Roland Christen
In a message dated 9/11/2008 3:20:10 PM Central Daylight Time, dean@...
writes: Maybe you could machine a nice level directly in the counter weight shaftNo, because to use the Park method you need to move the level from the tube assembly to the counterweight shaft. Also, how would you time the cut in the counterweight shaft so that when you screw it into the axis, that the level would be on the upper part? Rolando ************** Psssst...Have you heard the news? There's a new fashion blog, plus the latest fall trends and hair styles at StyleList.com. (http://www.stylelist.com/trends?ncid=aolsty00050000000014)
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Richard Kinsey
Hi Chris, it is just a matter of pointing accuracy across the
meridian and nothing to do with guiding. If the ota is orthogonal to the mount, then this isn't a problem, but when it isn't, pointing accuracy across the meridian can be quite a way off. It sounds as though a facility of this nature might be "in the pipeline", which is obviously good news if that is the case. Cheers, Richard --- In ap-gto@..., "Chris Curran" <curran.chris@...> wrote: scopes are ortho and I never have a problem with guiding. Is it pointing?star. Adjust alignment. Repeat. It's pretty darn simple (and veryaccurate). Works in the northern or southern hemisphere. What improvementsshould be made to this?
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Joe Zeglinski
Hi Chris,
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I would second your wish for the "red light". I think it should be pointed up from in front of the keypad hook, since I find it hassle to poke around in the dark trying to attach the BLACK ring onto a mating hook on the mount. That requires two hands as I end up doing it by feel - much more difficult with gloves on. To solve my own problem - for lack of a red LED - I plan on "painting the AP keypad hook" with luminous white paint used for fishing lures. If the keypad hook were made of clear plastic material, a backward (not top) pointing red LED could both light up the hook with "edge-lighting", and provide a back pointing lamp when you need to check something with it, and avoid it pointing upward at the scope. As for item #1, the bubble level, I bought one of those cheap two axis bubble levels ( visit Scopestuff) - the one that is on a flat red plastic triangle plate - and simply place it approximately on the AP base plate pivot point, or flush against the azimuth adjuster block, for a more convenient viewpoint. Joe
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris Curran" <curran.chris@...> To: <ap-gto@...> Sent: Thursday, September 11, 2008 11:49 AM Subject: [ap-gto] Re: Software wish list
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Dean S
Since I believe Roland buys the handbox from an industrial supplier it may
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be hard to expect them to want to modify it for what they probably consider a small quantity. But I like your idea of some glow in the dark paint for the hanger. The red light on my old Meade Autostar was handy only becasue it did not keep track of the time like AP does. Dean
----- Original Message -----
From: "Joseph Zeglinski" <J.Zeglinski@...> To: <ap-gto@...> Sent: Thursday, September 11, 2008 12:52 PM Subject: [ap-gto] Re: Software wish list Hi Chris,poke around in the dark trying to attach the BLACK ring onto a mating hook onthe mount. That requires two hands as I end up doing it by feel - much more
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Chuck Hancock
I'd like to have a luminescent 6" straight level included w/ the mount, rather than a bubble level. That way one could use it for resuming from park on initial setup, as well as leveling the tripod AND the mount. If you could implement this in the software, that would be OK, too. Oh, and a coffee maker on the larger mounts, if it could be used for tea as well. :)
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Clear skies, Chuck Chris Curran wrote:
Richard,
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Roland Christen
In a message dated 9/11/2008 6:09:55 PM Central Daylight Time,
llp41astro@... writes: #1. In adjusting azimuth you say you can use the same star used for I usually use the star near the Zenith, near or on the meridian for the first step. If you use this for the second step, you will not change its position on the crosshair as you adjust the azimuth angle (simply because its directly overhead). Think about it. You can realistically use any star in any direction if you start with the one at the Zenith. Rolando ************** Psssst...Have you heard the news? There's a new fashion blog, plus the latest fall trends and hair styles at StyleList.com. (http://www.stylelist.com/trends?ncid=aolsty00050000000014)
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Dean S
Maybe you could machine a nice level directly in the counter weight shaft
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with a digital readout??? That would be Sweeeeet :) (and $$$)
----- Original Message -----
From: <chris1011@...> To: <ap-gto@...> Sent: Thursday, September 11, 2008 4:12 PM Subject: Re: [ap-gto] Re: Software wish list In a message dated 9/11/2008 2:35:31 PM Central Daylight Time,
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Chris Curran <curran.chris@...>
I don't "hang" my controller on it's hook. I have some of that 2"
industrial velcro on the back of my controller and at various places on the pier. I just "stick" it. I'd like the red led for use as a flashlight - for when I drop stuff on the ground and my real flashlight it back at the laptop. Say you're trying to adjust that PAS reticle and you drop that 0.9mm black hex wrench on the ground.... Yea, I did that and by the time I got back with light, it was too late. :) I have plenty of bubble/other levels. I'd just like to have it "built in" so I didn't have to find it each time I setup. I suppose I could epoxy one to the mount... Luminous white paint? Really? Please don't setup next to me. :) cheers & beers, Chris --- In ap-gto@..., "Joseph Zeglinski" <J.Zeglinski@...> wrote: to poke around in the dark trying to attach the BLACK ring onto a matinghook on the mount. That requires two hands as I end up doing it by feel - much more"painting the AP keypad hook" with luminous white paint used for fishinglures. If the keypad hook were made of clear plastic material, a backward(not top) pointing red LED could both light up the hook with "edge-lighting", andit, and avoid it pointing upward at the scope.two axis bubble levels ( visit Scopestuff) - the one that is on a flat redplastic triangle plate - and simply place it approximately on the AP base plate
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Ladislav Nemec <nemecl@...>
As a 'poor relative' of you AP folks with my Losmandy/Gemini mount I dare to
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ask a question: can this method be used on my mount? OK, I should have probably googled the subject first. From the description below it seems that the method does not really depend on any specific feature of AP mounts but I may be wrong. Apologies form a poor relative. LN
-----Original Message-----
From: ap-gto@... [mailto:ap-gto@...] On Behalf Of chris1011@... Sent: Thursday, September 11, 2008 8:34 AM To: ap-gto@... Cc: Howard@... Subject: Re: [ap-gto] Software wish list In a message dated 9/11/2008 4:12:19 AM Central Daylight Time, richard.kinsey@ <mailto:richard.kinsey%40tiscali.co.uk> tiscali.co.uk writes: The only other thing that I would say, bearing in mind Gerald'sThe meridian delay method eliminates any need for reference stars. It is quick, easy and deadly accurate. All you need is a bright star near the meridian. You then flip the scope back and forth using the meridian delay feature on the keypad to center the star on your crosshair using the altitude adjust. Once you have the star on the crosshair, the altitude axis is set and needs no more adjustment. You can do this in either north or southern hemisphere. No need for a pole star. Once the alt is set, you can adjust the azimuth axis independently. To set the azimuth, you do not need a pole star either. You can start with the same star above that you used to set the alt axis. Center it, press Rcal, then slew to a star anywhere else in the sky with the scope on the same side of the meridian (to avoid the effects of non-orthogonality of the scope). That second star can be in the south, in the east, or in the west. It can even be south-east or south west. Don't go near the pole because the accuracy becomes less up there. The amount of azimuth offset will show up when you start with the star above and then slew to a star in the E, W or S location. Simply adjust the azimuth axis until the second star is centered, then slew back to the one near the zenith. This one will not have moved much since it is in the center of the rotation of the azimuth axis. In this way, you can very quickly set the azimuth angle of your mounting without using any software, without polar scope and since you are free to pick any star E, W or S, you can even do it if you have limited viewing area due to buildings or trees. I think people have trouble with my meridian delay method because they never try it. Maybe they read it in the manual, and conclude that it is somehow very complicated. It is indeed the simplest method available to you. If you start out the scope from Park1 and use the Sun as a reference star, you can set up the mount reasonably close in the daytime, so that at dusk you can begin this Meridian Delay method as soon as the first bright stars are visible. Then, you can quickly begin a more rigorous drift align if need be. However, I have found that the Meridian delay gives me such dead nuts accurate polar align, that I need no other follow up method for normal imaging in the field - it takes me no more than 5 - 10 minutes tops. Only when I am imaging with more than 3000mm focal length do I sometimes use the drift method for final alignments. Rolando ************** Psssst...Have you heard the news? There's a new fashion blog, plus the latest fall trends and hair styles at StyleList.com. (http://www.stylelis <http://www.stylelist.com/trends?ncid=aolsty00050000000014> t.com/trends?ncid=aolsty00050000000014)
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Dean S
I'm sure the if it could be done AP can figure it out :)
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In the mean time I will keep using my digital protrac level. Dean Yes I was joking, but then again.............
----- Original Message -----
From: <chris1011@...> To: <ap-gto@...> Sent: Thursday, September 11, 2008 4:23 PM Subject: Re: [ap-gto] Re: Software wish list In a message dated 9/11/2008 3:20:10 PM Central Daylight Time, dean@...
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Chuck Hancock
kidding ;)
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chris1011@... wrote:
In a message dated 9/11/2008 2:35:31 PM Central Daylight Time, cdh59@... writes:
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Ladislav Nemec <nemecl@...>
One should, indeed, do his quick search before asking a question here. It
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appears that the method described in detail in one of the AP manuals can be used for Gemini Level 4. I never tried that but, apparently, as long as the same object can be reached from both east and west from meridian, a command 'Meridian Flip' appears on the Gemini Quick Menu. Actually simpler than described in the AP manual. In about 5 hours I'll try that. Again, my apologies for being off-topic here but Rolando certainly gives a good advice, not only to AP users. Best, LN
-----Original Message-----
From: ap-gto@... [mailto:ap-gto@...] On Behalf Of Ladislav Nemec Sent: Thursday, September 11, 2008 2:28 PM To: ap-gto@... Subject: RE: [ap-gto] Software wish list As a 'poor relative' of you AP folks with my Losmandy/Gemini mount I dare to ask a question: can this method be used on my mount? OK, I should have probably googled the subject first. From the description below it seems that the method does not really depend on any specific feature of AP mounts but I may be wrong. Apologies form a poor relative. LN -----Original Message----- From: ap-gto@yahoogroups. <mailto:ap-gto%40yahoogroups.com> com [mailto:ap-gto@yahoogroups. <mailto:ap-gto%40yahoogroups.com> com] On Behalf Of chris1011@aol. <mailto:chris1011%40aol.com> com Sent: Thursday, September 11, 2008 8:34 AM To: ap-gto@yahoogroups. <mailto:ap-gto%40yahoogroups.com> com Cc: Howard@astro- <mailto:Howard%40astro-physics.com> physics.com Subject: Re: [ap-gto] Software wish list In a message dated 9/11/2008 4:12:19 AM Central Daylight Time, richard.kinsey@ <mailto:richard.kinsey%40tiscali.co.uk> tiscali.co.uk writes: The only other thing that I would say, bearing in mind Gerald'sThe meridian delay method eliminates any need for reference stars. It is quick, easy and deadly accurate. All you need is a bright star near the meridian. You then flip the scope back and forth using the meridian delay feature on the keypad to center the star on your crosshair using the altitude adjust. Once you have the star on the crosshair, the altitude axis is set and needs no more adjustment. You can do this in either north or southern hemisphere. No need for a pole star. Once the alt is set, you can adjust the azimuth axis independently. To set the azimuth, you do not need a pole star either. You can start with the same star above that you used to set the alt axis. Center it, press Rcal, then slew to a star anywhere else in the sky with the scope on the same side of the meridian (to avoid the effects of non-orthogonality of the scope). That second star can be in the south, in the east, or in the west. It can even be south-east or south west. Don't go near the pole because the accuracy becomes less up there. The amount of azimuth offset will show up when you start with the star above and then slew to a star in the E, W or S location. Simply adjust the azimuth axis until the second star is centered, then slew back to the one near the zenith. This one will not have moved much since it is in the center of the rotation of the azimuth axis. In this way, you can very quickly set the azimuth angle of your mounting without using any software, without polar scope and since you are free to pick any star E, W or S, you can even do it if you have limited viewing area due to buildings or trees. I think people have trouble with my meridian delay method because they never try it. Maybe they read it in the manual, and conclude that it is somehow very complicated. It is indeed the simplest method available to you. If you start out the scope from Park1 and use the Sun as a reference star, you can set up the mount reasonably close in the daytime, so that at dusk you can begin this Meridian Delay method as soon as the first bright stars are visible. Then, you can quickly begin a more rigorous drift align if need be. However, I have found that the Meridian delay gives me such dead nuts accurate polar align, that I need no other follow up method for normal imaging in the field - it takes me no more than 5 - 10 minutes tops. Only when I am imaging with more than 3000mm focal length do I sometimes use the drift method for final alignments. Rolando ************** Psssst...Have you heard the news? There's a new fashion blog, plus the latest fall trends and hair styles at StyleList.com. (http://www.stylelis <http://www.stylelis <http://www.stylelist.com/trends?ncid=aolsty00050000000014> t.com/trends?ncid=aolsty00050000000014> t.com/trends?ncid=aolsty00050000000014)
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Larry Phillips
Roland,
I have two questions about your comments below concerning the Meridan Delay alignment procedure. #1. In adjusting azimuth you say you can use the same star used for altitude to move back to, which you said earlier in the description should be near the meridian. Then you say after going to a second star you move back to the one near the zenith. You never mentioned the star should be near the zenith earlier. Did you mean meridian? #2. In the Keypad manual to make the azimuth adjustment, it says to select two stars in the east or west with similar right ascension values. Your description here is different since you say you can use for one of the stars the one used for altitude adjustment. Will either way work the same? I am just trying to clear up the confusion in my mind about this. Thanks for any response you can provide. Larry --- In ap-gto@..., chris1011@... wrote: that I beimagine that a facilty to polar align using reference stars would It isvery welcome by some users.The meridian delay method eliminates any need for reference stars. quick, easy and deadly accurate. All you need is a bright star nearthe meridian. You then flip the scope back and forth using the meridian delayfeature on the keypad to center the star on your crosshair using the altitudeadjust. Once you have the star on the crosshair, the altitude axis is set andneeds no more adjustment. You can do this in either north or southern hemisphere.No need for a pole star.To set the azimuth, you do not need a pole star either. You can start withthe same star above that you used to set the alt axis. Center it, pressRcal, then slew to a star anywhere else in the sky with the scope on the same side ofthe meridian (to avoid the effects of non-orthogonality of the scope).That second star can be in the south, in the east, or in the west. It can even besouth-east or south west. Don't go near the pole because the accuracy becomesless up there. The amount of azimuth offset will show up when you startwith the star above and then slew to a star in the E, W or S location. Simply adjustthe azimuth axis until the second star is centered, then slew back to the onenear the zenith. This one will not have moved much since it is in the centerof the rotation of the azimuth axis. In this way, you can very quickly setthe azimuth angle of your mounting without using any software, without polarscope and since you are free to pick any star E, W or S, you can even do it if youhave limited viewing area due to buildings or trees.they never try it. Maybe they read it in the manual, and conclude that it issomehow very complicated. It is indeed the simplest method available to you. Ifyou start out the scope from Park1 and use the Sun as a reference star, youcan set up the mount reasonably close in the daytime, so that at dusk you canbegin this Meridian Delay method as soon as the first bright stars arevisible. Then, you can quickly begin a more rigorous drift align if need be. However,I have found that the Meridian delay gives me such dead nuts accuratepolar align, that I need no other follow up method for normal imaging in the field - ittakes me no more than 5 - 10 minutes tops. Only when I am imaging with morethan 3000mm focal length do I sometimes use the drift method for finalalignments.
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masterson_harold <hfm5022@...>
Roland,
Is any consideration being give to replacing the existing keypad polar alignment routines (N Polar Calibrate and Two-star Calibration) with a more automated keypad version of the MD procedure? Seems the existing routines can have a problem converging while the MD procedure is very robust. Thanks Harold --- In ap-gto@..., chris1011@... wrote: for descriptionaltitude to move back to, which you said earlier in the secondshould be near the meridian. Then you say after going to a mentionedstar you move back to the one near the zenith. You never meridian?the star should be near the zenith earlier. Did you mean the first step. If you use this for the second step, you will not change itsposition on the crosshair as you adjust the azimuth angle (simply becauseits directly overhead).to useselect two stars in the east or west with similar right ascension if youfor one of the stars the one used for altitude adjustment. WillThink about it. You can realistically use any star in any direction start with the one at the Zenith.
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