Broken clutch knob


kawasaki99@...
 

Hello Strong Man,
Local hardware store ought to sell an (easy-out) which is a
sort of a left hand thread tap and the proper size pilot drill for the
easy-out. If it's only hand tight to ought to come out. Have an assistant hold a
vacuum cleaner hose close to broken screw while drilling the pilot hole to
capture any small chips. A small center drill or sharp prick punch may be necessary
to ensure the pilot drill puts the hole close to the true center of the
broken screw. Sounds like a lot but it's generally easy.



**************************************See AOL's top rated recipes
(http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004)


Peter Santangeli
 

Sadly, while setting up today in my yard, I went to tighten one of my
RA clutch knobs on my AP900 and it snapped off in my hand. It broke
off about 5mm down, so that I can just see about 2 mm of the bolt
inside of it. The rest of the shaft is no doubt stuck down in the hole
it screws into.

A couple of questions...

Is there a way for me to get the shaft out?
Can I order a replacement?
Am I stuck sending my RA assembly back to AP :-(
Any danger of me using it this way until a convenient time?

I'm really surprise - I've never, ever tightened this much. Never used
hex keys, for instance. I must be stronger than I thought!

Pete


observe_m13
 

--- In ap-gto@..., "Peter Santangeli" <peter@...> wrote:


Sadly, while setting up today in my yard, I went to tighten one of my
RA clutch knobs on my AP900 and it snapped off in my hand. It broke
off about 5mm down, so that I can just see about 2 mm of the bolt
inside of it. The rest of the shaft is no doubt stuck down in the hole
it screws into.

A couple of questions...

Is there a way for me to get the shaft out?
Can I order a replacement?
Am I stuck sending my RA assembly back to AP :-(
Any danger of me using it this way until a convenient time?

I'm really surprise - I've never, ever tightened this much. Never used
hex keys, for instance. I must be stronger than I thought!

Pete
Sounds like you had a faulty part. I doubt that you could have twisted
it off otherwise. Now, getting it out is going to be a thorny issue.

One of the first things that come to mind is to use a Dremel tool with
a cut-off wheel attachement to carefully grind a slot across the
exposed end of the 2mm portion extending out of the piece and then use
a flat blade screwdriver to back it out.

Another is to use a brand new set of high quality vise grips so that
the biting edge is new and sharp. 2mm isn't much to grip but it might
be possible.

The next obvious method is using a bolt extractor, but this will
probably require a drill press and some sort of jig to hold the head
in position. You might be able to use a hand held drill to drill the
hole for the extractor if you use a Dremel and grind a cross centered
on the exposed broken end. The center of the cross will act a a guide
to center the bit for the hole. If it looks like this isn't going to
work, or you are not mechanically inclined with small parts and
precise work, I think taking the head to a machine shop or possibly
shipping it back to AP is in order. Give AP a call on Monday and see
what they say.

In the meantime, I can't see why you can't use the mount.

Rick.


Peter Santangeli
 

Unfortunately, the piece that remains in the mount is 3mm INSIDE the
casting (the knob came off with 5mm - enough to leave the rest truely
embedded).

Pete

--- In ap-gto@..., "Rick K" <JunkMailGoesHere@...> wrote:

--- In ap-gto@..., "Peter Santangeli" <peter@> wrote:


Sadly, while setting up today in my yard, I went to tighten one of my
RA clutch knobs on my AP900 and it snapped off in my hand. It broke
off about 5mm down, so that I can just see about 2 mm of the bolt
inside of it. The rest of the shaft is no doubt stuck down in the hole
it screws into.

A couple of questions...

Is there a way for me to get the shaft out?
Can I order a replacement?
Am I stuck sending my RA assembly back to AP :-(
Any danger of me using it this way until a convenient time?

I'm really surprise - I've never, ever tightened this much. Never used
hex keys, for instance. I must be stronger than I thought!

Pete
Sounds like you had a faulty part. I doubt that you could have twisted
it off otherwise. Now, getting it out is going to be a thorny issue.

One of the first things that come to mind is to use a Dremel tool with
a cut-off wheel attachement to carefully grind a slot across the
exposed end of the 2mm portion extending out of the piece and then use
a flat blade screwdriver to back it out.

Another is to use a brand new set of high quality vise grips so that
the biting edge is new and sharp. 2mm isn't much to grip but it might
be possible.

The next obvious method is using a bolt extractor, but this will
probably require a drill press and some sort of jig to hold the head
in position. You might be able to use a hand held drill to drill the
hole for the extractor if you use a Dremel and grind a cross centered
on the exposed broken end. The center of the cross will act a a guide
to center the bit for the hole. If it looks like this isn't going to
work, or you are not mechanically inclined with small parts and
precise work, I think taking the head to a machine shop or possibly
shipping it back to AP is in order. Give AP a call on Monday and see
what they say.

In the meantime, I can't see why you can't use the mount.

Rick.


Peter Santangeli
 

Good suggestion. I was thinking about something like this.

Pete

--- In ap-gto@..., kawasaki99@... wrote:

Hello Strong Man,
Local hardware store ought to sell an (easy-out)
which is a
sort of a left hand thread tap and the proper size pilot drill for the
easy-out. If it's only hand tight to ought to come out. Have an
assistant hold a
vacuum cleaner hose close to broken screw while drilling the pilot
hole to
capture any small chips. A small center drill or sharp prick punch
may be necessary
to ensure the pilot drill puts the hole close to the true center of
the
broken screw. Sounds like a lot but it's generally easy.



**************************************See AOL's top rated recipes
(http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004)




Gregory Nottingham <gnpnotti@...>
 

My experience using Eazy Outs on exhaust studs on cylinder heads has
not been good. I know that the telescope situation is different.
What is the diameter of screw? As long as you are sure that screw
isn't cross-threaded, you should be alright but every-time I've used
one, I have gone in with the assumption that I will have to take the
head to a machine shop to drill out the stud and the broken, hardened
steel Easy Out.
Good luck.
Greg

On Dec 15, 2007, at 2:01, Peter Santangeli wrote:


Good suggestion. I was thinking about something like this.

Pete

--- In ap-gto@..., kawasaki99@... wrote:

Hello Strong Man,
Local hardware store ought to sell an (easy-out)
which is a
sort of a left hand thread tap and the proper size pilot drill
for the
easy-out. If it's only hand tight to ought to come out. Have an
assistant hold a
vacuum cleaner hose close to broken screw while drilling the pilot
hole to
capture any small chips. A small center drill or sharp prick punch
may be necessary
to ensure the pilot drill puts the hole close to the true center of
the
broken screw. Sounds like a lot but it's generally easy.



**************************************See AOL's top rated recipes
(http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004)





Bob Olson <r.olson@...>
 

Hi Pete,

Be very careful that the pilot drill doesn't wander off the hard clutch screw and into the soft aluminium casting. I believe the clutch screw is stainless steel and it might work harden when it is being drilled. You might want to consider having a machine shop do the job.

I think that you can use the mount as it is, so you might want to wait until the AP folks get back from their Christmas holidays, and then check with them.

Bob


Peter Santangeli
 

Maybe a picture is indeed worth 1000 words... Here is a shot of the
broken knob:

http://www.santangeli.net/knob.jpg

As you can see, the device is actually a hollow threaded aluminum tube
with the knob part screwed into it. The walls of the tube are not that
thick, but should take quite a bit of torque without breaking. All I
can assume is that the knob got banged longitudinally somehow, and the
tube broke.

The rest of the tube (with the "outer" thread) is unfortunately still
in the mount.

Pete

--- In ap-gto@..., Gregory Nottingham <gnpnotti@...> wrote:

My experience using Eazy Outs on exhaust studs on cylinder heads has
not been good. I know that the telescope situation is different.
What is the diameter of screw? As long as you are sure that screw
isn't cross-threaded, you should be alright but every-time I've used
one, I have gone in with the assumption that I will have to take the
head to a machine shop to drill out the stud and the broken, hardened
steel Easy Out.
Good luck.
Greg
On Dec 15, 2007, at 2:01, Peter Santangeli wrote:


Good suggestion. I was thinking about something like this.

Pete

--- In ap-gto@..., kawasaki99@ wrote:

Hello Strong Man,
Local hardware store ought to sell an (easy-out)
which is a
sort of a left hand thread tap and the proper size pilot drill
for the
easy-out. If it's only hand tight to ought to come out. Have an
assistant hold a
vacuum cleaner hose close to broken screw while drilling the pilot
hole to
capture any small chips. A small center drill or sharp prick punch
may be necessary
to ensure the pilot drill puts the hole close to the true center of
the
broken screw. Sounds like a lot but it's generally easy.



**************************************See AOL's top rated recipes
(http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004)








Joe Zeglinski
 

Hi Pete,

If you do decide trying a "screw extractor", to get the rest of it out, it
might be obvious, but I will state it here anyway.

Remove one of the other clutch screws, using a good one to determine how
much remains broken inside. That will give you the maximum depth you can go
with a pilot drill hole, for the extractor - obviously less depth is safer.

I suspect, that it will not take very much torque at all to ease out the
broken stub. Mere friction alone might almost ease it out since it wasn't
really screwed in tight.

Joe

----- Original Message -----
From: "Peter Santangeli" <peter@...>
To: <ap-gto@...>
Sent: Saturday, December 15, 2007 12:27 PM
Subject: [ap-gto] Re: Broken clutch knob



Maybe a picture is indeed worth 1000 words... Here is a shot of the
broken knob:

http://www.santangeli.net/knob.jpg

As you can see, the device is actually a hollow threaded aluminum tube
with the knob part screwed into it. The walls of the tube are not that
thick, but should take quite a bit of torque without breaking. All I
can assume is that the knob got banged longitudinally somehow, and the
tube broke.

The rest of the tube (with the "outer" thread) is unfortunately still
in the mount.

Pete


observe_m13
 

I am totally confused. If this is the problem, toss it in the garbage
and order a new one from AP on Monday.

I thought you were talking about the mount having a problem with a
broken off threaded section in the mount itself. That is serious and
is what a picture of would be worth a 1000 words.

Rick.


--- In ap-gto@..., "Peter Santangeli" <peter@...> wrote:


Maybe a picture is indeed worth 1000 words... Here is a shot of the
broken knob:

http://www.santangeli.net/knob.jpg

As you can see, the device is actually a hollow threaded aluminum tube
with the knob part screwed into it. The walls of the tube are not that
thick, but should take quite a bit of torque without breaking. All I
can assume is that the knob got banged longitudinally somehow, and the
tube broke.

The rest of the tube (with the "outer" thread) is unfortunately still
in the mount.

Pete


--- In ap-gto@..., Gregory Nottingham <gnpnotti@> wrote:

My experience using Eazy Outs on exhaust studs on cylinder heads has
not been good. I know that the telescope situation is different.
What is the diameter of screw? As long as you are sure that screw
isn't cross-threaded, you should be alright but every-time I've used
one, I have gone in with the assumption that I will have to take the
head to a machine shop to drill out the stud and the broken,
hardened
steel Easy Out.
Good luck.
Greg
On Dec 15, 2007, at 2:01, Peter Santangeli wrote:


Good suggestion. I was thinking about something like this.

Pete

--- In ap-gto@..., kawasaki99@ wrote:

Hello Strong Man,
Local hardware store ought to sell an (easy-out)
which is a
sort of a left hand thread tap and the proper size pilot drill
for the
easy-out. If it's only hand tight to ought to come out. Have an
assistant hold a
vacuum cleaner hose close to broken screw while drilling the pilot
hole to
capture any small chips. A small center drill or sharp prick punch
may be necessary
to ensure the pilot drill puts the hole close to the true
center of
the
broken screw. Sounds like a lot but it's generally easy.



**************************************See AOL's top rated recipes
(http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004)


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


observe_m13
 

Stainless steel is notoriously difficult to drill. It will be hard,
and compared to the surrounding aluminum it will be extremely hard.
That is why an "easy-out" is anything but in this situation. Drilling
a small hole in the exact center of a small diameter stainless bolt
stub for a very small easy out is going to be extremely difficult and
require precise alignments, centering, and a great deal of care. If
this is the case, I would definitely leave it to the professionals.

Rick.

--- In ap-gto@..., "Bob Olson" <r.olson@...> wrote:

Hi Pete,

Be very careful that the pilot drill doesn't wander off the hard
clutch screw and into the soft aluminium casting. I believe the
clutch screw is stainless steel and it might work harden when it is
being drilled. You might want to consider having a machine shop do
the job.

I think that you can use the mount as it is, so you might want to
wait until the AP folks get back from their Christmas holidays, and
then check with them.

Bob

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Peter Santangeli
 

Indeed the problem is bad... that part I'm holding is supposed to be
at least 3/4 of an inch long. The rest is in the mount.

Pete

--- In ap-gto@..., "Rick K" <JunkMailGoesHere@...> wrote:

I am totally confused. If this is the problem, toss it in the garbage
and order a new one from AP on Monday.

I thought you were talking about the mount having a problem with a
broken off threaded section in the mount itself. That is serious and
is what a picture of would be worth a 1000 words.

Rick.


--- In ap-gto@..., "Peter Santangeli" <peter@> wrote:


Maybe a picture is indeed worth 1000 words... Here is a shot of the
broken knob:

http://www.santangeli.net/knob.jpg

As you can see, the device is actually a hollow threaded aluminum tube
with the knob part screwed into it. The walls of the tube are not that
thick, but should take quite a bit of torque without breaking. All I
can assume is that the knob got banged longitudinally somehow, and the
tube broke.

The rest of the tube (with the "outer" thread) is unfortunately still
in the mount.

Pete


--- In ap-gto@..., Gregory Nottingham <gnpnotti@> wrote:

My experience using Eazy Outs on exhaust studs on cylinder heads
has
not been good. I know that the telescope situation is different.
What is the diameter of screw? As long as you are sure that screw
isn't cross-threaded, you should be alright but every-time I've
used
one, I have gone in with the assumption that I will have to take
the
head to a machine shop to drill out the stud and the broken,
hardened
steel Easy Out.
Good luck.
Greg
On Dec 15, 2007, at 2:01, Peter Santangeli wrote:


Good suggestion. I was thinking about something like this.

Pete

--- In ap-gto@..., kawasaki99@ wrote:

Hello Strong Man,
Local hardware store ought to sell an (easy-out)
which is a
sort of a left hand thread tap and the proper size pilot drill
for the
easy-out. If it's only hand tight to ought to come out. Have an
assistant hold a
vacuum cleaner hose close to broken screw while drilling the
pilot
hole to
capture any small chips. A small center drill or sharp prick
punch
may be necessary
to ensure the pilot drill puts the hole close to the true
center of
the
broken screw. Sounds like a lot but it's generally easy.



**************************************See AOL's top rated
recipes
(http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004)






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Dean S
 

I would take it to a shop that can do bolt extractions. I use a guy that has a wire EDM (??) machine I think it is called and he burns them out. But this is with steel cutter heads so not sure if doing this in alum is ok but they would know. I would not want to risk screwing up my mount doing it myself.

You might also try to see if it by chance is a already loose by gluing something to it and see if it will turn.

Good luck.

----- Original Message -----
From: "Peter Santangeli" <peter@...>
To: <ap-gto@...>
Sent: Saturday, December 15, 2007 5:13 PM
Subject: [ap-gto] Re: Broken clutch knob



Indeed the problem is bad... that part I'm holding is supposed to be
at least 3/4 of an inch long. The rest is in the mount.

Pete

--- In ap-gto@..., "Rick K" <JunkMailGoesHere@...> wrote:

I am totally confused. If this is the problem, toss it in the garbage
and order a new one from AP on Monday.

I thought you were talking about the mount having a problem with a
broken off threaded section in the mount itself. That is serious and
is what a picture of would be worth a 1000 words.

Rick.


--- In ap-gto@..., "Peter Santangeli" <peter@> wrote:


Maybe a picture is indeed worth 1000 words... Here is a shot of the
broken knob:

http://www.santangeli.net/knob.jpg

As you can see, the device is actually a hollow threaded aluminum tube
with the knob part screwed into it. The walls of the tube are not that
thick, but should take quite a bit of torque without breaking. All I
can assume is that the knob got banged longitudinally somehow, and the
tube broke.

The rest of the tube (with the "outer" thread) is unfortunately still
in the mount.

Pete


--- In ap-gto@..., Gregory Nottingham <gnpnotti@> wrote:

My experience using Eazy Outs on exhaust studs on cylinder heads
has
not been good. I know that the telescope situation is different.
What is the diameter of screw? As long as you are sure that screw
isn't cross-threaded, you should be alright but every-time I've
used
one, I have gone in with the assumption that I will have to take
the
head to a machine shop to drill out the stud and the broken,
hardened
steel Easy Out.
Good luck.
Greg
On Dec 15, 2007, at 2:01, Peter Santangeli wrote:


Good suggestion. I was thinking about something like this.

Pete

--- In ap-gto@..., kawasaki99@ wrote:

Hello Strong Man,
Local hardware store ought to sell an (easy-out)
which is a
sort of a left hand thread tap and the proper size pilot drill
for the
easy-out. If it's only hand tight to ought to come out. Have an
assistant hold a
vacuum cleaner hose close to broken screw while drilling the
pilot
hole to
capture any small chips. A small center drill or sharp prick
punch
may be necessary
to ensure the pilot drill puts the hole close to the true
center of
the
broken screw. Sounds like a lot but it's generally easy.



**************************************See AOL's top rated
recipes
(http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004)








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Bryon Schwartz <bryonnmissy@...>
 

If the screw part that is still in the mount is not stripped or
jammed into the thread wall maybe try crazy glueing, or some other
strong epoxy, the knob back onto the bolt and let it set for maybe a
day and then try twisting it out SLOWLY. This might work ONLY if the
remaining part of the bolt is not jammed or stripped into the screw
walls.

Just my $.02 and can't hurt to try. The only thing that could happen
is the bolt will shear again at the point where you glued it.

Bryon

--- In ap-gto@..., "Peter Santangeli" <peter@...> wrote:


Indeed the problem is bad... that part I'm holding is supposed to be
at least 3/4 of an inch long. The rest is in the mount.

Pete


steve_dashiell <dashiellyg1@...>
 

The risk with this approach is that if any of the glue gets into the
threads of the broken off stub, it could end up acting like a thread
locker, making the broken piece difficult to remove at all, even with
proper equipment.

Steve

--- In ap-gto@..., "Bryon Schwartz" <bryonnmissy@...> wrote:


If the screw part that is still in the mount is not stripped or
jammed into the thread wall maybe try crazy glueing, or some other
strong epoxy, the knob back onto the bolt and let it set for maybe a
day and then try twisting it out SLOWLY. This might work ONLY if the
remaining part of the bolt is not jammed or stripped into the screw
walls.

Just my $.02 and can't hurt to try. The only thing that could happen
is the bolt will shear again at the point where you glued it.

Bryon

--- In ap-gto@..., "Peter Santangeli" <peter@> wrote:


Indeed the problem is bad... that part I'm holding is supposed to be
at least 3/4 of an inch long. The rest is in the mount.

Pete


MrGrytt
 

--- In ap-gto@..., "Peter Santangeli" <peter@...> wrote:


Sadly, while setting up today in my yard, I went to tighten one of
my RA clutch knobs on my AP900 and it snapped off in my hand. It
broke off about 5mm down, so that I can just see about 2 mm of the
bolt inside of it. The rest of the shaft is no doubt stuck down in
the hole it screws into.
There are a number of ways to tackle this if you want to avoid
letting a machine shop or AP do it.
Based on what you've described I can tell you how I would go
about things, given the described problem, and also assuming that the
end of the bolt can't/shouldn't be exceptionally tight in the threaded
hole. Hopefully no more than hand tight.
Take a small center-punch and carefully try to place a small
center-punch mark in the center of the broken shaft. Then take a very
small drill bit (about 1/16") and carefully and slowly drill a pilot
hole through the center-punch mark. Go slowly and carefully so you
don't break the drill bit. Drill to whatever depth makes sense, based
on the following step.
Get, buy, rent, a set of EZ-outs. Drill the recommended size
larger hole for the selected size EZ-out, by drilling into the smaller
pilot hole. Finally, use the EZ-out to extract the broken bolt, and
be careful not to break the EX-out.
If a decent amount of force won't back it out then go with a
larger size hole and larger EZ-out, if possible, before using more
force than the smaller tools will handle.


A couple of questions...

Is there a way for me to get the shaft out?
Hopefully.

Can I order a replacement?
Of course.

Am I stuck sending my RA assembly back to AP :-(
Not necessarily.

Any danger of me using it this way until a convenient time?
I would suspect there's no danger at all in using it.

Harvey


Mark Galiyano Jr <mgjr@...>
 

You can protect the threads from the glue by putting wax at the interface of the bolt and threads. Most glues will not adhear to wax and it forms a fairly good barrier. The thing that troubles me is that enough force was present to shear the bolt. I am not sure this can be done without an easy out. I do think and easy out will work though. Most of us that have had trouble with them were trying to get out wrench-tightened bolt remains, not hand tightened.

Best of luck,
Mark

----- Original Message -----
From: steve_dashiell
To: ap-gto@...
Sent: Saturday, December 15, 2007 8:17 PM
Subject: [ap-gto] Re: Broken clutch knob


The risk with this approach is that if any of the glue gets into the
threads of the broken off stub, it could end up acting like a thread
locker, making the broken piece difficult to remove at all, even with
proper equipment.

Steve

--- In ap-gto@..., "Bryon Schwartz" <bryonnmissy@...> wrote:
>
>
> If the screw part that is still in the mount is not stripped or
> jammed into the thread wall maybe try crazy glueing, or some other
> strong epoxy, the knob back onto the bolt and let it set for maybe a
> day and then try twisting it out SLOWLY. This might work ONLY if the
> remaining part of the bolt is not jammed or stripped into the screw
> walls.
>
> Just my $.02 and can't hurt to try. The only thing that could happen
> is the bolt will shear again at the point where you glued it.
>
> Bryon
>
> --- In ap-gto@..., "Peter Santangeli" <peter@> wrote:
> >
> >
> > Indeed the problem is bad... that part I'm holding is supposed to be
> > at least 3/4 of an inch long. The rest is in the mount.
> >
> > Pete
> >
>


Mlooker
 

Pete,
If the hole is not blind meaning the broken off blot is not rammed in tight (maybe use a pick and see if it moves). The easiest way I've found to extract a bolt is to use a left hand drill bit. Snap On sells a 5 piece set, just reverse your drill and usually the second you touch the broken bolt it spins right out.

Sometimes you need to use a center punch to create a starting point but you must determine that with your situation.

Tom

----- Original Message -----
From: Peter Santangeli
To: ap-gto@...
Sent: Saturday, December 15, 2007 2:13 PM
Subject: [ap-gto] Re: Broken clutch knob



Indeed the problem is bad... that part I'm holding is supposed to be
at least 3/4 of an inch long. The rest is in the mount.

Pete

--- In ap-gto@..., "Rick K" <JunkMailGoesHere@...> wrote:
>
> I am totally confused. If this is the problem, toss it in the garbage
> and order a new one from AP on Monday.
>
> I thought you were talking about the mount having a problem with a
> broken off threaded section in the mount itself. That is serious and
> is what a picture of would be worth a 1000 words.
>
> Rick.
>
>
> --- In ap-gto@..., "Peter Santangeli" <peter@> wrote:
> >
> >
> > Maybe a picture is indeed worth 1000 words... Here is a shot of the
> > broken knob:
> >
> > http://www.santangeli.net/knob.jpg
> >
> > As you can see, the device is actually a hollow threaded aluminum tube
> > with the knob part screwed into it. The walls of the tube are not that
> > thick, but should take quite a bit of torque without breaking. All I
> > can assume is that the knob got banged longitudinally somehow, and the
> > tube broke.
> >
> > The rest of the tube (with the "outer" thread) is unfortunately still
> > in the mount.
> >
> > Pete
> >
> >
> > --- In ap-gto@..., Gregory Nottingham <gnpnotti@> wrote:
> > >
> > > My experience using Eazy Outs on exhaust studs on cylinder heads
has
> > > not been good. I know that the telescope situation is different.
> > > What is the diameter of screw? As long as you are sure that screw
> > > isn't cross-threaded, you should be alright but every-time I've
used
> > > one, I have gone in with the assumption that I will have to take
the
> > > head to a machine shop to drill out the stud and the broken,
> hardened
> > > steel Easy Out.
> > > Good luck.
> > > Greg
> > > On Dec 15, 2007, at 2:01, Peter Santangeli wrote:
> > >
> > > >
> > > > Good suggestion. I was thinking about something like this.
> > > >
> > > > Pete
> > > >
> > > > --- In ap-gto@..., kawasaki99@ wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > Hello Strong Man,
> > > > > Local hardware store ought to sell an (easy-out)
> > > > which is a
> > > > > sort of a left hand thread tap and the proper size pilot drill
> > > > for the
> > > > > easy-out. If it's only hand tight to ought to come out. Have an
> > > > assistant hold a
> > > > > vacuum cleaner hose close to broken screw while drilling the
pilot
> > > > hole to
> > > > > capture any small chips. A small center drill or sharp prick
punch
> > > > may be necessary
> > > > > to ensure the pilot drill puts the hole close to the true
> center of
> > > > the
> > > > > broken screw. Sounds like a lot but it's generally easy.
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > **************************************See AOL's top rated
recipes
> > > > >
(http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004)
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
>


steve_dashiell <dashiellyg1@...>
 

Since the top of the broken stud is 3 mm down in the threaded hole, if
glue of any sort is put on top of it and the other piece is threaded
in, any excess glue will be forced out of the space between the two
broken pieces and into the threads both above and below the break,
since there will be no where else the excess can go. I seriously
doubt that there is anything that can be done to seal the threads
adequately to prevent this, since the glue is relatively
incompressible. If the amount of glue used is so small that there is
no excess to squeeze out, it might work, but the proper amount is
probably difficult to estimate.

Steve

--- In ap-gto@..., "Mark Galiyano Jr" <mgjr@...> wrote:

You can protect the threads from the glue by putting wax at the
interface of the bolt and threads. Most glues will not adhear to wax
and it forms a fairly good barrier. The thing that troubles me is that
enough force was present to shear the bolt. I am not sure this can be
done without an easy out. I do think and easy out will work though.
Most of us that have had trouble with them were trying to get out
wrench-tightened bolt remains, not hand tightened.

Best of luck,
Mark

----- Original Message -----
From: steve_dashiell
To: ap-gto@...
Sent: Saturday, December 15, 2007 8:17 PM
Subject: [ap-gto] Re: Broken clutch knob


The risk with this approach is that if any of the glue gets into the
threads of the broken off stub, it could end up acting like a thread
locker, making the broken piece difficult to remove at all, even with
proper equipment.

Steve

--- In ap-gto@..., "Bryon Schwartz" <bryonnmissy@> wrote:
>
>
> If the screw part that is still in the mount is not stripped or
> jammed into the thread wall maybe try crazy glueing, or some other
> strong epoxy, the knob back onto the bolt and let it set for
maybe a
> day and then try twisting it out SLOWLY. This might work ONLY if
the
> remaining part of the bolt is not jammed or stripped into the screw
> walls.
>
> Just my $.02 and can't hurt to try. The only thing that could
happen
> is the bolt will shear again at the point where you glued it.
>
> Bryon
>
> --- In ap-gto@..., "Peter Santangeli" <peter@> wrote:
> >
> >
> > Indeed the problem is bad... that part I'm holding is supposed
to be
> > at least 3/4 of an inch long. The rest is in the mount.
> >
> > Pete
> >
>





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Dean S
 

Sorry I mentioned the glue.

I had a similar broke bolt on a piece of equipement, and after I got all the ezz-outs and bits lined up, one of my guys found the bolt was actually loose, even though it had broke off, and he got it out using the glue method. But it was a larger bolt that allowed more surface contact and he used a thick epoxy.

I have not had great luck drilling stainless, if that is what the bolt is. With a high dollar mount, I would take it to someone that has the right tools to do it.

Good luck,
Dean

----- Original Message -----
From: "steve_dashiell" <dashiellyg1@...>
To: <ap-gto@...>
Sent: Saturday, December 15, 2007 10:56 PM
Subject: [ap-gto] Re: Broken clutch knob


Since the top of the broken stud is 3 mm down in the threaded hole, if
glue of any sort is put on top of it and the other piece is threaded
in, any excess glue will be forced out of the space between the two
broken pieces and into the threads both above and below the break,
since there will be no where else the excess can go. I seriously
doubt that there is anything that can be done to seal the threads
adequately to prevent this, since the glue is relatively
incompressible. If the amount of glue used is so small that there is
no excess to squeeze out, it might work, but the proper amount is
probably difficult to estimate.

Steve

--- In ap-gto@..., "Mark Galiyano Jr" <mgjr@...> wrote:

You can protect the threads from the glue by putting wax at the
interface of the bolt and threads. Most glues will not adhear to wax
and it forms a fairly good barrier. The thing that troubles me is that
enough force was present to shear the bolt. I am not sure this can be
done without an easy out. I do think and easy out will work though.
Most of us that have had trouble with them were trying to get out
wrench-tightened bolt remains, not hand tightened.

Best of luck,
Mark

----- Original Message -----
From: steve_dashiell
To: ap-gto@...
Sent: Saturday, December 15, 2007 8:17 PM
Subject: [ap-gto] Re: Broken clutch knob


The risk with this approach is that if any of the glue gets into the
threads of the broken off stub, it could end up acting like a thread
locker, making the broken piece difficult to remove at all, even with
proper equipment.

Steve

--- In ap-gto@..., "Bryon Schwartz" <bryonnmissy@> wrote:
>
>
> If the screw part that is still in the mount is not stripped or
> jammed into the thread wall maybe try crazy glueing, or some other
> strong epoxy, the knob back onto the bolt and let it set for
maybe a
> day and then try twisting it out SLOWLY. This might work ONLY if
the
> remaining part of the bolt is not jammed or stripped into the screw
> walls.
>
> Just my $.02 and can't hurt to try. The only thing that could
happen
> is the bolt will shear again at the point where you glued it.
>
> Bryon
>
> --- In ap-gto@..., "Peter Santangeli" <peter@> wrote:
> >
> >
> > Indeed the problem is bad... that part I'm holding is supposed
to be
> > at least 3/4 of an inch long. The rest is in the mount.
> >
> > Pete
> >
>








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