Hi, If used around an observatory, I think it should be mounted closer to the ground, or at most half way up, and as far away as possible from where you might be standing, or your work table & compute

Sorry, for MY confusion, Ray. A bit muddle-headed this morning. Of course APCC is “PC software”. The difference in CP3 versus CP4 firmware, in this regard, had me briefly woolly-headed. My concern was

Ray, I have been away from the APCC for quite a while. Please remind me - Does the APCC firmware itself, check whether it is communicating with a CP3, CP4, or CP5 – and handles the “software mode” Lim

John, Hope you do have a read through. Forgot to mention that the heater doesn’t usually cycle itself on, in the daytime, since the sun warms up the tarp’s air pocket enough by itself, to keep any moi

Hi John, No need to “WASTE ... power and computer lifetime” keeping your computers and heater running, as well as having to keep track of “humidity readings” yourself. Have a look in this group’s AP-G

Hi Chris, You should at least run Win-10-> Admin Tools-> Windows Memory Diagnostic, and not just the default quick 2 minute one, but specify several more passes, run all day if necessary, according to

#APCC

Thanks Greg, That second link for the HOODMAN Loupe is what I had been considering for some years. However, reaching for any Keypad button, while being that close with the eyes locked onto the hooded

Thanks Chris, Definitely will give that a try. I considered devising something like a “periscope or oscilloscope viewing eye shield”, to peer right at the display. A cloth hood over my head, like a bo

Mike, I would add ... besides software, will there be a Kit, or at least instructions, to Upgrade (or retro-fit) that terribly dim Keypad display module with a more readable OLED one, so we can actual

Shailesh, What is your scope’s Latitude? As you get closer to the equator, attaching the scope to the dovetail plate with its opened rings, begins to get dicey. It only becomes ideal at higher than LA

Hi Karen, Now I see ... in the KIT, those are actually all, in fact, desert “Dust Caps”, but I like to use them to keep any contaminants, wet or dry, off the pins. Makes sense now. I mistook the rubbe

Hi Mike, If anyone still has the original CP4 released WHITE case – consider drilling the two bottom corner holes, as Tony (a.k.a. Harley-Davidson) shows in his CP4 video. My original, like yours, i.e

Question to the group. Can anyone think of a logical reason to plug “drainage holes” with those rubber cones? Do we really want to make sure that any dew or other source of moisture leaking into the c

Good idea about using extractor bits, if the plugs are not “mushed” inside .. But, if the AP-900/1200 Delrin plugs are pushed in so far, that they “mushroom-head” into the space beyond the threads, th

I agree, Bryan. If I were to go with a dual lift PT3, and there was a possibility of any cold weather seizing problem, I would be concerned about one of the two piers, lagging behind its mate, unless

Hi Mike, I ordered the plastic caps set for mine. They really should come standard with any CPx controller, and the metal ones offered as a valuable option. Two things to keep in mind about sourcing t

Thanks Chris, For your link to Linak disti’s – I was quite pleasantly surprised to find that LINAK-Canada was so handy, only a couple of miles away from me in Toronto. One thing that concerns me is th

Hi Shailesh, I see good suggestions about stable, and also safe Park positions for stowing. However, I am somewhat concerned about stowing the telescope at other than Park-2 or Park-3. I assume there

David, I once had such “funny slew stuff” suddenly happening with my Keypad and AP-1200 – but with a new CP4, a few years ago. The previous old CP3 worked perfectly when hooked back up to either mount

#ASCOM_V2_Driver

Ray, Just to be clear, I think that was a user resettable option checkbox, so should confirm it anyway in the AP ASCOM driver. Joe

#ASCOM_V2_Driver