Date   

Re: AP Telescope Command Center

Anthony Ayiomamitis <anthony@...>
 

PS. Lots of photos here: http://www.iceinspace.com.au/forum/showthread.php?p=515405

O/H Anthony Ayiomamitis :

Folks,

I am going by shear memory but I seem to recall a comment by Rolando and/or Ray that a new telescope command center would be introduced at AIC at the end of October. Since both the end of October and AIC have arrived, I was wondering if someone has seen or heard something?

One thread I saw included SBIG's new ST-8300M and ST-8300MC cameras at the impressive price of $1995. However, it seems to be a single chip camera (ie. no guide chip) and will require the purchase of both a new filter wheel and filters specific to this camera.

I also saw a photo of the double AP cannons on display ... speaking of cannons, it is encouraging to see a push to larger-aperture instruments including a new 300mm astrograph from Ceravalo also on display at AIC as well a 400mm astrograph and 400mm ODK from Orion Optics UK (a friend alerted me to the latter two).

Most interesting times ahead!

Anthony.


AP Telescope Command Center

Anthony Ayiomamitis <anthony@...>
 

Folks,

I am going by shear memory but I seem to recall a comment by Rolando and/or Ray that a new telescope command center would be introduced at AIC at the end of October. Since both the end of October and AIC have arrived, I was wondering if someone has seen or heard something?

One thread I saw included SBIG's new ST-8300M and ST-8300MC cameras at the impressive price of $1995. However, it seems to be a single chip camera (ie. no guide chip) and will require the purchase of both a new filter wheel and filters specific to this camera.

I also saw a photo of the double AP cannons on display ... speaking of cannons, it is encouraging to see a push to larger-aperture instruments including a new 300mm astrograph from Ceravalo also on display at AIC as well a 400mm astrograph and 400mm ODK from Orion Optics UK (a friend alerted me to the latter two).

Most interesting times ahead!

Anthony.


Re: AP-1200 GTO POLAR Scope Cover Cap

Frank S Barnes III
 

Hi Joe,

Sorry for the late reply as I am at AIC2009. I haven't tried it
on an AP900 as I don't have access to one, so I don't know if it would
fit or not.



On 30 Oct 2009 14:44:34 -0000, ap-gto@... wrote:
1b. Re: AP-1200 GTO POLAR Scope Cover Cap
Posted by: "Joseph Zeglinski" J.Zeglinski@... astrojaz
Date: Thu Oct 29, 2009 10:16 am ((PDT))

Thanks Frank,

Nice job on the RA/PAS cover.
Did you ever get a chance to try it yourself, on an AP-900, just to confirm
for everyone, whether it would fit?
I suspect the cap's slight taper would block it from reaching the standard
RA cap threads (below the current straight walled RA rim).

Joe

----- Original Message -----
From: "Frank S Barnes III" <SBarnes@...>
To: <ap-gto@...>
Sent: Thursday, October 29, 2009 11:27 AM
Subject: [ap-gto] Re: AP-1200 GTO POLAR Scope Cover Cap


Hi Joe,

The pictures I sent to Howard, that he posted, were for an
AP1200GTO which is what I have. That is what my Polar scope cover was
made for.

Clear Skies ......

Klaatu Barada Nikto ...

Frank S (Sandy) Barnes III
TwinOaks Observatory
http://www.skyimager.com
SBarnes@...


Re: AP400 question

Ben Lutch
 

I still use an AP400 for imaging, always < 550mm focal length. Not sure of
the P-2-V, but it works beautifully with a Traveler or FSQ 106. I don't
think my images with those scopes are mount-limited by the AP400.

When I get a clear night and some sleep, I'll do the PEC and report back.
b

On Fri, Oct 23, 2009 at 8:22 AM, Pawel T. Lancucki <
pawel.lancucki@...> wrote:




Well, this is not a Skywatcher group ;-)

I would expect that at least at the time of the production, these mounts
would have some specs which they would adhere to - like at the moment the
larger cousins (AP900, AP1200 and Mach-1).

Anyone still using AP400 for imaging?

Best regards

Pawel Lancucki



Re: oxidation at RS 232 connector - AP 1200

Bob Olson <r.olson@...>
 

Hi Werner,

Try a dab of clear nail polish. Easy, cheap and no heat.

Bob


Re: oxidation at RS 232 connector - AP 1200

Gedas
 

If you look at the connector pins from the outside you will see plastic insulation that is used to hold the pins in place. It is a thermoplastic and will deform if you heat the metal shell for too long.

It will look like this:

http://www.vpi.us/cgi-bin/vpi/db9-sl-mf.html

Gedas,

Gallery at http://gedas.me

----- Original Message -----
From: "Werner" <werner.pribil@...>
To: <ap-gto@...>
Sent: Saturday, October 31, 2009 5:38 PM
Subject: [ap-gto] Re: oxidation at RS 232 connector - AP 1200


Hello Gedas,

Which plastic insulation between the pins do you mean?

Werner


--- In ap-gto@..., "Gedas" <w8bya@...> wrote:

Just be careful not to overheat the metal shell as this will melt the
plastic insulation between pins.

Gedas,

Gallery at http://gedas.me


----- Original Message -----
From: "Werner" <werner.pribil@...>
To: <ap-gto@...>
Sent: Saturday, October 31, 2009 3:54 PM
Subject: [ap-gto] Re: oxidation at RS 232 connector - AP 1200


Hello Al

Thank you very much for this tip. I did not think about this solution,
because the world of electronics is not my area.
So I will ask a fiend to help me to rapair the connector. I know he has
experiences with soldering.
When we have done our job we will empty a beer an I will think of you. ;-)

Werner


--- In ap-gto@..., "skygazeral" <skygazeral@> wrote:


Clean off the oxidation with a small jeweller's file or a Dremel tool.
Using a hot soldering iron with a small tip apply electronic solder to
the bad spot. Do not use plumbers solder. Make sure it flows on. While
still hot, wipe in one direction with a damp cloth, to get all excess
solder off and leave a smooth coating. You can reheat & rewipe if
necessary. This will leave a nice coating of "tin" that will not corrode
due to simple moisture.

If you have never done this before, you can practice first on a food tin
(empty & with no label of course). Unfortunately, this is not a good
excuse to empty a beer can because they are aluminum & wont solder.

Al

--- In ap-gto@..., "Werner" <werner.pribil@> wrote:









--- In ap-gto@..., chris1011@ wrote:

In a message dated 10/28/2009 3:31:47 PM Central Daylight Time,
werner.pribil@ writes:


Although this oxidation occurs where the surface was scratched.
You have basically scratched off the coating on the steel metal.
Steel will
oxidize.

Rolando


Hello Rolando!

Yes, I know and I am annoyed about it !!
The question is now, what shall I do. Either I do nothing and wait
till the oxidation becomes bigger every year or I protect it with some
new coating to stop the oxidation. Do you have a tip how I can prevent
that the oxidation goes on? I have searched for a while but I did not
find a good (permanent) coating.

Werner



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Re: oxidation at RS 232 connector - AP 1200

werner.pribil
 

Hello Gedas,

Which plastic insulation between the pins do you mean?

Werner

--- In ap-gto@..., "Gedas" <w8bya@...> wrote:

Just be careful not to overheat the metal shell as this will melt the
plastic insulation between pins.

Gedas,

Gallery at http://gedas.me


----- Original Message -----
From: "Werner" <werner.pribil@...>
To: <ap-gto@...>
Sent: Saturday, October 31, 2009 3:54 PM
Subject: [ap-gto] Re: oxidation at RS 232 connector - AP 1200


Hello Al

Thank you very much for this tip. I did not think about this solution,
because the world of electronics is not my area.
So I will ask a fiend to help me to rapair the connector. I know he has
experiences with soldering.
When we have done our job we will empty a beer an I will think of you. ;-)

Werner


--- In ap-gto@..., "skygazeral" <skygazeral@> wrote:


Clean off the oxidation with a small jeweller's file or a Dremel tool.
Using a hot soldering iron with a small tip apply electronic solder to
the bad spot. Do not use plumbers solder. Make sure it flows on. While
still hot, wipe in one direction with a damp cloth, to get all excess
solder off and leave a smooth coating. You can reheat & rewipe if
necessary. This will leave a nice coating of "tin" that will not corrode
due to simple moisture.

If you have never done this before, you can practice first on a food tin
(empty & with no label of course). Unfortunately, this is not a good
excuse to empty a beer can because they are aluminum & wont solder.

Al

--- In ap-gto@..., "Werner" <werner.pribil@> wrote:









--- In ap-gto@..., chris1011@ wrote:

In a message dated 10/28/2009 3:31:47 PM Central Daylight Time,
werner.pribil@ writes:


Although this oxidation occurs where the surface was scratched.
You have basically scratched off the coating on the steel metal.
Steel will
oxidize.

Rolando



Hello Rolando!

Yes, I know and I am annoyed about it !!
The question is now, what shall I do. Either I do nothing and wait
till the oxidation becomes bigger every year or I protect it with some
new coating to stop the oxidation. Do you have a tip how I can prevent
that the oxidation goes on? I have searched for a while but I did not
find a good (permanent) coating.

Werner



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Re: oxidation at RS 232 connector - AP 1200

Gedas
 

Just be careful not to overheat the metal shell as this will melt the plastic insulation between pins.

Gedas,

Gallery at http://gedas.me

----- Original Message -----
From: "Werner" <werner.pribil@...>
To: <ap-gto@...>
Sent: Saturday, October 31, 2009 3:54 PM
Subject: [ap-gto] Re: oxidation at RS 232 connector - AP 1200


Hello Al

Thank you very much for this tip. I did not think about this solution, because the world of electronics is not my area.
So I will ask a fiend to help me to rapair the connector. I know he has experiences with soldering.
When we have done our job we will empty a beer an I will think of you. ;-)

Werner


--- In ap-gto@..., "skygazeral" <skygazeral@...> wrote:


Clean off the oxidation with a small jeweller's file or a Dremel tool. Using a hot soldering iron with a small tip apply electronic solder to the bad spot. Do not use plumbers solder. Make sure it flows on. While still hot, wipe in one direction with a damp cloth, to get all excess solder off and leave a smooth coating. You can reheat & rewipe if necessary. This will leave a nice coating of "tin" that will not corrode due to simple moisture.

If you have never done this before, you can practice first on a food tin (empty & with no label of course). Unfortunately, this is not a good excuse to empty a beer can because they are aluminum & wont solder.

Al

--- In ap-gto@..., "Werner" <werner.pribil@> wrote:









--- In ap-gto@..., chris1011@ wrote:

In a message dated 10/28/2009 3:31:47 PM Central Daylight Time,
werner.pribil@ writes:


Although this oxidation occurs where the surface was scratched.
You have basically scratched off the coating on the steel metal. Steel will
oxidize.

Rolando


Hello Rolando!

Yes, I know and I am annoyed about it !!
The question is now, what shall I do. Either I do nothing and wait till the oxidation becomes bigger every year or I protect it with some new coating to stop the oxidation. Do you have a tip how I can prevent that the oxidation goes on? I have searched for a while but I did not find a good (permanent) coating.

Werner



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Re: oxidation at RS 232 connector - AP 1200

werner.pribil
 

Hello Al

Thank you very much for this tip. I did not think about this solution, because the world of electronics is not my area.
So I will ask a fiend to help me to rapair the connector. I know he has experiences with soldering.
When we have done our job we will empty a beer an I will think of you. ;-)

Werner

--- In ap-gto@..., "skygazeral" <skygazeral@...> wrote:


Clean off the oxidation with a small jeweller's file or a Dremel tool. Using a hot soldering iron with a small tip apply electronic solder to the bad spot. Do not use plumbers solder. Make sure it flows on. While still hot, wipe in one direction with a damp cloth, to get all excess solder off and leave a smooth coating. You can reheat & rewipe if necessary. This will leave a nice coating of "tin" that will not corrode due to simple moisture.

If you have never done this before, you can practice first on a food tin (empty & with no label of course). Unfortunately, this is not a good excuse to empty a beer can because they are aluminum & wont solder.

Al

--- In ap-gto@..., "Werner" <werner.pribil@> wrote:









--- In ap-gto@..., chris1011@ wrote:

In a message dated 10/28/2009 3:31:47 PM Central Daylight Time,
werner.pribil@ writes:


Although this oxidation occurs where the surface was scratched.
You have basically scratched off the coating on the steel metal. Steel will
oxidize.

Rolando



Hello Rolando!

Yes, I know and I am annoyed about it !!
The question is now, what shall I do. Either I do nothing and wait till the oxidation becomes bigger every year or I protect it with some new coating to stop the oxidation. Do you have a tip how I can prevent that the oxidation goes on? I have searched for a while but I did not find a good (permanent) coating.

Werner


Re: oxidation at RS 232 connector - AP 1200

werner.pribil
 

Hello Norm !

Thank you for your answer. There is no special reason, but I think that is better to do something against oxidation at the beginning.
To brush it away may solve the problem at the moment, but I believe that oxidation will apapear again till I produce a new coating that
prohibits new oxidation. I want want to have some opinions of the group which method is the best (oil film, glue, electronic solder...)
What is your opinion ?

best regards

Werner

--- In ap-gto@..., "Buzz" <wskystalker@...> wrote:

Werner,

Is there a particular reason you are so very concerned over the oxidation on the pins in the connector? I have had an occasional spot of oxidation and it has done nothing to interfere with the function of the mount. I just brush it away with an old tooth brush.

Norm

--- In ap-gto@..., "Werner" <werner.pribil@> wrote:









--- In ap-gto@..., chris1011@ wrote:

In a message dated 10/28/2009 3:31:47 PM Central Daylight Time,
werner.pribil@ writes:


Although this oxidation occurs where the surface was scratched.
You have basically scratched off the coating on the steel metal. Steel will
oxidize.

Rolando


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Hello Rolando!

Yes, I know and I am annoyed about it !!
The question is now, what shall I do. Either I do nothing and wait till the oxidation becomes bigger every year or I protect it with some new coating to stop the oxidation. Do you have a tip how I can prevent that the oxidation goes on? I have searched for a while but I did not find a good (permanent) coating.

Werner


Re: Keypad battery change - what data is erased?

Philip Perkins <ppml3@...>
 

Gilles and Rick,

Thanks very much for your replies. While I have the keypad open I would like to do a bit of regular maintenance, i.e. cleaning contacts with DeoxIT-D5. So I may replace the battery with it powered up (and clean the battery contacts in the process), then unhook the keypad and clean the rest of the contacts. Finally, I will re-load the databases. Hopefully this will preserve as much of the data as possible. The regular maintenance is quite important as keypad resetting has been a recurrent problem in the past.

This exercise should not be a big problem as I have successfully uploaded new firmware in the past. However I'll probably keep my current V3.20 firmware as it seems to be working OK.

I do think it would be very useful if there were some sort of 'map' of which keypad firmware / software is stored in which particular part of the memory, and most importantly, how the volatility is controlled (i.e removing which battery or chip will erase which data). I still do not know which part of the memory stores my user settings. Originally I assumed that all 'permanent' data (i.e. keypad firmware and databases) was stored in Flash memory and that the battery only powered the volatile memory (user settings, etc). But perhaps the keypad was designed before Flash memory was readily available (or affordable). It seems that a very good future keypad upgrade would hold all data (including user data) in Flash memory - since one can buy CF cards containing gigabytes of data for almost pennies these days it seems that cost should be an issue, indeed may result in lower cost overall. It could also help solve some recurrent keypad problems.

Thanks
Philip
--

At 19:48 29/10/2009, you wrote:

Difficult to say for sure but if your battery is 'only' 5 years old, it should work just fine for several more years.

Remember that there is two parts to the keypad firmware. There is the keypad operating firmware currently at version 4.17 stored in a ROM style of memory, which does not require a battery, which you may or may not wish to upload. 12V DC power to the mount maintained while replacing or restoring the firmware will keep all the various databases up but may clear the user data areas such as time, location, etc.
The database portion of the firmware consisting of M, NGC, etc, is an entirely separate re-loading process from what I recall and it is stored in the battery powered memory. Since the database is scrambled due to momentary battery power loss, I think that restoring functionality by uploading the database will erase everything associated with it. There would be no point in uploading the database if it didn't replace the problematic one. I don't think it will touch the operating firmware or the user stored data but I'm not sure. There isn't that much in the user stored areas anyway.

If you plan on doing either or both processes, best to go through and physically write down the info from the 9 user defined locations if they are all used, the current start-up sequence and anything else you can think of which you put into the keypad. The processes and results must be documented somewhere in those keypad tech references and the relevant pages on the website. You will need to get the username and password(s) from Marg. While it is straightforward and generally goes without difficulty, this is definitely a RTFM process.

Rick.

If I remember well, no data is lost if your keypad is powered during battery replacement,
it is explained in the technical support page of the website.

Gilles
Philip Perkins
<ppml3@...>
Wiltshire UK & Luberon France
www.astrocruise.com
--
Note: the above email address may change in future.
To find my latest email address please visit: www.astrocruise.com
and click the "Send Email" link.
--


Re: AP-1200 GTO POLAR Scope Cover Cap

Gary
 

I looked at this cover and it didn't look like it would fit with the illuminator installed.
Does anyone know if in fact that's the case?

--- In ap-gto@..., "Buzz" <wskystalker@...> wrote:

Sorry,

The pictures are in the files section under 900 PAS cover.

Norm

--- In ap-gto@..., "Joseph Zeglinski" <J.Zeglinski@> wrote:


Hi,

Although we were discussing an AP-900 cover, there is however, an
"AP-1200 polar scope" cap cover currently on Astromart in the Mounts &
Tripods tab .

For Sale: Polarscope cover for AP1200GTO/AP400GTO
http://www.astromart.com/classifieds/details.asp?classified_id=652752

It looks identical to the pictures in Files which Howard placed, for the
Frank Barnes AP-900 cap - but I have been told by the seller that this one
has been tried on one, and it did NOT fit.

The seller did however, use it on his AP-1200.

Just one small concern or suspicion - it seems from Frank Barnes pics, the
AP-900 used to have a "tapered, or conical" rear cap axle ring, while my
2008 version is a squared off ring. Don't know if that is true (Roland ?).
Since the cap looks "slightly tapered", I wonder if it might not hit a
squared off end ring.
Something to check.

Hope this helps an AP-1200/400 GTO owner.
Joe


----- Original Message -----
From: "Howard" <howard@>
To: <ap-gto@...>
Sent: Thursday, October 08, 2009 11:37 AM
Subject: RE: [ap-gto] 900GTO RA rear cap


Hi Danny and group,



The threads are 3.590" x 24 tpi. If you have something machined, I
would certainly take the existing cap to the machinist for him to
measure and inspect. I have posted a picture package of some shots
that Frank Barnes sent me of his very excellent cover in the Files
section. It has the regrettably unoriginal name of
Picture-Package.jpg, because I forgot to rename it first.
Unfortunately, I don't believe the guy who actually machined the cover
is still in business, but for that rather interesting story, you'll have
to talk to Frank, maybe at AIC!

This cover would have a rather limited latitude range, especially with
older mounts that do not have the taller polar forks. Those of you at
higher latitudes would be out of luck. (No, I don't have a precise
latitude range!) We have thought about making them, or something
similar, but couldn't quite get them to the top of the priority list.
This might be a good chance to see what kind of demand there actually
is.



Mag. 7 skies!



Howard Hedlund

Astro-Physics, Inc.

815-282-1513

________________________________

From: ap-gto@... [mailto:ap-gto@...] On Behalf
Of dannysperry
Sent: Wednesday, October 07, 2009 7:45 PM
To: ap-gto@...
Subject: [ap-gto] 900GTO RA rear cap





Hi Rolando or anyone who can help... I'm hoping to get the exact
diameter and thread specs on the RA rear cap for a 900GTO. I want to get
a custom one made that will allow me to permanently keep the polar scope
in place while covering/protecting the RA bearings... So, essentially
the same cover as the stock one but a little deeper and with a hole in
the middle to allow the polar scope to stick through.

Thx,
Danny





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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Re: oxidation at RS 232 connector - AP 1200

skygazeral <skygazeral@...>
 

Clean off the oxidation with a small jeweller's file or a Dremel tool. Using a hot soldering iron with a small tip apply electronic solder to the bad spot. Do not use plumbers solder. Make sure it flows on. While still hot, wipe in one direction with a damp cloth, to get all excess solder off and leave a smooth coating. You can reheat & rewipe if necessary. This will leave a nice coating of "tin" that will not corrode due to simple moisture.

If you have never done this before, you can practice first on a food tin (empty & with no label of course). Unfortunately, this is not a good excuse to empty a beer can because they are aluminum & wont solder.

Al

--- In ap-gto@..., "Werner" <werner.pribil@...> wrote:









--- In ap-gto@..., chris1011@ wrote:

In a message dated 10/28/2009 3:31:47 PM Central Daylight Time,
werner.pribil@ writes:


Although this oxidation occurs where the surface was scratched.
You have basically scratched off the coating on the steel metal. Steel will
oxidize.

Rolando



Hello Rolando!

Yes, I know and I am annoyed about it !!
The question is now, what shall I do. Either I do nothing and wait till the oxidation becomes bigger every year or I protect it with some new coating to stop the oxidation. Do you have a tip how I can prevent that the oxidation goes on? I have searched for a while but I did not find a good (permanent) coating.

Werner


Re: shipping a mount

Dean S
 

AP designed that box to prevent damage from shipping, I would always use the
orginal mfg shipping boxes. Who knows better how to protect it?

Dean

----- Original Message -----
From: "msfainc" <msfainc@...>
To: <ap-gto@...>
Sent: Friday, October 30, 2009 9:31 AM
Subject: [ap-gto] shipping a mount


I am going to ship my Mach 1 GTO mount to Ohio. Do you think that it would
be best to ship in the original boxes, which I still have? Or should I send
the mount in its scopeguard case, with a double walled cardboard box to
protect the case (I'm sending the case too anyway)?
Any input appreciated.
Morgan




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new test from TOA Observatory

toa_mm <toa.mm@...>
 

Hello everyone!
It's incredible to me the work that I wanted to do on my achromatic refractor and AP1200GTO.
Lately I've ever done tests with H-alpha filters, but now I begin to think about how to use the instrument in the luminance in the clear.
I tried and tested a new Baader Semi-APO filter.
I was really excited!
The filter works really well, takes away the residual color and makes the telescope more contrasted. I leave you any comment!
At this link there is a new image (clic on image with "NEW"):
http://www.skytoa.it/galleria_galassie.html

Also, I have finally prepared the newsletter for my website! I hope to receive your free subscriptions!
This is the link where you can register. Click on the drawing of the boxletter:
http://www.skytoa.it/contatti.html

Thanks for visit and best regards!
Matteo Morino

T.O.A. Torrazzo Osservatorio Astronomico
di Matteo Morino
www.skytoa.it
toa@...


Re: oxidation at RS 232 connector - AP 1200

Norm
 

Werner,

Is there a particular reason you are so very concerned over the oxidation on the pins in the connector? I have had an occasional spot of oxidation and it has done nothing to interfere with the function of the mount. I just brush it away with an old tooth brush.

Norm

--- In ap-gto@..., "Werner" <werner.pribil@...> wrote:









--- In ap-gto@..., chris1011@ wrote:

In a message dated 10/28/2009 3:31:47 PM Central Daylight Time,
werner.pribil@ writes:


Although this oxidation occurs where the surface was scratched.
You have basically scratched off the coating on the steel metal. Steel will
oxidize.

Rolando


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Hello Rolando!

Yes, I know and I am annoyed about it !!
The question is now, what shall I do. Either I do nothing and wait till the oxidation becomes bigger every year or I protect it with some new coating to stop the oxidation. Do you have a tip how I can prevent that the oxidation goes on? I have searched for a while but I did not find a good (permanent) coating.

Werner


Re: AP-1200 GTO POLAR Scope Cover Cap

Norm
 

Sorry,

The pictures are in the files section under 900 PAS cover.

Norm

--- In ap-gto@..., "Joseph Zeglinski" <J.Zeglinski@...> wrote:


Hi,

Although we were discussing an AP-900 cover, there is however, an
"AP-1200 polar scope" cap cover currently on Astromart in the Mounts &
Tripods tab .

For Sale: Polarscope cover for AP1200GTO/AP400GTO
http://www.astromart.com/classifieds/details.asp?classified_id=652752

It looks identical to the pictures in Files which Howard placed, for the
Frank Barnes AP-900 cap - but I have been told by the seller that this one
has been tried on one, and it did NOT fit.

The seller did however, use it on his AP-1200.

Just one small concern or suspicion - it seems from Frank Barnes pics, the
AP-900 used to have a "tapered, or conical" rear cap axle ring, while my
2008 version is a squared off ring. Don't know if that is true (Roland ?).
Since the cap looks "slightly tapered", I wonder if it might not hit a
squared off end ring.
Something to check.

Hope this helps an AP-1200/400 GTO owner.
Joe


----- Original Message -----
From: "Howard" <howard@...>
To: <ap-gto@...>
Sent: Thursday, October 08, 2009 11:37 AM
Subject: RE: [ap-gto] 900GTO RA rear cap


Hi Danny and group,



The threads are 3.590" x 24 tpi. If you have something machined, I
would certainly take the existing cap to the machinist for him to
measure and inspect. I have posted a picture package of some shots
that Frank Barnes sent me of his very excellent cover in the Files
section. It has the regrettably unoriginal name of
Picture-Package.jpg, because I forgot to rename it first.
Unfortunately, I don't believe the guy who actually machined the cover
is still in business, but for that rather interesting story, you'll have
to talk to Frank, maybe at AIC!

This cover would have a rather limited latitude range, especially with
older mounts that do not have the taller polar forks. Those of you at
higher latitudes would be out of luck. (No, I don't have a precise
latitude range!) We have thought about making them, or something
similar, but couldn't quite get them to the top of the priority list.
This might be a good chance to see what kind of demand there actually
is.



Mag. 7 skies!



Howard Hedlund

Astro-Physics, Inc.

815-282-1513

________________________________

From: ap-gto@... [mailto:ap-gto@...] On Behalf
Of dannysperry
Sent: Wednesday, October 07, 2009 7:45 PM
To: ap-gto@...
Subject: [ap-gto] 900GTO RA rear cap





Hi Rolando or anyone who can help... I'm hoping to get the exact
diameter and thread specs on the RA rear cap for a 900GTO. I want to get
a custom one made that will allow me to permanently keep the polar scope
in place while covering/protecting the RA bearings... So, essentially
the same cover as the stock one but a little deeper and with a hole in
the middle to allow the polar scope to stick through.

Thx,
Danny





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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Re: AP-1200 GTO POLAR Scope Cover Cap

Norm
 

The cap from Astromart will indeed fit SOME 900 mounts. I bought the cap and it fits both my 900 and 1200 quite well. I have posted 2 pics showing the cap on my 900.

Norm

--- In ap-gto@..., "Joseph Zeglinski" <J.Zeglinski@...> wrote:


Hi,

Although we were discussing an AP-900 cover, there is however, an
"AP-1200 polar scope" cap cover currently on Astromart in the Mounts &
Tripods tab .

For Sale: Polarscope cover for AP1200GTO/AP400GTO
http://www.astromart.com/classifieds/details.asp?classified_id=652752

It looks identical to the pictures in Files which Howard placed, for the
Frank Barnes AP-900 cap - but I have been told by the seller that this one
has been tried on one, and it did NOT fit.

The seller did however, use it on his AP-1200.

Just one small concern or suspicion - it seems from Frank Barnes pics, the
AP-900 used to have a "tapered, or conical" rear cap axle ring, while my
2008 version is a squared off ring. Don't know if that is true (Roland ?).
Since the cap looks "slightly tapered", I wonder if it might not hit a
squared off end ring.
Something to check.

Hope this helps an AP-1200/400 GTO owner.
Joe


----- Original Message -----
From: "Howard" <howard@...>
To: <ap-gto@...>
Sent: Thursday, October 08, 2009 11:37 AM
Subject: RE: [ap-gto] 900GTO RA rear cap


Hi Danny and group,



The threads are 3.590" x 24 tpi. If you have something machined, I
would certainly take the existing cap to the machinist for him to
measure and inspect. I have posted a picture package of some shots
that Frank Barnes sent me of his very excellent cover in the Files
section. It has the regrettably unoriginal name of
Picture-Package.jpg, because I forgot to rename it first.
Unfortunately, I don't believe the guy who actually machined the cover
is still in business, but for that rather interesting story, you'll have
to talk to Frank, maybe at AIC!

This cover would have a rather limited latitude range, especially with
older mounts that do not have the taller polar forks. Those of you at
higher latitudes would be out of luck. (No, I don't have a precise
latitude range!) We have thought about making them, or something
similar, but couldn't quite get them to the top of the priority list.
This might be a good chance to see what kind of demand there actually
is.



Mag. 7 skies!



Howard Hedlund

Astro-Physics, Inc.

815-282-1513

________________________________

From: ap-gto@... [mailto:ap-gto@...] On Behalf
Of dannysperry
Sent: Wednesday, October 07, 2009 7:45 PM
To: ap-gto@...
Subject: [ap-gto] 900GTO RA rear cap





Hi Rolando or anyone who can help... I'm hoping to get the exact
diameter and thread specs on the RA rear cap for a 900GTO. I want to get
a custom one made that will allow me to permanently keep the polar scope
in place while covering/protecting the RA bearings... So, essentially
the same cover as the stock one but a little deeper and with a hole in
the middle to allow the polar scope to stick through.

Thx,
Danny





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



------------------------------------

To UNSUBSCRIBE, or for general information on the ap-gto list
see http://groups.yahoo.com/group/ap-gtoYahoo! Groups Links




shipping a mount

msfainc <msfainc@...>
 

I am going to ship my Mach 1 GTO mount to Ohio. Do you think that it would be best to ship in the original boxes, which I still have? Or should I send the mount in its scopeguard case, with a double walled cardboard box to protect the case (I'm sending the case too anyway)?
Any input appreciated.
Morgan


Re: Keypad battery change - what data is erased?

observe_m13
 

Difficult to say for sure but if your battery is 'only' 5 years old, it should work just fine for several more years.

Remember that there is two parts to the keypad firmware. There is the keypad operating firmware currently at version 4.17 stored in a ROM style of memory, which does not require a battery, which you may or may not wish to upload. 12V DC power to the mount maintained while replacing or restoring the firmware will keep all the various databases up but may clear the user data areas such as time, location, etc.
The database portion of the firmware consisting of M, NGC, etc, is an entirely separate re-loading process from what I recall and it is stored in the battery powered memory. Since the database is scrambled due to momentary battery power loss, I think that restoring functionality by uploading the database will erase everything associated with it. There would be no point in uploading the database if it didn't replace the problematic one. I don't think it will touch the operating firmware or the user stored data but I'm not sure. There isn't that much in the user stored areas anyway.

If you plan on doing either or both processes, best to go through and physically write down the info from the 9 user defined locations if they are all used, the current start-up sequence and anything else you can think of which you put into the keypad. The processes and results must be documented somewhere in those keypad tech references and the relevant pages on the website. You will need to get the username and password(s) from Marg. While it is straightforward and generally goes without difficulty, this is definitely a RTFM process.

Rick.

--- In ap-gto@..., Philip Perkins <ppml3@...> wrote:

OK, let's forget about scrambled M and NGC databases, though that's
serious enough.

Please, please, could someone tell me what data is erased when the
keypad battery is removed, in order to be replaced by a new one?

I have looked, and cannot readily find this information on the AP web
pages. I would really like to know because I want to do a preemptive
battery replacement before an astro trip to France in another few
days (the battery is more than 5 years old).

I would like to know this so that I can first of all take note of any
data that will get lost.

Thank you very much
Philip
--
Philip Perkins
<ppml3@...>
Wiltshire UK & Luberon France
www.astrocruise.com
--
Note: the above email address may change in future.
To find my latest email address please visit: www.astrocruise.com
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