One thing I forgot to mention is that although the driver has been well tested we are considering it to only be a
Release Candidate/public beta and not the final release. If you have any issues please post them to this (AP-GTO) group
for now so that they will be easier for us to track.

-Ray

Hello all,

Astro-Physics is pleased to announce the availability of the new ASCOM telescope driver for Astro-Physics GTO Mounts.
For the last few months it has been going through rigorous testing by Howard at Astro-Physics and a group of very
capable beta testers. I want to extend my sincerest gratitude to them and to Astro-Physics for making this driver
possible.

That said we think it is now ready for wider distribution so we are announcing its availability today. Shortly you will
be able to download the driver from the Files section of this group in the directory "_New AP ASCOM Driver". When I
upload it I will also select the option to send an email notice to the group which will have the direct link to the
driver.

The documentation is not yet finished but we have prepared three YouTube videos (installation, setup, and operation)
that you can view which should explain most of what you need to know. If you have questions please take the time to
watch them first to make sure your question isn't already answered in one of the videos (thanks!).

Video 1 - ASCOM platform installation and Driver Installation:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7slpnfKnycY

Video 2 - Driver setup
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M3PPhj9a7hI

Video 3 - Driver operation
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mdlzq87HxEI

-Ray Gralak

Hello,

This email message is a notification to let you know that
a file has been uploaded to the Files area of the ap-gto
group.

File : /_New AP ASCOM Driver/AstroPhysics V2 Setup v4.99.40.exe
Uploaded by : raygralak <yahoo@...>
Description : Astro-Physics ASCOM V2 Driver V4.99.40

You can access this file at the URL:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/ap-gto/files/_New%20AP%20ASCOM%20Driver/AstroPhysics%20V2%20Setup%20v4.99.40.exe

To learn more about file sharing for your group, please visit:
http://help.yahoo.com/l/us/yahoo/groups/original/general.htmlfiles

Regards,

raygralak <yahoo@...>

Hi Rolando,

thanks for the update. Sounds like a very interesting event.
Can you maybe lift a bit of the veil on the APCC software, like what new features might be included? And any guestimates on when it may be finished?


Thanks,

Peter

Chris,

Glad it works or you. I didn't say it was "very" corrosive, but I have had it do bad thinks to neighbouring material. I have also been warned by other companies about trying it near rubber O-rings, etc.

I'm not here to destroy the company, use the stuff quite often, but I am now more careful.

Enjoy the product. 'Nuf said.

Joe

Now THAT is a good rebuttal! And I thought astro gear was expensive!



Stuart



To: ap-gto@...
From: ccurran@...
Date: Wed, 4 Nov 2009 13:30:16 +0000
Subject: [ap-gto] Re: oxidation at RS 232 connector - AP 1200





Stuart,

:) Yes, yes, yes. But that wiper arm was not built to "last". It was
built to be replaced. They don't spend a lot of time prepping those arms
to be painted and they don't spend a lot of money painting them. All the
wiper arms in FL look like that after a year - with/without WD-40. :)
Just because you put WD-40 on something and it doesn't work out the way
you expect doesn't equate to WD-40 being at fault.

Expensive? Price out a pair of Yamaha 300's sometime... then ask how
much to repair them. Or ask how much to repair that gel-coat on the
boat. If you think I/we go slapping WD-40 anywhere near a 200k
investment without thinking and checking thrice, well.... we don't.

--
cheers & beers,
Chris

--- In ap-gto@..., <stuart.j.heggie@...> wrote:

LOL! Hey, it was a Toyota!



I'm not a chemist but I work with chemists and they say that what's in

WD40 is pretty awful stuff. If you want a real lubricant, buy something
else. I do know that my local high end bike shop owner sprays it on his
beater-bike when he rides in winter so that he can easily spray wash off
the snow and salt when he gets home from a ride. However, after what it
did to the flat black paint on my car, I'm keeping it away from anything
expensive.

Stuart

The bolt was stainless and unpainted. But the bar it was attached to
was coated with 2 coats of epoxy primer and 1 coat of lacquer. We
sprayed the WD40 into the bold and had some spill over on the
metal. When the product arrive the bolt was rusty and the painted
area which was exposed to the WD40 started molting even after we
wiped them before packing. We no longer use an lubricants to our bolts.

Chris

At 12:55 PM 11/4/2009, you wrote:

Lets see.... Bolts. With paint. The paint is peeling off after use.
What a surprise! :) That's not due to WD-40. :)

cheers & beers,
Chris

--- In <mailto:ap-gto%40yahoogroups.com>ap-gto@...,
Christopher Go <chris@...> wrote:

We used to use WD40 on the bolts of our furniture. But our customers
were complaining that paint was peeling of and the bolt were
rusted! I wouldn't use WD40 on my AP mount. How about a plastic cover?

Regards,
Chris

Christopher and Vicky Go
Christone Industries
Manufacturer and Exporter of Quality Fossil Stone and Wrought Iron Furniture
Cebu, Philippines
http://www.christone.net
Astronomy: http://astro.christone.net
Red Spot Jr: http://www.redspotjr.com

Stuart,

:) Yes, yes, yes. But that wiper arm was not built to "last". It was
built to be replaced. They don't spend a lot of time prepping those arms
to be painted and they don't spend a lot of money painting them. All the
wiper arms in FL look like that after a year - with/without WD-40. :)
Just because you put WD-40 on something and it doesn't work out the way
you expect doesn't equate to WD-40 being at fault.

Expensive? Price out a pair of Yamaha 300's sometime... then ask how
much to repair them. Or ask how much to repair that gel-coat on the
boat. If you think I/we go slapping WD-40 anywhere near a 200k
investment without thinking and checking thrice, well.... we don't.

--
cheers & beers,
Chris

--- In ap-gto@..., <stuart.j.heggie@...> wrote:

LOL! Hey, it was a Toyota!



I'm not a chemist but I work with chemists and they say that what's in

WD40 is pretty awful stuff. If you want a real lubricant, buy something
else. I do know that my local high end bike shop owner sprays it on his
beater-bike when he rides in winter so that he can easily spray wash off
the snow and salt when he gets home from a ride. However, after what it
did to the flat black paint on my car, I'm keeping it away from anything
expensive.

Stuart

LOL! Hey, it was a Toyota!



I'm not a chemist but I work with chemists and they say that what's in WD40 is pretty awful stuff. If you want a real lubricant, buy something else. I do know that my local high end bike shop owner sprays it on his beater-bike when he rides in winter so that he can easily spray wash off the snow and salt when he gets home from a ride. However, after what it did to the flat black paint on my car, I'm keeping it away from anything expensive.



Stuart



To: ap-gto@...
From: ccurran@...
Date: Wed, 4 Nov 2009 12:56:24 +0000
Subject: [ap-gto] Re: oxidation at RS 232 connector - AP 1200





Yea, cheap paint will do this. :) :) :)

Yea, cheap paint will do this. :) :) :)

Lets see.... Bolts. With paint. The paint is peeling off after use. What a surprise! :) That's not due to WD-40. :)

cheers & beers,
Chris

I sprayed a bit of WD40 on the windshield wiper arms of my last car, at a pivot point that was sticking, and it promptly removed ALL the paint. It looked horrible and I no longer use that junk. It is cheap and you get what you pay for in this world.



Stuart



To: ap-gto@...
From: chris@...
Date: Wed, 4 Nov 2009 12:47:24 +0000
Subject: Re: [ap-gto] Re: oxidation at RS 232 connector - AP 1200





We used to use WD40 on the bolts of our furniture. But our customers
were complaining that paint was peeling of and the bolt were
rusted! I wouldn't use WD40 on my AP mount. How about a plastic cover?

Regards,
Chris

At 12:30 PM 11/4/2009, you wrote:

Joe,

Eh, I still don't buy it. :) If WD-40 were corroding things, it seems
there'd be at least one hit in google. No one is talking about walking
up to the mount and just spraying it one everything in sight so why
you're worried about cables/electronics/paint is beside me. A cotton
swab is a better tool for this job. However...

WD-40 not as bad as acetone? You think!?! :) I've never seen WD-40 have
any effect (other than make a mess) on plastic. I guess you found a very
sensitive type of plastic! Cables? Those industrial rubberized cables AP
uses? The ones that survive arctic temps can't handle a spot of WD-40?
Really? Yea, I don't think I'm buying that either. :)

While I don't think there would ever be a need for me to open the
control box and spray WD in there, I really doubt it would do anything
other than make a mess. I've sprayed WD on all things electronic over
the years to protect and displace moisture. Anyone with a boat knows how
to keep those very high $$$ motors looking and running like new - pull
the cowling off after ever run and liberally coat everything in sight
with WD-40. The last Evinrude I bought in 95 still looks like new under
the hood. Not one spec of corrosion and not one dried out/cracked wire
or line (six carbs have lots of wiring/tubing). All original on a motor
that's 14 years old and lives near and plays (hard) in salt water.

WD-40 isn't going to do a darn thang to that AP paint job. My mounts are
proof of that. :)

WD-40 as medicine? Now that's interesting!!! WD-40 and Windex. The new
wonder drugs of the 21'st century! :)

--
cheers & beers,
Chris

--- In <mailto:ap-gto%40yahoogroups.com>ap-gto@...,
"Joseph Zeglinski" <J.Zeglinski@...>
wrote:

Hi Chris,

A few years ago, I phoned the WD's tech support, and was

cautiously

warned about the corrosion - "very reluctantly". He described WD-40 as

a

"solvent" rather than as a "lubricant". That is probably the

tribologist's

legal description, even though the ads show it being used to lubricate
squeaks. Tech Support didn't want to make a deal about it, but

directed me

to their spec sheet, which they mailed me. I did find something there

about

the corrosive nature. I mean, it has to clean or dissolve rust, grease

and

grime, while it lubricates. But I was told that it isn't an oil, so it

will

soon evaporate and require another application - more "cleaning"

corrosion I

assume.

I did get some on plastic while soaking off a old label, and it

did

turn it dull, so the caustic does work. Not as bad as acetone, or pure
caustic soda. Great stuff for metals and dried up labels, but look

out for

plastics, etc.

An elderly relative once was putting us on, that WD-40 sprayed on

his

aching knee did wonders for him - now I wonder if the irritant from

the

corrosive, really does do the trick to generate some soothing heat.

Anyway, it is a fact that it is mildly corrosive - try it on a

medicine

bottle and watch closely.
It is still the best solvent around, but you must be careful about its

use.

I wouldn't want it anywhere near the AP mount, especially the

electronics

and cables. Wouldn't risk the nice paint job either.
... but, if you want to test it ....

Joe

Christopher and Vicky Go
Christone Industries
Manufacturer and Exporter of Quality Fossil Stone and Wrought Iron Furniture
Cebu, Philippines
http://www.christone.net
Astronomy: http://astro.christone.net
Red Spot Jr: http://www.redspotjr.com

We used to use WD40 on the bolts of our furniture. But our customers
were complaining that paint was peeling of and the bolt were
rusted! I wouldn't use WD40 on my AP mount. How about a plastic cover?

Regards,
Chris

At 12:30 PM 11/4/2009, you wrote:

Joe,

Eh, I still don't buy it. :) If WD-40 were corroding things, it seems
there'd be at least one hit in google. No one is talking about walking
up to the mount and just spraying it one everything in sight so why
you're worried about cables/electronics/paint is beside me. A cotton
swab is a better tool for this job. However...

WD-40 not as bad as acetone? You think!?! :) I've never seen WD-40 have
any effect (other than make a mess) on plastic. I guess you found a very
sensitive type of plastic! Cables? Those industrial rubberized cables AP
uses? The ones that survive arctic temps can't handle a spot of WD-40?
Really? Yea, I don't think I'm buying that either. :)

While I don't think there would ever be a need for me to open the
control box and spray WD in there, I really doubt it would do anything
other than make a mess. I've sprayed WD on all things electronic over
the years to protect and displace moisture. Anyone with a boat knows how
to keep those very high $$$ motors looking and running like new - pull
the cowling off after ever run and liberally coat everything in sight
with WD-40. The last Evinrude I bought in 95 still looks like new under
the hood. Not one spec of corrosion and not one dried out/cracked wire
or line (six carbs have lots of wiring/tubing). All original on a motor
that's 14 years old and lives near and plays (hard) in salt water.

WD-40 isn't going to do a darn thang to that AP paint job. My mounts are
proof of that. :)

WD-40 as medicine? Now that's interesting!!! WD-40 and Windex. The new
wonder drugs of the 21'st century! :)

--
cheers & beers,
Chris

--- In <mailto:ap-gto%40yahoogroups.com>ap-gto@...,
"Joseph Zeglinski" <J.Zeglinski@...>
wrote:

Hi Chris,

A few years ago, I phoned the WD's tech support, and was

cautiously

warned about the corrosion - "very reluctantly". He described WD-40 as

a

"solvent" rather than as a "lubricant". That is probably the

tribologist's

legal description, even though the ads show it being used to lubricate
squeaks. Tech Support didn't want to make a deal about it, but

directed me

to their spec sheet, which they mailed me. I did find something there

about

the corrosive nature. I mean, it has to clean or dissolve rust, grease

and

grime, while it lubricates. But I was told that it isn't an oil, so it

will

soon evaporate and require another application - more "cleaning"

corrosion I

assume.

I did get some on plastic while soaking off a old label, and it

did

turn it dull, so the caustic does work. Not as bad as acetone, or pure
caustic soda. Great stuff for metals and dried up labels, but look

out for

plastics, etc.

An elderly relative once was putting us on, that WD-40 sprayed on

his

aching knee did wonders for him - now I wonder if the irritant from

the

corrosive, really does do the trick to generate some soothing heat.

Anyway, it is a fact that it is mildly corrosive - try it on a

medicine

bottle and watch closely.
It is still the best solvent around, but you must be careful about its

use.

I wouldn't want it anywhere near the AP mount, especially the

electronics

and cables. Wouldn't risk the nice paint job either.
... but, if you want to test it ....

Joe

Christopher and Vicky Go
Christone Industries
Manufacturer and Exporter of Quality Fossil Stone and Wrought Iron Furniture
Cebu, Philippines
http://www.christone.net
Astronomy: http://astro.christone.net
Red Spot Jr: http://www.redspotjr.com

... for today's APOD - see http://antwrp.gsfc.nasa.gov/apod/ap091104.html ...

Anthony.

Joe,

Eh, I still don't buy it. :) If WD-40 were corroding things, it seems
there'd be at least one hit in google. No one is talking about walking
up to the mount and just spraying it one everything in sight so why
you're worried about cables/electronics/paint is beside me. A cotton
swab is a better tool for this job. However...

WD-40 not as bad as acetone? You think!?! :) I've never seen WD-40 have
any effect (other than make a mess) on plastic. I guess you found a very
sensitive type of plastic! Cables? Those industrial rubberized cables AP
uses? The ones that survive arctic temps can't handle a spot of WD-40?
Really? Yea, I don't think I'm buying that either. :)

While I don't think there would ever be a need for me to open the
control box and spray WD in there, I really doubt it would do anything
other than make a mess. I've sprayed WD on all things electronic over
the years to protect and displace moisture. Anyone with a boat knows how
to keep those very high $$$ motors looking and running like new - pull
the cowling off after ever run and liberally coat everything in sight
with WD-40. The last Evinrude I bought in 95 still looks like new under
the hood. Not one spec of corrosion and not one dried out/cracked wire
or line (six carbs have lots of wiring/tubing). All original on a motor
that's 14 years old and lives near and plays (hard) in salt water.

WD-40 isn't going to do a darn thang to that AP paint job. My mounts are
proof of that. :)

WD-40 as medicine? Now that's interesting!!! WD-40 and Windex. The new
wonder drugs of the 21'st century! :)

--
cheers & beers,
Chris


--- In ap-gto@..., "Joseph Zeglinski" <J.Zeglinski@...>
wrote:

Hi Chris,

A few years ago, I phoned the WD's tech support, and was

cautiously

warned about the corrosion - "very reluctantly". He described WD-40 as

a

"solvent" rather than as a "lubricant". That is probably the

tribologist's

legal description, even though the ads show it being used to lubricate
squeaks. Tech Support didn't want to make a deal about it, but

directed me

to their spec sheet, which they mailed me. I did find something there

about

the corrosive nature. I mean, it has to clean or dissolve rust, grease

and

grime, while it lubricates. But I was told that it isn't an oil, so it

will

soon evaporate and require another application - more "cleaning"

corrosion I

assume.

I did get some on plastic while soaking off a old label, and it

did

turn it dull, so the caustic does work. Not as bad as acetone, or pure
caustic soda. Great stuff for metals and dried up labels, but look

out for

plastics, etc.

An elderly relative once was putting us on, that WD-40 sprayed on

his

aching knee did wonders for him - now I wonder if the irritant from

the

corrosive, really does do the trick to generate some soothing heat.

Anyway, it is a fact that it is mildly corrosive - try it on a

medicine

bottle and watch closely.
It is still the best solvent around, but you must be careful about its

use.

I wouldn't want it anywhere near the AP mount, especially the

electronics

and cables. Wouldn't risk the nice paint job either.
... but, if you want to test it ....

Joe

In a message dated 11/4/2009 10:02:15 AM Central Standard Time,
phorstink@... writes:

Hi Rolando,

thanks for the update. Sounds like a very interesting event.
Can you maybe lift a bit of the veil on the APCC software, like what new
features might be included? And any guestimates on when it may be finished?


Thanks,

Peter

Howard and Ray Gralack can answer you best.

Rolando

Hi Folks,

Marj and I have returned from AIC where we showed our 3600 mount and the
two 305mm instruments. Attendance was great and we had a lot of interest in
our stuff. Thanks to all the amateurs who stopped by to chat with us. We had
Howard and Wally along, who did a nice job explaining the operation of the
mount and the new APCC software (which is not quite finished).

I had a chance to see some new stuff along the lines of filters, software
and CCD cameras among other things. I did manage to hear a few of the talks
including our own Tom Davis (aka Dusty Tom) who discussed image processing
shortcuts that help him to pull very faint dusty details out of his CCD
images. Tony Hallas discussed noise reduction techniques that helps him to produce
smooth colorful images of deep sky objects. Tony was selling a set of
videos where he explains everything you ever wanted to know about image
processing and image capture of deep sky objects. Steve Mandel gave a very
interesting talk about intergalactic, or was it extra-galactic dust clouds, which
pervade the universe, and which are the building blocks of life. In fact the one
dominant molecule in the universe happens to be just a tiny step away from
the hemoglobin molecule in our own bloodstream.

Many other talks discussed advances in remote imaging, very high resolution
imaging, new CCD cameras, processing techniques and more. Anyone who is
into imaging should seriously consider next year's AIC conference, where you
can meet world class amateurs and learn new tricks and techniques - an
astronomy imaging camp of the first class. The event was well thought out and run
in a friendly and professional manner, with great food being served during
the lunch and dinner hours, plus lots of great sight seeing opportunities. We
spent two nights in the San Francisco area, complete with hiking in Muir
Woods, riding the cable cars, checking out the Maritime Museum on the
waterfront, and dining on Fisherman's Warf and in Sausalito.

"till next year,

Rolando and Marj

Hi George,

Should acquire be run again with the pec on and upload the new curve again, or would that ruin the original curve?

To refine you must re-acquire with PEM enabled then add the resulting curve, which represents the residual periodic
error, to the original PE curve (the one acquired with PEM off). However, since you say you are using a GTOCP2 you must
do the entire sequence from scratch and then do both the initial correction and refinement all at once because PEC phase
is lost once you move the mount.

However, before you do that try acquiring 3-4 cycles with the PEM enabled and look at the frequency spectrum to see if
there are any integer fundamentals present.

-Ray

Hi Chris,

A few years ago, I phoned the WD's tech support, and was cautiously warned about the corrosion - "very reluctantly". He described WD-40 as a "solvent" rather than as a "lubricant". That is probably the tribologist's legal description, even though the ads show it being used to lubricate squeaks. Tech Support didn't want to make a deal about it, but directed me to their spec sheet, which they mailed me. I did find something there about the corrosive nature. I mean, it has to clean or dissolve rust, grease and grime, while it lubricates. But I was told that it isn't an oil, so it will soon evaporate and require another application - more "cleaning" corrosion I assume.

I did get some on plastic while soaking off a old label, and it did turn it dull, so the caustic does work. Not as bad as acetone, or pure caustic soda. Great stuff for metals and dried up labels, but look out for plastics, etc.

An elderly relative once was putting us on, that WD-40 sprayed on his aching knee did wonders for him - now I wonder if the irritant from the corrosive, really does do the trick to generate some soothing heat.

Anyway, it is a fact that it is mildly corrosive - try it on a medicine bottle and watch closely.
It is still the best solvent around, but you must be careful about its use. I wouldn't want it anywhere near the AP mount, especially the electronics and cables. Wouldn't risk the nice paint job either.
... but, if you want to test it ....

Joe

Joe,

You can't make a claim like that without some corroboration. :) I also checked with google tech support and they don't seem to have anything on WD-40 being corrosive, but I could have missed something.

The WD-40 website claims in multiple places that: "WD-40 protects metal surfaces with corrosion-resistant ingredients to shield against moisture and other corrosive elements."

WD-40 evaporate? I suppose beer does too, but I never let it sit around that long. :) If indeed it does evap, re-apply once every few years.

cheers & beers,
Chris