Date   

Re: How to measure amps, please?

Richard Crisp
 

sometimes I wish I still had my old trusty Simpson 260....

galvanometer movement, old style, rock solid, mechanical...

http://www.simpson260.com/260-8/simpson_260-8.htm

----- Original Message -----
From: Jim Buchanan
To: ap-gto@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, August 05, 2007 6:25 PM
Subject: [ap-gto] Re: How to measure amps, please?


Interesting you should mention that. I am currently working with an
older digital meter that doesn't have the 10A setting, and when all
hooked up, the A-P control box says "low battery" when its a strong
12V. I wondered if the ammeter was zapping volts somehow.

So, I now have a second cig lighter cord that has the positive wire
cut and goes to 2 banana plugs. If I connect the 2 bananas, then the
curcuit is complete and the A-P hand controller fires up normal with
a red LED on the control box.

But, if I plug the 2 bananas into the older ammeter, then I get
yellow LED and low battery alert.

Then, I have a #2 cheap digital meter with the 10A socket, I'm not
getting anywhere with.

The cheap digital #2 meter with the 10A socket, allows the mount to
work properly, but doesn't give reasonable readout.

Maybe the fuse is blown or I need to get a more expensive meter?

Thanks, again.
Jim

--- In ap-gto@yahoogroups.com, Rick Thurmond <yahoogroups@...> wrote:
>
> Jim,
> Do you have a digital or analog meter? Does your meter have
> something like a 10A setting? In that setting the voltage drop
> through the meter is as low as possible.
>
> Rick
>
> On Aug 5, 2007, at 9:36 AM, Jim Buchanan wrote:
>
> > Thanks you Richard and Rick for your help.
> >
> > I'm getting there. I now understand the ammeter completes the
curcuit.
> > I've made an adapter that goes between the A-P control box and
the A-P
> > power cord with one line cut to go through the ammeter. It works
on a
> > simple battery-light curcuit.
> >
> > My problem is getting a motor stall/yellow light upon mount power-
on.
> > I'm checking the plug connections for loose contact.
> >
> > Jim.
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>


Re: 29 hours of m27 at 3366mm

Richard Crisp
 

the custom scientific 4.5nm filters show emission at 673.4nm which corresponds to the stronger of the [SII] doublet.

----- Original Message -----
From: drgert1
To: ap-gto@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, August 05, 2007 6:42 PM
Subject: [ap-gto] Re: 29 hours of m27 at 3366mm


Hi Paul,

--- In ap-gto@yahoogroups.com, Paul Mortfield <paul@...> wrote:
... The majority of detail in this
> target is in Ha. There's strong component in OIII but very minor in SII.
...

I am uncertain if the SII is actually from sulfur atoms present in the
target. We all know that the universe is Hydrogen and Helium and the
OIII comes from the CNO process in stellar fusion. But is there enough
sulfur from stellar evolution to feed that spectral line to a
noteworthy intensity? Could there be continuum light picked up by the
SII filter? Or a 'leak' from the nearby very intense HII?? Too tough
to call for me right now. Somebody has more data?

Clear Skies,

Gert


Re: 29 hours of m27 at 3366mm

drgert1
 

Hi Paul,

--- In ap-gto@yahoogroups.com, Paul Mortfield <paul@...> wrote:
... The majority of detail in this
target is in Ha. There's strong component in OIII but very minor in SII.
...

I am uncertain if the SII is actually from sulfur atoms present in the
target. We all know that the universe is Hydrogen and Helium and the
OIII comes from the CNO process in stellar fusion. But is there enough
sulfur from stellar evolution to feed that spectral line to a
noteworthy intensity? Could there be continuum light picked up by the
SII filter? Or a 'leak' from the nearby very intense HII?? Too tough
to call for me right now. Somebody has more data?

Clear Skies,

Gert


Re: How to measure amps, please?

Jim Buchanan
 

Interesting you should mention that. I am currently working with an
older digital meter that doesn't have the 10A setting, and when all
hooked up, the A-P control box says "low battery" when its a strong
12V. I wondered if the ammeter was zapping volts somehow.

So, I now have a second cig lighter cord that has the positive wire
cut and goes to 2 banana plugs. If I connect the 2 bananas, then the
curcuit is complete and the A-P hand controller fires up normal with
a red LED on the control box.

But, if I plug the 2 bananas into the older ammeter, then I get
yellow LED and low battery alert.

Then, I have a #2 cheap digital meter with the 10A socket, I'm not
getting anywhere with.

The cheap digital #2 meter with the 10A socket, allows the mount to
work properly, but doesn't give reasonable readout.

Maybe the fuse is blown or I need to get a more expensive meter?

Thanks, again.
Jim

--- In ap-gto@yahoogroups.com, Rick Thurmond <yahoogroups@...> wrote:

Jim,
Do you have a digital or analog meter? Does your meter have
something like a 10A setting? In that setting the voltage drop
through the meter is as low as possible.

Rick

On Aug 5, 2007, at 9:36 AM, Jim Buchanan wrote:

Thanks you Richard and Rick for your help.

I'm getting there. I now understand the ammeter completes the
curcuit.
I've made an adapter that goes between the A-P control box and
the A-P
power cord with one line cut to go through the ammeter. It works
on a
simple battery-light curcuit.

My problem is getting a motor stall/yellow light upon mount power-
on.
I'm checking the plug connections for loose contact.

Jim.




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


N-S not working

peturnielsen
 

setting up tonight. everything working except the N/S buttons on the
HC do not work - everything was find couple of nights ago

Petur


Re: How to measure amps, please?

tucstargzr
 

Brian,

Is there a way you could scan that into the files section?

TIA

Tom

--- In ap-gto@yahoogroups.com, "bguerin1234" <zapkgbg@...> wrote:

Jim,

I have a diagram of how to hook up your multimeter to your Mach1 to
measure the amp draw. Email me a number and I'll fax you the
diagram.

Brian


--- In ap-gto@yahoogroups.com, "Jim Buchanan"
<jim_buchanan2423707@>
wrote:

I have been trying to measure the amps of this Mach1 for
balancing
the
OTA, and I must be missing something. Any help would be
appreciated.

Does the ammeter/2-leads act as one of the 2 power wires going to
the
Mach1 control box? Or does the ammeter/2-leads act in parallel to
one
of the 2 power wires going to the Mach1 control box? Or none of
the
above?

I am using the A-P supplied power cord with cig lighter plugged
into
a
15amp power supply.

Thanks, Jim.


Re: How to measure amps, please?

Rick Thurmond
 

Jim,
Do you have a digital or analog meter? Does your meter have
something like a 10A setting? In that setting the voltage drop
through the meter is as low as possible.

Rick

On Aug 5, 2007, at 9:36 AM, Jim Buchanan wrote:

Thanks you Richard and Rick for your help.

I'm getting there. I now understand the ammeter completes the curcuit.
I've made an adapter that goes between the A-P control box and the A-P
power cord with one line cut to go through the ammeter. It works on a
simple battery-light curcuit.

My problem is getting a motor stall/yellow light upon mount power-on.
I'm checking the plug connections for loose contact.

Jim.



Re: 29 hours of m27 at 3366mm

ayiomamitis
 

Paul,

I would also like to echo my sentiments surrounding those wonderful
images. Good stuff!

Anthony.

--- In ap-gto@yahoogroups.com, "Ray Gralak" <rgr@...> wrote:

Paul those images are all very nice. I think they reinforce that
something must
be wrong with Richard's setup if it took 29 hours of exposure to get
the image
he posted. Hopefully this will prompt him to find the problem.

-Ray


Re: 29 hours of m27 at 3366mm

Ray Gralak <rgr@...>
 

Paul those images are all very nice. I think they reinforce that something must
be wrong with Richard's setup if it took 29 hours of exposure to get the image
he posted. Hopefully this will prompt him to find the problem.

-Ray

-----Original Message-----
From: ap-gto@yahoogroups.com [mailto:ap-gto@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Paul Mortfield
Sent: Sunday, August 05, 2007 8:50 AM
To: ap-gto@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [ap-gto] Re: 29 hours of m27 at 3366mm

Hi Richard,
I was gonna add similar comment to Ray's on depth of the image for
the hours spent.

http://www.backyardastronomer.com/ccd-images/m27/M27-SII-Ha-OI
II.jpg <http://www.backyardastronomer.com/ccd-images/m27/M27-> SII-Ha-OIII.jpg>

3 hours, taken in July 2005. (same palette as yours)
here's with the RCOS16" @f/6.7 on trusty old ST10xme, with Astrodon
6nm SII, Ha, OIII filters, combined using the hubble palette. 3hr
total, 1hr per channel (3x20min). This was a second light image
getting the system up and working in its new backyard in light
polluted (mag 3.5 at best) skies. ST10 though has much smaller
pixels (6.8u) versus the TK1024, and still nicely has 85% QE in Ha.

a little more stretching revealed the outer halo in the shot. Though
not the intent of the "pretty picture" image above, the detail was
there in the 60min Ha.
http://www.backyardastronomer.com/ccd-images/m27/M27-SII-Ha-OI
II-test2.jpg <http://www.backyardastronomer.com/ccd->
images/m27/M27-SII-Ha-OIII-test2.jpg>

so what "detail" are you seeing. The majority of detail in this
target is in Ha. There's strong component in OIII but very
minor in SII.
http://www.backyardastronomer.com/ccd-images/Sum%20M27-SII-1-d
dps-test.jpg <http://www.backyardastronomer.com/ccd-images/Sum%>
20M27-SII-1-ddps-test.jpg> SII
http://www.backyardastronomer.com/ccd-images/Sum%20m27-ha3x-1-
ddps1.jpg
<http://www.backyardastronomer.com/ccd-images/Sum%20m27-ha3x-1
-ddps1.jpg> Ha
http://www.backyardastronomer.com/ccd-images/Sum%20M27-OIII-2-
ddps-test.jpg
<http://www.backyardastronomer.com/ccd-images/Sum%20M27-OIII-2
-ddps-test.jpg>
OIII

5hrs of Ha for fun last summer under a full moon and hot humid
conditions not perfect for serious imaging. ie camera running at -10C
http://www.backyardastronomer.com/ccd-images/m27-5hrs-web1.jpg
<http://www.backyardastronomer.com/ccd-images/m27-5hrs-web1.jpg>
clearly shows the extent of the halo, but again H-alpha data.

of course having fun with other palettes.
http://www.backyardastronomer.com/ccd-images/m27/M27-OIII-Ha-S
II.jpg <http://www.backyardastronomer.com/ccd-images/m27/M27-> OIII-Ha-SII.jpg>

fun palette
http://www.backyardastronomer.com/ccd-images/m27/M27-Ha-OIII-S
II.jpg <http://www.backyardastronomer.com/ccd-images/m27/M27-Ha-> OIII-SII.jpg>

CFHT palette.

cheers,
...paul.





Re: 29 hours of m27 at 3366mm

John Gleason
 

Hey Paul,

We don't see many images from you, but your M27 blew me out of my seat this morning. I think some of us who have moved to those big arrays have forgotten just how good the ST10 is!

Cheers,

jg

-----Original Message-----
From: Paul Mortfield <paul@BackyardAstronomer.com>
Sent: Aug 6, 2007 1:49 AM
To: ap-gto@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [ap-gto] Re: 29 hours of m27 at 3366mm

Hi Richard,
I was gonna add similar comment to Ray's on depth of the image for
the hours spent.

http://www.backyardastronomer.com/ccd-images/m27/M27-SII-Ha-OIII.jpg
3 hours, taken in July 2005. (same palette as yours)
here's with the RCOS16" @f/6.7 on trusty old ST10xme, with Astrodon
6nm SII, Ha, OIII filters, combined using the hubble palette. 3hr
total, 1hr per channel (3x20min). This was a second light image
getting the system up and working in its new backyard in light
polluted (mag 3.5 at best) skies. ST10 though has much smaller
pixels (6.8u) versus the TK1024, and still nicely has 85% QE in Ha.

a little more stretching revealed the outer halo in the shot. Though
not the intent of the "pretty picture" image above, the detail was
there in the 60min Ha.
http://www.backyardastronomer.com/ccd-images/m27/M27-SII-Ha-OIII-test2.jpg

so what "detail" are you seeing. The majority of detail in this
target is in Ha. There's strong component in OIII but very minor in SII.
http://www.backyardastronomer.com/ccd-images/Sum%20M27-SII-1-ddps-test.jpg SII
http://www.backyardastronomer.com/ccd-images/Sum%20m27-ha3x-1-ddps1.jpg Ha
http://www.backyardastronomer.com/ccd-images/Sum%20M27-OIII-2-ddps-test.jpg
OIII

5hrs of Ha for fun last summer under a full moon and hot humid
conditions not perfect for serious imaging. ie camera running at -10C
http://www.backyardastronomer.com/ccd-images/m27-5hrs-web1.jpg
clearly shows the extent of the halo, but again H-alpha data.

of course having fun with other palettes.
http://www.backyardastronomer.com/ccd-images/m27/M27-OIII-Ha-SII.jpg
fun palette
http://www.backyardastronomer.com/ccd-images/m27/M27-Ha-OIII-SII.jpg
CFHT palette.

cheers,
...paul.


Re: How to measure amps, please?

Jim Buchanan
 

Thanks you Richard and Rick for your help.

I'm getting there. I now understand the ammeter completes the curcuit.
I've made an adapter that goes between the A-P control box and the A-P
power cord with one line cut to go through the ammeter. It works on a
simple battery-light curcuit.

My problem is getting a motor stall/yellow light upon mount power-on.
I'm checking the plug connections for loose contact.

Jim.


Re: How to measure amps, please?

Brian Guerin
 

Jim,

I have a diagram of how to hook up your multimeter to your Mach1 to
measure the amp draw. Email me a number and I'll fax you the diagram.

Brian


--- In ap-gto@yahoogroups.com, "Jim Buchanan" <jim_buchanan2423707@...>
wrote:

I have been trying to measure the amps of this Mach1 for balancing
the
OTA, and I must be missing something. Any help would be appreciated.

Does the ammeter/2-leads act as one of the 2 power wires going to the
Mach1 control box? Or does the ammeter/2-leads act in parallel to one
of the 2 power wires going to the Mach1 control box? Or none of the
above?

I am using the A-P supplied power cord with cig lighter plugged into
a
15amp power supply.

Thanks, Jim.


Re: 29 hours of m27 at 3366mm

Paul M
 

Hi Richard,
I was gonna add similar comment to Ray's on depth of the image for the hours spent.

http://www.backyardastronomer.com/ccd-images/m27/M27-SII-Ha-OIII.jpg 3 hours, taken in July 2005. (same palette as yours)
here's with the RCOS16" @f/6.7 on trusty old ST10xme, with Astrodon 6nm SII, Ha, OIII filters, combined using the hubble palette. 3hr total, 1hr per channel (3x20min). This was a second light image getting the system up and working in its new backyard in light polluted (mag 3.5 at best) skies. ST10 though has much smaller pixels (6.8u) versus the TK1024, and still nicely has 85% QE in Ha.

a little more stretching revealed the outer halo in the shot. Though not the intent of the "pretty picture" image above, the detail was there in the 60min Ha.
http://www.backyardastronomer.com/ccd-images/m27/M27-SII-Ha-OIII-test2.jpg

so what "detail" are you seeing. The majority of detail in this target is in Ha. There's strong component in OIII but very minor in SII.
http://www.backyardastronomer.com/ccd-images/Sum%20M27-SII-1-ddps-test.jpg SII
http://www.backyardastronomer.com/ccd-images/Sum%20m27-ha3x-1-ddps1.jpg Ha
http://www.backyardastronomer.com/ccd-images/Sum%20M27-OIII-2-ddps-test.jpg OIII

5hrs of Ha for fun last summer under a full moon and hot humid conditions not perfect for serious imaging. ie camera running at -10C
http://www.backyardastronomer.com/ccd-images/m27-5hrs-web1.jpg clearly shows the extent of the halo, but again H-alpha data.

of course having fun with other palettes.
http://www.backyardastronomer.com/ccd-images/m27/M27-OIII-Ha-SII.jpg fun palette
http://www.backyardastronomer.com/ccd-images/m27/M27-Ha-OIII-SII.jpg CFHT palette.

cheers,
...paul.


New product idea

Jeff Young <jey@...>
 

Roland & Marj --

Here's something for you to consider: a short adapter which has the
male servo plug on one end and a female servo socket on the other, with
4 small holes similar to a headphones socket which interrupt the motor
wires in Dec and RA.

You'd plug the adapter into your servo, and your Y-cable (or 600
straight cable) into the other side. It'd function as normal this
way. You could then insert probes from a multimeter into a pair of the
headphones-like sockets, which would interrupt either the RA or Dec
circuit and send the signal through the multimeter for current
measuring.

Perhaps the market wouldn't be big enough to justify it, but people do
like to buy interesting accessories to go with their new kit, so who
knows....

-- Jeff.


power question for GTO

neilhfolberg <neilhfolberg@...>
 

Just one question: I've got 7 AH 12v batteries as power supply for a
new mach1: would it be better to wire two batteries together to make
sure the batteries don't die out during a night of use? I would assume
the GTO functions would use a lot more power than the manual G11 I
have been running on one single 7AH 12V battery until now for an
entire night.

Thanks,
Neil Folberg


Re: 29 hours of m27 at 3366mm

Ray Gralak <rgr@...>
 

You just can't beat those TK1024 chips and other
such similar chips for going really deep. The combination of the high
QE, the deep wells and the big pixels really makes for a fast camera
that is just wonderful for deep emission line imaging with tight
filters.
http://www.narrowbandimaging.com/m27_mk1sn2_dm_geg_cs4_s2hao3_page.htm
Hmmm... it doesn't seem THAT deep for 29 hours.

As a comparison here's my Halpha shot from New Mexico Skies. This shot is only 2
hours total of HAlpha with my 160EDF (1/3rd the aperture of your 18") and an
"inferior" STL-11000M. I think it shows the same faint shell structure that your
29 hour image shows.

And maybe the seeing was soft or the focus was drifting with temperature a
little too?? The refractor seems to show tighter stars and more detail in M27. I
would expect an 18" to be the sharper of the two??

http://www.gralak.com/Astro/M27-AP160-HA-120mins-Cropped-100.jpg

-Ray Gralak


Re: How to measure amps, please?

Rick Thurmond
 

I just did this today with my 1200. Here's what I did:
I got a part from Radio shack that has two big clips connected to a
female cigarette lighter by about a foot of wire. I also got two
banana plugs. (banana plugs are the most common size that fits into
volt meters)

Cut one of the wires, doesn't really matter which one, but I cut the
one attached to the red clip. Pull the cut ends away from the other
wire a few inches, strip the two ends 5/8 inch and solder or
otherwise attach them to the banana plugs.

Plug the two banana plugs into your meter. Doesn't really matter
which way. Some meters have a different set of banana jacks for
measuring high current from the ones you use for volts and ohms. On
my meter there is one jack marked 10A and I used that one and the common

Now clip the red lead to the + terminal and the black lead to the -
terminal of your battery or power supply and plug in your mount into
the cig lighter socket. Set the meter to measure DC current or
amps. The mount should power up and the meter will show the
current. Current is like the flow of water, so imagine that it flows
from the + lead of the power supply, through the meter, through the
mount, then back to the - terminal of the power supply. (ok,
electrical engineers, I know it flows the other way, but the concept
is the same)

At that point I got the mount into the most challenging position,
with both axes nearly horizontal and at 64x or 600x run it first
north then south. North took more current, meaning the mirror end
was too heavy, so I added some weight to the front. Then I ran the
mount east and west, and found that when the weights are rising it
took less current than when the telescope was rising, so I moved the
weights down a little bit until it was about even.

I hope that helps. I figured it was worth buying some parts for
because I intend to balance it again for different setups, and I
don't want to hold the volt meter with two hands while I press the
buttons on the mount with the other two hands.

Rick

On Aug 4, 2007, at 11:36 AM, Jim Buchanan wrote:

I have been trying to measure the amps of this Mach1 for balancing the
OTA, and I must be missing something. Any help would be appreciated.

Does the ammeter/2-leads act as one of the 2 power wires going to the
Mach1 control box? Or does the ammeter/2-leads act in parallel to one
of the 2 power wires going to the Mach1 control box? Or none of the
above?

I am using the A-P supplied power cord with cig lighter plugged into a
15amp power supply.

Thanks, Jim.



Re: How to measure amps, please?

Richard Crisp <rdcrisp@...>
 

--- In ap-gto@yahoogroups.com, "Jim Buchanan"
<jim_buchanan2423707@...> wrote:

I have been trying to measure the amps of this Mach1 for balancing
the
OTA, and I must be missing something. Any help would be appreciated.

Does the ammeter/2-leads act as one of the 2 power wires going to
the
Mach1 control box? Or does the ammeter/2-leads act in parallel to
one
of the 2 power wires going to the Mach1 control box? Or none of the
above?

I am using the A-P supplied power cord with cig lighter plugged
into a
15amp power supply.

Thanks, Jim.

much in the same way you would measure the flow rate of water, you
put an ammeter in series with the load. So one terminal of the
ammeter connects to the power source and the other terminal connects
to the load.

pay attention to polarity particularly if you are using a mechanical
ammeter with the old fashioned galvanometer type movement. A DVM will
normally tolerate a polarity reversal.

also pay attention to the scale you are using if you are using a
mechanical type meter, Don't measure amps with the milliamp scale!


29 hours of m27 at 3366mm

Richard Crisp <rdcrisp@...>
 

I began this over the July 4th holiday and took my most recent data
last night, Aug 3

This is 12 hours of [SII], 10 hours of [OIII] and 7 hours of Halpha

It was shot using the TK1024 powered FLI Dream Machine camera (1kx1k
@24x24 micron pixels at about 85% QE) using 4.5nm Cust Sci emission
line filters on the Stinger 450 classical cassegrain/AP1200GTO using
a Lumicon Giant Easy Guider with focal reducer for a focal length of
3366mm (~f/7.1). You just can't beat those TK1024 chips and other
such similar chips for going really deep. The combination of the high
QE, the deep wells and the big pixels really makes for a fast camera
that is just wonderful for deep emission line imaging with tight
filters.

I am intrigued by the sulfur channel data (red in this palette). I am
seeing detail I've not seen previously in shallower exposures.

I may take some more exposures, but am getting a bit tired of this
object after shooting it for the past month.

http://www.narrowbandimaging.com/m27_mk1sn2_dm_geg_cs4_s2hao3_page.htm


How to measure amps, please?

Jim Buchanan
 

I have been trying to measure the amps of this Mach1 for balancing the
OTA, and I must be missing something. Any help would be appreciated.

Does the ammeter/2-leads act as one of the 2 power wires going to the
Mach1 control box? Or does the ammeter/2-leads act in parallel to one
of the 2 power wires going to the Mach1 control box? Or none of the
above?

I am using the A-P supplied power cord with cig lighter plugged into a
15amp power supply.

Thanks, Jim.