Sorry I mentioned the glue. I had a similar broke bolt on a piece of equipement, and after I got all the ezz-outs and bits lined up, one of my guys found the bolt was actually loose, even though it

Since the top of the broken stud is 3 mm down in the threaded hole, if glue of any sort is put on top of it and the other piece is threaded in, any excess glue will be forced out of the space between

Pete, If the hole is not blind meaning the broken off blot is not rammed in tight (maybe use a pick and see if it moves). The easiest way I've found to extract a bolt is to use a left hand drill bit.

You can protect the threads from the glue by putting wax at the interface of the bolt and threads. Most glues will not adhear to wax and it forms a fairly good barrier. The thing that troubles me is

There are a number of ways to tackle this if you want to avoid letting a machine shop or AP do it. Based on what you've described I can tell you how I would go about things, given the

The risk with this approach is that if any of the glue gets into the threads of the broken off stub, it could end up acting like a thread locker, making the broken piece difficult to remove at all,

If the screw part that is still in the mount is not stripped or jammed into the thread wall maybe try crazy glueing, or some other strong epoxy, the knob back onto the bolt and let it set for maybe

Sorry Ajai, i complety forgot to mention that i'm using CP3 controller.

I would take it to a shop that can do bolt extractions. I use a guy that has a wire EDM (??) machine I think it is called and he burns them out. But this is with steel cutter heads so not sure if

Indeed the problem is bad... that part I'm holding is supposed to be at least 3/4 of an inch long. The rest is in the mount. Pete has used the pilot punch recipes > > > >

Yup. If you have a CP1 or CP2 controller, never use the Horizon Check. It is broken in the firmware. Ajai _____ From: ap-gto@... [mailto:ap-gto@...] On Behalf Of yves

thanks for the reply Paul does it also control the aximuth for a dome?

http://www.astro-physics.com/tech_support/mounts/protocol-D.pdf

wrote: these commands in CP1 & 2. Here's the language in the doc: ' Note for versions D, KD, E, KE, E1 and KE1: The horizon check command does not work properly. It does work properly in versions C

The command protocol docs state that there are known issues with these commands in CP1 & 2. Here's the language in the doc: ' Note for versions D, KD, E, KE, E1 and KE1: The horizon check command

Richard, Maxim 4.x (or CCDSoft) + CCDAutoPilot3. Works flawlessly night after night after night after night all from thousands of miles away. Including darks, flats and opening/closing the roof.

Stainless steel is notoriously difficult to drill. It will be hard, and compared to the surrounding aluminum it will be extremely hard. That is why an "easy-out" is anything but in this situation.

I am totally confused. If this is the problem, toss it in the garbage and order a new one from AP on Monday. I thought you were talking about the mount having a problem with a broken off threaded

Hi Ajai, I've got plenty of synchronization problem last summer until i decided to uncheck the Use Horizon Check feature in your driver. I was able to slew to objects when they were on the same

I have looked at the code and can't see anything that would cause this. The code is common to all the drivers that I write and so far no issues have been reported. Here is the code. If someone can