I know :V# will return the firmware version. Never seen $V#. When I send $V# nothing is returned from the CP3. William

I'm pretty sure that's not a command. I believe it should be $V# Rolando

You should be able to get polar alignment good enough and keep it so with a solid tripod. Once aligned, I have not seen a tripod change the polar alignment. Good polar alignment for imaging should

When I try and connect SkySafari 6 to my AP 900 GTOCP3 firmware V2 the mount does not respond. The data being sent is $$$:V# what does the $$$ command do? I am using a serial bluetooth adapter that

Ahh, that would do it! The only app I had connected was APJog, which I used for nudging. In the future I will get the moon framed and disconnect APJog before hitting the button. If I am gong to do

Thank you again Roland for your personal time here. I think what you're telling me is that by drift aligning, and then adjusting your polar scope to put polaris in the correct position based on the

Congratulations Wayne, this is great news! I can't wait to try the updated settings. I've never done the delay between pulses either, but it certainly makes sense. Thanks to Roland for the guiding

FYI in recent releases, PHD can recognize if you are using encoders, and changes the default algorithm to lowpass2 for precisely the reasons Roland outlined when you use the new profile wizard, it

Thanks Roland. Of your suggestions, I’ll I’ve done so far is add a 1500 ms delay between 3 second exposures and getting the best guiding I’ve ever seen by far as I am live stacking M94 in

The RA and Dec drift rates indicate fairly large Polar Alignment error. It means your Polemaster is giving you a significant PA error for whatever reason. That's why I don't rely on electronic devices

hello Wayne, One setting I recommend for Encoder Mounts is to use a 1.5 to 2 second delay time between guide exposures. Click on the little brain in PHD2 and bring up the Advanced Setting/Camera

Yeah it's shorter than the standard 1.125" shaft. It's actually a design feature of the Mach1 that you can remove the saddle from the top of the dec axis to expose the center hole that goes down

Yep I have a bunch of CW's for my 1100. I ordered the same size shaft that the 1100 has and the stop for it. Looking at the upgraded Az adjustment plate. If its a pain to adjust this, I may buy that.

Bill, Yes. That’s all you need – so long as you already have the proper CW’s. Woody

Bill, I don’t know the size of the 1100 CW’s, but I got the larger shaft for my Mach1. I think it’s about 1 ¾” diameter. The only other thing you might need is the endcap – if the

I picked up the long 1.875" shaft and another stop. Should be good to go. 🙂

Grats on the expansing A-P arsenal. Yeah, you need to get one of the three varieties of 1.875" diameter CW shafts here: https://www.astro-physics.com/mach1-upgrades-parts/ If your Mach1 came with CW

You just need the bar that fits the opening in the counterweight , nothing more. I have had mine for many many years and I love it! Not sure about the scope. I use mine for AP 130 F/8.35 and AP 155

Hey all, Just picked up a used Mach 1 mount to take place of my Paramount MyT I had as my second mount. Nothing against the MyT, I just like my A-P mounts better. Anyhow, I want to be able to use the

Ray, that explains it exactly - thanks! In fact I did have a new site I created and not entered the coordinates. I bet it was the active site when I booted up.