Date   

Re: semi-OT: deterring critters in the obsy

ap@CaptivePhotons.com
 

Bear in mind the biggest predator of spiders is probably wasps, depending what part of the world you are in.  Be careful of getting rid of all the wasps.

 

Hobson’s choice.  😊

 

If you can figure out what the spiders are eating that may get you closer.  If it’s flying insects, check if you have any light, even infrared light, maybe even warm electronics up in those places that might attract flying insects.  If it’s crawling insects an insecticide barrier may stop their food source.

 

But I find webs even where there’s just no light and seemingly no insects. Tenacious little critters.

 

Nanobots needed (and a NINA plugin to control them).

 


Re: semi-OT: deterring critters in the obsy

Joseph Beyer
 

Right, another synthetic pyrethrin.  The most effective control for hornets/yellow jackets and wasps is to catch one to two, identify the species and hang traps that have a pheromone specific for that species.  It’s pretty easy to tell the difference between them by looking at the head and abdomen banding.  A trap made some doesn’t work on all. 

On Sep 17, 2021, at 1:51 PM, Joel Short <buckeyestargazer@...> wrote:

I do two things.  
1.  Twice per year (early Spring and early Fall) I spray an insecticide called Tempo SC Ultra on the outside walls and perimeter of my roll off roof obs.  This stuff works great, for other areas of the house too.
2.  I put a little bit of peppermint extract in a small spray bottle and once a month I spray the inside of the obs, especially around any cracks.

I haven't seen a spider in years in my obs; wasps are a completely different story.  Nothing deters those buggers.

joel


Re: semi-OT: deterring critters in the obsy

Joel Short
 

I do two things.  
1.  Twice per year (early Spring and early Fall) I spray an insecticide called Tempo SC Ultra on the outside walls and perimeter of my roll off roof obs.  This stuff works great, for other areas of the house too.
2.  I put a little bit of peppermint extract in a small spray bottle and once a month I spray the inside of the obs, especially around any cracks.

I haven't seen a spider in years in my obs; wasps are a completely different story.  Nothing deters those buggers.

joel


Re: semi-OT: deterring critters in the obsy

Joseph Beyer
 

Some of the pyrethrin-based insecticides, which tend to be less toxic to mammals have sustained activity.  In particular there are sprays or formulations that claim to give one to several months of activity.  I use an Ortho product that is called a perimeter defense that is stated to provide 6 months of activity.  After drying it is essentially odorless and from what I've observed seems to be quite effective.  I have a small weather station in my yard and the spiders find it very inviting.  Once or twice a year I'll open it up and wipe a thin coating of the perimeter defense spray inside and it helps a lot in keeping the critters out.

I think the pyrethrin-based insecticides that are used for subterranean termites are even more prolonged in activity since they're injected into the ground around structures.

Joe


Re: Mach 2 Testing

Roland Christen
 

I don't have a 175 here at this time, but I did try a customer's 180. It worked fine, but it really needs to reside on an 1100.

Roland



-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Long <bill@...>
To: AP-GTO Groups. io <ap-gto@groups.io>
Sent: Fri, Sep 17, 2021 2:35 pm
Subject: [ap-gto] Mach 2 Testing

Question for Roland. Did you try the big AP175 on the Mach 2? I am pretty sure I remember the 160 in the tests, but can't recall if the 175 was ever attempted.

Bill

--
Roland Christen
Astro-Physics


Mach 2 Testing

Bill Long
 

Question for Roland. Did you try the big AP175 on the Mach 2? I am pretty sure I remember the 160 in the tests, but can't recall if the 175 was ever attempted.

Bill


Re: Dovelm162 springs too short or assembled wrong?

M Hambrick
 

Hi Linwood

You raise a good point about your C14 not having rings. That changes things quite a bit. As to your question:

Specifically do some of you have the 16” dovetail, which when set up with knobs pointing to the sky, if you loosen the knobs the clamp’s spring stays engaged and holding it against the knob all the way until the clamp clears the saddle’s gap completely? And if you jiggle or press back, it pops back open, clearing the gap.

My clamps exhibit essentially the same behavior as you describe for yours. When I loosen the knobs, the OEM spring is completely uncompressed before the edges of clamps are completely out of the dovetail gap. This has not been a problem for me however because I am not trying to manage a heavy load at the same time I am opening the clamps. For my 180 EDT I mount my SBD16 dovetail plate with rings attached to the DOVELM162 before attaching the scope. For my Stowaway and NP101 scopes I mount the SBD12 with the rings and scope already attached to the DOVELM162. In either case, if the clamps are in the way I can just push them back with one hand while holding onto scope / rings with the other.

Per my earlier post, I tried out some longer springs and they did work as far as pushing the clamps back, but they were a little bit too long and I was worried that they would eject the clamp and knob, so put the original springs back in.

I am still wondering if you would not have an easier time installing your C14 into the dovetail plate from Park 2 instead of Park 3.

Like you, I set up and take down my setup every session. I am always on the lookout for ways to speed up the process.

Mike


semi-OT: deterring critters in the obsy

Dale Ghent
 

I've been running my club's domed observatory for a while now and one of the things I've added is a large machine/tooling dust cover to the setup while it's not in use. It's breathable (there is always air circulating in the obsy with a dehumidifier) and the intent is to keep the various bits of dust and debris that blow in under the dome ring from settling on the OTA and mount. The occasional mud dauber will also find its way in and start constructing its nest on the underside of the dome, raining dirt down on things below. All in all it has been working great for that and the OTA and mount remain quite clean.

One thing I've noticed, though, is that spiders also like the cover and I now find myself having to clear out webs and bits of spider silk more often than I've had to in the past. I like our spider friends as they keep other insects in check, but I just don't like them using a TOA-150 and 1200GTO as a frame for their constructions. I've been thinking of chemical deterrents and have thought of hanging a cotton bag with a block of camphor in it underneath the rig, but I'm not sure if that's the best maneuver or even wise given the outgassing of camphor. Mothballs are right out due to all their carcinogenic reasons. Has anyone had this problem before and have found a suitable deterrent?

/dale


Slight Slop in the RA Axis of My Mach2

davidcfinch9
 

Hello Ray,
I have a slight "slop" (similar to backlash) in my RA axis when I apply light pressure in rocking the telescope back in forth, which I believe is due to insufficient mesh between the worm gear and worm wheel. The "slop" amounts to about 1/64" of play at the end of the counterweight shaft. All of the RA and DEC clutch knobs are fully tightened. I removed the RA gear box cover and everything appeared to be "normal." There is no such "slop" in the DEC axis.
Is there anything that I can do to tighten things up?
Regards,
David C. Finch


Re: Dovelm162 springs too short or assembled wrong?

Woody Schlom
 

Knobs up or sideways not a problem.  All my springs and clamps still work as they always have – and should.  Well, I think so.  Haven’t used that mount in a couple of years now.

 

Woody

 

From: main@ap-gto.groups.io [mailto:main@ap-gto.groups.io] On Behalf Of ap@...
Sent: Friday, September 17, 2021 6:36 AM
To: main@ap-gto.groups.io
Subject: Re: [ap-gto] Dovelm162 springs too short or assembled wrong?

 

M Hambrick wrote:

 

Ø  Hi Linwood

I used to mount my 180 EDT scope while the mount was in Park 3 until Roland suggested that having the mount in Park 2 makes it much much easier to mount the scope. He was right. The best way to do this for heavier scopes is to leave the rings attached to the dovetail plate and clamped to the saddle with the opening in the rings facing the south side. Then you place the scope into the rings. You may need a short step stool to facilitate doing this. Once the scope is sitting in the rings it will not fall out. You can then fine tune the position before clamping the rings. I think you can also leave the OTA attached to the rings and dovetail plate as you do and it is still easier to mount in Park 2. 

 

I appreciate the approach, but my heavier OTA is a C11 (with train about 40#) and has no rings, just a dovetail screwed to the OTA side.  Changing to mounting rings and a long solid Dovetail would add probably 15 pounds to the setup (based on Bisque’s rings).  I see where it’s possible with my TV NP101is, but it would be pretty tedious compared to just sitting it into the saddle and tightening (plus the 101 is really light in comparison).

 

Because I set up and tear down every (clear) night, every little bit of time saved helps.  For that reason I also try to leave the imaging train attached when I remove the OTA, so the rotation is still set for the next night (assuming same target; manual rotation only for me).

 

---

 

So this relatively little spring issue spurred more interest than I expect and I am now curious.  It sounds like the manufacture is unchanged, but also people indicate they don’t have the issue.  Is it that the issue is moot, or it doesn’t exist?


Specifically do some of you have the 16” dovetail, which when set up with knobs pointing to the sky, if you loosen the knobs the clamp’s spring stays engaged and holding it against the knob all the way until the clamp clears the saddle’s gap completely? And if you jiggle or press back, it pops back open, clearing the gap.

 

On mine if I do that the spring stops holding it with the clamp extending into the saddle’s gap by about 1/8”, enough to keep a dovetail from dropping in.  It’s really about that close, it is not much.

 

But some of you have versions where that is not true?   Or just your use makes it moot (e.g. knobs down it would not matter)?

 

 

 

 

 


Re: Smart Meridian Flip with NINA #APCC

Dale Ghent
 

Good to hear, Joseph.

I'll make sure to update my docs to explain the configuration further.

On Sep 17, 2021, at 11:25, Joseph Beyer <jcbeyer2001@...> wrote:

Thanks for checking back. After changing my APCC parameters to match those in your video everything works fine.


Re: Smart Meridian Flip with NINA #APCC

Joseph Beyer
 

Thanks for checking back.  After changing my APCC parameters to match those in your video everything works fine. 


Re: Dovelm162 springs too short or assembled wrong?

Tom Blahovici
 

I'm the OP and this is exactly the case with mine.
Just for people reading this, if you are doing this with the clams down you will not have an issue, however you should try it with the clamps up. It is vastly easier and more secure.
I start by placing the saddle horizontal with the clamps up. You can then take the complete telescope, rings and dovetail and just position it so the lower groove engages the groove on the saddle. This is already more secure than the other way around, with the clamps down since there is no groove on that side. You can then with one hand just push on the whole scope until it contacts the saddle plate and then the other hand can just tighten the clamps.
Of course if the clamps don't open enough then they get in the way.
Tom


Re: SpaceX from Charleston, SC

Jeff B
 

pretty cool, especially its proximity to the moon.


Re: Dovelm162 springs too short or assembled wrong?

ap@CaptivePhotons.com
 

M Hambrick wrote:

 

  • Hi Linwood

    I used to mount my 180 EDT scope while the mount was in Park 3 until Roland suggested that having the mount in Park 2 makes it much much easier to mount the scope. He was right. The best way to do this for heavier scopes is to leave the rings attached to the dovetail plate and clamped to the saddle with the opening in the rings facing the south side. Then you place the scope into the rings. You may need a short step stool to facilitate doing this. Once the scope is sitting in the rings it will not fall out. You can then fine tune the position before clamping the rings. I think you can also leave the OTA attached to the rings and dovetail plate as you do and it is still easier to mount in Park 2. 

 

I appreciate the approach, but my heavier OTA is a C11 (with train about 40#) and has no rings, just a dovetail screwed to the OTA side.  Changing to mounting rings and a long solid Dovetail would add probably 15 pounds to the setup (based on Bisque’s rings).  I see where it’s possible with my TV NP101is, but it would be pretty tedious compared to just sitting it into the saddle and tightening (plus the 101 is really light in comparison).

 

Because I set up and tear down every (clear) night, every little bit of time saved helps.  For that reason I also try to leave the imaging train attached when I remove the OTA, so the rotation is still set for the next night (assuming same target; manual rotation only for me).

 

---

 

So this relatively little spring issue spurred more interest than I expect and I am now curious.  It sounds like the manufacture is unchanged, but also people indicate they don’t have the issue.  Is it that the issue is moot, or it doesn’t exist?


Specifically do some of you have the 16” dovetail, which when set up with knobs pointing to the sky, if you loosen the knobs the clamp’s spring stays engaged and holding it against the knob all the way until the clamp clears the saddle’s gap completely? And if you jiggle or press back, it pops back open, clearing the gap.

 

On mine if I do that the spring stops holding it with the clamp extending into the saddle’s gap by about 1/8”, enough to keep a dovetail from dropping in.  It’s really about that close, it is not much.

 

But some of you have versions where that is not true?   Or just your use makes it moot (e.g. knobs down it would not matter)?

 

 

 

 

 


SpaceX from Charleston, SC

thefamily90 Phillips
 


Re: My brand new AP1100 - play in both RA and DEC axis

Horia
 

As recommended by Roland, I was able to eliminate the worm play on both axes by adjusting the backstop. I also had a talk with Howard to clarify some details re. the DEC axis and greasing. Thank you both very much for the assistance.

 

On the RA axis I only needed to loosen the two screws and to apply the slightest pressure on the lever holder for it to move in position. After tightening the screws, the play was gone.

 

On the DEC axis I had to repeat the process four times before I could correct the play. Only after applying some pressure on the lever holder and a lot of wiggling was I able to bring it into the right position. Interestingly, in the beginning, the lever itself refused to move the complete 180° to release the worm. In the open position, it looked like this:

 

 

 

After that, I loaded the mount with a telescope, balanced it and slewed it all around the sky. Everything seems to be normal now. Could not yet do a test-run under the stars.  

 

Just for the record, the mount is brand new, it left Astro-Physics on August 26-th and I am the first one to open the boxes.

 

Kind Regards,

Horia

 

 

Von: main@ap-gto.groups.io <main@ap-gto.groups.io> Im Auftrag von Roland Christen via groups.io
Gesendet: Dienstag, 14. September 2021 21:41
An: main@ap-gto.groups.io
Cc: howard@...
Betreff: Re: [ap-gto] My brand new AP1100 - play in both RA and DEC axis

 

Hello,

You did not get this mount directly from us at Astro-Physics. We shipped this mount in February, and we never ship things loosely in the box, so whoever shipped it to you did not pack it correctly.

 

The play that you see on the worm wheel is not normal. It appears that the worm is not fully engaged with the worm wheel. If you open the side cover you will see a lever. It is almost certain that the previous person loosened the two screws on the backstop adjustment, which allows the worm to come out of mesh. Please read the instructions in the manual for adjusting the backstop on our spring loaded gearbox.

 

If you need more help, please consult with Howard at AP.

 

Roland Christen

Astro-Physics Inc.

 

-----Original Message-----
From: Horia <ATM@...>
To: main@ap-gto.groups.io
Sent: Tue, Sep 14, 2021 1:13 pm
Subject: [ap-gto] My brand new AP1100 - play in both RA and DEC axis

Today I got the chance to take my  AP1100 mount out of the wrappings and set it up on the pier.

 

  1. The altitude bar was completely loose inside the RA-axis box and managed to produce some deep scars on the coating of the side walls of the polar fork. I would suggest to put it in a bubble wrap before dropping it in there.

 

  1. Both the RA and the DEC axis have some (a lot of) play between the worm and the worm wheel.  An iPhone movie showing a close up of the worm wheel on the DEC axis:

 

 

I do not think this is as expected. How do I get rid of it?

 

Kind regards,

Horia

 


--
Roland Christen
Astro-Physics


Re: Smart Meridian Flip with NINA #APCC

Dale Ghent
 

I've been away from my email for much of the week. Is this still an issue? There was a recent update to both NINA and the SMF plugin, so be sure to have those installed.

On Sep 12, 2021, at 12:12, Joseph Beyer <jcbeyer2001@...> wrote:

Was imaging last night with my Mach1/CP4/APCC Pro mount and when it came time for a meridian flip, the flip didn't occur at the time indicated in the NINA sequencer and several minutes later the mount stopped tracking - which was the correct action as indicated in the Meridian Tracking Limits Operation box). I parked and unparked the mount and immediately NINA flipped the mount and I was off and running again. I've got everything setup in NINA as per Dale's instructions so I suspect I haven't selected the correct parameter(s) in the Meridian tab in APCC Pro. I thought I'd start addressing potential conflicts in APCC then check in with the NINA development team once I knew the APCC parameters were correct.

I watched Dale's video this morning and the differences in parameters in his APCC and mine are the following:

1) In the "Operation" box I have Counterweight UP Slews within: East limits and West limits boxes checked. Maybe this is the problem?

2) In the "Meridian Delay" box, Dale's video shows the Override ASCOM box checked whereas mine is not.

Everything else operated very smoothly all night.

Joe





Re: APPM - error

Dale Ghent
 

It's not entirely clear what your full APPM configuration is, but here's what you should generally have:

1. Make sure your local copy of ASTAP is updated
2. In NINA, make sure Enable Server is On
3. In APPM, set Camera to NINA
4. In APPM, review the exposure settings. I run my QHY600 with bin2, full frame.
5. The only difference between the default ASTAP settings in APPM is that I limit to 500 stars instead of the default of 1000.

On Sep 16, 2021, at 21:42, Ron Kramer <ronkramer1957@...> wrote:

WORKED on it all night - giving up. I couldn't get APPM to work with ASTAP. Oddly - another solver in APPM setup is "SGP"? That's now a solver that's a program like NINA setup with a solver. Why can't I select NINA (setup to solve with ASTAP?) As that works perfectly. I've never had it not solve until I tried solving through APPM with the 106.00 update I bought. = (


On Thu, Sep 16, 2021 at 6:55 PM Ron Kramer via groups.io <ronkramer1957@...> wrote:
SEtup but still light out. I clicked this test button. I loaded a APPM pic from last night and it loaded and solved under 3 seconds.

All I changed was bin from 1 to 2. I'll try live tonight and update with my results.
<APPM capture57.png>





--
Ron Kramer
https://www.facebook.com/Ron.R.Kramer


Re: Dovelm162 springs too short or assembled wrong?

M Hambrick
 

Hi Linwood

I used to mount my 180 EDT scope while the mount was in Park 3 until Roland suggested that having the mount in Park 2 makes it much much easier to mount the scope. He was right. The best way to do this for heavier scopes is to leave the rings attached to the dovetail plate and clamped to the saddle with the opening in the rings facing the south side. Then you place the scope into the rings. You may need a short step stool to facilitate doing this. Once the scope is sitting in the rings it will not fall out. You can then fine tune the position before clamping the rings. I think you can also leave the OTA attached to the rings and dovetail plate as you do and it is still easier to mount in Park 2. 

Mike

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