Date   

Re: Slight Slop in the RA Axis of My Mach2

davidcfinch9
 

Roland,

Thank you, success! Although it appeared that the pivot bolt was too LOOSE. At any rate, I jockeyed the pivot bolt around so that I got good mesh while still allowing the gears to come slightly out of mesh when pushing down on the back of the motor. With everything back together, there is no longer any “slop” in the axis.

And thank you for the quick response.

Regards,

David C. Finch

 

From: main@ap-gto.groups.io <main@ap-gto.groups.io> On Behalf Of Roland Christen via groups.io
Sent: Friday, September 17, 2021 6:20 PM
To: main@ap-gto.groups.io
Cc: george@...; howard@...; marj@...; karen@...; dave@...
Subject: Re: [ap-gto] Slight Slop in the RA Axis of My Mach2

 

Hello Dave,

 

Your pivot bolt might be too tight which is preventing the worm from pivoting fully into mesh. It's an easy adjustment.

Remove the outer motor box cover and set it aside with its 4 screws.

Remove the 4 screws that hold the inner cover and put those screws aside in another place, but do not mix them with the outer screws!

Now slide the inner cover back and out of the way to expose the worm assembly. You don't need to remove it entirely.

 

First make sure that the 3 Allen screws that hold the motor assembly to the RA axis are fully tight. If they are, then proceed with the next step:

 

Referring to the image below, loosen the locking screw #1 (5/64 Allen Key). Then with a 1/4" Allen key loosen the pivot bolt #2 about 1/2 turn ccw while gently pushing on the counterweight shaft in the RA direction. Gently! not with guerilla force please. It should stiffen up as the worm mates with the worm wheel teeth. Once it is in full mesh, tighten the pivot bolt a small amount and again feel the RA axis to make sure that it is meshed. You can then push down on the top back of the motor to bring the worm slightly out of mesh, then let go to allow the springs to pop the worm teeth back into mesh. The motor assembly should be able to rotate slightly in and out of mesh when you apply force to the back of the motor.

 

If everything feels right, re-tighten the locking screw. Then replace the inner motor cover with the shorter 4 screws (very important that you do not use the outer cover screws!!) Finish by replacing the outer cover.

 

Roland Christen

Astro-Physics Inc.

 

 

 

 

-----Original Message-----
From: davidcfinch9 via groups.io <DF121819@...>
To: main@ap-gto.groups.io
Sent: Fri, Sep 17, 2021 2:07 pm
Subject: [ap-gto] Slight Slop in the RA Axis of My Mach2

Hello Ray,

I have a slight "slop" (similar to backlash) in my RA axis when I apply light pressure in rocking the telescope back in forth, which I believe is due to insufficient mesh between the worm gear and worm wheel. The "slop" amounts to about 1/64" of play at the end of the counterweight shaft. All of the RA and DEC clutch knobs are fully tightened. I removed the RA gear box cover and everything appeared to be "normal." There is no such "slop" in the DEC axis.

Is there anything that I can do to tighten things up?

Regards,

David C. Finch

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


--
Roland Christen
Astro-Physics


Re: Dovelm162 springs too short or assembled wrong?

skester@...
 

I have the same issue described here but with the DOVEDV10 plate I received with my 1100GTO in April of this year.  The springs run out of travel before the clamps have fully retracted.  It's not a big deal for me as I mount the scope rings first and simply push the clamps all the way back prior to doing so.  But I wanted AP to be aware the same issue is occurring with the 10" dovetail plate.


Re: semi-OT: deterring critters in the obsy

M Hambrick
 

Hi Dale

I used to feel the same as you about spiders and left them alone so they would eat the other insects. That was a mistake. Once they get a foothold they are hard to get rid of. 

As for wasps and hornets, the mud daubers are the worst. It is very difficult to completely remove the residue from their mud nests. I suggest aggressively controlling these insects.

I like pyrethrin insecticides, but the Ortho Home Defense spray also seems to be pretty effective at controlling many insects, but I am not sure about spiders. If you spray the perimeter of the observatory inside and out a couple times a year at ground level and where the roof retracts that should help.

Spiders don't like light. you could also consider adding some windows and leave the shades up except when you are observing.

Mike


Re: AP1200 rotating pier adapter

Luke Dodd
 

Hi Mike,

 

Great help thanks, I will order the SPA

 

Regards Luke

 

Sent from Mail for Windows

 

From: Mike Dodd
Sent: Saturday, 18 September 2021 11:13 AM
To: main@ap-gto.groups.io
Subject: Re: [ap-gto] AP1200 rotating pier adapter

 

On 9/17/2021 8:11 PM, Luke Dodd wrote:

> What is available to mount the AP1200 onto a

> permanent pier.

 

I have a 1200, and use the SPA Standard Pier Adapter

<https://www.astro-physics.com/900spa> to mount it on my concrete pier.

The pier is 12" diameter, but reduces to 10" at the top, and the SPA

attaches to 5/8" threaded steel rods embedded in that.

 

This link: <http://astronomy.mdodd.com/observatory.html#PierBolts>

illustrates and describes what I did.

 

One note: The cap screws attaching the SPA to the rods are 1/4"-20. I

drilled a #11 hole in one end of each rod, then tapped that for 1/4"-20.

This hole should be coaxial with the rod, so a vise on a drill press is

helpful. I'm fortunate to have a mini-lathe, so I chucked the rod in the

lathe, and easily drilled coaxial holes.

 

My SPA is circa 2005, and I don't know if the current one is the same.

 

--- Mike

http://astronomy.mdodd.com

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


Re: AP1200 rotating pier adapter

Mike Dodd
 

On 9/17/2021 8:11 PM, Luke Dodd wrote:
What is available to mount the AP1200 onto a
permanent pier.
I have a 1200, and use the SPA Standard Pier Adapter <https://www.astro-physics.com/900spa> to mount it on my concrete pier. The pier is 12" diameter, but reduces to 10" at the top, and the SPA attaches to 5/8" threaded steel rods embedded in that.

This link: <http://astronomy.mdodd.com/observatory.html#PierBolts> illustrates and describes what I did.

One note: The cap screws attaching the SPA to the rods are 1/4"-20. I drilled a #11 hole in one end of each rod, then tapped that for 1/4"-20. This hole should be coaxial with the rod, so a vise on a drill press is helpful. I'm fortunate to have a mini-lathe, so I chucked the rod in the lathe, and easily drilled coaxial holes.

My SPA is circa 2005, and I don't know if the current one is the same.

--- Mike
http://astronomy.mdodd.com


AP1200 rotaing pier adapter

Luke Dodd
 

Im looking at putting in a permanet pier for my AP1200. I have the rotating pier plate attached to my portable pier atm which I wish to keep on that pier. What is available to mount the AP1200 onto a permanent pier.

Thanks


Re: Slight Slop in the RA Axis of My Mach2

Roland Christen
 

Hello Dave,

Your pivot bolt might be too tight which is preventing the worm from pivoting fully into mesh. It's an easy adjustment.
Remove the outer motor box cover and set it aside with its 4 screws.
Remove the 4 screws that hold the inner cover and put those screws aside in another place, but do not mix them with the outer screws!
Now slide the inner cover back and out of the way to expose the worm assembly. You don't need to remove it entirely.

First make sure that the 3 Allen screws that hold the motor assembly to the RA axis are fully tight. If they are, then proceed with the next step:

Referring to the image below, loosen the locking screw #1 (5/64 Allen Key). Then with a 1/4" Allen key loosen the pivot bolt #2 about 1/2 turn ccw while gently pushing on the counterweight shaft in the RA direction. Gently! not with guerilla force please. It should stiffen up as the worm mates with the worm wheel teeth. Once it is in full mesh, tighten the pivot bolt a small amount and again feel the RA axis to make sure that it is meshed. You can then push down on the top back of the motor to bring the worm slightly out of mesh, then let go to allow the springs to pop the worm teeth back into mesh. The motor assembly should be able to rotate slightly in and out of mesh when you apply force to the back of the motor.

If everything feels right, re-tighten the locking screw. Then replace the inner motor cover with the shorter 4 screws (very important that you do not use the outer cover screws!!) Finish by replacing the outer cover.

Roland Christen
Astro-Physics Inc.




-----Original Message-----
From: davidcfinch9 via groups.io <DF121819@...>
To: main@ap-gto.groups.io
Sent: Fri, Sep 17, 2021 2:07 pm
Subject: [ap-gto] Slight Slop in the RA Axis of My Mach2

Hello Ray,
I have a slight "slop" (similar to backlash) in my RA axis when I apply light pressure in rocking the telescope back in forth, which I believe is due to insufficient mesh between the worm gear and worm wheel. The "slop" amounts to about 1/64" of play at the end of the counterweight shaft. All of the RA and DEC clutch knobs are fully tightened. I removed the RA gear box cover and everything appeared to be "normal." There is no such "slop" in the DEC axis.
Is there anything that I can do to tighten things up?
Regards,
David C. Finch











--
Roland Christen
Astro-Physics


Re: semi-OT: deterring critters in the obsy

Bill Long
 

Place a small planter box with some herbs in it there. They will avoid that spot after.


From: main@ap-gto.groups.io <main@ap-gto.groups.io> on behalf of Joel Short <buckeyestargazer@...>
Sent: Friday, September 17, 2021 2:41 PM
To: main@ap-gto.groups.io <main@ap-gto.groups.io>
Subject: Re: [ap-gto] semi-OT: deterring critters in the obsy
 
On Fri, Sep 17, 2021 at 04:19 PM, Bill Long wrote:
For the wasps you can use decoy nests. It does not kill them, but you can basically decide where they will go. 
I do use decoy nests.  I put two up near the OBS and I do think that it helps some. But every year I still get a nest in the same place, despite leaving their old nest up too.  
joel


Re: semi-OT: deterring critters in the obsy

Joseph Beyer
 

"For the wasps you can use decoy nests. It does not kill them, but you can basically decide where they will go. "

Agree, this is the best case 
scenario.  All serve a purpose by eliminating a lot of the nuisance bugs despite their reputation.  There are hornet and yellow jacket workers all over our garden and we all seem to coexist pretty well.  I've been stung way to many times in other situations that leads to swelling of the affected body part like week-old road kill.  When one becomes a bit too aggressive it's hard to suppress the flight instinct that only serves to give anyone within a several yard radius one hell of a great show.   


Re: semi-OT: deterring critters in the obsy

Joel Short
 

On Fri, Sep 17, 2021 at 04:19 PM, Bill Long wrote:
For the wasps you can use decoy nests. It does not kill them, but you can basically decide where they will go. 
I do use decoy nests.  I put two up near the OBS and I do think that it helps some. But every year I still get a nest in the same place, despite leaving their old nest up too.  
joel


Re: semi-OT: deterring critters in the obsy

Bill Long
 

For the wasps you can use decoy nests. It does not kill them, but you can basically decide where they will go. 


From: main@ap-gto.groups.io <main@ap-gto.groups.io> on behalf of Joel Short <buckeyestargazer@...>
Sent: Friday, September 17, 2021 1:51 PM
To: main@ap-gto.groups.io <main@ap-gto.groups.io>
Subject: Re: [ap-gto] semi-OT: deterring critters in the obsy
 
I do two things.  
1.  Twice per year (early Spring and early Fall) I spray an insecticide called Tempo SC Ultra on the outside walls and perimeter of my roll off roof obs.  This stuff works great, for other areas of the house too.
2.  I put a little bit of peppermint extract in a small spray bottle and once a month I spray the inside of the obs, especially around any cracks.

I haven't seen a spider in years in my obs; wasps are a completely different story.  Nothing deters those buggers.

joel


Re: semi-OT: deterring critters in the obsy

Woody Schlom
 

Joe,

 

Thanks for suggesting pyrethrin based products.  I hadn’t thought of that.  I’ve used them on camping gear and clothing with success against mosquitos and the like.  You spray the stuff onto fabrics (clothes, tents, etc. in my case) and when it’s dry, it lasts at least 6 months – even through several washing machine cycles.

 

According to what I’ve read, it’s poisonous to everything (including humans) while wet after application, but only harms (kills) insects when dry.  And it kills on contact somehow – even months later.

 

I’m thinking that it should indeed work in an observatory – sprayed onto covers, walls, ceiling, floor.  BUT you have to be very careful spraying the stuff – as in cover yourself in a complete disposable painter’s outfit AND wear a fancy chemical rated respirator.  I’d think one specifically designed and rated for spray painting should work well.

 

Woody

 

From: main@ap-gto.groups.io [mailto:main@ap-gto.groups.io] On Behalf Of Joseph Beyer
Sent: Friday, September 17, 2021 1:46 PM
To: main@ap-gto.groups.io
Subject: Re: [ap-gto] semi-OT: deterring critters in the obsy

 

Some of the pyrethrin-based insecticides, which tend to be less toxic to mammals have sustained activity.  In particular there are sprays or formulations that claim to give one to several months of activity.  I use an Ortho product that is called a perimeter defense that is stated to provide 6 months of activity.  After drying it is essentially odorless and from what I've observed seems to be quite effective.  I have a small weather station in my yard and the spiders find it very inviting.  Once or twice a year I'll open it up and wipe a thin coating of the perimeter defense spray inside and it helps a lot in keeping the critters out.

I think the pyrethrin-based insecticides that are used for subterranean termites are even more prolonged in activity since they're injected into the ground around structures.

Joe


Re: semi-OT: deterring critters in the obsy

ap@CaptivePhotons.com
 

Bear in mind the biggest predator of spiders is probably wasps, depending what part of the world you are in.  Be careful of getting rid of all the wasps.

 

Hobson’s choice.  😊

 

If you can figure out what the spiders are eating that may get you closer.  If it’s flying insects, check if you have any light, even infrared light, maybe even warm electronics up in those places that might attract flying insects.  If it’s crawling insects an insecticide barrier may stop their food source.

 

But I find webs even where there’s just no light and seemingly no insects. Tenacious little critters.

 

Nanobots needed (and a NINA plugin to control them).

 


Re: semi-OT: deterring critters in the obsy

Joseph Beyer
 

Right, another synthetic pyrethrin.  The most effective control for hornets/yellow jackets and wasps is to catch one to two, identify the species and hang traps that have a pheromone specific for that species.  It’s pretty easy to tell the difference between them by looking at the head and abdomen banding.  A trap made some doesn’t work on all. 

On Sep 17, 2021, at 1:51 PM, Joel Short <buckeyestargazer@...> wrote:

I do two things.  
1.  Twice per year (early Spring and early Fall) I spray an insecticide called Tempo SC Ultra on the outside walls and perimeter of my roll off roof obs.  This stuff works great, for other areas of the house too.
2.  I put a little bit of peppermint extract in a small spray bottle and once a month I spray the inside of the obs, especially around any cracks.

I haven't seen a spider in years in my obs; wasps are a completely different story.  Nothing deters those buggers.

joel


Re: semi-OT: deterring critters in the obsy

Joel Short
 

I do two things.  
1.  Twice per year (early Spring and early Fall) I spray an insecticide called Tempo SC Ultra on the outside walls and perimeter of my roll off roof obs.  This stuff works great, for other areas of the house too.
2.  I put a little bit of peppermint extract in a small spray bottle and once a month I spray the inside of the obs, especially around any cracks.

I haven't seen a spider in years in my obs; wasps are a completely different story.  Nothing deters those buggers.

joel


Re: semi-OT: deterring critters in the obsy

Joseph Beyer
 

Some of the pyrethrin-based insecticides, which tend to be less toxic to mammals have sustained activity.  In particular there are sprays or formulations that claim to give one to several months of activity.  I use an Ortho product that is called a perimeter defense that is stated to provide 6 months of activity.  After drying it is essentially odorless and from what I've observed seems to be quite effective.  I have a small weather station in my yard and the spiders find it very inviting.  Once or twice a year I'll open it up and wipe a thin coating of the perimeter defense spray inside and it helps a lot in keeping the critters out.

I think the pyrethrin-based insecticides that are used for subterranean termites are even more prolonged in activity since they're injected into the ground around structures.

Joe


Re: Mach 2 Testing

Roland Christen
 

I don't have a 175 here at this time, but I did try a customer's 180. It worked fine, but it really needs to reside on an 1100.

Roland



-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Long <bill@...>
To: AP-GTO Groups. io <ap-gto@groups.io>
Sent: Fri, Sep 17, 2021 2:35 pm
Subject: [ap-gto] Mach 2 Testing

Question for Roland. Did you try the big AP175 on the Mach 2? I am pretty sure I remember the 160 in the tests, but can't recall if the 175 was ever attempted.

Bill

--
Roland Christen
Astro-Physics


Mach 2 Testing

Bill Long
 

Question for Roland. Did you try the big AP175 on the Mach 2? I am pretty sure I remember the 160 in the tests, but can't recall if the 175 was ever attempted.

Bill


Re: Dovelm162 springs too short or assembled wrong?

M Hambrick
 

Hi Linwood

You raise a good point about your C14 not having rings. That changes things quite a bit. As to your question:

Specifically do some of you have the 16” dovetail, which when set up with knobs pointing to the sky, if you loosen the knobs the clamp’s spring stays engaged and holding it against the knob all the way until the clamp clears the saddle’s gap completely? And if you jiggle or press back, it pops back open, clearing the gap.

My clamps exhibit essentially the same behavior as you describe for yours. When I loosen the knobs, the OEM spring is completely uncompressed before the edges of clamps are completely out of the dovetail gap. This has not been a problem for me however because I am not trying to manage a heavy load at the same time I am opening the clamps. For my 180 EDT I mount my SBD16 dovetail plate with rings attached to the DOVELM162 before attaching the scope. For my Stowaway and NP101 scopes I mount the SBD12 with the rings and scope already attached to the DOVELM162. In either case, if the clamps are in the way I can just push them back with one hand while holding onto scope / rings with the other.

Per my earlier post, I tried out some longer springs and they did work as far as pushing the clamps back, but they were a little bit too long and I was worried that they would eject the clamp and knob, so put the original springs back in.

I am still wondering if you would not have an easier time installing your C14 into the dovetail plate from Park 2 instead of Park 3.

Like you, I set up and take down my setup every session. I am always on the lookout for ways to speed up the process.

Mike


semi-OT: deterring critters in the obsy

Dale Ghent
 

I've been running my club's domed observatory for a while now and one of the things I've added is a large machine/tooling dust cover to the setup while it's not in use. It's breathable (there is always air circulating in the obsy with a dehumidifier) and the intent is to keep the various bits of dust and debris that blow in under the dome ring from settling on the OTA and mount. The occasional mud dauber will also find its way in and start constructing its nest on the underside of the dome, raining dirt down on things below. All in all it has been working great for that and the OTA and mount remain quite clean.

One thing I've noticed, though, is that spiders also like the cover and I now find myself having to clear out webs and bits of spider silk more often than I've had to in the past. I like our spider friends as they keep other insects in check, but I just don't like them using a TOA-150 and 1200GTO as a frame for their constructions. I've been thinking of chemical deterrents and have thought of hanging a cotton bag with a block of camphor in it underneath the rig, but I'm not sure if that's the best maneuver or even wise given the outgassing of camphor. Mothballs are right out due to all their carcinogenic reasons. Has anyone had this problem before and have found a suitable deterrent?

/dale

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