Date   

Re: semi-OT: deterring critters in the obsy

Joseph Beyer
 

"For the wasps you can use decoy nests. It does not kill them, but you can basically decide where they will go. "

Agree, this is the best case 
scenario.  All serve a purpose by eliminating a lot of the nuisance bugs despite their reputation.  There are hornet and yellow jacket workers all over our garden and we all seem to coexist pretty well.  I've been stung way to many times in other situations that leads to swelling of the affected body part like week-old road kill.  When one becomes a bit too aggressive it's hard to suppress the flight instinct that only serves to give anyone within a several yard radius one hell of a great show.   


Re: semi-OT: deterring critters in the obsy

Joel Short
 

On Fri, Sep 17, 2021 at 04:19 PM, Bill Long wrote:
For the wasps you can use decoy nests. It does not kill them, but you can basically decide where they will go. 
I do use decoy nests.  I put two up near the OBS and I do think that it helps some. But every year I still get a nest in the same place, despite leaving their old nest up too.  
joel


Re: semi-OT: deterring critters in the obsy

Bill Long
 

For the wasps you can use decoy nests. It does not kill them, but you can basically decide where they will go. 


From: main@ap-gto.groups.io <main@ap-gto.groups.io> on behalf of Joel Short <buckeyestargazer@...>
Sent: Friday, September 17, 2021 1:51 PM
To: main@ap-gto.groups.io <main@ap-gto.groups.io>
Subject: Re: [ap-gto] semi-OT: deterring critters in the obsy
 
I do two things.  
1.  Twice per year (early Spring and early Fall) I spray an insecticide called Tempo SC Ultra on the outside walls and perimeter of my roll off roof obs.  This stuff works great, for other areas of the house too.
2.  I put a little bit of peppermint extract in a small spray bottle and once a month I spray the inside of the obs, especially around any cracks.

I haven't seen a spider in years in my obs; wasps are a completely different story.  Nothing deters those buggers.

joel


Re: semi-OT: deterring critters in the obsy

Woody Schlom
 

Joe,

 

Thanks for suggesting pyrethrin based products.  I hadn’t thought of that.  I’ve used them on camping gear and clothing with success against mosquitos and the like.  You spray the stuff onto fabrics (clothes, tents, etc. in my case) and when it’s dry, it lasts at least 6 months – even through several washing machine cycles.

 

According to what I’ve read, it’s poisonous to everything (including humans) while wet after application, but only harms (kills) insects when dry.  And it kills on contact somehow – even months later.

 

I’m thinking that it should indeed work in an observatory – sprayed onto covers, walls, ceiling, floor.  BUT you have to be very careful spraying the stuff – as in cover yourself in a complete disposable painter’s outfit AND wear a fancy chemical rated respirator.  I’d think one specifically designed and rated for spray painting should work well.

 

Woody

 

From: main@ap-gto.groups.io [mailto:main@ap-gto.groups.io] On Behalf Of Joseph Beyer
Sent: Friday, September 17, 2021 1:46 PM
To: main@ap-gto.groups.io
Subject: Re: [ap-gto] semi-OT: deterring critters in the obsy

 

Some of the pyrethrin-based insecticides, which tend to be less toxic to mammals have sustained activity.  In particular there are sprays or formulations that claim to give one to several months of activity.  I use an Ortho product that is called a perimeter defense that is stated to provide 6 months of activity.  After drying it is essentially odorless and from what I've observed seems to be quite effective.  I have a small weather station in my yard and the spiders find it very inviting.  Once or twice a year I'll open it up and wipe a thin coating of the perimeter defense spray inside and it helps a lot in keeping the critters out.

I think the pyrethrin-based insecticides that are used for subterranean termites are even more prolonged in activity since they're injected into the ground around structures.

Joe


Re: semi-OT: deterring critters in the obsy

ap@CaptivePhotons.com
 

Bear in mind the biggest predator of spiders is probably wasps, depending what part of the world you are in.  Be careful of getting rid of all the wasps.

 

Hobson’s choice.  😊

 

If you can figure out what the spiders are eating that may get you closer.  If it’s flying insects, check if you have any light, even infrared light, maybe even warm electronics up in those places that might attract flying insects.  If it’s crawling insects an insecticide barrier may stop their food source.

 

But I find webs even where there’s just no light and seemingly no insects. Tenacious little critters.

 

Nanobots needed (and a NINA plugin to control them).

 


Re: semi-OT: deterring critters in the obsy

Joseph Beyer
 

Right, another synthetic pyrethrin.  The most effective control for hornets/yellow jackets and wasps is to catch one to two, identify the species and hang traps that have a pheromone specific for that species.  It’s pretty easy to tell the difference between them by looking at the head and abdomen banding.  A trap made some doesn’t work on all. 

On Sep 17, 2021, at 1:51 PM, Joel Short <buckeyestargazer@...> wrote:

I do two things.  
1.  Twice per year (early Spring and early Fall) I spray an insecticide called Tempo SC Ultra on the outside walls and perimeter of my roll off roof obs.  This stuff works great, for other areas of the house too.
2.  I put a little bit of peppermint extract in a small spray bottle and once a month I spray the inside of the obs, especially around any cracks.

I haven't seen a spider in years in my obs; wasps are a completely different story.  Nothing deters those buggers.

joel


Re: semi-OT: deterring critters in the obsy

Joel Short
 

I do two things.  
1.  Twice per year (early Spring and early Fall) I spray an insecticide called Tempo SC Ultra on the outside walls and perimeter of my roll off roof obs.  This stuff works great, for other areas of the house too.
2.  I put a little bit of peppermint extract in a small spray bottle and once a month I spray the inside of the obs, especially around any cracks.

I haven't seen a spider in years in my obs; wasps are a completely different story.  Nothing deters those buggers.

joel


Re: semi-OT: deterring critters in the obsy

Joseph Beyer
 

Some of the pyrethrin-based insecticides, which tend to be less toxic to mammals have sustained activity.  In particular there are sprays or formulations that claim to give one to several months of activity.  I use an Ortho product that is called a perimeter defense that is stated to provide 6 months of activity.  After drying it is essentially odorless and from what I've observed seems to be quite effective.  I have a small weather station in my yard and the spiders find it very inviting.  Once or twice a year I'll open it up and wipe a thin coating of the perimeter defense spray inside and it helps a lot in keeping the critters out.

I think the pyrethrin-based insecticides that are used for subterranean termites are even more prolonged in activity since they're injected into the ground around structures.

Joe


Re: Mach 2 Testing

Roland Christen
 

I don't have a 175 here at this time, but I did try a customer's 180. It worked fine, but it really needs to reside on an 1100.

Roland



-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Long <bill@...>
To: AP-GTO Groups. io <ap-gto@groups.io>
Sent: Fri, Sep 17, 2021 2:35 pm
Subject: [ap-gto] Mach 2 Testing

Question for Roland. Did you try the big AP175 on the Mach 2? I am pretty sure I remember the 160 in the tests, but can't recall if the 175 was ever attempted.

Bill

--
Roland Christen
Astro-Physics


Mach 2 Testing

Bill Long
 

Question for Roland. Did you try the big AP175 on the Mach 2? I am pretty sure I remember the 160 in the tests, but can't recall if the 175 was ever attempted.

Bill


Re: Dovelm162 springs too short or assembled wrong?

M Hambrick
 

Hi Linwood

You raise a good point about your C14 not having rings. That changes things quite a bit. As to your question:

Specifically do some of you have the 16” dovetail, which when set up with knobs pointing to the sky, if you loosen the knobs the clamp’s spring stays engaged and holding it against the knob all the way until the clamp clears the saddle’s gap completely? And if you jiggle or press back, it pops back open, clearing the gap.

My clamps exhibit essentially the same behavior as you describe for yours. When I loosen the knobs, the OEM spring is completely uncompressed before the edges of clamps are completely out of the dovetail gap. This has not been a problem for me however because I am not trying to manage a heavy load at the same time I am opening the clamps. For my 180 EDT I mount my SBD16 dovetail plate with rings attached to the DOVELM162 before attaching the scope. For my Stowaway and NP101 scopes I mount the SBD12 with the rings and scope already attached to the DOVELM162. In either case, if the clamps are in the way I can just push them back with one hand while holding onto scope / rings with the other.

Per my earlier post, I tried out some longer springs and they did work as far as pushing the clamps back, but they were a little bit too long and I was worried that they would eject the clamp and knob, so put the original springs back in.

I am still wondering if you would not have an easier time installing your C14 into the dovetail plate from Park 2 instead of Park 3.

Like you, I set up and take down my setup every session. I am always on the lookout for ways to speed up the process.

Mike


semi-OT: deterring critters in the obsy

Dale Ghent
 

I've been running my club's domed observatory for a while now and one of the things I've added is a large machine/tooling dust cover to the setup while it's not in use. It's breathable (there is always air circulating in the obsy with a dehumidifier) and the intent is to keep the various bits of dust and debris that blow in under the dome ring from settling on the OTA and mount. The occasional mud dauber will also find its way in and start constructing its nest on the underside of the dome, raining dirt down on things below. All in all it has been working great for that and the OTA and mount remain quite clean.

One thing I've noticed, though, is that spiders also like the cover and I now find myself having to clear out webs and bits of spider silk more often than I've had to in the past. I like our spider friends as they keep other insects in check, but I just don't like them using a TOA-150 and 1200GTO as a frame for their constructions. I've been thinking of chemical deterrents and have thought of hanging a cotton bag with a block of camphor in it underneath the rig, but I'm not sure if that's the best maneuver or even wise given the outgassing of camphor. Mothballs are right out due to all their carcinogenic reasons. Has anyone had this problem before and have found a suitable deterrent?

/dale


Slight Slop in the RA Axis of My Mach2

davidcfinch9
 

Hello Ray,
I have a slight "slop" (similar to backlash) in my RA axis when I apply light pressure in rocking the telescope back in forth, which I believe is due to insufficient mesh between the worm gear and worm wheel. The "slop" amounts to about 1/64" of play at the end of the counterweight shaft. All of the RA and DEC clutch knobs are fully tightened. I removed the RA gear box cover and everything appeared to be "normal." There is no such "slop" in the DEC axis.
Is there anything that I can do to tighten things up?
Regards,
David C. Finch


Re: Dovelm162 springs too short or assembled wrong?

Woody Schlom
 

Knobs up or sideways not a problem.  All my springs and clamps still work as they always have – and should.  Well, I think so.  Haven’t used that mount in a couple of years now.

 

Woody

 

From: main@ap-gto.groups.io [mailto:main@ap-gto.groups.io] On Behalf Of ap@...
Sent: Friday, September 17, 2021 6:36 AM
To: main@ap-gto.groups.io
Subject: Re: [ap-gto] Dovelm162 springs too short or assembled wrong?

 

M Hambrick wrote:

 

Ø  Hi Linwood

I used to mount my 180 EDT scope while the mount was in Park 3 until Roland suggested that having the mount in Park 2 makes it much much easier to mount the scope. He was right. The best way to do this for heavier scopes is to leave the rings attached to the dovetail plate and clamped to the saddle with the opening in the rings facing the south side. Then you place the scope into the rings. You may need a short step stool to facilitate doing this. Once the scope is sitting in the rings it will not fall out. You can then fine tune the position before clamping the rings. I think you can also leave the OTA attached to the rings and dovetail plate as you do and it is still easier to mount in Park 2. 

 

I appreciate the approach, but my heavier OTA is a C11 (with train about 40#) and has no rings, just a dovetail screwed to the OTA side.  Changing to mounting rings and a long solid Dovetail would add probably 15 pounds to the setup (based on Bisque’s rings).  I see where it’s possible with my TV NP101is, but it would be pretty tedious compared to just sitting it into the saddle and tightening (plus the 101 is really light in comparison).

 

Because I set up and tear down every (clear) night, every little bit of time saved helps.  For that reason I also try to leave the imaging train attached when I remove the OTA, so the rotation is still set for the next night (assuming same target; manual rotation only for me).

 

---

 

So this relatively little spring issue spurred more interest than I expect and I am now curious.  It sounds like the manufacture is unchanged, but also people indicate they don’t have the issue.  Is it that the issue is moot, or it doesn’t exist?


Specifically do some of you have the 16” dovetail, which when set up with knobs pointing to the sky, if you loosen the knobs the clamp’s spring stays engaged and holding it against the knob all the way until the clamp clears the saddle’s gap completely? And if you jiggle or press back, it pops back open, clearing the gap.

 

On mine if I do that the spring stops holding it with the clamp extending into the saddle’s gap by about 1/8”, enough to keep a dovetail from dropping in.  It’s really about that close, it is not much.

 

But some of you have versions where that is not true?   Or just your use makes it moot (e.g. knobs down it would not matter)?

 

 

 

 

 


Re: Smart Meridian Flip with NINA #APCC

Dale Ghent
 

Good to hear, Joseph.

I'll make sure to update my docs to explain the configuration further.

On Sep 17, 2021, at 11:25, Joseph Beyer <jcbeyer2001@...> wrote:

Thanks for checking back. After changing my APCC parameters to match those in your video everything works fine.


Re: Smart Meridian Flip with NINA #APCC

Joseph Beyer
 

Thanks for checking back.  After changing my APCC parameters to match those in your video everything works fine. 


Re: Dovelm162 springs too short or assembled wrong?

Tom Blahovici
 

I'm the OP and this is exactly the case with mine.
Just for people reading this, if you are doing this with the clams down you will not have an issue, however you should try it with the clamps up. It is vastly easier and more secure.
I start by placing the saddle horizontal with the clamps up. You can then take the complete telescope, rings and dovetail and just position it so the lower groove engages the groove on the saddle. This is already more secure than the other way around, with the clamps down since there is no groove on that side. You can then with one hand just push on the whole scope until it contacts the saddle plate and then the other hand can just tighten the clamps.
Of course if the clamps don't open enough then they get in the way.
Tom


Re: SpaceX from Charleston, SC

Jeff B
 

pretty cool, especially its proximity to the moon.


Re: Dovelm162 springs too short or assembled wrong?

ap@CaptivePhotons.com
 

M Hambrick wrote:

 

  • Hi Linwood

    I used to mount my 180 EDT scope while the mount was in Park 3 until Roland suggested that having the mount in Park 2 makes it much much easier to mount the scope. He was right. The best way to do this for heavier scopes is to leave the rings attached to the dovetail plate and clamped to the saddle with the opening in the rings facing the south side. Then you place the scope into the rings. You may need a short step stool to facilitate doing this. Once the scope is sitting in the rings it will not fall out. You can then fine tune the position before clamping the rings. I think you can also leave the OTA attached to the rings and dovetail plate as you do and it is still easier to mount in Park 2. 

 

I appreciate the approach, but my heavier OTA is a C11 (with train about 40#) and has no rings, just a dovetail screwed to the OTA side.  Changing to mounting rings and a long solid Dovetail would add probably 15 pounds to the setup (based on Bisque’s rings).  I see where it’s possible with my TV NP101is, but it would be pretty tedious compared to just sitting it into the saddle and tightening (plus the 101 is really light in comparison).

 

Because I set up and tear down every (clear) night, every little bit of time saved helps.  For that reason I also try to leave the imaging train attached when I remove the OTA, so the rotation is still set for the next night (assuming same target; manual rotation only for me).

 

---

 

So this relatively little spring issue spurred more interest than I expect and I am now curious.  It sounds like the manufacture is unchanged, but also people indicate they don’t have the issue.  Is it that the issue is moot, or it doesn’t exist?


Specifically do some of you have the 16” dovetail, which when set up with knobs pointing to the sky, if you loosen the knobs the clamp’s spring stays engaged and holding it against the knob all the way until the clamp clears the saddle’s gap completely? And if you jiggle or press back, it pops back open, clearing the gap.

 

On mine if I do that the spring stops holding it with the clamp extending into the saddle’s gap by about 1/8”, enough to keep a dovetail from dropping in.  It’s really about that close, it is not much.

 

But some of you have versions where that is not true?   Or just your use makes it moot (e.g. knobs down it would not matter)?

 

 

 

 

 


SpaceX from Charleston, SC

thefamily90 Phillips
 

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