Date   

Imaging on grass

Tom Blahovici
 

Being in Canada, last night would have been a good night to take this literally....However...
Last night I tried out my portable "wheely bar" setup for my FSQ106 and AP600 GTO mount.  I used 1 foot by 1 foot, 2 inch thick concrete blocks under the leveling screws and did a polar alignment with the polar scope in the AP600.
My first image, 30 minutes O3 on NGC7000 was amazing.  The tracking, was 0.25" with pretty well no corrections at all. Granted the seeing was really special last night, very rare.
My imaging uses Voyager and I typically focus each 30 minutes where the scope does a goto to a nearby star in the Voyager database and then continues imaging.
After the first image I started to get large gradual swings in the dec and RA, up to 4" of arc errors after which Voyager would abort and start over. After two or so tries I then managed to get another nice sub.  Likewise for the third sub.  After this, I was no longer really successful.
So I took a look at the polar alignment through the polar scope and polaris had moved quite a lot. Probably a good 1/8 to 1/4 of the field of view.
So my thinking is that as the night progressed, and the scope changed position, the blocks started to shift.  This happened during the exposures.
So, how do you image on grass?  Is 30 minute subs out of the question?  Do you polar align frequently?
Thanks for any insight.
Tom


Re: APCC Pro appears to have crashed and all settings reverted back to factory settings #APCC

Eric Claeys
 

Out of memory errors don't necessarily mean the PC is out of memory since it will use swap when the total memory in use is more than the physical memory in the PC.

Often that error means the application has run out of memory space.  A 32-bit application like APCC can use up to 4 GB, but IIRC only gets 3 GB by default.  If APCC has a major memory leak issue, it could run out of memory and give that error.


Re: Computer max ambient temperature

ap@CaptivePhotons.com
 

Ambient temperature is relevant but ambient tolerance will vary widely depending on the computer design and airflow over it.  The better measure is to find out how to read its internal temperatures (it may have many), find out their design limits, subtract 10C or so, and then watch at what ambient you get there as ambient rises.  That will give you a much better feel for ambient limits.

 

A well designed computer with good cooling could easily tolerate 20-30C higher ambient than a mediocre design with lots of dust inside and poor airflow in general.

 

Lots of programs (example HWINFO64 on windows) will search out and report sensors inside the computer.  Google the particular chip and motherboard to find reasonable limits.  And it’s often not the CPU that is the critical factor, since those often slow down if they over heat, it’s sometimes I/O or memory related sensors, or (unlikely in Astro but) also GPU.

 

Laptops are often the worst performers, as they are designed to be razor thin and have lousy airflow.  Fanless units are nice and quiet but obviously not as resilient as ambient rises.


Re: APCC Pro appears to have crashed and all settings reverted back to factory settings #APCC

Chris White
 

On Sun, Jul 11, 2021 at 09:56 AM, Ray Gralak wrote:
Hi Chris,

It looks like you deleted your log file, so a couple of questions:

* Do you recall which APCC windows you had open?
* How long had APCC been running?

-Ray
Good morning Ray.  Here is the correct link:  https://www.dropbox.com/sh/jjauxufz4jri67c/AABdWOoYux0muL49Q01GCcava?dl=0


Re: Computer max ambient temperature

Peter Bresler
 

I just lost Kingdel computer which was sitting out in 95 degree sun for a while....not sure if that is what caused it though. Its on the way to China.


Re: APCC Pro appears to have crashed and all settings reverted back to factory settings #APCC

Ray Gralak
 

Hi Chris,

It looks like you deleted your log file, so a couple of questions:

* Do you recall which APCC windows you had open?
* How long had APCC been running?

-Ray

-----Original Message-----
From: main@ap-gto.groups.io [mailto:main@ap-gto.groups.io] On Behalf Of Chris White
Sent: Sunday, July 11, 2021 4:44 AM
To: main@ap-gto.groups.io
Subject: [ap-gto] APCC Pro appears to have crashed and all settings reverted back to factory settings #APCC

I awoke this morning to find my capture software and APCC Pro had closed. Neither was frozen or anything, just
the apps were not active. PHD2, Pegasus Power Box, Planetary, etc... were all open, so the computer didnt do an
update or anything.

When I opened APCC Pro this morning all settings had reverted back to the factory settings. All of my mount info,
horizon info, modeling etc is gone. I know some of this is recoverable as the profiles for horzon/model are saved.

I have no idea what went wrong. I've attached the log so maybe someone can help me out, or Ray can take a look.
I'm hoping there is a way to reload all of my APCC Pro settings as I dont want to have to go through all that setup
again. Also, hoping to understand what went wrong and why the program crashed in the first place.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/q801oczubf90h3t/APCC-2021-05-10-183306.txt?dl=0

Thank you,


Re: APCC Pro appears to have crashed and all settings reverted back to factory settings #APCC

Joe Zeglinski
 

Hi Chris,
 
    You should at least run Win-10-> Admin Tools-> Windows Memory Diagnostic, and not just the default quick 2 minute one, but specify several more passes, run all day if necessary, according to your time or preference. In an 8-GB system,  just takes one of the two memory modules to suddenly become inaccessible.
 
    I’m not an an expert, but experienced some very difficult issues recently, with my M2 slot type,  SSD.
    That other culprit is any M2-interfaced  SSD drive’s operating temperature. They run much hotter, especially SAMSUNG’s,  than the average standard SATA interfaced hard drive  bay replacement SSD, and their temperatures can quickly & easily hit 65 C or more.
 
    I think 75C is their DRAM’s,  NAND gates protective shutdown, for any M2 type, so maybe its final stage protection is to shut down the PC rather than just the M2-SSD. They normally “throttle” their own drive access speed, gradually,  as their temperature rises. Maybe the final critical temps cause a full “system protective” shutdown. If that happened and it was the main storage C-Drive, then there would be a shutdown as the final throttle stage. However, since your “dedicated imaging drive”,  is a secondary storage M2, a total system crash “may not” happen.
 
   I had that problem this past January, on my ASUS motherboard’s M2 slot,  when I attached a new  2-TB, “SAMSUNG 970 EVO PLUS (M2) SSD” main drive (with its passive heat sink), until I placed a dedicated 4” fan, blowing directly on it, inside my desktop case. Even a Gaming type laptop, with some cooler running  M2-SSD’s,  would crash quicker, due to  small fan(s) in a confined space.  However, less powerful one’s like WD versions, run somewhat cooler, even in a laptop.
 
    Just speculating.
Joe Z.


Re: APCC Pro appears to have crashed and all settings reverted back to factory settings #APCC

Chris White
 

On Sun, Jul 11, 2021 at 08:09 AM, Dale Ghent wrote:
The answer to what happened is at the bottom of your 2nd log file:
Thank you Dale.  Appreciate the quick help.

As to why I ran out of memory... thats a good question.  I have 8GB on this PC which should be more than enough.  Never had this problem before.  I've also still got several GB free of hard drive space, and all captures are sent to a secondary M2 drive. 

As to your suggestion about looking into Windows Event Logs.... I'm not really sure where to start. 

As to my question about being able to recover my old settings, I was able to do that with an auto backup that APCC made sometime yesterday evening.  This part is a HUGE relief.  Whew.


Re: APCC Pro appears to have crashed and all settings reverted back to factory settings #APCC

Dale Ghent
 

The answer to what happened is at the bottom of your 2nd log file:

0805685 2021-07-110849564 2021-07-11 06:34:13.743:     Severe,  Command Thread, FindFreeQacIndex: no free entries!
0849565 2021-07-11 06:34:14.090:      Debug,  Command Thread, TX = '#:GP#'
0849566 2021-07-11 06:34:25.933:  Exception,                , Exception of type 'System.OutOfMemoryException' was thrown.
0849567 2021-07-11 06:34:25.933:     Severe,  Command Thread, FindFreeQacIndex: no free entries!
0849568 2021-07-11 06:34:27.138:  Exception,  Command Thread, Exception of type 'System.OutOfMemoryException' was thrown.

APCC Pro was unable to allocate memory so it did the normal thing for an app in such a situation and crashed/quit. I reckon that the same thing happened with your capture app.

The question that remains is why your system had so much memory pressure that an app could not allocate more. Unless you have something that actively monitors and records memory usage then this will likely remain a mystery. You might get lucky and find hints in the Windows events log, though. 


On Jul 11, 2021, at 07:44, Chris White <chris.white@...> wrote:

I awoke this morning to find my capture software and APCC Pro had closed.  Neither was frozen or anything, just the apps were not active.  PHD2, Pegasus Power Box, Planetary, etc... were all open, so the computer didnt do an update or anything.

When I opened APCC Pro this morning all settings had reverted back to the factory settings.  All of my mount info, horizon info, modeling etc is gone.  I know some of this is recoverable as the profiles for horzon/model are saved. 

I have no idea what went wrong.  I've attached the log so maybe someone can help me out, or Ray can take a look.  I'm hoping there is a way to reload all of my APCC Pro settings as I dont want to have to go through all that setup again.  Also, hoping to understand what went wrong and why the program crashed in the first place. 

https://www.dropbox.com/s/q801oczubf90h3t/APCC-2021-05-10-183306.txt?dl=0

Thank you,


APCC Pro appears to have crashed and all settings reverted back to factory settings #APCC

Chris White
 
Edited

I awoke this morning to find my capture software and APCC Pro had closed.  Neither was frozen or anything, just the apps were not active.  PHD2, Pegasus Power Box, Planetary, etc... were all open, so the computer didnt do an update or anything.

When I opened APCC Pro this morning all settings had reverted back to the factory settings.  All of my mount info, horizon info, modeling etc is gone.  I know some of this is recoverable as the profiles for horzon/model are saved. 

I have no idea what went wrong.  I've attached the log so maybe someone can help me out, or Ray can take a look.  I'm hoping there is a way to reload all of my APCC Pro settings as I dont want to have to go through all that setup again.  Also, hoping to understand what went wrong and why the program crashed in the first place. 

For some reason there are two logs from last night. 

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/jjauxufz4jri67c/AABdWOoYux0muL49Q01GCcava?dl=0

Thank you,


Re: Software Update to V5.XXX for Existing Keypads

Christopher Erickson
 

In my experience, even with a hood, the display brightness on the AP hand controller is so low that non-dark-adapted eyes still can't see it easily during the day. Removing the red lens is the best way to see the hand controller during the day.

Another alternative is using Sky Safari Plus/Pro (or a PC) to control the mount during the day.

The AP display module is a vacuum fluorescent display with a bluish emission. It is a beautiful, expensive display module that I suspect that AP chose over a common, cheap LCD because it is usable to about -40F/C and is amazingly tough. It is an industrial component. Vacuum fluorescent display modules can be had with the HD44780 interface and be swapped into many electronic devices originally designed for cheap LCD displays.


The Hitachi HD44780 interface is a defacto standard electrical interface to LCD (and other) display modules and is used by many manufacturers for many display types and configurations. As an electrical specification and not a mechanical one, the connector used is not standardized and neither is the total number of pins/conductors used. Hence swapping out displays isn't always a drop-in situation. There are pin headers and ribbon headers and a lot of variations of each. Often times a bit of soldering is required to swap out various displays.


OLED modules have the advantage over LCD's and VFD's when it comes to being viewed in direct sunlight. They effectively become more reflective than emissive and are still readable.

It is possible to swap out the AP vacuum fluorescent display module with an OLED module with an HD44780 interface. The only real challenge will be fiddling with the connection of the module to the hand controller. Some soldering will probably be required. The pin spacing of the connector plug used in the hand controller is less common than most connector choices currently available. 

I have provided sufficient information for anyone who wishes to experiment with OLED displays and their AP hand controller and has the minimal required electronic skills to make it happen.

Have fun!

-Christopher Erickson


On Fri, Jul 9, 2021, 1:36 PM Don Anderson via groups.io <jockey_ca=yahoo.ca@groups.io> wrote:
Hi Joe
Hopefully all keypad versions should have the same internals display wise. You go ahead and be the ginny pig for the rest of us😗. If it works then I would consider it too. The new solar cycle is getting kicked off and I would like to get back into solar Astro photography.
Don



Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPad

On Friday, July 9, 2021, 10:47 AM, Joe Zeglinski <J.Zeglinski@...> wrote:

Thanks Greg,
 
    That second link for the HOODMAN Loupe is what I had been considering for some years. However, reaching for any Keypad button, while being that close with the eyes locked onto the hooded screen, might end up with serious “nasal interference”  ;-)
 
    Also, at $90 for the Loupe, the price of (something like)  a $40 OLED replacement module for the present Keypad’s VFU,  looks good.
 
Something like:
 
    Back on the thread  (14/01/2017), Chris provided a link for the original VFU.
 
 
    But I can’t find the link for the actual OLED he successfully replaced,  in three of his Keypads.
Great description, however,  back then.
 
    Hopefully those OLED modules were “Pin & Plug Compatible”, not requiring any soldered mods to the Keypad  itself (unfortunately, Keypad model numbers were unspecified – but maybe they would all be fine).
 
    It may even be that the OLED isn’t as easily visible in daylight,  as the existing VFU module’s display, but with its red filter removed.
 
    I was thinking that since I have to take the Keypad apart anyway, to get at removing the filter, then that OLED modules lower cost, it might be worth plugging one in, just on speculation as a comparison, and choose between either of Chris two suggested methods. Probably a good time to change the Keypad Battery anyway, while I am in the rat’s nest of delicate plastic optic-fibres.
 
    Another COVID idle-item home project ?
Joe Z.
 
 
From: Greg Vaughn
Sent: Thursday, July 8, 2021 11:22 PM
To: main@ap-gto.groups.io
Subject: Re: [ap-gto] Software Update to V5.XXX for Existing Keypads
 

Hi Joe,

 

I generally use my AP mounts without computer and only with the keypad when I do solar imaging.    I can do that because I use a DSLR to take photos – generally with either an external or built in interval timer (depending on the camera).

 

What I find works well for both examination of, and focusing with, the magnified Live View image on the camera LCD AND viewing the menus/text on the keypad is a magnified HOODMAN HoodLoupe that I purchased for the 2017 Great American Eclipse.   George had suggested putting a towel over my head to read the keypad, but I found this pretty cumbersome and never got proficient at it.

 

On Amazon, a quick Google search turned up the following: https://www.amazon.com/Hoodman-H32MB-HoodLoupe-Outdoor-Screens/dp/B074N4Z4J1/ref=asc_df_B074N4Z4J1/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309770125437&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6255938973769466240&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9008185&hvtargid=pla-568855316281&th=1

 

The above link is for a 3.2 in LCD screen.

 

There are also a number of accessories that you can purchase, some bundled in kits, that I found at B&H: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/search?Ntt=Hoodman%20Hoodloupe&N=0&InitialSearch=yes&ap=Y&gclid=Cj0KCQjwxJqHBhC4ARIsAChq4atcuubNgdkbWYsQKnciWSrS2EACTVP7E5gay8qc3Xg7Pty94ATbLwkaApxKEALw_wcB

 

Some accessories allow you to leave the loupe on the back of a DSLR, but that doesn’t give me the freedom I desire.   If you use an articulated screen (very common now), like on the Canon Ra (so you’re not on your hands and knees to look out the scope), you have to use two hands to view with the loupe, just as you would need to do with the keypad if you are holding it.   (One hand holds the articulating screen still and the other holds the loupe over it.  Once settled and the loupe focused, I can hold the loupe still on the LCD screen with pressure from my face and eye socket while I manually focus the scope.)

 

When I’m solar observing, I have the loupe lanyard (comes with it) around my neck and it allows ready access to the loupe so I can use it for either the camera/focusing or the keypad.    The loupe is also useful before dark as well on the keypad - when checking altitude adjustment from Park 5 for example – although I have the necessary keystrokes memorized at this point.

 

Hope this helps.

 

Cheers,

Greg

 

p.s.  It’s important to first focus the loupe itself with the its own diopter adjustment.   I focus on the lettering projected on the screen and I found it quite easy and quite quick to get the loupe in good focus.  That focus generally holds for then moving it to the keypad.

 

Greg Vaughn

Alexandria, VA

 

 


Virus-free. www.avast.com
   


Re: PEMPro v.3.0031

Ray Gralak
 

What you described doesn't make sense to me. Why would a Software Bisque application (SkyX) try to install software from another vendor? (MaxPoint is made by Diffraction Limited).

If you need PEMPro support, please post the full details of your setup (mount, camera, software versions, etc.) and PEMPro logs on the CCDWare PEMPro forum. Here's the link:

https://ccdware.infopop.cc/forum/pempro

Thanks!!

-Ray

-----Original Message-----
From: main@ap-gto.groups.io [mailto:main@ap-gto.groups.io] On Behalf Of CurtisC via groups.io
Sent: Saturday, July 10, 2021 8:35 PM
To: main@ap-gto.groups.io
Subject: Re: [ap-gto] PEMPro v.3.0031

I should add that my other software is working fine. I imaged last night, it's set up for tonight. There's an oddity that
TSX has suddenly decided that it wants to install MaxPoint. But I can kill that and proceed.


Re: PEMPro v.3.0031

CurtisC
 

I should add that my other software is working fine.  I imaged last night, it's set up for tonight.  There's an oddity that TSX has suddenly decided that it wants to install MaxPoint.  But I can kill that and proceed.


Re: PEMPro v.3.0031

CurtisC
 

I guess something got lost in the messaging.  I'm looking for the log.  Where should I expect to find it?

In the meantime, of course the camera's not connecting.  Neither is the mount.  I can't get to the point where PEMPro lets me connect them.  I get a spinning-wheel-of-death, and it won't let me proceed.  The version I'm using is whatever was available on the PEMPro website late last summer.  If it was a beta version, then I was unaware of that.


Re: Computer max ambient temperature

Mike Dodd
 

On 7/10/2021 1:50 PM, Larry Owings wrote:
Off topic I know, but what is the maximum ambient temperature you allow
your computer to run at?
95F in the observatory, but not longer than 15-20 minutes. I.e., I don't hesitate to run it when I need to.

--- mike


Computer max ambient temperature

Larry Owings
 

Off topic I know, but what is the maximum ambient temperature you allow your computer to run at?


Re: PEMPro v.3.0031

Ray Gralak
 

Hi Curtis,

It's hard to say given you don't say exactly what happened just before the issue started, but it sounds like a USB issue of some sort (e.g. camera not responding). You might want to try checking the connection to the camera as well as rebooting your computer. Also, make sure only one application is tcommunicating with the camera (PEMPro or the camera control program PEMPro is connected to).

Also, you should update PEMPro, as that s not the latest public version.

-Ray

-----Original Message-----
From: main@ap-gto.groups.io [mailto:main@ap-gto.groups.io] On Behalf Of CurtisC via groups.io
Sent: Friday, July 9, 2021 9:53 PM
To: main@ap-gto.groups.io
Subject: [ap-gto] PEMPro v.3.0031

I'm trying to use PEMPro's PEC function for the first time since Sep 2020. At that time, I used it successfully
numerous times. A few nights ago I successfully used the polar-alignment function. But on the PEC screen I get a
continuous spinning-wheel-of-death. This is Windows 10. If I try to do anything useful, I get a "not responding."

Where should I look for the log?


PEMPro v.3.0031

CurtisC
 

I'm trying to use PEMPro's PEC function for the first time since Sep 2020.  At that time, I used it successfully numerous times.  A few nights ago I successfully used the polar-alignment function.  But on the PEC screen I get a continuous spinning-wheel-of-death.  This is Windows 10.  If I try to do anything useful, I get a "not responding."

Where should I look for the log?


Re: Software Update to V5.XXX for Existing Keypads

Don Anderson
 

Hi Joe
Hopefully all keypad versions should have the same internals display wise. You go ahead and be the ginny pig for the rest of us😗. If it works then I would consider it too. The new solar cycle is getting kicked off and I would like to get back into solar Astro photography.
Don

On Friday, July 9, 2021, 10:47 AM, Joe Zeglinski <J.Zeglinski@...> wrote:

Thanks Greg,
 
    That second link for the HOODMAN Loupe is what I had been considering for some years. However, reaching for any Keypad button, while being that close with the eyes locked onto the hooded screen, might end up with serious “nasal interference”  ;-)
 
    Also, at $90 for the Loupe, the price of (something like)  a $40 OLED replacement module for the present Keypad’s VFU,  looks good.
 
Something like:
 
    Back on the thread  (14/01/2017), Chris provided a link for the original VFU.
 
 
    But I can’t find the link for the actual OLED he successfully replaced,  in three of his Keypads.
Great description, however,  back then.
 
    Hopefully those OLED modules were “Pin & Plug Compatible”, not requiring any soldered mods to the Keypad  itself (unfortunately, Keypad model numbers were unspecified – but maybe they would all be fine).
 
    It may even be that the OLED isn’t as easily visible in daylight,  as the existing VFU module’s display, but with its red filter removed.
 
    I was thinking that since I have to take the Keypad apart anyway, to get at removing the filter, then that OLED modules lower cost, it might be worth plugging one in, just on speculation as a comparison, and choose between either of Chris two suggested methods. Probably a good time to change the Keypad Battery anyway, while I am in the rat’s nest of delicate plastic optic-fibres.
 
    Another COVID idle-item home project ?
Joe Z.
 
 
Sent: Thursday, July 8, 2021 11:22 PM
Subject: Re: [ap-gto] Software Update to V5.XXX for Existing Keypads
 

Hi Joe,

 

I generally use my AP mounts without computer and only with the keypad when I do solar imaging.    I can do that because I use a DSLR to take photos – generally with either an external or built in interval timer (depending on the camera).

 

What I find works well for both examination of, and focusing with, the magnified Live View image on the camera LCD AND viewing the menus/text on the keypad is a magnified HOODMAN HoodLoupe that I purchased for the 2017 Great American Eclipse.   George had suggested putting a towel over my head to read the keypad, but I found this pretty cumbersome and never got proficient at it.

 

On Amazon, a quick Google search turned up the following: https://www.amazon.com/Hoodman-H32MB-HoodLoupe-Outdoor-Screens/dp/B074N4Z4J1/ref=asc_df_B074N4Z4J1/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309770125437&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6255938973769466240&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9008185&hvtargid=pla-568855316281&th=1

 

The above link is for a 3.2 in LCD screen.

 

There are also a number of accessories that you can purchase, some bundled in kits, that I found at B&H: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/search?Ntt=Hoodman%20Hoodloupe&N=0&InitialSearch=yes&ap=Y&gclid=Cj0KCQjwxJqHBhC4ARIsAChq4atcuubNgdkbWYsQKnciWSrS2EACTVP7E5gay8qc3Xg7Pty94ATbLwkaApxKEALw_wcB

 

Some accessories allow you to leave the loupe on the back of a DSLR, but that doesn’t give me the freedom I desire.   If you use an articulated screen (very common now), like on the Canon Ra (so you’re not on your hands and knees to look out the scope), you have to use two hands to view with the loupe, just as you would need to do with the keypad if you are holding it.   (One hand holds the articulating screen still and the other holds the loupe over it.  Once settled and the loupe focused, I can hold the loupe still on the LCD screen with pressure from my face and eye socket while I manually focus the scope.)

 

When I’m solar observing, I have the loupe lanyard (comes with it) around my neck and it allows ready access to the loupe so I can use it for either the camera/focusing or the keypad.    The loupe is also useful before dark as well on the keypad - when checking altitude adjustment from Park 5 for example – although I have the necessary keystrokes memorized at this point.

 

Hope this helps.

 

Cheers,

Greg

 

p.s.  It’s important to first focus the loupe itself with the its own diopter adjustment.   I focus on the lettering projected on the screen and I found it quite easy and quite quick to get the loupe in good focus.  That focus generally holds for then moving it to the keypad.

 

Greg Vaughn

Alexandria, VA

 

 


Virus-free. www.avast.com


Re: Mach1GTO having significant play in RA and DEC axis even with RA/DEC clutch knobs fully tight

George
 

Shitij,

 

If you still have issues after gear meshing, contact me directly and I can walk you through the procedure.   See the gear meshing link for you specific Mach1 on the Tech page for legacy products:

https://astro-physics.info/tech_support/tech_support_legacy.htm

 

Regards,

 

George

 

George Whitney

Astro-Physics, Inc.

Phone:  815-222-6538 (direct line)

Phone:  815-282-1513 (office)

Email:  george@...

 

From: main@ap-gto.groups.io <main@ap-gto.groups.io> On Behalf Of shitij.cse@...
Sent: Thursday, July 8, 2021 5:57 PM
To: main@ap-gto.groups.io
Subject: [ap-gto] Mach1GTO having significant play in RA and DEC axis even with RA/DEC clutch knobs fully tight

 

I just got a used Mach1GTO and am seeing significant play in both RA and DEC axis, is this normal? (please see this video: https://photos.app.goo.gl/8Uc2nCfHHfjcVX3x7)

I read through this post: https://ap-gto.groups.io/g/main/topic/mach1_play_in_ra_axis_did/77208585?p= but my Mach1 is the older version (S/N M10366) and does not have a lever on the side of the gearbox so any instructions for the older mach1 for this similar issue would be great!

Thanks in advance,
Shitij

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