Great, thanks Stacey.  Serial to serial is what I have, I’ll do the upgrade later this week then.

Geert

I used straight serial to serial, not the USB->Serial converter.

Thank you George.

This is a roll-away shed and it has been designed such that we must use Park 5. Coming from another mount not having the issue, we were not aware of this problem. We will have to take care of it in the automation software. Will see …

Regards,

Horia

Horia,

To avoid the downward dip, it is also possible to use Park 4.    I assume that your facility will allow it.

Hello Pam,

Here is some information that pertains to upgrading older keypads to the new version 5 software:

https://www.astro-physics.info/tech_support/mounts/keypad_update/419/upgrading-older-keypads-1119.pdf

I hope that it is helpful.

Clear Skies,

Marj Christen

Astro-Physics, Inc

11250 Forest Hills Rd

Machesney Park, IL 61115

Phone: 815-282-1513

Fax: 815-282-9847

www.astro-physics.com

Larry,

I’m glad it worked out well for you. I know what you mean. I really like it also.

Clear Skies,

Marj Christen

Astro-Physics, Inc

11250 Forest Hills Rd

Machesney Park, IL 61115

Phone: 815-282-1513

Fax: 815-282-9847

www.astro-physics.com

Ah, thanks Roland.  I didn’t realize that the “old” amp draw method only works with the original Mach1 – which I have.  Interesting.

Woody

Micheal,

First off I have a Mach1, not the new Mach2.  But all my comments should apply to the Mach2 also.

1. Balance technique #1.  Balancing the DEC access of the original Mach1 is a bit tricky as it has no gear/friction release for balancing.  So there was quite a bit of friction even with the clutch released.  But Roland suggested how he did it – using a low-tech fish scale.  And by golly, it works.  I have a new-fangled digital fish scale which works even better.  Basically you release the DEC clutch fully, lay out the CW shaft horizontal, and then attach the hook of the fish scale to the end of the CW shaft and gently tug straight up and read the weight on the scale.  Then reverse direction and gently tug the end of the CW shaft down and note the weight on the scale.  The goal is to get both readings to be the same.  So adjust the weights accordingly.
2. Balance technique #2.  This uses the electronic technique you described – compare the amp draw in both directions, and adjust the CW until amp draw is the same in both directions.  And for this the handiest solution is to buy one of Powerwerk’s inline volt/amp meters.  It comes with PP connectors on both ends.  So you just plug it in between the mount’s power supply and mount – and with the CQ shaft horizontal, do the same as with the fish scale – except using the mount move controls to move the mount – and adjust the CW until the amp draw is the same in both directions.
3. I use two methods for PA.  #1  The fast method (which I use 99% of the time) is using the RAPAS and a Polar Alignment APP on my Android phone.  The APP takes the phone’s current time, date, and location and displays an identical RAPAS reticle image on the phone – with a white dot where you’re supposed to put Polaris.  And then you just adjust the Az and DEC mount adjustments until the real Polaris in the RAPAS is in exactly the same place where it is on the phone’s APP.  Done.  With just a little practice you can do it in about a minute.  And it’s plenty accurate enough.
4. #2 PA method I use.  PemPRO.  This basically is a camera assisted speeded up drift alignment.  It works well, but takes me a whole lot longer than the RAPAS method.  And to be honest, about the only time I use PemPRO for PA is to calibrate and align my RAPAS.

Woody