Date   

Re: At-GTO Group can't shrink APV2 window after expamd in Maxim DL

Mike Dodd
 

Do you see a <<<<< button in the main window after the >>>>> button expands? I see this, and that's the way to close the expanded window and return to the normal window.

What do you see?

--- Mike


Re: At-GTO Group can't shrink APV2 window after expamd in Maxim DL

CurtisC
 

I don't have a solution for your problem -- sorry -- but something I've never figured out is where the V2 window goes when I minimize it.  It vanishes.  If I've minimized it and then I click on the ASCOM symbol, I get something that shows the current mount position etc., but it's not the V2 window.  


Re: Hand controller cables are cracking open #Keypad

Roland Christen
 

We don't buy the cable, it comes with the keypad which we buy from our US manufacturer. We don't know or have control of where they purchase the individual parts. However, i do believe that the new cables are more robust than those of 20 years ago.

Rolando



-----Original Message-----
From: Peter Bresler via groups.io <PABresler@...>
To: main@ap-gto.groups.io
Sent: Tue, Sep 1, 2020 10:03 am
Subject: Re: [ap-gto] Hand controller cables are cracking open #Keypad

Same thing happened to mine. They really need to get a better supplier of that cable. Actually first I stripped off all the old covering and re-wrapped it with electrical tape, saved up, and spent the $80.00 for a new cable.


Re: Hand controller cables are cracking open #Keypad

Michael Hambrick <mike.hambrick@...>
 

I wonder if maybe they have already switched to a different supplier. The cable on my keypad (purchased in 2017) has a matte finish and is very flexible. When did you buy your controller ?

Unfortunately, most electronic components today are manufactured in China, and in my experience their quality is very inconsistent. You will generally get more consistent quality for components coming from Korea, Japan, and sometimes Tiawan, but in many cases the only option is China.


Best Regards

Michael Hambrick
ARLANXEO
TSR Global Manufacturing Support
PO Box 2000
Orange, TX 77631-2000
Phone: +1 (409) 882-2799
email: mike.hambrick@...


Re: Upgrading CP4 Firmware Question re "full initialization"

Roland Christen
 


What is meant by a "full initialization"? I turned APCC back on and connected the mount
What you did is a full initialization.

Rolando


-----Original Message-----
From: Tony Benjamin <tonybenjamin@...>
To: main@ap-gto.groups.io
Sent: Mon, Aug 31, 2020 10:10 pm
Subject: [ap-gto] Upgrading CP4 Firmware Question re "full initialization"

I needed to upgrade the CP4 software to the latest ver 14 (I was on 11) Went through the procedure listed in the .pdf of the software download and am wondering about the last item in the .pdf which says:



What is meant by a "full initialization"? I turned APCC back on and connected the mount and all looked normal with the Firmware showing the new ver 14. So, is this just old documentation or do I need to do something further?


Re: Hand controller cables are cracking open #Keypad

Peter Bresler
 

Same thing happened to mine. They really need to get a better supplier of that cable. Actually first I stripped off all the old covering and re-wrapped it with electrical tape, saved up, and spent the $80.00 for a new cable.


Re: Upgrading CP4 Firmware Question re "full initialization"

Tony Benjamin <tonybenjamin@...>
 

I never powered down, just opened APCC after the upload and all looked well. Always glad when there is no hitches J.

 

From: main@ap-gto.groups.io [mailto:main@ap-gto.groups.io] On Behalf Of Bill Long
Sent: August 31, 2020 8:56 PM
To: main@ap-gto.groups.io
Subject: Re: [ap-gto] Upgrading CP4 Firmware Question re "full initialization"

 

I just upgraded mine as well, and I just rebooted the CP4 and APCC prompted me to initialize from last parked. 

 


From: main@ap-gto.groups.io <main@ap-gto.groups.io> on behalf of Tony Benjamin <tonybenjamin@...>
Sent: Monday, August 31, 2020 8:10 PM
To: main@ap-gto.groups.io <main@ap-gto.groups.io>
Subject: [ap-gto] Upgrading CP4 Firmware Question re "full initialization"

 

I needed to upgrade the CP4 software to the latest ver 14 (I was on 11) Went through the procedure listed in the .pdf of the software download and am wondering about the last item in the .pdf which says:



What is meant by a "full initialization"? I turned APCC back on and connected the mount and all looked normal with the Firmware showing the new ver 14. So, is this just old documentation or do I need to do something further?


Re: Upgrading CP4 Firmware Question re "full initialization"

Tony Benjamin <tonybenjamin@...>
 

Thanks....I like simplicity :)

-----Original Message-----
From: main@ap-gto.groups.io [mailto:main@ap-gto.groups.io] On Behalf Of Ray Gralak
Sent: August 31, 2020 8:24 PM
To: main@ap-gto.groups.io
Subject: Re: [ap-gto] Upgrading CP4 Firmware Question re "full initialization"

Hi Tony,

Just power cycling the CP4 is good enough.

-Ray Gralak
Author of APCC (Astro-Physics Command Center): https://www.astro-physics.com/apcc-pro
Author of PEMPro V3: https://www.ccdware.com Author of Astro-Physics V2 ASCOM Driver: https://www.siriusimaging.com/apdriver


-----Original Message-----
From: main@ap-gto.groups.io [mailto:main@ap-gto.groups.io] On Behalf
Of Tony Benjamin
Sent: Monday, August 31, 2020 8:11 PM
To: main@ap-gto.groups.io
Subject: [ap-gto] Upgrading CP4 Firmware Question re "full initialization"

I needed to upgrade the CP4 software to the latest ver 14 (I was on
11) Went through the procedure listed in the .pdf of the software download and am wondering about the last item in the .pdf which says:



What is meant by a "full initialization"? I turned APCC back on and
connected the mount and all looked normal with the Firmware showing
the new ver 14. So, is this just old documentation or do I need to do something further?


Re: Upgrading CP4 Firmware Question re "full initialization"

Bill Long
 

I just upgraded mine as well, and I just rebooted the CP4 and APCC prompted me to initialize from last parked. 


From: main@ap-gto.groups.io <main@ap-gto.groups.io> on behalf of Tony Benjamin <tonybenjamin@...>
Sent: Monday, August 31, 2020 8:10 PM
To: main@ap-gto.groups.io <main@ap-gto.groups.io>
Subject: [ap-gto] Upgrading CP4 Firmware Question re "full initialization"
 
I needed to upgrade the CP4 software to the latest ver 14 (I was on 11) Went through the procedure listed in the .pdf of the software download and am wondering about the last item in the .pdf which says:



What is meant by a "full initialization"? I turned APCC back on and connected the mount and all looked normal with the Firmware showing the new ver 14. So, is this just old documentation or do I need to do something further?


Re: Upgrading CP4 Firmware Question re "full initialization"

Ray Gralak
 

Hi Tony,

Just power cycling the CP4 is good enough.

-Ray Gralak
Author of APCC (Astro-Physics Command Center): https://www.astro-physics.com/apcc-pro
Author of PEMPro V3: https://www.ccdware.com
Author of Astro-Physics V2 ASCOM Driver: https://www.siriusimaging.com/apdriver

-----Original Message-----
From: main@ap-gto.groups.io [mailto:main@ap-gto.groups.io] On Behalf Of Tony Benjamin
Sent: Monday, August 31, 2020 8:11 PM
To: main@ap-gto.groups.io
Subject: [ap-gto] Upgrading CP4 Firmware Question re "full initialization"

I needed to upgrade the CP4 software to the latest ver 14 (I was on 11) Went through the procedure listed in the
.pdf of the software download and am wondering about the last item in the .pdf which says:



What is meant by a "full initialization"? I turned APCC back on and connected the mount and all looked normal
with the Firmware showing the new ver 14. So, is this just old documentation or do I need to do something
further?


Upgrading CP4 Firmware Question re "full initialization"

Tony Benjamin <tonybenjamin@...>
 

I needed to upgrade the CP4 software to the latest ver 14 (I was on 11) Went through the procedure listed in the .pdf of the software download and am wondering about the last item in the .pdf which says:



What is meant by a "full initialization"? I turned APCC back on and connected the mount and all looked normal with the Firmware showing the new ver 14. So, is this just old documentation or do I need to do something further?


Re: Hand controller cables are cracking open #Keypad

Michael Hambrick <mike.hambrick@...>
 

Does the cable cover feel brittle. The shiny appearance of the cable suggests to me that the cover material may have degraded. This can occur due to excessive heat or cold, or exposure to some chemicals. Any kind of oxidizing agents, or silicone based oils can be especially bad. It is also possible that the batch of cable cover compound (likely PVC or polyurethane) did not contain enough antioxidant.


Best Regards

Michael Hambrick
ARLANXEO
TSR Global Manufacturing Support
PO Box 2000
Orange, TX 77631-2000
Phone: +1 (409) 882-2799
email: mike.hambrick@...


Re: Hand controller cables are cracking open #Keypad

coblr
 

Thank you.


Re: Hand controller cables are cracking open #Keypad

Karen Christen
 

Hello Hydrogia,

The part you want is E0190CABLE-F (with the white connector like yours); price is $75.  This item is not on our website, but I just went to look and we have them in stock.  Please call our office (815.282.1513) after 9am CDT time tomorrow and Daleen or Paige would be happy to help you. 

Karen C

AP

 

From: main@ap-gto.groups.io [mailto:main@ap-gto.groups.io] On Behalf Of hydrogia@...
Sent: Monday, August 31, 2020 7:09 PM
To: main@ap-gto.groups.io
Subject: Re: [ap-gto] Hand controller cables are cracking open #Keypad

 

Thank you, Sir.

I could only find the extension cable (CABKEY--), but I managed to take apart my controller and take a photo of what I'm looking for.

I've included here mostly so that I can reference in my contact request on the AP site. I'm really happy this just plugs in, kudos on the fantastic work with these things!


--
Karen Christen
Astro-Physics


Re: Hand controller cables are cracking open #Keypad

coblr
 

Thank you, Sir.

I could only find the extension cable (CABKEY--), but I managed to take apart my controller and take a photo of what I'm looking for.

I've included here mostly so that I can reference in my contact request on the AP site. I'm really happy this just plugs in, kudos on the fantastic work with these things!


Re: Hand controller cables are cracking open #Keypad

Chanan Greenberg
 

you can open the controller to see if it has a white or blue connector - call AP tell them your controller type and which connector is inside and they will send you a replacement cable which is not expensive. 


On Mon, Aug 31, 2020 at 4:02 PM <hydrogia@...> wrote:
I have a Mach1GTO, probably about 10 years old now, I'm the second owner for about 7 years now. The hand controller cable is cracking and splitting open for some reason. I'm looking for advice on what to do. From the hand controller:
S/N: 2806GTO
P/N: 111844

It's happening near both ends, and a little on the first couple of coils. It gets worse whenever they get any kind of use. Seems almost like the plastic is degrading and cracking away. The cables also have sort of a residue on the inside of the coils, again, like the plastic is degrading or something. The outside of the coil is shiny and new, the inside is matte (see photo below). They've had this residue for a while but now are starting to crack open so now it's an issue.

The mount/cables are usually in its Pelican case, never outside more than 36 hours and always wiped down with a dry cloth before storage. Never have they rubbed on anything sharp, been bent excessively, cleaned with chemicals or otherwise mistreated. The cables are never in direct sun for very long if at all. The power and motor cables are fine. They seem to be made of more durable material.

Do I need to send in? Is there a replacement available? I'm really hoping to not have to buy another hand controller for just the cable. The hand controller works fine aside from this arguably cosmetic issue.

Thanks for your help.


Re: Drift Alignment To Help With Unguided Images

Bill Long
 

I hear you on the Pacific Northwest skies. :) At that focal length I'd be hard pressed to get good data.


From: main@ap-gto.groups.io <main@ap-gto.groups.io> on behalf of Tony Benjamin <tonybenjamin@...>
Sent: Monday, August 31, 2020 4:20 PM
To: main@ap-gto.groups.io <main@ap-gto.groups.io>
Subject: Re: [ap-gto] Drift Alignment To Help With Unguided Images
 

Hi Dominique,

 

I think one of the real issues with the C11 Edge and imaging is when it comes time to do a meridian flip. It seems that the mirror will end up moving some small fraction which ends up making flats somewhat interesting as well. I can image fine with the C11 Edge and have used it quite a bit. I just want to get rid of the mirror flop issue once and for all. I don’t expect my images to be any better – just maybe do some unguided imaging and conquer its challenges J

 

Heres two images I managed in the last few months on the C11 Edge. No APOD worries – but I’ll blame the NW Pacific skies J

 

 

From: main@ap-gto.groups.io [mailto:main@ap-gto.groups.io] On Behalf Of Dominique Durand via groups.io
Sent: August 31, 2020 8:12 AM
To: main@ap-gto.groups.io
Subject: Re: [ap-gto] Drift Alignment To Help With Unguided Images

 

[Edited Message Follows]

Hi Tony,
With a C11HD obviously it's a little less simple. I am also in this perspective to be able to use my C11HD on my Mach2 with exposures of more than 1 'and everything depends on the possibility of making a good model.After trial and error, I ended up first improving my MES with Sharpcap, then I noticed in the models made that the orthogonality in DEC was really not good. Either Flip Mirror, or something else like tilt on the camera. As I have a motorized PO FT I have adjusted the MAP as well as possible with the mirror adjustment then blocked without forcing it and also modified the camera fixation. Yesterday evening the 29 point model then the 92 model, despite clouds coming to disturb the resolution of 10 points on the west, indicated better measurements in terms of orthogonality. I then made a test on a star low on the horizon (Near Jupiter) and near the meridian. After 5 'it was still positioned on the center of the crosshair (200%) on the image provided on Sharpcap. Then 6 'exposures on NGC6888 turned out to be quite successful.There are still areas for improvement to get a smoother tracking correction, but I think I can say that there is a possibility of modeling with a C11 and doing poses greater than 3 '.
The link with my post on the subject.
https://ap-gto.groups.io/g/main/topic/mach2_orthogonality/76392947?p=,,,20,0,0,0::recentpostdate%2Fsticky,,,20,2,20,76392947


Re: Drift Alignment To Help With Unguided Images

Tony Benjamin <tonybenjamin@...>
 

Hi Dominique,

 

I think one of the real issues with the C11 Edge and imaging is when it comes time to do a meridian flip. It seems that the mirror will end up moving some small fraction which ends up making flats somewhat interesting as well. I can image fine with the C11 Edge and have used it quite a bit. I just want to get rid of the mirror flop issue once and for all. I don’t expect my images to be any better – just maybe do some unguided imaging and conquer its challenges J

 

Heres two images I managed in the last few months on the C11 Edge. No APOD worries – but I’ll blame the NW Pacific skies J

 

 

From: main@ap-gto.groups.io [mailto:main@ap-gto.groups.io] On Behalf Of Dominique Durand via groups.io
Sent: August 31, 2020 8:12 AM
To: main@ap-gto.groups.io
Subject: Re: [ap-gto] Drift Alignment To Help With Unguided Images

 

[Edited Message Follows]

Hi Tony,
With a C11HD obviously it's a little less simple. I am also in this perspective to be able to use my C11HD on my Mach2 with exposures of more than 1 'and everything depends on the possibility of making a good model.After trial and error, I ended up first improving my MES with Sharpcap, then I noticed in the models made that the orthogonality in DEC was really not good. Either Flip Mirror, or something else like tilt on the camera. As I have a motorized PO FT I have adjusted the MAP as well as possible with the mirror adjustment then blocked without forcing it and also modified the camera fixation. Yesterday evening the 29 point model then the 92 model, despite clouds coming to disturb the resolution of 10 points on the west, indicated better measurements in terms of orthogonality. I then made a test on a star low on the horizon (Near Jupiter) and near the meridian. After 5 'it was still positioned on the center of the crosshair (200%) on the image provided on Sharpcap. Then 6 'exposures on NGC6888 turned out to be quite successful.There are still areas for improvement to get a smoother tracking correction, but I think I can say that there is a possibility of modeling with a C11 and doing poses greater than 3 '.
The link with my post on the subject.
https://ap-gto.groups.io/g/main/topic/mach2_orthogonality/76392947?p=,,,20,0,0,0::recentpostdate%2Fsticky,,,20,2,20,76392947


Re: Hand controller cables are cracking open #Keypad

Roland Christen
 

AP sells new cables that you can install yourself.

Rolando



-----Original Message-----
From: hydrogia@...
To: main@ap-gto.groups.io
Sent: Mon, Aug 31, 2020 6:00 pm
Subject: [ap-gto] Hand controller cables are cracking open #Keypad

I have a Mach1GTO, probably about 10 years old now, I'm the second owner for about 7 years now. The hand controller cable is cracking and splitting open for some reason. I'm looking for advice on what to do. From the hand controller:
S/N: 2806GTO
P/N: 111844

It's happening near both ends, and a little on the first couple of coils. It gets worse whenever they get any kind of use. Seems almost like the plastic is degrading and cracking away. The cables also have sort of a residue on the inside of the coils, again, like the plastic is degrading or something. The outside of the coil is shiny and new, the inside is matte (see photo below). They've had this residue for a while but now are starting to crack open so now it's an issue.

The mount/cables are usually in its Pelican case, never outside more than 36 hours and always wiped down with a dry cloth before storage. Never have they rubbed on anything sharp, been bent excessively, cleaned with chemicals or otherwise mistreated. The cables are never in direct sun for very long if at all. The power and motor cables are fine. They seem to be made of more durable material.

Do I need to send in? Is there a replacement available? I'm really hoping to not have to buy another hand controller for just the cable. The hand controller works fine aside from this arguably cosmetic issue.

Thanks for your help.


Hand controller cables are cracking open #Keypad

coblr
 

I have a Mach1GTO, probably about 10 years old now, I'm the second owner for about 7 years now. The hand controller cable is cracking and splitting open for some reason. I'm looking for advice on what to do. From the hand controller:
S/N: 2806GTO
P/N: 111844

It's happening near both ends, and a little on the first couple of coils. It gets worse whenever they get any kind of use. Seems almost like the plastic is degrading and cracking away. The cables also have sort of a residue on the inside of the coils, again, like the plastic is degrading or something. The outside of the coil is shiny and new, the inside is matte (see photo below). They've had this residue for a while but now are starting to crack open so now it's an issue.

The mount/cables are usually in its Pelican case, never outside more than 36 hours and always wiped down with a dry cloth before storage. Never have they rubbed on anything sharp, been bent excessively, cleaned with chemicals or otherwise mistreated. The cables are never in direct sun for very long if at all. The power and motor cables are fine. They seem to be made of more durable material.

Do I need to send in? Is there a replacement available? I'm really hoping to not have to buy another hand controller for just the cable. The hand controller works fine aside from this arguably cosmetic issue.

Thanks for your help.

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