Date   

Upgrading CP4 Firmware Question re "full initialization"

Tony Benjamin <tonybenjamin@...>
 

I needed to upgrade the CP4 software to the latest ver 14 (I was on 11) Went through the procedure listed in the .pdf of the software download and am wondering about the last item in the .pdf which says:



What is meant by a "full initialization"? I turned APCC back on and connected the mount and all looked normal with the Firmware showing the new ver 14. So, is this just old documentation or do I need to do something further?


Re: Hand controller cables are cracking open #Keypad

Michael Hambrick <mike.hambrick@...>
 

Does the cable cover feel brittle. The shiny appearance of the cable suggests to me that the cover material may have degraded. This can occur due to excessive heat or cold, or exposure to some chemicals. Any kind of oxidizing agents, or silicone based oils can be especially bad. It is also possible that the batch of cable cover compound (likely PVC or polyurethane) did not contain enough antioxidant.


Best Regards

Michael Hambrick
ARLANXEO
TSR Global Manufacturing Support
PO Box 2000
Orange, TX 77631-2000
Phone: +1 (409) 882-2799
email: mike.hambrick@...


Re: Hand controller cables are cracking open #Keypad

coblr
 

Thank you.


Re: Hand controller cables are cracking open #Keypad

Karen Christen
 

Hello Hydrogia,

The part you want is E0190CABLE-F (with the white connector like yours); price is $75.  This item is not on our website, but I just went to look and we have them in stock.  Please call our office (815.282.1513) after 9am CDT time tomorrow and Daleen or Paige would be happy to help you. 

Karen C

AP

 

From: main@ap-gto.groups.io [mailto:main@ap-gto.groups.io] On Behalf Of hydrogia@...
Sent: Monday, August 31, 2020 7:09 PM
To: main@ap-gto.groups.io
Subject: Re: [ap-gto] Hand controller cables are cracking open #Keypad

 

Thank you, Sir.

I could only find the extension cable (CABKEY--), but I managed to take apart my controller and take a photo of what I'm looking for.

I've included here mostly so that I can reference in my contact request on the AP site. I'm really happy this just plugs in, kudos on the fantastic work with these things!


--
Karen Christen
Astro-Physics


Re: Hand controller cables are cracking open #Keypad

coblr
 

Thank you, Sir.

I could only find the extension cable (CABKEY--), but I managed to take apart my controller and take a photo of what I'm looking for.

I've included here mostly so that I can reference in my contact request on the AP site. I'm really happy this just plugs in, kudos on the fantastic work with these things!


Re: Hand controller cables are cracking open #Keypad

Chanan Greenberg
 

you can open the controller to see if it has a white or blue connector - call AP tell them your controller type and which connector is inside and they will send you a replacement cable which is not expensive. 


On Mon, Aug 31, 2020 at 4:02 PM <hydrogia@...> wrote:
I have a Mach1GTO, probably about 10 years old now, I'm the second owner for about 7 years now. The hand controller cable is cracking and splitting open for some reason. I'm looking for advice on what to do. From the hand controller:
S/N: 2806GTO
P/N: 111844

It's happening near both ends, and a little on the first couple of coils. It gets worse whenever they get any kind of use. Seems almost like the plastic is degrading and cracking away. The cables also have sort of a residue on the inside of the coils, again, like the plastic is degrading or something. The outside of the coil is shiny and new, the inside is matte (see photo below). They've had this residue for a while but now are starting to crack open so now it's an issue.

The mount/cables are usually in its Pelican case, never outside more than 36 hours and always wiped down with a dry cloth before storage. Never have they rubbed on anything sharp, been bent excessively, cleaned with chemicals or otherwise mistreated. The cables are never in direct sun for very long if at all. The power and motor cables are fine. They seem to be made of more durable material.

Do I need to send in? Is there a replacement available? I'm really hoping to not have to buy another hand controller for just the cable. The hand controller works fine aside from this arguably cosmetic issue.

Thanks for your help.


Re: Drift Alignment To Help With Unguided Images

Bill Long
 

I hear you on the Pacific Northwest skies. :) At that focal length I'd be hard pressed to get good data.


From: main@ap-gto.groups.io <main@ap-gto.groups.io> on behalf of Tony Benjamin <tonybenjamin@...>
Sent: Monday, August 31, 2020 4:20 PM
To: main@ap-gto.groups.io <main@ap-gto.groups.io>
Subject: Re: [ap-gto] Drift Alignment To Help With Unguided Images
 

Hi Dominique,

 

I think one of the real issues with the C11 Edge and imaging is when it comes time to do a meridian flip. It seems that the mirror will end up moving some small fraction which ends up making flats somewhat interesting as well. I can image fine with the C11 Edge and have used it quite a bit. I just want to get rid of the mirror flop issue once and for all. I don’t expect my images to be any better – just maybe do some unguided imaging and conquer its challenges J

 

Heres two images I managed in the last few months on the C11 Edge. No APOD worries – but I’ll blame the NW Pacific skies J

 

 

From: main@ap-gto.groups.io [mailto:main@ap-gto.groups.io] On Behalf Of Dominique Durand via groups.io
Sent: August 31, 2020 8:12 AM
To: main@ap-gto.groups.io
Subject: Re: [ap-gto] Drift Alignment To Help With Unguided Images

 

[Edited Message Follows]

Hi Tony,
With a C11HD obviously it's a little less simple. I am also in this perspective to be able to use my C11HD on my Mach2 with exposures of more than 1 'and everything depends on the possibility of making a good model.After trial and error, I ended up first improving my MES with Sharpcap, then I noticed in the models made that the orthogonality in DEC was really not good. Either Flip Mirror, or something else like tilt on the camera. As I have a motorized PO FT I have adjusted the MAP as well as possible with the mirror adjustment then blocked without forcing it and also modified the camera fixation. Yesterday evening the 29 point model then the 92 model, despite clouds coming to disturb the resolution of 10 points on the west, indicated better measurements in terms of orthogonality. I then made a test on a star low on the horizon (Near Jupiter) and near the meridian. After 5 'it was still positioned on the center of the crosshair (200%) on the image provided on Sharpcap. Then 6 'exposures on NGC6888 turned out to be quite successful.There are still areas for improvement to get a smoother tracking correction, but I think I can say that there is a possibility of modeling with a C11 and doing poses greater than 3 '.
The link with my post on the subject.
https://ap-gto.groups.io/g/main/topic/mach2_orthogonality/76392947?p=,,,20,0,0,0::recentpostdate%2Fsticky,,,20,2,20,76392947


Re: Drift Alignment To Help With Unguided Images

Tony Benjamin <tonybenjamin@...>
 

Hi Dominique,

 

I think one of the real issues with the C11 Edge and imaging is when it comes time to do a meridian flip. It seems that the mirror will end up moving some small fraction which ends up making flats somewhat interesting as well. I can image fine with the C11 Edge and have used it quite a bit. I just want to get rid of the mirror flop issue once and for all. I don’t expect my images to be any better – just maybe do some unguided imaging and conquer its challenges J

 

Heres two images I managed in the last few months on the C11 Edge. No APOD worries – but I’ll blame the NW Pacific skies J

 

 

From: main@ap-gto.groups.io [mailto:main@ap-gto.groups.io] On Behalf Of Dominique Durand via groups.io
Sent: August 31, 2020 8:12 AM
To: main@ap-gto.groups.io
Subject: Re: [ap-gto] Drift Alignment To Help With Unguided Images

 

[Edited Message Follows]

Hi Tony,
With a C11HD obviously it's a little less simple. I am also in this perspective to be able to use my C11HD on my Mach2 with exposures of more than 1 'and everything depends on the possibility of making a good model.After trial and error, I ended up first improving my MES with Sharpcap, then I noticed in the models made that the orthogonality in DEC was really not good. Either Flip Mirror, or something else like tilt on the camera. As I have a motorized PO FT I have adjusted the MAP as well as possible with the mirror adjustment then blocked without forcing it and also modified the camera fixation. Yesterday evening the 29 point model then the 92 model, despite clouds coming to disturb the resolution of 10 points on the west, indicated better measurements in terms of orthogonality. I then made a test on a star low on the horizon (Near Jupiter) and near the meridian. After 5 'it was still positioned on the center of the crosshair (200%) on the image provided on Sharpcap. Then 6 'exposures on NGC6888 turned out to be quite successful.There are still areas for improvement to get a smoother tracking correction, but I think I can say that there is a possibility of modeling with a C11 and doing poses greater than 3 '.
The link with my post on the subject.
https://ap-gto.groups.io/g/main/topic/mach2_orthogonality/76392947?p=,,,20,0,0,0::recentpostdate%2Fsticky,,,20,2,20,76392947


Re: Hand controller cables are cracking open #Keypad

Roland Christen
 

AP sells new cables that you can install yourself.

Rolando



-----Original Message-----
From: hydrogia@...
To: main@ap-gto.groups.io
Sent: Mon, Aug 31, 2020 6:00 pm
Subject: [ap-gto] Hand controller cables are cracking open #Keypad

I have a Mach1GTO, probably about 10 years old now, I'm the second owner for about 7 years now. The hand controller cable is cracking and splitting open for some reason. I'm looking for advice on what to do. From the hand controller:
S/N: 2806GTO
P/N: 111844

It's happening near both ends, and a little on the first couple of coils. It gets worse whenever they get any kind of use. Seems almost like the plastic is degrading and cracking away. The cables also have sort of a residue on the inside of the coils, again, like the plastic is degrading or something. The outside of the coil is shiny and new, the inside is matte (see photo below). They've had this residue for a while but now are starting to crack open so now it's an issue.

The mount/cables are usually in its Pelican case, never outside more than 36 hours and always wiped down with a dry cloth before storage. Never have they rubbed on anything sharp, been bent excessively, cleaned with chemicals or otherwise mistreated. The cables are never in direct sun for very long if at all. The power and motor cables are fine. They seem to be made of more durable material.

Do I need to send in? Is there a replacement available? I'm really hoping to not have to buy another hand controller for just the cable. The hand controller works fine aside from this arguably cosmetic issue.

Thanks for your help.


Hand controller cables are cracking open #Keypad

coblr
 

I have a Mach1GTO, probably about 10 years old now, I'm the second owner for about 7 years now. The hand controller cable is cracking and splitting open for some reason. I'm looking for advice on what to do. From the hand controller:
S/N: 2806GTO
P/N: 111844

It's happening near both ends, and a little on the first couple of coils. It gets worse whenever they get any kind of use. Seems almost like the plastic is degrading and cracking away. The cables also have sort of a residue on the inside of the coils, again, like the plastic is degrading or something. The outside of the coil is shiny and new, the inside is matte (see photo below). They've had this residue for a while but now are starting to crack open so now it's an issue.

The mount/cables are usually in its Pelican case, never outside more than 36 hours and always wiped down with a dry cloth before storage. Never have they rubbed on anything sharp, been bent excessively, cleaned with chemicals or otherwise mistreated. The cables are never in direct sun for very long if at all. The power and motor cables are fine. They seem to be made of more durable material.

Do I need to send in? Is there a replacement available? I'm really hoping to not have to buy another hand controller for just the cable. The hand controller works fine aside from this arguably cosmetic issue.

Thanks for your help.


Re: Drift Alignment To Help With Unguided Images

Roland Christen
 

Probably not.

Rolando



-----Original Message-----
From: Peter Nagy <topboxman@...>
To: main@ap-gto.groups.io
Sent: Mon, Aug 31, 2020 5:24 pm
Subject: Re: [ap-gto] Drift Alignment To Help With Unguided Images

Would it be possible for Quad TCC to work with Planewave 12.5 CDK?

Peter 


Re: Drift Alignment To Help With Unguided Images

Peter Nagy
 

Would it be possible for Quad TCC to work with Planewave 12.5 CDK?

Peter 


At-GTO Group can't shrink APV2 window after expamd in Maxim DL

Joseph Bianco
 

Using Maxim DL i connect to the telescope and when the APV2 Driver v5.30.10 appears I can press the EXPAND >>>>> button and after the expand I can not shrink back to the single window.  Am I missing some feature that should be turned on?

Joseph


Re: Drift Alignment To Help With Unguided Images

Bill Long
 

That is the same scope I have. I bought it for these reasons:
  1. Planewave doesn't sell a 10" model, and I set up each night and need something lighter than 48 lbs.
  2. The focal length of the Planewave is a bit too long for my skies and the smaller pixel CMOS cameras. My plate solved focal length is 1720mm on the AGO.
  3. The focal ratio of the scope is the same as my AP130 GTX with its field flattener, which keeps the image scale the same when I bin the camera on the AGO 2x2.
  4. While I have only used it on my AP1100, I suspect the Mach 1 will be able to handle it. Although that would be more of a nice to have... 😉 
You do need to get a focuser, which the options from AGO directly are the Optec Leo, Optec Gemini, and Optec TCF3-i. I had Moonlite make a flange and an AP2.7" adapter for the NiteCrawler which works great on the AGO and I still have plenty of backfocus available. I use a 2" AP2.7 extension on top of my existing imaging accessories, so there is plenty of room to add more stuff if I wanted to. 

As I mentioned, I have the AP27TVPH, since its a good reducer for my RCOS scope as well. I have yet to test it on the AGO iDK but based on what you shared I think it will work great. While I would prob have to crop on my big full frame camera, my 16200 and 8300 would work great I would imagine. I am in the middle of a project now (PacMan Nebula) on the AGO so no changes until that is over. I went with the AP2.7 interface on the NiteCrawler specifically because the extensions are easy to come by, the reducer is 2.7" threaded, and I have the adapters I need to convert all of my imaging equipment to use AP2.7 rather easily.



From: main@ap-gto.groups.io <main@ap-gto.groups.io> on behalf of Peter Nagy <topboxman@...>
Sent: Monday, August 31, 2020 11:36 AM
To: main@ap-gto.groups.io <main@ap-gto.groups.io>
Subject: Re: [ap-gto] Drift Alignment To Help With Unguided Images
 
Tony,

Have you considered AG Optical iDK scope? The focal ratio is 6.7 and no reducer or flattener necessary. Might give you less headaches than Planewave. Cost more than Planewave plus you need to buy a 3rd party focuser. Precise Parts don't even list AG Optical for building adapters which I find it strange. The back focus is pretty long which is good.

http://agoptical.com/10-imaging-dall-kirkham/

Send pictures of your new setup.

Peter 


Re: Pillars of M16

CurtisC
 

Thank you, Karen.  I noticed there was an "accept all cookies" button at the bottom of the page.  I think I'm set up now to receive notifications about the Mach2.  Roland has pretty much convinced me that it's a major upgrade from my Mach1.


Re: Drift Alignment To Help With Unguided Images

Peter Nagy
 

Tony,

Have you considered AG Optical iDK scope? The focal ratio is 6.7 and no reducer or flattener necessary. Might give you less headaches than Planewave. Cost more than Planewave plus you need to buy a 3rd party focuser. Precise Parts don't even list AG Optical for building adapters which I find it strange. The back focus is pretty long which is good.

http://agoptical.com/10-imaging-dall-kirkham/

Send pictures of your new setup.

Peter 


Re: Drift Alignment To Help With Unguided Images

Kent Kirkley
 

Unguided imaging?
As a virtually life long imager unguided imaging is a commendable goal.
Someday, when photon collection becomes short it might be possible,
but there are so many factors involved such as instrument flexure and atmospheric
disturbance that makes guiding a reality.





-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Long <bill@...>
To: Peter Nagy <topboxman@...>; main@ap-gto.groups.io <main@ap-gto.groups.io>
Sent: Mon, Aug 31, 2020 1:01 pm
Subject: Re: [ap-gto] Drift Alignment To Help With Unguided Images

Looks pretty solid to me.


From: main@ap-gto.groups.io <main@ap-gto.groups.io> on behalf of Peter Nagy <topboxman@...>
Sent: Monday, August 31, 2020 10:57 AM
To: main@ap-gto.groups.io <main@ap-gto.groups.io>
Subject: Re: [ap-gto] Drift Alignment To Help With Unguided Images
 
Found this Planewave 12.5 CDK using AP27TVPH:

http://www.compubuild.com/astro/planewave/AP27TVPH-PW.htm

Peter 


Re: Drift Alignment To Help With Unguided Images

Peter Nagy
 

Bill,

You are correct about the ridiculously short back focus of Planewave reducer:

https://www.planewave.eu/fileadmin/Daten/downloads/Reducer-Manual-20140102.pdf

Peter 


Re: Drift Alignment To Help With Unguided Images

Bill Long
 

Looks pretty solid to me.


From: main@ap-gto.groups.io <main@ap-gto.groups.io> on behalf of Peter Nagy <topboxman@...>
Sent: Monday, August 31, 2020 10:57 AM
To: main@ap-gto.groups.io <main@ap-gto.groups.io>
Subject: Re: [ap-gto] Drift Alignment To Help With Unguided Images
 
Found this Planewave 12.5 CDK using AP27TVPH:

http://www.compubuild.com/astro/planewave/AP27TVPH-PW.htm

Peter 


Re: Pillars of M16

Karen Christen
 

Hello Curtis (?),

 

You may have to search for “how to allow cookies” for the web browser you’re using.  For example, I tend to use Chrome, so here’s a link to the instructions I found for turning cookies off/on for Chrome:  https://support.google.com/accounts/answer/61416?co=GENIE.Platform%3DDesktop&hl=en

 

This is what a Notify Me button looks like.  It’s located on the product main page, on the right below the price and options, above the information tabs.

Karen

AP

 

 

From: main@ap-gto.groups.io [mailto:main@ap-gto.groups.io] On Behalf Of CurtisC via groups.io
Sent: Monday, August 31, 2020 12:55 PM
To: main@ap-gto.groups.io
Subject: Re: [ap-gto] Pillars of M16

 

[Edited Message Follows]

Hmm.  I don't know where to go from here.  Thanks.  What does a "notify me" button look like?


--
Karen Christen
Astro-Physics

6261 - 6280 of 79096