Date   

Re: AP1200 pier adapter

msscl@...
 

--- In ap-gto@..., Greg Mueller <mueller@s...> wrote:
I am doing the same thing and ran into the same problem. I am using
three
5/8" bolts 120° apart, coming out of the pier. One of my bolts
(the
north
most) and their place for a bolt clashed. My solution was to use
one
of
their places for the 1/4" bolt (the southern most bolt hole) and
then put in
two more 120° apart from that one. Works fine. I have and
"adapter
block"
that fits inbetween the pier and the AP plate where the transition
occures.
It's at the anodizers now or I'd send you a foto.
Yes, I could do the same but if I'm going to get a plate made it may
as well be a custom pier adapter leaving the AP plate for use on a
portable pier. I took a lot of trouble to get the mounting studs on
my
pier level so it makes sense to use them if I can.

Alex.


Re: 400 GTO First report

Mark B. Wilson <Markw@...>
 

I want a copy also.

-----Original Message-----
From: Terry Johnson [mailto:tjohnson@...]
Sent: Sunday, July 02, 2000 10:12 AM
To: ap-gto@...
Subject: Re: [ap-gto] 400 GTO First report


I would like to see your daylight procedure for correcting orthoganol
alignment.

Thanks...Terry Johnson

----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael A. Roth" <maroth@...>
To: <ap-gto@...>
Sent: Sunday, July 02, 2000 2:46 AM
Subject: Re: [ap-gto] 400 GTO First report


Jeff:
I am one such person who received a non-orthogonal mount from
AstroPhysics. You need a lot of time and some patience and DAYLIGHT to
correct this problem. In fact, if you have the light and the time you
might even enjoy it. I devised a daylight correct procedure to do so.
If you ever need this procedure let me know.

Sincerely,
Mike Roth

Incidentally, I sent my sliding bar BACK because I found it too dangerous
to use. The simple flat plate is MUCH better and I have yet to have a
single heart-stopping moment with it and I have a 155.

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Re: 400 GTO First report

toddg18522@...
 

In a message dated 7/3/00 1:04:38 PM EST, ray@... writes:

<<
Usually the 1/2 way won't work well if the mount is not very level.
In that case, you will get one axis affecting the other. Otherwise it
has always worked quite well for me (30+ times with my 1200). Of course
the OTA has to be close to orthogonal too.

-Ray
>>

okay, i've been doing this, but didn't realize about it needing to be level,
thanks


Re: Manuals online?

Michael Roth
 

To S. Reilley:
Prior to the arrival of my 600EGTO, I called AstroPhysics and asked for a
manual to study. They sent me one right away no charge.

Mike Roth


Re: AP1200 pier adapter

Greg Mueller <mueller@...>
 

I am doing the same thing and ran into the same problem. I am using three
5/8" bolts 120 apart, coming out of the pier. One of my bolts (the north
most) and their place for a bolt clashed. My solution was to use one of
their places for the 1/4" bolt (the southern most bolt hole) and then put in
two more 120 apart from that one. Works fine. I have and "adapter block"
that fits inbetween the pier and the AP plate where the transition occures.
It's at the anodizers now or I'd send you a foto.

Alex Colburn wrote:

I have an AP1200 on order and intend to mount it on a concrete pier in
my observatory. AP sent me the sheet detailing the holes to be used for
mounting it to your own pier. Unfortunately the position of these holes
clashes very badly with the fixings in my pier which are resin anchored
into the reinforced concrete. I propose to have a custom pier adapter
made with the correct mounting holes ready for when the mount arrives.
To do this I need some accurate measurements of the various holes and
parts on the AP adapter:

1.The size and relative position of the azimuth adjuster block.

2.The thread size and relative positions of the four mount attachment
holes.

3.The size and thread size of the centering screw.

I guess it would be best to reference all dimensions to the centering
screw. I hope someone can help me out here, I'd hate to wait until the
mount arrives before being able to get the plate made.

Thanks, Alex.

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--
Greg Mueller

I killed Kenny, m'kay?


Manuals online?

sreilly@...
 

As I await patiently for a call on the AP900GTO's I thought that being
able to read over a manual would be a great help. Anyone have a 900
manual online anywhere? Any suggestions? Thanks in advance. Currently I
am using a Losmandy G-11 german mount.


Steve


AP1200 pier adapter

Alex Colburn <msscl@...>
 

I have an AP1200 on order and intend to mount it on a concrete pier in
my observatory. AP sent me the sheet detailing the holes to be used for
mounting it to your own pier. Unfortunately the position of these holes
clashes very badly with the fixings in my pier which are resin anchored
into the reinforced concrete. I propose to have a custom pier adapter
made with the correct mounting holes ready for when the mount arrives.
To do this I need some accurate measurements of the various holes and
parts on the AP adapter:

1.The size and relative position of the azimuth adjuster block.

2.The thread size and relative positions of the four mount attachment
holes.

3.The size and thread size of the centering screw.

I guess it would be best to reference all dimensions to the centering
screw. I hope someone can help me out here, I'd hate to wait until the
mount arrives before being able to get the plate made.

Thanks, Alex.


Re: 400 GTO First report

Jeffrey D. Gortatowsky
 

In a message dated 7/2/00 5:48:37 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
maroth@...
Hi Mike,
I also am one such "lucky" person who had a non-ortho mount. If you have
time would you please share your method? Previous efforts of mine have
failed.
You mean a production defect? Or you are using something with the mount that
is making it 'non-ortho'. Just how bad are we talking? My 400 GTO mount,
when it slewed all the way from one side of the meridian to another still
put the star in question with 3 arc-mins of the other star's position in the
EP. The FOV of the EP was only 6'.

clear skies,
Jeff


Re: 400 GTO First report

rck <rkuberek@...>
 

"Michael A. Roth" wrote:

Jeff:
I am one such person who received a non-orthogonal mount from
AstroPhysics. You need a lot of time and some patience and DAYLIGHT to
correct this problem. In fact, if you have the light and the time you
might even enjoy it. I devised a daylight correct procedure to do so.
If you ever need this procedure let me know.
Michael,

I need to do this b/c the dp on my C11 is crooked. Could you send me
your procedure?

Regards,
Bob K.


Re: 400 GTO First report

Terry Johnson <tjohnson@...>
 

I would like to see your daylight procedure for correcting orthoganol
alignment.

Thanks...Terry Johnson

----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael A. Roth" <maroth@...>
To: <ap-gto@...>
Sent: Sunday, July 02, 2000 2:46 AM
Subject: Re: [ap-gto] 400 GTO First report


Jeff:
I am one such person who received a non-orthogonal mount from
AstroPhysics. You need a lot of time and some patience and DAYLIGHT to
correct this problem. In fact, if you have the light and the time you
might even enjoy it. I devised a daylight correct procedure to do so.
If you ever need this procedure let me know.

Sincerely,
Mike Roth

Incidentally, I sent my sliding bar BACK because I found it too dangerous
to use. The simple flat plate is MUCH better and I have yet to have a
single heart-stopping moment with it and I have a 155.

------------------------------------------------------------------------
Life's too short to send boring email. Let SuperSig come to the rescue.
http://click.egroups.com/1/6137/7/_/3615/_/962531278/
------------------------------------------------------------------------



Re: 400 GTO First report

Derek Wong <dawong@...>
 

I figured six times meant I might have the dreaded 'orthogonalilty' problem.
Now how in @^#$ am I suppose to shim this scope when it's mounted. Man that
looks like a non-newmoon night task. I am not gonna try that in the complete
dark!
Hi Jeff:

You are right, it is frustrating wasting valuable time do orthogonality
at a dark site (if we are at the same dark site I will bring a polar
scope). You may not have as much problem with orthogonality as you
think. Sometimes the alignment procedure does not converge very
rapidly. For visual use, I still think the best way to align is to get
a polar scope, which is rumored to be out soon from AP. For photos,
Roland had some good suggestions which are in message 10 of this group.
Other people use slightly different methods, but I can't remember where
their messages are. Perhaps we should make a FAQ to this group, after
this nearly born child lets me get some sleep...

Derek


Re: 400 GTO First report

Michael Roth
 

Jeff:
I am one such person who received a non-orthogonal mount from
AstroPhysics. You need a lot of time and some patience and DAYLIGHT to
correct this problem. In fact, if you have the light and the time you
might even enjoy it. I devised a daylight correct procedure to do so.
If you ever need this procedure let me know.

Sincerely,
Mike Roth

Incidentally, I sent my sliding bar BACK because I found it too dangerous
to use. The simple flat plate is MUCH better and I have yet to have a
single heart-stopping moment with it and I have a 155.


Re: 400 GTO First report

steppzimmr@...
 

In a message dated 7/2/00 5:48:37 AM Eastern Daylight Time, maroth@...
writes:

<< I devised a daylight correct procedure to do so.
If you ever need this procedure let me know. >>

Hi Mike,

I also am one such "lucky" person who had a non-ortho mount. If you have
time would you please share your method? Previous efforts of mine have
failed.

Thanks for any help, Peter


400 GTO First report

Jeffrey D. Gortatowsky
 

I am on my way back out to Anza tonight in a moment but wanted to let you,
and maybe the folks at AP know, the 400GTO worked very well. As an aside,
while I have never been to Mount Pinos, the S&T article was a bit harsh on
Anza.

Anyways I used a 400GTO with a 130EDT f/8. I installed the 15DOVE which came
with the scope but oddly enough the scope came from it's previous owner with
a GM8 and Losmandy D series plates as well. I thought Christine was send me
the screws for the 15 inch plate but I misunderstood. There is a flat plate
as well and she sent me the screws for that. As you know, is you use those
cap screws with the dove plate, the sliding bar does not slide. <g> So I
order and got some flat head socket screws from McMaster online. I am not
exactly sure how to secure a safety screw to keep the scope from sliding
accidentally, but I was just darn careful when loosening the locks on the
dove plate.

Anyway I secured the rings, still with the 'adaptor blocks' on the bottom of
them, to the sliding bar using one 1 1/2 inch 1/4-20 screw. I don't thing I
need the blocks. If fact they may cause the dreaded 'orthogonality'
problems. Beats me. I followed the manual and setup the wood tripod and
mount with no scope on it and waited for Polaris. I sighted Polaris through
the hole in the RA axis and put the scope on the mount. Whoa! Waaaay outta
balance BIG time and the Dec and RA locks won't hold it. Gotta be REAL
careful and learn where the setup balance points are. I needed both 6 and 9
pound counterweights. Apparently Roland does not believe the locks should be
like vises.<g> They are there to provide 'enough friction' when the scope is
balanced. <sigh> Later this was to be a real pain as the 4mm Takahashi EP
and the 31mm Terminagler are like the odd couple of EPs when it comes to
mass. 8^)

Okay, so the time of year is right and I can follow the manual! Sight Vega
(I used a 7.5mm EP as I forgot my 6mm illuminated crosshair EP). Back to
Polaris. Whoa! Outta balance and the objective end of the tube headed south
down the Dec axis! Fortunately I was right there. Okay move the tube back a
bit in the rings and start over. Vega, Goto, Polaris. Whoa!<g> Not even
within the quickfinder's 2 degree circle! Grunt grunt, wrestle, wrestle and
I moved the tripod, scope and all. Ow! Okay, I _gotta_ balance that tube
some more in declination... <g>. Okay Polaris is in the quickfinder, and I
played with the fine adjustments to center Polaris in the EP. Oooooh NOW I
see what Ron Wodaski means about tighten the screws after an azimuth
adjustment! You have to 'lead them' in the EP. 8^| Oh well. What do I care,
I am not imaging. <g> Back to Vega. Off by 3 degrees! Back to Polaris, off
by 2.5... I see a trend<g>. And so it went for about 6 times. But it did
converged. Cool. It took about 30 to 45 minutes for this 'first timer'.

I figured six times meant I might have the dreaded 'orthogonalilty' problem.
Now how in @^#$ am I suppose to shim this scope when it's mounted. Man that
looks like a non-newmoon night task. I am not gonna try that in the complete
dark! I'll take those 'adaptor' blocks off the rings next time and try that
first. Then it'll be an ALL AP setup. So ff I went to quantify that
orthogonality problem. Follow directions... hmm... it's 9:30PDT on
6/30/2000, Arcturus might work just like the directions say. It slewed to
Arcturus. Whallala-be-darned. It's right there! Center it and choose
epsilon. (or was it eta? dunno the manual is downstairs) Whats this? The
scope just move slightly and it center epsilon. Darn! (and it was
dangerously close to the tripod leg<g>!). Maybe I should have had a safe
zone defined? Or maybe the people who wrote the manual did. Or maybe it was
just too late and both stars were across the meridian. Anyhoo I used Zeta
Herc and Alpha CrB and that worked. What a cool mount. All that movement to
completely the other side and Alpha CrB was in the FOV of the 7.5mm and the
R.A. error was quite small. I'll of course need a crosshair EP to quantify
it. I decided that was *good* enough.

Bottom line was, it was a very accurate mount. I messed up the balance (31mm
T5) and it moved on me in declination once or twice. So I did a N Pole
alignment using the 7.5 and a 1.8x TV barlow and it was as good as I left it
the first time. Then, I left the 7.5 and 1.8x barlow in (249x, 6' FOV) and
slewed to Zeta Boo and was virtually centered. Not bad guys. No HPP mode
needed! <g>

The mount was VERY stable. As good or actually IMO better than the GM8. That
tripod is a gem. You can whack it and it damps in second. I rap tested the
tube and it was steady in 1-2 seconds.

Soooo my only buggaboo is the balance thing. I guess I'll just get used to
it. Or I'll have to remember to start using that brass equalizer I bought a
year or two ago.

Clear skies,
Jeff


Re: Shure VPL/93

Paul Hyndman <pghyndman@...>
 

Hi Chuck,

The system has a list price of $500+ and, since it isn't a run-of-the-
mill item, is neither in stock or discounted at most authorized
dealers.

BUT....

the guys at Agus Industries (1-888-922-2295) or:
http://www.argusind.com/vp3system.html

have the whole shebang (receiver, xmitter, mike, leatherette storage
pouch, and accessories)... in stock... for $331.50! Another site was
willing to sell me one for a couple of bucks cheaper, but did not
have them in stock, whereas Argus shipped it out the very next day...
nice guys to chat with too! (Tim and Joe? I think)

Paul

Where did you buy the Shure VPL/93, and for how much, if I may ask?


Shure VPL/93

Chuck Hancock
 

Paul--

Where did you buy the Shure VPL/93, and for how much, if I may ask?

--
Best regards,
Chuck Hancock

c d h 5 9 at b e l l s o u t h d o t n e t


Re: My mount talks<.g>

Paul Hyndman <pghyndman@...>
 

Hi Peter,
 
I got the Shure VPL/93. I wanted a unit that (besides working properly with DSV!) would be able to be powered via my 12VDC scope-side power supply (12 VDC battery :o). Most of the Shure receivers I had seen, were spec'd as using 12.5 to 18 VDC. Not wanting to use an inverter for an AC alternative, or having to worry about the fact that my battery voltage may be insufficient... or get that way later on during the session (although I do most of my viewing in my own backyard, I don't want to have to schlep to many things out there). I decided to see what AP's experiences were.
 
They have a power source readily available in their observatory, so had not had to much exposure to my potential quandry. Christine generously contacted the techies at Shure and explained the situation.
 
Their recommendation was the VPL/93, as besides providing the audio quality I was seeking, it could be powered by 12VDC or (better yet!) 9VDC self-contained (transistor radio) batteries.
 
So far it seems to be working like a charm (I haven't had too much opportunity to give it a decent shake-down yet though... courtesy of the weather and my schedule! 
 
Paul

----- Original Message -----
Sent: Friday, June 30, 2000 6:24 AM
Subject: Re: [ap-gto] My mount talks<.g>

Paul, which Shure wireless mike are you using?  And what sort of help did
Christine provide?  I am curious because I have yet to set up my DSV. Thanks,
Peter


Re: Digital Setting Circles vs Goto Accuracy

Larry Denmark <kldenmark@...>
 

Hi Brian,

I can't answer the specifics in your question, but the best pointing
accuracy you can get with 4,000 tic encoders is 324 arc seconds (360
degrees x 60 min. x 60 sec. / 4,000). The GTO mounts form AP have the
encoder mechanism built into the motors (I think) and give an accuracy
of 0.2 arc seconds.

Larry

E-mail . . . kldenmark@...
Web site . . http://home.att.net/~kldenmark/


Hey Group,
I have an AP400GOTO and a 1200 QMD with NGC max and setting circles.
The dscs are 4000 tic encoders. If I take a little extra time to
align carefully using a 150x EP and level the mount (1200) I can get
the object in the FOV of the 150x EP.
Last night in using the 400goto I noticed it dead centers the object
after a careful polar reiteration and leveling of the mount.
Question is how many "tics" or what is the comparative accuracy of
the two? Does goto have 12000 tic or 24000 tic or the same 4000
tic?
an enquiring mind wants to know.
thanks
Brian


Digital Setting Circles vs Goto Accuracy

Brian <brian@...>
 

Hey Group,
I have an AP400GOTO and a 1200 QMD with NGC max and setting circles.
The dscs are 4000 tic encoders. If I take a little extra time to
align carefully using a 150x EP and level the mount (1200) I can get
the object in the FOV of the 150x EP.
Last night in using the 400goto I noticed it dead centers the object
after a careful polar reiteration and leveling of the mount.
Question is how many "tics" or what is the comparative accuracy of
the two? Does goto have 12000 tic or 24000 tic or the same 4000 tic?
an enquiring mind wants to know.
thanks
Brian


Re: My mount talks<.g>

steppzimmr@...
 

Paul, which Shure wireless mike are you using? And what sort of help did
Christine provide? I am curious because I have yet to set up my DSV. Thanks,
Peter