Date   

Re: Is Yahoo Groups moderating every messages?

Gregory <fyrframe@...>
 

You would have to filter about 100,000 posts a day.

I have the same problem. Yahoo has been misbehaving for some time now. My posts simply never showed up in the forums. Any Yahoo forum. Now they are starting to show up, but it takes up to several days before posting. Some posts are immediate and others seem to take extra time.

One of the oddities is that, yes to some degree I got my email back from Yahoo, but now, I can not post to conversations in a forum that is based out of RIT university and it's email forum and server. Now my post to the university's forums no longer appear. And the list owner doesn't have a clue as to why my email are not showing up in the forum.

That's what I know.

Gregory Gig Harbor, WA.



On 1/31/2018 8:54 AM, pnagy@... [ap-gto] wrote:
 

Lately, it seems to take 2 days for my posts to get through. Is Yahoo Groups moderating every messages sent?

Peter




Re: Is Yahoo Groups moderating every messages?

Keith Olsen
 

I agree, Yahoo Groups has become a terrible forum system.  Unfortunately they have been around for such a long time that they have a huge collection of older messages that are valuable and that makes it hard to move to a new system.  But I'm starting to see other groups that I belong to move to new systems.   


Re: Is Yahoo Groups moderating every messages?

Joel Short
 

Yahoo has been going downhill for quite some time now.  Sometimes my email replies to yahoo groups takes a day or two to arrive.  Most of the time if I reply online through the group itself it comes through soon, but not always.  I for one would favor moving to a different system for all of the yahoo groups that I'm part of.
joel

On Wed, Jan 31, 2018 at 10:54 AM, pnagy@... [ap-gto] <ap-gto@...> wrote:
 

Lately, it seems to take 2 days for my posts to get through. Is Yahoo Groups moderating every messages sent?

Peter



Re: Last Step after replacing L chip to V chip

dsidote@...
 

Thanks, Peter and Dale. The cable that Optec supplies with the focuslynx is way longer than I need. I thought about purchasing another one from Optec and shortening it but they charge $55 for the cable. I was hoping you had an ingenious DIY solution.

Sorry for the off-topic post.

Dave


Re: Custom serial cables (was: Last Step after replacing L chip to V chip)

Dale Ghent
 

On Jan 31, 2018, at 10:41 AM, pnagy@sbcglobal.net [ap-gto] <ap-gto@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Dave,

I didn't realized you were asking about the focus controller. It was early this morning and have not yet drank coffee. Anyway, the cable that came with the focus controller was pretty long but usable. Eventually I want a shorter cable and could not find it anywhere so I cut the cable and crimp the connector to the open end of the cable.
That's the way to do it.

I would suggest to any enterprising individual to cur their own serial (and ethernet) cables if they desire custom lengths. Pre-assembled DB9 (male or female) to 8P8C (RJ45) adaptors are $1-$2 at most, and one can use bulk solid-core ethernet twisted pair to make desired lengths, with a 8-pin (8P8C) modular jack to terminate the ends.

A small spool of bulk ethernet cable, a baggie of jacks, the crimper, and a few common tools (side cutters and a sharp Xacto knife) are all one needs and don't cost much. One could probably get away with all the makings for a bunch of cables for under $40. Places like Monoprice sell cat 5e cable in bulk at sub-1000' foot lengths which saves one from having to sit on a lot of unused cable (unless of course one plans on using all of a typical 1000' spool of bulk ethernet ;)

/dale


Re: The Sky error mesage

Steve Reilly
 

Which OS?

 

 

From: ap-gto@... [mailto:ap-gto@...]
Sent: Monday, January 29, 2018 7:55 AM
To: ap-gto@...
Subject: [ap-gto] The Sky error mesage

 

 

Friends,
any idea why im getting this error message with ASCOM ? it was connecting
perfectly last year. I have the latest updates now
Suresh

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: Guiding AP mounts with PHD

Dan
 

Very interesting. I always hear slow the exposure in bad seeing. Or else your “chasing seeing.” Constantly bouncing around. 
But this makes sense, find the threshold of your seeing and guide based on that. 
I can’t wait to try this. 

Dan Pelzel


On Jan 31, 2018, at 7:51 PM, chris1011@... [ap-gto] <ap-gto@...> wrote:

 

Howdy,

Howard and I had a chance to log in to a customer's Mach1 mount last night to help him with some guiding issues using PHD. He had sent his calibration graph and it looked quite good, but he was having some problems guiding. After doing some mechanical tests we set up parameters in PHD to get the mount to track and respond accurately. Since PHD is somewhat different from MaximDL, which I use, we had to approach the settings a bit differently.

The first step is to do a quick 2 - 3 minute Unguided run using 1 second guide exposures, and look at the guider graph to see what the maximum excursions are in Declination. The guide star will bounce around a certain amount and this peak error will be the seeing that you cannot guide out with normal guide software. This P-V value, which in our case was between +-0.5 and +-0.8 arc seconds is what I call the Guide Star "Bobble" limit. Trying to correct for that with guide moves to the mount is impossible (only a fast acting AO system can chase that seeing error).

So, knowing that the minimum seeing error is +-0.8 arc seconds, you will want to set the initial Min Move setting in PHD to be approximately this value as a starting value. We set the Min Move to 0.8 arc sec, the guide rate at 1x and the aggressiveness to 100%.  This means that no correction pulses are sent to the mount while the guide star is bobbling within that envelope, but once it exceeds even slightly, the mount gets a full correction command (-0.8 arc sec) to bring it back toward the zero position. We turned guiding on and the result was that the mount responded quickly whenever the error exceeded the bobble limits and overall guiding was tight, accurate and almost the same RMS value, ~0.35 arc sec, for both axes. An exposure with the main camera showed tight round stars.

So, as a starting point:
Determine the amount of guide star bobble above and below the axis
Set the Min Move to that value
Set Guide rate to 1x sidereal
Set the guide star exposure rate to 1 second
Set Aggressiveness to 100%
Begin guiding and note the RMS value for both axes.

You can then change any of the parameters to see if you can tune the RMS to a lower value. We tried longer guide star exposures, but found that the response to tracking errors became more and more sluggish and less accurate. So for these seeing conditions a faster guide rate of 1 per second resulted in the lowest RMS error on both axes. In pristine seeing it might allow longer guide exposures, at least that is what we found using PHD Guiding.

Rolando


Guiding AP mounts with PHD

Roland Christen
 

Howdy,

Howard and I had a chance to log in to a customer's Mach1 mount last night to help him with some guiding issues using PHD. He had sent his calibration graph and it looked quite good, but he was having some problems guiding. After doing some mechanical tests we set up parameters in PHD to get the mount to track and respond accurately. Since PHD is somewhat different from MaximDL, which I use, we had to approach the settings a bit differently.

The first step is to do a quick 2 - 3 minute Unguided run using 1 second guide exposures, and look at the guider graph to see what the maximum excursions are in Declination. The guide star will bounce around a certain amount and this peak error will be the seeing that you cannot guide out with normal guide software. This P-V value, which in our case was between +-0.5 and +-0.8 arc seconds is what I call the Guide Star "Bobble" limit. Trying to correct for that with guide moves to the mount is impossible (only a fast acting AO system can chase that seeing error).

So, knowing that the minimum seeing error is +-0.8 arc seconds, you will want to set the initial Min Move setting in PHD to be approximately this value as a starting value. We set the Min Move to 0.8 arc sec, the guide rate at 1x and the aggressiveness to 100%.  This means that no correction pulses are sent to the mount while the guide star is bobbling within that envelope, but once it exceeds even slightly, the mount gets a full correction command (-0.8 arc sec) to bring it back toward the zero position. We turned guiding on and the result was that the mount responded quickly whenever the error exceeded the bobble limits and overall guiding was tight, accurate and almost the same RMS value, ~0.35 arc sec, for both axes. An exposure with the main camera showed tight round stars.

So, as a starting point:
Determine the amount of guide star bobble above and below the axis
Set the Min Move to that value
Set Guide rate to 1x sidereal
Set the guide star exposure rate to 1 second
Set Aggressiveness to 100%
Begin guiding and note the RMS value for both axes.

You can then change any of the parameters to see if you can tune the RMS to a lower value. We tried longer guide star exposures, but found that the response to tracking errors became more and more sluggish and less accurate. So for these seeing conditions a faster guide rate of 1 per second resulted in the lowest RMS error on both axes. In pristine seeing it might allow longer guide exposures, at least that is what we found using PHD Guiding.

Rolando


Re: The Sky error mesage

Worsel
 

Suresh

Without seeing the error, I am just guessing that this is related to recent windows 10 "upgrade", which broke some COM connectivity that impacted ASCOM and The Sky.


A fix, supposedly, is available.



Bryan


Re: Help with guiding the Mach1GTO

Roland Christen
 


Determine the amount of guide star bobble above and below the axis
I forgot to mention that you want to ignore drift, you want just the back and forth error.

Rolando


-----Original Message-----
From: chris1011@... [ap-gto]
To: ap-gto
Sent: Wed, Jan 31, 2018 2:02 pm
Subject: Re: [ap-gto] Help with guiding the Mach1GTO



Howdy,

Howard and I had a chance to log in to a customer's Mach1 mount last night to help him with some guiding issues using PHD. He had sent his calibration graph and it looked quite good, but he was having some problems guiding. After doing some mechanical tests we set up parameters in PHD to get the mount to track and respond accurately. Since PHD is somewhat different from MaximDL, which I use, we had to approach the settings a bit differently.

The first step is to do a quick 2 - 3 minute Unguided run using 1 second guide exposures, and look at the guider graph to see what the maximum excursions are in Declination. The guide star will bounce around a certain amount and this peak error will be the seeing that you cannot guide out with normal guide software. This P-V value, which in our case was between +-0.5 and +-0.8 arc seconds is what I call the Guide Star "Bobble" limit. Trying to correct for that with guide moves to the mount is impossible (only a fast acting AO system can chase that seeing error).

So, knowing that the minimum seeing error is +-0.8 arc seconds, you will want to set the initial Min Move setting in PHD to be approximately this value as a starting value. We set the Min Move to 0.8 arc sec, the guide rate at 1x and the aggressiveness to 100%.  This means that no correction pulses are sent to the mount while the guide star is bobbling within that envelope, but once it exceeds even slightly, the mount gets a full correction command (-0.8 arc sec) to bring it back toward the zero position. We turned guiding on and the result was that the mount responded quickly whenever the error exceeded the bobble limits and overall guiding was tight, accurate and almost the same RMS value, ~0.35 arc sec, for both axes. An exposure with the main camera showed tight round stars.

So, as a starting point:
Determine the amount of guide star bobble above and below the axis
Set the Min Move to that value
Set Guide rate to 1x sidereal
Set the guide star exposure rate to 1 second
Set Aggressiveness to 100%
Begin guiding and note the RMS value for both axes.

You can then change any of the parameters to see if you can tune the RMS to a lower value. We tried longer guide star exposures, but found that the response to tracking errors became more and more sluggish and less accurate. So for these seeing conditions a faster guide rate of 1 per second resulted in the lowest RMS error on both axes. In pristine seeing it might allow longer guide exposures, at least that is what we found using PHD Guiding.

Rolando






-----Original Message-----
From: Ron Kramer ronkramer1957@... [ap-gto] gto@...>
To: ap-gto gto@...>
Sent: Wed, Jan 31, 2018 8:25 am
Subject: Re: [ap-gto] Help with guiding the Mach1GTO



I had those long alternating pulses - no backlash eliminated them.  Do not bother with backlash test in guiding assistant. I kinda don't have much faith in any of that assistance with this mount.  
Mine just started withing great with a clean PHD install.  ODDLY - the default for both was resist switch and not hysteresis as was the case with my previous version install.   Once I'm sure of consistent results I might do some comparisons with hysteresis again, but really I don't want to mess with whats working at this point.  total rms .3 acrc sec is pretty pleasing. Actually under .5 is adequate for me. 


On Fri, Jan 26, 2018 at 3:24 PM, chris1011@... [ap-gto] <ap-gto@...> wrote:
 

Here is a link with screen shots from the PHD lab program
I suspect the backlash comp is to blame. 

I'm not sure what error your screen shot is showing. It looks like normal guiding during relatively poor seeing. The RMS values of tracking are 0.3 to 0.4 arc seconds.

The only question I have is what is the guider rate set at? Is it set at 1x or .5x or .25x? If the guide rate is set to less than 1x, you will have sluggish response, especially in Dec.

Rolando


-----Original Message-----
From: dandadrumman dandadrumman@... [ap-gto] <ap-gto@...>
To: ap-gto <ap-gto@...>
Sent: Fri, Jan 26, 2018 1:30 pm
Subject: Re: [ap-gto] Help with guiding the Mach1GTO




Here is a link with screen shots from the PHD lab program
I suspect the backlash comp is to blame. 




On Friday, January 26, 2018, 1:37:58 PM EST, Bill Long bill@... [ap-gto] <ap-gto@...> wrote:


 
The method Roland mentions here is good. 

Roland, does it matter if folks are using Resist Switch vs Hysteresis?  



From: ap-gto@... gto@...> on behalf of Dan Pelzel dandadrumman@yahoo...com [ap-gto] gto@...>

Sent: Friday, January 26, 2018 10:07 AM
To: ap-gto@...
Subject: Re: [ap-gto] Help with guiding the Mach1GTO
 
 
Great advice. Thank you very much! That sounds like exactly what was happening. 
 
When I get home I’ll upload a screen shot. 

If I can bother another quick question, what are the thoughts of PHDs predictive PEC vs more traditional settings? Specifically if you have PEC enabled on the mount. Would they work together in harmony or fight each other? 


Dan Pelzel


On Jan 26, 2018, at 11:45 AM, chris1011@... [ap-gto] <ap-gto@...> wrote:

 
First of all, no one is going to wade thru a lot of log files. It would be easier to just look at screen shots of a guider graph to see what is happening.

Second, PHD has a lot of features to help mounts that have a lot of backlash, but in the case of the Mach1, you will have to turn off any and all backlash settings. Because if you don't, I guarantee you will get oscillations on the Dec axis. It will bobble back and forth and never settle down.

Start with a real good calibration run. Make sure that you follow the PHD instructions to the letter when calibrating. Next, turn aggressiveness down all the way and slowly bring it up and watch your guider graph. Somewhere between 50% and 70% aggressiveness the guiding in Dec should settle down and become smooth and accurate. Do the same on RA.

Rolando



-----Original Message-----
From: dandadrumman@... [ap-gto] <ap-gto@...>
To: ap-gto <ap-gto@yahoogroups...com>
Sent: Fri, Jan 26, 2018 9:55 am
Subject: [ap-gto] Help with guiding the Mach1GTO



So I have a used (GTOCP4 w/ auto adjusting gearbox) 
I have had it out now 4 or 5 nights and it's worked really well, but I am getting this issue in Dec. It seems like it's just bouncing back and forth. I was seeing big corrections alternating between N and S. At first I thought it was just the area of the sky, but it happened a few times in different parts of the sky. I know normally you want to balance a little camera heavy. I always find the balance shifts a lot depending on where the scope is pointing. So I balance it essentially perfectly with the counterweight down and the OTA pointing East/West. 
Here is a link to the PHD
 Log: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1iMfLocP9H5yK8cwiW-P6pmAKcI9tieKz/view?usp=sharing

< /p>
I would be grateful for any insight anyone could give. I have heard people say you should be well balanced no matter where the scope is pointing, but I have never found a way to do that. Should I just go a bit more camera heavy? I used the guiding assistant in PHD to set the backlash, someone mentioned that it might be wise to turn off backlash comp in PHD. 
This is using an 8in RC w/ the ASI1600 camera package w/ an added counterweight upfront since the RC is already backend heavy, especially with the MoonLite and camera. 

Thanks in advance for any advice. 
 










Re: Help with guiding the Mach1GTO

Worsel
 

Rolando

Thanks for sharing!

Was this PHD or PHD2?

Bryan


---In ap-gto@..., <chris1011@...> wrote :

Howdy,

Howard and I had a chance to log in to a customer's Mach1 mount last night to help him with some guiding issues using PHD. He had sent his calibration graph and it looked quite good, but he was having some problems guiding. After doing some mechanical tests we set up parameters in PHD to get the mount to track and respond accurately. Since PHD is somewhat different from MaximDL, which I use, we had to approach the settings a bit differently.

The first step is to do a quick 2 - 3 minute Unguided run using 1 second guide exposures, and look at the guider graph to see what the maximum excursions are in Declination. The guide star will bounce around a certain amount and this peak error will be the seeing that you cannot guide out with normal guide software. This P-V value, which in our case was between +-0.5 and +-0.8 arc seconds is what I call the Guide Star "Bobble" limit. Trying to correct for that with guide moves to the mount is impossible (only a fast acting AO system can chase that seeing error).

So, knowing that the minimum seeing error is +-0.8 arc seconds, you will want to set the initial Min Move setting in PHD to be approximately this value as a starting value. We set the Min Move to 0.8 arc sec, the guide rate at 1x and the aggressiveness to 100%.  This means that no correction pulses are sent to the mount while the guide star is bobbling within that envelope, but once it exceeds even slightly, the mount gets a full correction command (-0.8 arc sec) to bring it back toward the zero position. We turned guiding on and the result was that the mount responded quickly whenever the error exceeded the bobble limits and overall guiding was tight, accurate and almost the same RMS value, ~0.35 arc sec, for both axes. An exposure with the main camera showed tight round stars.

So, as a starting point:
Determine the amount of guide star bobble above and below the axis
Set the Min Move to that value
Set Guide rate to 1x sidereal
Set the guide star exposure rate to 1 second
Set Aggressiveness to 100%
Begin guiding and note the RMS value for both axes.

You can then change any of the parameters to see if you can tune the RMS to a lower value. We tried longer guide star exposures, but found that the response to tracking errors became more and more sluggish and less accurate. So for these seeing conditions a faster guide rate of 1 per second resulted in the lowest RMS error on both axes. In pristine seeing it might allow longer guide exposures, at least that is what we found using PHD Guiding.

Rolando



Re: Help with guiding the Mach1GTO

Roland Christen
 

Howdy,

Howard and I had a chance to log in to a customer's Mach1 mount last night to help him with some guiding issues using PHD. He had sent his calibration graph and it looked quite good, but he was having some problems guiding. After doing some mechanical tests we set up parameters in PHD to get the mount to track and respond accurately. Since PHD is somewhat different from MaximDL, which I use, we had to approach the settings a bit differently.

The first step is to do a quick 2 - 3 minute Unguided run using 1 second guide exposures, and look at the guider graph to see what the maximum excursions are in Declination. The guide star will bounce around a certain amount and this peak error will be the seeing that you cannot guide out with normal guide software. This P-V value, which in our case was between +-0.5 and +-0.8 arc seconds is what I call the Guide Star "Bobble" limit. Trying to correct for that with guide moves to the mount is impossible (only a fast acting AO system can chase that seeing error).

So, knowing that the minimum seeing error is +-0.8 arc seconds, you will want to set the initial Min Move setting in PHD to be approximately this value as a starting value. We set the Min Move to 0.8 arc sec, the guide rate at 1x and the aggressiveness to 100%.  This means that no correction pulses are sent to the mount while the guide star is bobbling within that envelope, but once it exceeds even slightly, the mount gets a full correction command (-0.8 arc sec) to bring it back toward the zero position. We turned guiding on and the result was that the mount responded quickly whenever the error exceeded the bobble limits and overall guiding was tight, accurate and almost the same RMS value, ~0.35 arc sec, for both axes. An exposure with the main camera showed tight round stars.

So, as a starting point:
Determine the amount of guide star bobble above and below the axis
Set the Min Move to that value
Set Guide rate to 1x sidereal
Set the guide star exposure rate to 1 second
Set Aggressiveness to 100%
Begin guiding and note the RMS value for both axes.

You can then change any of the parameters to see if you can tune the RMS to a lower value. We tried longer guide star exposures, but found that the response to tracking errors became more and more sluggish and less accurate. So for these seeing conditions a faster guide rate of 1 per second resulted in the lowest RMS error on both axes. In pristine seeing it might allow longer guide exposures, at least that is what we found using PHD Guiding.

Rolando






-----Original Message-----
From: Ron Kramer ronkramer1957@... [ap-gto]
To: ap-gto
Sent: Wed, Jan 31, 2018 8:25 am
Subject: Re: [ap-gto] Help with guiding the Mach1GTO



I had those long alternating pulses - no backlash eliminated them.  Do not bother with backlash test in guiding assistant. I kinda don't have much faith in any of that assistance with this mount.  
Mine just started withing great with a clean PHD install.  ODDLY - the default for both was resist switch and not hysteresis as was the case with my previous version install.   Once I'm sure of consistent results I might do some comparisons with hysteresis again, but really I don't want to mess with whats working at this point.  total rms .3 acrc sec is pretty pleasing. Actually under .5 is adequate for me. 


On Fri, Jan 26, 2018 at 3:24 PM, chris1011@... [ap-gto] <ap-gto@...> wrote:
 

Here is a link with screen shots from the PHD lab program
I suspect the backlash comp is to blame. 

I'm not sure what error your screen shot is showing. It looks like normal guiding during relatively poor seeing. The RMS values of tracking are 0.3 to 0.4 arc seconds.

The only question I have is what is the guider rate set at? Is it set at 1x or .5x or .25x? If the guide rate is set to less than 1x, you will have sluggish response, especially in Dec.

Rolando


-----Original Message-----
From: dandadrumman dandadrumman@... [ap-gto] <ap-gto@...>
To: ap-gto <ap-gto@...>
Sent: Fri, Jan 26, 2018 1:30 pm
Subject: Re: [ap-gto] Help with guiding the Mach1GTO




Here is a link with screen shots from the PHD lab program
I suspect the backlash comp is to blame. 




On Friday, January 26, 2018, 1:37:58 PM EST, Bill Long bill@... [ap-gto] gto@...> wrote:


 
The method Roland mentions here is good. 

Roland, does it matter if folks are using Resist Switch vs Hysteresis?  



From: ap-gto@... gto@...> on behalf of Dan Pelzel dandadrumman@yahoo...com [ap-gto] gto@...>

Sent: Friday, January 26, 2018 10:07 AM
To: ap-gto@...
Subject: Re: [ap-gto] Help with guiding the Mach1GTO
 
 
Great advice. Thank you very much! That sounds like exactly what was happening. 
 
When I get home I’ll upload a screen shot. 

If I can bother another quick question, what are the thoughts of PHDs predictive PEC vs more traditional settings? Specifically if you have PEC enabled on the mount. Would they work together in harmony or fight each other? 


Dan Pelzel


On Jan 26, 2018, at 11:45 AM, chris1011@... [ap-gto] <ap-gto@...> wrote:

 
First of all, no one is going to wade thru a lot of log files. It would be easier to just look at screen shots of a guider graph to see what is happening.

Second, PHD has a lot of features to help mounts that have a lot of backlash, but in the case of the Mach1, you will have to turn off any and all backlash settings. Because if you don't, I guarantee you will get oscillations on the Dec axis. It will bobble back and forth and never settle down.

Start with a real good calibration run. Make sure that you follow the PHD instructions to the letter when calibrating. Next, turn aggressiveness down all the way and slowly bring it up and watch your guider graph. Somewhere between 50% and 70% aggressiveness the guiding in Dec should settle down and become smooth and accurate. Do the same on RA.

Rolando



-----Original Message-----
From: dandadrumman@... [ap-gto] <ap-gto@...>
To: ap-gto <ap-gto@yahoogroups...com>
Sent: Fri, Jan 26, 2018 9:55 am
Subject: [ap-gto] Help with guiding the Mach1GTO



So I have a used (GTOCP4 w/ auto adjusting gearbox) 
I have had it out now 4 or 5 nights and it's worked really well, but I am getting this issue in Dec. It seems like it's just bouncing back and forth. I was seeing big corrections alternating between N and S. At first I thought it was just the area of the sky, but it happened a few times in different parts of the sky. I know normally you want to balance a little camera heavy. I always find the balance shifts a lot depending on where the scope is pointing. So I balance it essentially perfectly with the counterweight down and the OTA pointing East/West. 
Here is a link to the PHD
 Log: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1iMfLocP9H5yK8cwiW-P6pmAKcI9tieKz/view?usp=sharing

< /p>
I would be grateful for any insight anyone could give. I have heard people say you should be well balanced no matter where the scope is pointing, but I have never found a way to do that. Should I just go a bit more camera heavy? I used the guiding assistant in PHD to set the backlash, someone mentioned that it might be wise to turn off backlash comp in PHD. 
This is using an 8in RC w/ the ASI1600 camera package w/ an added counterweight upfront since the RC is already backend heavy, especially with the MoonLite and camera. 

Thanks in advance for any advice. 
 








Re: Last Step after replacing L chip to V chip

Michael Turner
 


At 08:25 AM 1/31/2018, you wrote:
 

Hi Dave,

I bought it from Amazon but unfortunately it's no longer available. The shortest I've found so far is 3 ft like these:

https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-Chipset-CableCreation-Converter-Windows/dp/B0758B6MK6/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1517411868&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=ftdi+usb+to+serial&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Tera-Grand-Premium-Adapter-Supports/dp/B01MCZM6OM/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1517411868&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=ftdi%2Busb%2Bto%2Bserial&th=1

or an alternative like this one:

https://www.amazon.com/Tera-Grand-Premium-Adapter-Supports/dp/B00BUZ0K68/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1517411868&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=ftdi+usb+to+serial&psc=1

You can get the shortest USB extension cable and connect to this adapter and CPX box.

If you want one foot like mine, try to do a search at Amazon.

Peter


---In ap-gto@..., wrote :

Peter,

Where did you get that short serial to USB cable for your focus controller?

Dave

On Mon, Jan 29, 2018 at 11:24 AM, pnagy@... [ap-gto] <ap-gto@... > wrote:
 

George,

If Mike's goal is to connect USB-to-Serial adapter directly to serial port of CPX box, he will have difficulty doing that with your adapter, that's all. I was trying to make sure Mike is aware of this. I was not putting off any brands including yours. He will need to get a 9-pin serial cable extension to connect in between your adapter and CPX box for this to work. I know new A-P mounts come with 15 feet serial cable extension but it may be too long for him as well for me. Pretty much most, if not all, FTDI chipped USB-to-Serial adapters use the same exact drivers directly from FTDI.

Here is how I connect my USB-to-Serial adapter to CP3 box at:

https://peternagy.smugmug.com/ Telescopes/Current-Equipment/ i-tvFFhk3/A

Click on "right arrow" at right side to see more pictures. This one uses one foot long cable and connects directly to CP3 box and USB hub. Yes, this adapter contains FTDI chip.

Peter

---In ap-gto@..., wrote :

Peter,

 

One of the big advantages of using the USB to serial adapter that we sell is that it was designed by the same people who write the FTDI software.  It was originally designed by them so that they could develop their software specifically for it…to use it in their laboratory aand for testing.  Why put off brand parts on a Rolls Royce?

 

Regards,

 

George

 

George Whitney

Astro-Physics, Inc.

Phone:  815-282-1513

Email:  george@...

 

From: ap-gto@... [ mailto:ap-gto@... ]
Sent: Sunday, January 28, 2018 4:47 PM
To: ap-gto@...
Subject: RE: [ap-gto] Last Step after replacing L chip to V chip

 

 

I think Mike wants to connect the USB-to-Serial adapter directly to the serial port of CPX box. The problem with Astro-Physics USB-to-Serial adapter is it will not be able to connect directly to the serial port of CPX box because both connectors in adapter and serial port of CPX use same gender (female hex screws). What Mike is looking for is male thumbscrews on USB-to-Serial adapter to not only connect but lock to serial port of CPX box. Here are the samples USB-to-Serial adapters that will connect to serial port of CPX box:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/ product/B0075SGLRQ/ref=oh_aui_ detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8& psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/ Sabrent-Serial-Adapter- Chipset-CB-FTDI/dp/B006AA04K0/ ref=sr_1_14?s=electronics&ie= UTF8&qid=1517066936&sr=1-14& keywords=ftdi+usb+to+serial

https://www.amazon.com/Serial- Adapter-Chipset-Supports- Windows/dp/B017D51ZRQ/ref=sr_ 1_22?s=electronics&ie=UTF8& qid=1517066936&sr=1-22& keywords=ftdi+usb+to+serial

All of the above samples use FTDI chip sets.

Peter



---In ap-gto@..., <george@...> wrote :

I strong recommend our FTDI adapter that comes right from FTDI:

http://www.astro-physics.com/ products/accessories/software/ Serial_USB/serialusb.htm# usb1pftdi

 

Regards,

 

George

 

George Whitney

Astro-Physics, Inc.

Phone:  815-282-1513

Email:  george@...

 

From: ap-gto@... [ mailto:ap-gto@... ]
Sent: Saturday, January 27, 2018 7:29 AM
To: ap-gto@...
Subject: [ap-gto] Last Step after replacing L chip to V chip

 

 

 Need to update my Keypad from 4.12 to 4.19, I have a straight thru serial cable but my computer has no serial ports. I have read that I need a FTD1 chip USB to serial cable. The CP3 GTO control panel has female RS232. I can't find a USB cable of this sort that will have a male RS232. I have tried looking online and Astro-Physics website, all I find are adapters that have to have a  female end. Anyone have a link to where I can find one. Thanks, Mike




Is Yahoo Groups moderating every messages?

topboxman
 

Lately, it seems to take 2 days for my posts to get through. Is Yahoo Groups moderating every messages sent?

Peter



Re: Last Step after replacing L chip to V chip

topboxman
 

Dave,

I didn't realized you were asking about the focus controller. It was early this morning and have not yet drank coffee. Anyway, the cable that came with the focus controller was pretty long but usable. Eventually I want a shorter cable and could not find it anywhere so I cut the cable and crimp the connector to the open end of the cable.

Peter


---In ap-gto@..., <dsidote@...> wrote :

Peter,

Where did you get that short serial to USB cable for your focus controller?

Dave

On Mon, Jan 29, 2018 at 11:24 AM, pnagy@... [ap-gto] <ap-gto@...> wrote:
 

George,

If Mike's goal is to connect USB-to-Serial adapter directly to serial port of CPX box, he will have difficulty doing that with your adapter, that's all. I was trying to make sure Mike is aware of this. I was not putting off any brands including yours. He will need to get a 9-pin serial cable extension to connect in between your adapter and CPX box for this to work. I know new A-P mounts come with 15 feet serial cable extension but it may be too long for him as well for me. Pretty much most, if not all, FTDI chipped USB-to-Serial adapters use the same exact drivers directly from FTDI.

Here is how I connect my USB-to-Serial adapter to CP3 box at:

https://peternagy.smugmug.com/ Telescopes/Current-Equipment/ i-tvFFhk3/A

Click on "right arrow" at right side to see more pictures. This one uses one foot long cable and connects directly to CP3 box and USB hub. Yes, this adapter contains FTDI chip.

Peter


---In ap-gto@..., <george@...> wrote :

Peter,

 

One of the big advantages of using the USB to serial adapter that we sell is that it was designed by the same people who write the FTDI software.  It was originally designed by them so that they could develop their software specifically for it…to use it in their laboratory and for testing.  Why put off brand parts on a Rolls Royce?

 

Regards,

 

George

 

George Whitney

Astro-Physics, Inc.

Phone:  815-282-1513

Email:  george@...

 

From: ap-gto@... [mailto:ap-gto@... ]
Sent: Sunday, January 28, 2018 4:47 PM
To: ap-gto@...
Subject: RE: [ap-gto] Last Step after replacing L chip to V chip

 

 

I think Mike wants to connect the USB-to-Serial adapter directly to the serial port of CPX box. The problem with Astro-Physics USB-to-Serial adapter is it will not be able to connect directly to the serial port of CPX box because both connectors in adapter and serial port of CPX use same gender (female hex screws). What Mike is looking for is male thumbscrews on USB-to-Serial adapter to not only connect but lock to serial port of CPX box. Here are the samples USB-to-Serial adapters that will connect to serial port of CPX box:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/ product/B0075SGLRQ/ref=oh_aui_ detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8& psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/ Sabrent-Serial-Adapter- Chipset-CB-FTDI/dp/B006AA04K0/ ref=sr_1_14?s=electronics&ie= UTF8&qid=1517066936&sr=1-14& keywords=ftdi+usb+to+serial

https://www.amazon.com/Serial- Adapter-Chipset-Supports- Windows/dp/B017D51ZRQ/ref=sr_ 1_22?s=electronics&ie=UTF8& qid=1517066936&sr=1-22& keywords=ftdi+usb+to+serial

All of the above samples use FTDI chip sets.

Peter



---In ap-gto@..., <george@...> wrote :

I strong recommend our FTDI adapter that comes right from FTDI:

http://www.astro-physics.com/ products/accessories/software/ Serial_USB/serialusb.htm# usb1pftdi

 

Regards,

 

George

 

George Whitney

Astro-Physics, Inc.

Phone:  815-282-1513

Email:  george@...

 

From: ap-gto@... [mailto:ap-gto@... ]
Sent: Saturday, January 27, 2018 7:29 AM
To: ap-gto@...
Subject: [ap-gto] Last Step after replacing L chip to V chip

 

 

 Need to update my Keypad from 4.12 to 4.19, I have a straight thru serial cable but my computer has no serial ports. I have read that I need a FTD1 chip USB to serial cable. The CP3 GTO control panel has female RS232. I can't find a USB cable of this sort that will have a male RS232. I have tried looking online and Astro-Physics website, all I find are adapters that have to have a  female end. Anyone have a link to where I can find one. Thanks, Mike



Re: Last Step after replacing L chip to V chip

topboxman
 

Hi Rolando,

You are correct. My A-P1100 did came with 15 feet serial extension cable. I know some people bought used A-P mounts but were missing this cable. Previous owners must have lost it, forgot about it or decided to keep it. This is of course not your fault.

Peter


---In ap-gto@..., <chris1011@...> wrote :


if a customer buys your awesome and high quality USB-to-Serial adapter and wants to connect it directly to serial port of CPX box, the customer will be in great disappointment because it will not connect due to mechanical problems.
The customer always gets a serial cable that connects directly to the mount, so he does not have to wait a week to make things work. We send out a serial cable with every mount.

If it happens that the customer wants a different length cable, then he can indeed get something different for his particular need.

Rolando


-----Original Message-----
From: pnagy@... [ap-gto] <ap-gto@...>
To: ap-gto <ap-gto@...>
Sent: Mon, Jan 29, 2018 12:34 pm
Subject: RE: [ap-gto] Last Step after replacing L chip to V chip



George,

It's about the convenience for your customers. For example, if a customer buys your awesome and high quality USB-to-Serial adapter and wants to connect it directly to serial port of CPX box, the customer will be in great disappointment because it will not connect due to mechanical problems. The customer will have to wait maybe at least a week to find and order the proper serial cable, extension or gender changer for this to work.

Maybe update your advertisement for your USB-to-Serial FTDI adapter to say that additional cables may be required to connect to serial port of CPX box. Or even better to include a one foot serial cable.

Peter


---In ap-gto@..., <george@...> wrote :

Joe,
 
You need to be able to reach the mount with the cable.   Alternatively, what I have done at times is to simply use a one foot serial cable.
 
Regards,
 
George
 
George Whitney
Astro-Physics, Inc.
Phone:  815-282-1513
Email:  george@...
 
From: ap-gto@... [mailto:ap-gto@...]
Sent: Monday, January 29, 2018 11:05 AM
To: ap-gto@...
Subject: Re: [ap-gto] Last Step after replacing L chip to V chip
 
 
George,
 
    I would suggest that AP package a proper, compatible,  “gender changer” with their FTDI serial/USB package.
 
    Someone will likely need it to match even a “spare test cable” into their CPx controller. Save everybody the hassle of sourcing this tiny inexpensive, (soon to be rare part), along with the shipping charges from an electronics store when ordering just one, and panic calls to AP.
 
    In fact, from your comment about FTDI ...needing one themselves ...  to do their software testing, FTDI should have done this for THEIR user shipments ... in the first place. Its not as though adding the few extra pennies of expense for it, would endanger FTDI’s competitive position – there aren’t any.
 
Joe Z.



Re: Last Step after replacing L chip to V chip

topboxman
 

Hi Dave,

I bought it from Amazon but unfortunately it's no longer available. The shortest I've found so far is 3 ft like these:

https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-Chipset-CableCreation-Converter-Windows/dp/B0758B6MK6/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1517411868&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=ftdi+usb+to+serial&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Tera-Grand-Premium-Adapter-Supports/dp/B01MCZM6OM/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1517411868&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=ftdi%2Busb%2Bto%2Bserial&th=1

or an alternative like this one:

https://www.amazon.com/Tera-Grand-Premium-Adapter-Supports/dp/B00BUZ0K68/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1517411868&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=ftdi+usb+to+serial&psc=1

You can get the shortest USB extension cable and connect to this adapter and CPX box.

If you want one foot like mine, try to do a search at Amazon.

Peter


---In ap-gto@..., <dsidote@...> wrote :

Peter,

Where did you get that short serial to USB cable for your focus controller?

Dave

On Mon, Jan 29, 2018 at 11:24 AM, pnagy@... [ap-gto] <ap-gto@...> wrote:
 

George,

If Mike's goal is to connect USB-to-Serial adapter directly to serial port of CPX box, he will have difficulty doing that with your adapter, that's all. I was trying to make sure Mike is aware of this. I was not putting off any brands including yours. He will need to get a 9-pin serial cable extension to connect in between your adapter and CPX box for this to work. I know new A-P mounts come with 15 feet serial cable extension but it may be too long for him as well for me. Pretty much most, if not all, FTDI chipped USB-to-Serial adapters use the same exact drivers directly from FTDI.

Here is how I connect my USB-to-Serial adapter to CP3 box at:

https://peternagy.smugmug.com/ Telescopes/Current-Equipment/ i-tvFFhk3/A

Click on "right arrow" at right side to see more pictures. This one uses one foot long cable and connects directly to CP3 box and USB hub. Yes, this adapter contains FTDI chip.

Peter


---In ap-gto@..., <george@...> wrote :

Peter,

 

One of the big advantages of using the USB to serial adapter that we sell is that it was designed by the same people who write the FTDI software.  It was originally designed by them so that they could develop their software specifically for it…to use it in their laboratory and for testing.  Why put off brand parts on a Rolls Royce?

 

Regards,

 

George

 

George Whitney

Astro-Physics, Inc.

Phone:  815-282-1513

Email:  george@...

 

From: ap-gto@... [mailto:ap-gto@... ]
Sent: Sunday, January 28, 2018 4:47 PM
To: ap-gto@...
Subject: RE: [ap-gto] Last Step after replacing L chip to V chip

 

 

I think Mike wants to connect the USB-to-Serial adapter directly to the serial port of CPX box. The problem with Astro-Physics USB-to-Serial adapter is it will not be able to connect directly to the serial port of CPX box because both connectors in adapter and serial port of CPX use same gender (female hex screws). What Mike is looking for is male thumbscrews on USB-to-Serial adapter to not only connect but lock to serial port of CPX box. Here are the samples USB-to-Serial adapters that will connect to serial port of CPX box:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/ product/B0075SGLRQ/ref=oh_aui_ detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8& psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/ Sabrent-Serial-Adapter- Chipset-CB-FTDI/dp/B006AA04K0/ ref=sr_1_14?s=electronics&ie= UTF8&qid=1517066936&sr=1-14& keywords=ftdi+usb+to+serial

https://www.amazon.com/Serial- Adapter-Chipset-Supports- Windows/dp/B017D51ZRQ/ref=sr_ 1_22?s=electronics&ie=UTF8& qid=1517066936&sr=1-22& keywords=ftdi+usb+to+serial

All of the above samples use FTDI chip sets.

Peter



---In ap-gto@..., <george@...> wrote :

I strong recommend our FTDI adapter that comes right from FTDI:

http://www.astro-physics.com/ products/accessories/software/ Serial_USB/serialusb.htm# usb1pftdi

 

Regards,

 

George

 

George Whitney

Astro-Physics, Inc.

Phone:  815-282-1513

Email:  george@...

 

From: ap-gto@... [mailto:ap-gto@... ]
Sent: Saturday, January 27, 2018 7:29 AM
To: ap-gto@...
Subject: [ap-gto] Last Step after replacing L chip to V chip

 

 

 Need to update my Keypad from 4.12 to 4.19, I have a straight thru serial cable but my computer has no serial ports. I have read that I need a FTD1 chip USB to serial cable. The CP3 GTO control panel has female RS232. I can't find a USB cable of this sort that will have a male RS232. I have tried looking online and Astro-Physics website, all I find are adapters that have to have a  female end. Anyone have a link to where I can find one. Thanks, Mike



Re: Older 1100GTO gearbox adjustment

observe_m13
 

Thanks Peter! Now that I know where it is, I don't know how I managed to miss finding it. I was looking around the Tech Page. A case of looking but not seeing.


---In ap-gto@..., <pnagy@...> wrote :

I also have original and first run A-P1100GTO. You adjusted the wrong screws, those screws underneath the panhead screws are for spring loaded tension adjustment. I use the following instructions for gear mesh adjustment:

http://www.astro-physics.com/tech_support/mounts/Gear%20Mesh%201600,%201100,%20Mach1%20-%202014-10-24.pdf

It has very clear pictures.

Peter


---In ap-gto@..., <JunkMailGoesHere@...> wrote :

I have an original 1100GTO mount that has the gearboxes with the small screws covering holes in the top. I went to re-mesh my gearbox and thought that these screws were covering the ones to be loosened off and then tightened back up. adjusted them looser but they already seemed loose so I tightened them up very lightly but could not get any better gear mesh. I loosened them off to approximately where they were originally and came inside to check out the online resources in the Tech pages but they were no help as they reference the latest gearboxes with the lever adjusting system. So, what did I actually change, how do I returnthem to their proper position, and where is the info for the older mounts on how to adjust the gearbox to remove the backlash?



Re: Older 1100GTO gearbox adjustment

observe_m13
 

OK, crystal clear now. Between Peter's link to the in-depth instructions and your response, I can put things back to where they should be. First time I have had to adjust the gear mesh since I bought this mount. Great piece of machinery!

Thanks, Rick.


---In ap-gto@..., <chris1011@...> wrote :


I went to re-mesh my gearbox and thought that these screws were covering the ones to be loosened off and then tightened back up.
These screws were not meant to be adjusted. They simply cover up the screws that hold the springs in place. Basically you did nothing. You can put the spring pressure back to where it was by turning those screws (the ones underneath the cover screws) until they are tight, then back them both off one turn. Then replace the cover screws and don't remove them again.

To adjust the worm mesh, you need to simply loosen two screws on the back of the motor gearbox (gearbox lockdown screws). This will allow the springs to move the gearbox down until the worm is in full mesh. You might want to move the gearbox up and down to feel the spring pressure. Once you have the worm in mesh, first tighten the left screw gently then the right screw gently. Then fully tighten them both.

For more information about gearbox mesh on the older mounts, follow this PDF on our website: http://www.astro-physics.com/tech_support/mounts/Gear%20Mesh%201600,%201100,%20Mach1%20-%202014-10-24.pdf

Rolando


-----Original Message-----
From: JunkMailGoesHere@... [ap-gto] <ap-gto@...>
To: ap-gto <ap-gto@...>
Sent: Mon, Jan 29, 2018 5:07 pm
Subject: [ap-gto] Older 1100GTO gearbox adjustment



I have an original 1100GTO mount that has the gearboxes with the small screws covering holes in the top. I went to re-mesh my gearbox and thought that these screws were covering the ones to be loosened off and then tightened back up. adjusted them looser but they already seemed loose so I tightened them up very lightly but could not get any better gear mesh. I loosened them off to approximately where they were originally and came inside to check out the online resources in the Tech pages but they were no help as they reference the latest gearboxes with the lever adjusting system. So, what did I actually change, how do I returnthem to their proper position, and where is the info for the older mounts on how to adjust the gearbox to remove the backlash?




Re: Last Step after replacing L chip to V chip

MCDERMOTT MICHAEL <wildwood7711@...>
 

My keypad is now updated to 4.19.3. I thank you all tremendously for your help! - Mike


On Monday, January 29, 2018 4:48 PM, "pnagy@... [ap-gto]" wrote:


 
I believe Mike is talking about what George linked:

http://www.astro-physics.com/index.htm?products/accessories/software/Serial_USB/serialusb

I think Mike mis-spoke "cable" when he meant USB-to-Serial adapter.

Peter


---In ap-gto@..., wrote :


You are correct the Astro-Physics cable can't fasten to the cp3 rs232.
I just looked at the AP cable and it plugs directly into the CP3 box RS232 connector. So, what are you talking about? Certainly not the AP cable that we send with every mount.

Roland Christen
Astro-Physics Inc.


-----Original Message-----
From: MCDERMOTT MICHAEL wildwood7711@... [ap-gto]
To: ap-gto
Sent: Mon, Jan 29, 2018 1:27 pm
Subject: Re: [ap-gto] Last Step after replacing L chip to V chip



Thanks all that responded! Peter thanks for the information. You are correct the Astro-Physics cable can't fasten to the cp3 rs232. The nuts  are on both their (AP) cable and the cp3 box,so it won't work without an adapter. I need screws (male) to fasten to the cp3 rs232 (female). - Mike


On Monday, January 29, 2018 1:08 PM, "pnagy@... [ap-gto]" gto@...> wrote:


 
Ignore my redundant post. I posted this a while ago and it took forever for Yahoo to send it through so I resent an identical message. Sorry about that.

Peter


---In ap-gto@..., wrote :

If Mike's goal is to connect USB-to-Serial adapter directly to serial port of CPX box, he will have difficulty doing that with your adapter, that's all. I was trying to make sure Mike is aware of this. I was not putting off any brands including yours. He will need to get a 9-pin serial cable extension for this to work. I know new A-P mounts come with 15 feet serial cable extension but it may be too long for him as well for me.

Here is how I connect my USB-to-Serial adapter to CP3 box at:

https://peternagy.smugmug.com/Telescopes/Current-Equipment/i-tvFFhk3/A

Click on "right arrow" at right side to see more pictures. This one uses one foot long cable and connects directly to CP3 box and USB hub. Yes, this adapter contains FTDI chip.

Peter



---In ap-gto@..., wrote :

Peter,
 
One of the big advantages of using the USB to serial adapter that we sell is that it was designed by the same people who write the FTDI software.  It was originally designed by them so that they could develop their software specifically for it…to use it in their laboratory and for testing.  Why put off brand parts on a Rolls Royce?
 
Regards,
 
George
 
George Whitney
Astro-Physics, Inc.
Phone:  815-282-1513
Email:  george@...
 
From: ap-gto@... [mailto:ap-gto@...]
Sent: Sunday, January 28, 2018 4:47 PM
To: ap-gto@...
Subject: RE: [ap-gto] Last Step after replacing L chip to V chip
 
 
I think Mike wants to connect the USB-to-Serial adapter directly to the serial port of CPX box. The problem with Astro-Physics USB-to-Serial adapter is it will not be able to connect directly to the serial port of CPX box because both connectors in adapter and serial port of CPX use same gender (female hex screws). What Mike is looking for is male thumbscrews on USB-to-Serial adapter to not only connect but lock to serial port of CPX box. Here are the samples USB-to-Serial adapters that will connect to serial port of CPX box:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0075SGLRQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Serial-Adapter-Chipset-CB-FTDI/dp/B006AA04K0/ref=sr_1_14?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1517066936&sr=1-14&keywords=ftdi+usb+to+serial

https://www.amazon.com/Serial-Adapter-Chipset-Supports-Windows/dp/B017D51ZRQ/ref=sr_1_22?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1517066936&sr=1-22&keywords=ftdi+usb+to+serial

All of the above samples use FTDI chip sets.

Peter


---In ap-gto@..., <george@...> wrote :
I strong recommend our FTDI adapter that comes right from FTDI:
 
Regards,
 
George
 
George Whitney
Astro-Physics, Inc.
Phone:  815-282-1513
Email:  george@...
 
From: ap-gto@... [mailto:ap-gto@...]
Sent: Saturday, January 27, 2018 7:29 AM
To: ap-gto@...
Subject: [ap-gto] Last Step after replacing L chip to V chip
 
 
 Need to update my Keypad from 4.12 to 4.19, I have a straight thru serial cable but my computer has no serial ports. I have read that I need a FTD1 chip USB to serial cable. The CP3 GTO control panel has female RS232. I can't find a USB cable of this sort that will have a male RS232. I have tried looking online and Astro-Physics website, all I find are adapters that have to have a  female end. Anyone have a link to where I can find one. Thanks, Mike






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