Date   

Re: Tracking ISS ?

Phillip Coker
 

Hi Dave,

Could you give more detail to us newbies to the AP1100CP4 on how to do this?

Phil

On Nov 23, 2017, at 05:52, DavFab@... [ap-gto] <ap-gto@...> wrote:

If your AP Mount has a CP4, you can go to the NASA Horizons website and generate an ephemeris to load into the CP4. The mount will track the ISS. It works well.


Dave Fabrizio


On Nov 23, 2017, at 1:31 AM, drgert1@... [ap-gto] <ap-gto@...> wrote:

 

Hi All,

Is there a software similar to 'optictracker' for the AP mounts?

http://www.optictracker.com/Home.html


Their idea is to track the ISS via a small wide field guider camera, while observing/imaging with the main OTA. Their website says they support Meade LX200 with AutoStar II. Would that work with the AP driver and/or ASCOM?


Thanks,
Gert


 




Re: Tracking ISS ?

David Fabrizio
 

If your AP Mount has a CP4, you can go to the NASA Horizons website and generate an ephemeris to load into the CP4. The mount will track the ISS. It works well.

Dave Fabrizio


On Nov 23, 2017, at 1:31 AM, drgert1@... [ap-gto] <ap-gto@...> wrote:

 

Hi All,

Is there a software similar to 'optictracker' for the AP mounts?

http://www.optictracker.com/Home.html


Their idea is to track the ISS via a small wide field guider camera, while observing/imaging with the main OTA. Their website says they support Meade LX200 with AutoStar II. Would that work with the AP driver and/or ASCOM?


Thanks,
Gert


 


Tracking ISS ?

drgert1
 

Hi All,

Is there a software similar to 'optictracker' for the AP mounts?

http://www.optictracker.com/Home.html


Their idea is to track the ISS via a small wide field guider camera, while observing/imaging with the main OTA. Their website says they support Meade LX200 with AutoStar II. Would that work with the AP driver and/or ASCOM?


Thanks,
Gert


 


Re: New lights from a New observatory

Jos� Joaqu�n P�rez Guy
 

Hello Didier, yes,  the french gang is the same neighborhood :) I will met them next march I guess.

Best regards,

2017-11-22 13:19 GMT-03:00 Didier REDIGER-LIZLOV rediger@... [ap-gto] <ap-gto@...>:

 


hello,
a great site I think the french team Ciel Austral Boreal with Laurent Bourgon si here too ;-).

nice pict !

clear skies

Didier


De : ap-gto@... <ap-gto@...> de la part de Marj marj@... [ap-gto] <ap-gto@...>
Envoyé : mercredi 22 novembre 2017 17:05
À : ap-gto@...
Objet : RE: [ap-gto] New lights from a New observatory
 
 

Hola Joaquin,

 

That is an awesome location! Who owns and manages the facility?

 

Your gallery is very nice, as well. I look forward to seeing more of your images.

 

Clear Skies,

 

Marj Christen

Astro-Physics, Inc

11250 Forest Hills Rd

Machesney Park, IL 61115

Phone: 815-282-1513

Fax: 815-282-9847

www.astro-physics.com

 

From: ap-gto@... [mailto:ap-gto@...]
Sent: Tuesday, November 21, 2017 10:07 PM
To: ap-ug@...; tekic545@... [ap-gto]
Subject: [ap-gto] New lights from a New observatory

 

 

Dear group, here I'm again with some new images from my new remote observatory.This will be my astroimaging home from now.

 

The site is located in Rio Hurtado, 1.600 masl. Seeing expected to be 1 arcsec and less.

 

 

So far, everything is working as expected with observation tasks programmed for each night.

 

My AP1100GTO working flawlessly wit the help of Roland, of course :)

 

Here you can see the instalation of the ror :

file:///D:/astro-austral/imagenes/galaxies/Dorado_Group/DSC_5148(1).JPG

And a drone overview of the hill :

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=shbwtlPIDI4

Regarding the new images obtained so far :

1) First Light and the classics :

  • Helix PN in Aquarius


http://www.astro-austral.cl/imagenes/nebulae/NGC7293/info.htm

  • Silver dollar galaxy in Sculptor :


http://www.astro-austral.cl/imagenes/galaxies/ngc253/info.htm

  • Running Man Nebula in Orion :


http://www.astro-austral.cl/imagenes/nebulae/NGC%201977/info.htm

  • Full resolution crop :


http://www.astro-austral.cl/imagenes/nebulae/NGC%201977/crop.jpg

2) Overlooked .

  • Dorado Group in Doradus :


http://www.astro-austral.cl/imagenes/galaxies/Dorado_Group/info.htm

  • MBM 47 in Aquarius

 

This is an interesting region of dust consisting of multiple interlocking ribbons of dust.

 http://www.astro-austral.cl/imagenes/nebulae/Dust%20in%20Aquarius/info.htm


I'm working in a 2x2 mosaic of this region, but this will take a little more time.

 

Hope you like it.





Re: New lights from a New observatory

Jos� Joaqu�n P�rez Guy
 

Hola Marj! Thanks for your compliments.

The top of the hill is owned half and half by a russian company called Chilescope.com and a local company (Obstech.net). Both has differents focus. Chilescope has the big domes with telescopes ranging from 0,5 m to 1,0 m of diameter. Those guys sell observing time online.

In the other hand, Obstech (where I am installed) offers hosting for your personal setup. You can put your equipment in an pre-constructed pier, or, as is my case, to build your own observatory. Internet access and weather control is included in the price that you pay.

Almost all the piers are currently in use or will be in the very nexts month.

Best regards,

2017-11-22 13:05 GMT-03:00 Marj marj@... [ap-gto] <ap-gto@...>:

 

Hola Joaquin,

 

That is an awesome location! Who owns and manages the facility?

 

Your gallery is very nice, as well. I look forward to seeing more of your images.

 

Clear Skies,

 

Marj Christen

Astro-Physics, Inc

11250 Forest Hills Rd

Machesney Park, IL 61115

Phone: 815-282-1513

Fax: 815-282-9847

www.astro-physics.com

 

From: ap-gto@... [mailto:ap-gto@...]
Sent: Tuesday, November 21, 2017 10:07 PM
To: ap-ug@...; tekic545@... [ap-gto]
Subject: [ap-gto] New lights from a New observatory

 

 

Dear group, here I'm again with some new images from my new remote observatory.This will be my astroimaging home from now.

 

The site is located in Rio Hurtado, 1.600 masl. Seeing expected to be 1 arcsec and less.

 

 

So far, everything is working as expected with observation tasks programmed for each night.

 

My AP1100GTO working flawlessly wit the help of Roland, of course :)

 

Here you can see the instalation of the ror :

file:///D:/astro-austral/imagenes/galaxies/Dorado_Group/DSC_5148(1).JPG

And a drone overview of the hill :

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=shbwtlPIDI4

Regarding the new images obtained so far :

1) First Light and the classics :

  • Helix PN in Aquarius


http://www.astro-austral.cl/imagenes/nebulae/NGC7293/info.htm

  • Silver dollar galaxy in Sculptor :


http://www.astro-austral.cl/imagenes/galaxies/ngc253/info.htm

  • Running Man Nebula in Orion :


http://www.astro-austral.cl/imagenes/nebulae/NGC%201977/info.htm

  • Full resolution crop :


http://www.astro-austral.cl/imagenes/nebulae/NGC%201977/crop.jpg

2) Overlooked .

  • Dorado Group in Doradus :


http://www.astro-austral.cl/imagenes/galaxies/Dorado_Group/info.htm

  • MBM 47 in Aquarius

 

This is an interesting region of dust consisting of multiple interlocking ribbons of dust.

 http://www.astro-austral.cl/imagenes/nebulae/Dust%20in%20Aquarius/info.htm


I'm working in a 2x2 mosaic of this region, but this will take a little more time.

 

Hope you like it.





Re: New lights from a New observatory

REDIGER-LIZLOV Didier
 


hello,
a great site I think the french team Ciel Austral Boreal with Laurent Bourgon si here too ;-).

nice pict !

clear skies

Didier


De : ap-gto@... de la part de Marj marj@... [ap-gto]
Envoyé : mercredi 22 novembre 2017 17:05
À : ap-gto@...
Objet : RE: [ap-gto] New lights from a New observatory
 
 

Hola Joaquin,

 

That is an awesome location! Who owns and manages the facility?

 

Your gallery is very nice, as well. I look forward to seeing more of your images.

 

Clear Skies,

 

Marj Christen

Astro-Physics, Inc

11250 Forest Hills Rd

Machesney Park, IL 61115

Phone: 815-282-1513

Fax: 815-282-9847

www.astro-physics.com

 

From: ap-gto@... [mailto:ap-gto@...]
Sent: Tuesday, November 21, 2017 10:07 PM
To: ap-ug@...; tekic545@... [ap-gto]
Subject: [ap-gto] New lights from a New observatory

 

 

Dear group, here I'm again with some new images from my new remote observatory.This will be my astroimaging home from now.

 

The site is located in Rio Hurtado, 1.600 masl. Seeing expected to be 1 arcsec and less.

 

 

So far, everything is working as expected with observation tasks programmed for each night.

 

My AP1100GTO working flawlessly wit the help of Roland, of course :)

 

Here you can see the instalation of the ror :

file:///D:/astro-austral/imagenes/galaxies/Dorado_Group/DSC_5148(1).JPG

And a drone overview of the hill :

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=shbwtlPIDI4

Regarding the new images obtained so far :

1) First Light and the classics :

  • Helix PN in Aquarius


http://www.astro-austral.cl/imagenes/nebulae/NGC7293/info.htm

  • Silver dollar galaxy in Sculptor :


http://www.astro-austral.cl/imagenes/galaxies/ngc253/info.htm

  • Running Man Nebula in Orion :


http://www.astro-austral.cl/imagenes/nebulae/NGC%201977/info.htm

  • Full resolution crop :


http://www.astro-austral.cl/imagenes/nebulae/NGC%201977/crop.jpg

2) Overlooked .

  • Dorado Group in Doradus :


http://www.astro-austral.cl/imagenes/galaxies/Dorado_Group/info.htm

  • MBM 47 in Aquarius

 

This is an interesting region of dust consisting of multiple interlocking ribbons of dust.

 http://www.astro-austral.cl/imagenes/nebulae/Dust%20in%20Aquarius/info.htm


I'm working in a 2x2 mosaic of this region, but this will take a little more time.

 

Hope you like it.


Re: New lights from a New observatory

 

Hola Joaquin,

 

That is an awesome location! Who owns and manages the facility?

 

Your gallery is very nice, as well. I look forward to seeing more of your images.

 

Clear Skies,

 

Marj Christen

Astro-Physics, Inc

11250 Forest Hills Rd

Machesney Park, IL 61115

Phone: 815-282-1513

Fax: 815-282-9847

www.astro-physics.com

 

From: ap-gto@... [mailto:ap-gto@...]
Sent: Tuesday, November 21, 2017 10:07 PM
To: ap-ug@...; tekic545@... [ap-gto]
Subject: [ap-gto] New lights from a New observatory

 

 

Dear group, here I'm again with some new images from my new remote observatory.This will be my astroimaging home from now.

 

The site is located in Rio Hurtado, 1.600 masl. Seeing expected to be 1 arcsec and less.

 

 

So far, everything is working as expected with observation tasks programmed for each night.

 

My AP1100GTO working flawlessly wit the help of Roland, of course :)

 

Here you can see the instalation of the ror :

file:///D:/astro-austral/imagenes/galaxies/Dorado_Group/DSC_5148(1).JPG

And a drone overview of the hill :

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=shbwtlPIDI4

Regarding the new images obtained so far :

1) First Light and the classics :

  • Helix PN in Aquarius


http://www.astro-austral.cl/imagenes/nebulae/NGC7293/info.htm

  • Silver dollar galaxy in Sculptor :


http://www.astro-austral.cl/imagenes/galaxies/ngc253/info.htm

  • Running Man Nebula in Orion :


http://www.astro-austral.cl/imagenes/nebulae/NGC%201977/info.htm

  • Full resolution crop :


http://www.astro-austral.cl/imagenes/nebulae/NGC%201977/crop.jpg

2) Overlooked .

  • Dorado Group in Doradus :


http://www.astro-austral.cl/imagenes/galaxies/Dorado_Group/info.htm

  • MBM 47 in Aquarius

 

This is an interesting region of dust consisting of multiple interlocking ribbons of dust.

 http://www.astro-austral.cl/imagenes/nebulae/Dust%20in%20Aquarius/info.htm


I'm working in a 2x2 mosaic of this region, but this will take a little more time.

 

Hope you like it.


Re: Question for Dave regarding DROK

Woody Schlom <woody@...>
 

Ya know, I think this thread has just about worn out and snapped.  If you haven’t learned what you want or need to know about these things by now, you probably never will.  One poster has been using more than one of these for years in his robotic observatory and reports that they work as advertised and needed, and last under all kinds of conditions.  If I recall properly, that robotic observatory and its multiple 150 watt DROK’s are on and running 24/7, 365 days a year – and have been doing so for several years.  And if I also recall, this robotic observatory is in New Mexico and probably experiences day-time temperatures in the high 90’s in the summer and sub-freezing snow conditions in the Winter.

 

But just in case you didn’t follow the several posted links to this device in past posts, I’ll post the link to Amazon once more.  That’s where I bought mine.

 

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C9UAE28/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

Note that Amazon’s description clearly states:

“DROK DC-DC 6-32V to 0.8-28V 150W 15A Adjustable Boost/Buck Voltage Regulator 12V/24V Step-up/Step-down Volt Converter Stabilizer Rectifier Power Transformer Module”

So, right there in Amazon’s description is states “Boost/Buck” and “Voltage Regulator” and “Step-up/Step-down”.  If that’s not enough information then I strongly urge you to IGNORE this product and everything we’ve said about it.  It’s not for you.

 

And worse than a “mom and pop shop that’s going under or something”, I suggest that it’s a CHINESE Mom & Pop Shop.  And they’re not big on documentation or proper American English grammar either.  Again, I don’t think this product is for you.

 

I’m done with this thread.

 

Woody

 

 

 

Gentlemen, or at least your DROKING DROKers, (For those not using a DROK, their website is DROKING.com, so he who DROKs must be a DROKer).  That's my story and well you know the rest.

 

I've searched both DROKs site and Amazon and find that DROK makes both a Boost and a Buck but not a Boost Buck or Buck Boost.  I'm not nitpicking at all, but can any of you DROK product owners please provide a model number or product name and some explanation as to why their website still has September Clearance Sales listed?  Are they another mom and pop shop that's going under or something?

 

Thanks,

 

John A. Sillasen


New lights from a New observatory

Jos� Joaqu�n P�rez Guy
 

Dear group, here I'm again with some new images from my new remote observatory.This will be my astroimaging home from now.

The site is located in Rio Hurtado, 1.600 masl. Seeing expected to be 1 arcsec and less.


So far, everything is working as expected with observation tasks programmed for each night.

My AP1100GTO working flawlessly wit the help of Roland, of course :)

Here you can see the instalation of the ror :

file:///D:/astro-austral/imagenes/galaxies/Dorado_Group/DSC_5148(1).JPG

And a drone overview of the hill :

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=shbwtlPIDI4

Regarding the new images obtained so far :

1) First Light and the classics :

  • Helix PN in Aquarius

http://www.astro-austral.cl/imagenes/nebulae/NGC7293/info.htm

  • Silver dollar galaxy in Sculptor :

http://www.astro-austral.cl/imagenes/galaxies/ngc253/info.htm

  • Running Man Nebula in Orion :

http://www.astro-austral.cl/imagenes/nebulae/NGC%201977/info.htm

  • Full resolution crop :

http://www.astro-austral.cl/imagenes/nebulae/NGC%201977/crop.jpg

2) Overlooked .

  • Dorado Group in Doradus :

http://www.astro-austral.cl/imagenes/galaxies/Dorado_Group/info.htm

  • MBM 47 in Aquarius

This is an interesting region of dust consisting of multiple interlocking ribbons of dust.

 http://www.astro-austral.cl/imagenes/nebulae/Dust%20in%20Aquarius/info.htm

I'm working in a 2x2 mosaic of this region, but this will take a little more time.

Hope you like it.


Re: Question for Dave regarding DROK

John A. Sillasen
 

Gentlemen, or at least your DROKING DROKers, (For those not using a DROK, their website is DROKING.com, so he who DROKs must be a DROKer).  That's my story and well you know the rest.

I've searched both DROKs site and Amazon and find that DROK makes both a Boost and a Buck but not a Boost Buck or Buck Boost.  I'm not nitpicking at all, but can any of you DROK product owners please provide a model number or product name and some explanation as to why their website still has September Clearance Sales listed?  Are they another mom and pop shop that's going under or something?

Thanks,

John A. Sillasen


Re: Question for Dave regarding DROK

Woody Schlom <woody@...>
 

Joe,
 
1) In my system I measure (and set) nominal 12v voltage at the END of the line -- at the RIGrunner and then double-check at the device, both of which are mounted on the scope.  So this automatically compensates for any voltage loss due to too small wire size, long cable runs, etc.  But really, cable size and length aren't a problem with my imaging system as I place the main PS and DROK under the mount's tripod.  So my DC cable runs to the mount, focuser hub, and camera are just a few feet.  And I use 16 AWG wire to the RIGrunner and 18 AWG wire for my short DC power runs to each device.
 
USB is a different matter as I use an ICRON Ranger USB over Cat-5e system for that much longer run to the house or RV.
 
2) My DROK isn't at all the same one the other poster showed photos of and left the U-Tube link to.  That's a completely different device -- with completely different packaging.  I have the same one Dave originally suggested and has been using for years with his robotic system.  I think the brand name on mine is DROK -- at least that's what it says on Amazon where I bought mine.  The generic name for these devices is Boost/Buck (or is it Buck/Boost?).  And mine comes already packaged in a nice, trim, ribbed aluminum case with pre-drilled flush-mounting brackets on the ends. 
 
Mine measures 4" long, 1.75" wide, and 0.75" high.  And that's the full size -- including brackets and connectors.  It's much smaller than a RIGrunner 4005.  It has no cooling fan.  The ribbed aluminum case is its heat-sink.  And then I've mounted mine on a larger aluminum plate
 
Woody
 

Woody,
 
    That’s impressive. Your example shows how the DROK compensates for the voltage IT IS BEING SUPPLIED, and “boosts” its conversion level to maintain an OUTPUT set point voltage (under or over) ... based on its own INPUT. This will work great for a battery supply, which gradually loses power. However, if the DROK supply is from say an AC/DC supply, and the household power dips a bit – for reasons I stated previously – I would assume that a well regulated AC/DC supply would likewise maintain voltage for the DROK, in this chain.
 
    My “feedback loop” was more about voltage drop in the resistance of wires from the DROK to the telescope stuff. Would the DROK still provide a steady 12 vdc output during load changes – CCD cooling variable load, or mount slews, where more amps are drawn and some voltage is lost to the cable resistance?
 
    The DROK maintains its own output steady, even as it is supplied by weak or spikey  power. But without a feedback line, the DROK wouldn’t know about raising its preset 12 vdc slightly, to account for the equipment load it is supplying. Then again, DC cables are 2-wire, so a feedback compensation would require a third wire, which means special 3-wire cable if we wanted compensated output.
 
    Anyway,  it is probably not that much of a problem, unless the DROK is driving an accessory at borderline voltage levels. If the equipment loads the DROK output, so that a bit more is lost along the DC cable, then the CCD might only be running with 11.5 VDC (even though the DROK is putting out 12 vdc at its output terminals).
 
    The DROK supplying reliably consistent 12.0 vdc to the CCD depends somewhat on the cable length joining them, and the size of the load variability. The DROK can provide “reliable power” BELOW a user set maximum level, but not compensate for lost power actually delivered at the load.
 
    I’ll leave it at that, since this is more of a “theoretical” possibility.
Must say, based on its reasonable  price and excellent user feedback, the DROK is a really nice device for supplying varied levels of voltage to our diverse accessories.
 
*****
 
    One other thing came to mind, while viewing that “bulky” oversized  DROK case’s  assembly video.
In the interests of saving scope space needed for DROK enclosures, for say,  TWO different voltage levels controlled by individual DROK’s - I was wondering if it would be possible to “stack” two DROK boards inside the same case.
Would be nice to have just one (switchable) DROK meter for both – using something similar to the old PC’s (parallel port “printer sharing”)  switch for its two IDC cable connectors. But, I suspect the meter itself holds dedicated parameters for just one DROK - thus not switchable. In such case, a second DROK panel meter might still  be attached to the back end, with the  fan(s) and output posts, relocated to the enclosure side panel(s).
 
Joe


Re: Question for Dave regarding DROK

Joe Zeglinski
 

Woody,
 
    That’s impressive. Your example shows how the DROK compensates for the voltage IT IS BEING SUPPLIED, and “boosts” its conversion level to maintain an OUTPUT set point voltage (under or over) ... based on its own INPUT. This will work great for a battery supply, which gradually loses power. However, if the DROK supply is from say an AC/DC supply, and the household power dips a bit – for reasons I stated previously – I would assume that a well regulated AC/DC supply would likewise maintain voltage for the DROK, in this chain.
 
    My “feedback loop” was more about voltage drop in the resistance of wires from the DROK to the telescope stuff. Would the DROK still provide a steady 12 vdc output during load changes – CCD cooling variable load, or mount slews, where more amps are drawn and some voltage is lost to the cable resistance?
 
    The DROK maintains its own output steady, even as it is supplied by weak or spikey  power. But without a feedback line, the DROK wouldn’t know about raising its preset 12 vdc slightly, to account for the equipment load it is supplying. Then again, DC cables are 2-wire, so a feedback compensation would require a third wire, which means special 3-wire cable if we wanted compensated output.
 
    Anyway,  it is probably not that much of a problem, unless the DROK is driving an accessory at borderline voltage levels. If the equipment loads the DROK output, so that a bit more is lost along the DC cable, then the CCD might only be running with 11.5 VDC (even though the DROK is putting out 12 vdc at its output terminals).
 
    The DROK supplying reliably consistent 12.0 vdc to the CCD depends somewhat on the cable length joining them, and the size of the load variability. The DROK can provide “reliable power” BELOW a user set maximum level, but not compensate for lost power actually delivered at the load.
 
    I’ll leave it at that, since this is more of a “theoretical” possibility.
Must say, based on its reasonable  price and excellent user feedback, the DROK is a really nice device for supplying varied levels of voltage to our diverse accessories.
 
*****
 
    One other thing came to mind, while viewing that “bulky” oversized  DROK case’s  assembly video.
In the interests of saving scope space needed for DROK enclosures, for say,  TWO different voltage levels controlled by individual DROK’s - I was wondering if it would be possible to “stack” two DROK boards inside the same case.
Would be nice to have just one (switchable) DROK meter for both – using something similar to the old PC’s (parallel port “printer sharing”)  switch for its two IDC cable connectors. But, I suspect the meter itself holds dedicated parameters for just one DROK - thus not switchable. In such case, a second DROK panel meter might still  be attached to the back end, with the  fan(s) and output posts, relocated to the enclosure side panel(s).
 
Joe


Re: Question for Dave regarding DROK

Woody Schlom <woody@...>
 

Joe,
 
I don't know how it accomplishes voltage regulation, but when I vary the input voltage to my 150 watt DROK -- output voltage remains rock steady where I set it -- to within 1/100th of a volt.  For example, when attached to my Powerwerx variable PS, I measured an output voltage of 12.34v (my pre-set output voltage and as measured by my "True RMS DMM") at the DROK, even as I changed the Powerwerx's output voltage from 6v on to a max of 16v.  Somehow, the DROK seamlessly dealt with the dramatic voltage changes -- instantly.
 
True, this was a no-load test.  But it worked.
 
Woody
 

-----Original Message-----
From: ap-gto@... [mailto:ap-gto@...]
Sent: Tuesday, November 21, 2017 10:56 AM
To: ap-gto@...
Subject: Re: [ap-gto] Question for Dave regarding DROK

 

Ron,
 
(3. I don't need power outage battery. Yep out power goes out in storms often, but I don't image in storms.)
 
 
    The power utility might also “brown out your mains supply” in the summer, to satisfy regional air conditional overloads, or storm power outage load balancing for other neighbourhoods, not even your own. So, even on a perfectly clear night, you might still be getting less than full rated utility power. In which case, a battery backup would ride you through those brown outs, rather than your setup having to operate below 12.0  vdc.
 
    With something like a “Powerwerx PowerGate” you would have some assurance on minor drops,  and would save you the problem of trying to figure out what may have gone wrong with some image(s). That would save you a lot of time hunting for an equipment problem, when there actually wasn’t one.
 
    Otherwise, you might not even be affected,  if operating at the higher 13.8 vdc – There would be enough excess DC supplied to equipment, that they would continue to function normally at the lowered voltage.
    But, shaving your system down to 12 vdc, without battery backup of some kind for specific accessories, might starve them for power during such “regional power fluctuations”.
 
    I wonder if the DROK actually has an (undocumented) “voltage level feedback” connection line, like some really good regulated power supplies do. A line coming back from the destination, providing a delivered voltage level, accounting for all the losses in the delivery cable, would cause such a power supply to raise its voltage to compensate, even during power dips. The feedback would overcome many power loss causes, between the supply set point, and the equipment.
 
Joe


Re: Question for Dave regarding DROK

Joe Zeglinski
 

Ron,
 
(3. I don't need power outage battery. Yep out power goes out in storms often, but I don't image in storms.)
 
 
    The power utility might also “brown out your mains supply” in the summer, to satisfy regional air conditional overloads, or storm power outage load balancing for other neighbourhoods, not even your own. So, even on a perfectly clear night, you might still be getting less than full rated utility power. In which case, a battery backup would ride you through those brown outs, rather than your setup having to operate below 12.0  vdc.
 
    With something like a “Powerwerx PowerGate” you would have some assurance on minor drops,  and would save you the problem of trying to figure out what may have gone wrong with some image(s). That would save you a lot of time hunting for an equipment problem, when there actually wasn’t one.
 
    Otherwise, you might not even be affected,  if operating at the higher 13.8 vdc – There would be enough excess DC supplied to equipment, that they would continue to function normally at the lowered voltage.
    But, shaving your system down to 12 vdc, without battery backup of some kind for specific accessories, might starve them for power during such “regional power fluctuations”.
 
    I wonder if the DROK actually has an (undocumented) “voltage level feedback” connection line, like some really good regulated power supplies do. A line coming back from the destination, providing a delivered voltage level, accounting for all the losses in the delivery cable, would cause such a power supply to raise its voltage to compensate, even during power dips. The feedback would overcome many power loss causes, between the supply set point, and the equipment.
 
Joe


Re: Question for Dave regarding DROK

Ron Kramer
 

I can't be offended, no worries! - but different strokes. The "why" is less maintenance, (I never liked to work). 
less cost, (1/3rd less at least).  less wires, (cleanliness is next to Godliness).  space... (is at a premium in my dome).  and b.s.  = )

The last marine battery I bought for my boat (gel cell) was nearly 300.00 no thanks.  5years? you're about due!   = )   I live with winters that can be 10 below 0 f and don't want to be a slave to maintaining batteries.

My 290mm is working fine here - the 1600mmc - "cooler/heater died" (camera still worked).  Lynx (recommends 12v,  USB hub recommends 12v, less heat is always good on digital sensors. 

peace!




On Tue, Nov 21, 2017 at 12:35 PM, pnagy@... [ap-gto] <ap-gto@...> wrote:
 




---In ap-gto@..., wrote :

Understanding why.

1. I liked my 13.8 supply better it has VU meter and was 20.00 less. That's good. I never said not to use 13.8V supply.
2. I don't want a battery. I don't want it's cost or charging or replacement when its dead in 3 years. My 12VDC deep cycle marine battery is over 5 years old and still going strong. Battery is always maintained 24/7/365 in the garage.
3. I don't need power outage battery. Yep out power goes out in storms often, but I don't image in storms. I've had too much brownouts that ruined my imaging session so backup battery saves imaging session. They can happen on clear nights and our utility company can crap out at anytime.
4. Powergate is another 130 bucks. (for what?). This is optional. It does two things. One is it constantly charges the battery from power supply during imaging session and if there' a power outage, Powergate automatically switches to full-charged battery power and saves imaging session.
5. I can put my drok on my current supplies output and reduce to 12v. That's fine but I would put out more voltage to something like 12.5V due to possible voltage drop when it reaches to astro gears. You don't want to run below 12V at astro gears.
6. My 1600mm is is on it's way to china for REPAIR.  Don't use 13.8v. I have used 13.8V with my ASI290MC-Cool without issues. I think it was bad luck for you. All ASI cameras have high voltage input protection. A friend of mine accidentally used 24VDC power brick to power his ASI1600MC-Cool but didn't damage it thanks to high input voltage protection. He switched to 12VDC power brick and the camera is still working.

comprende'?

I apologize if my previous message offended you.

Peter


On Mon, Nov 20, 2017 at 9:43 PM, 'Woody Schlom' woody@... [ap-gto] <ap-gto@...> wrote:
 

Peter,

 

I see that you’re using a QSI camera.  At the bottom of page 11 in the QSI 500/600 operator’s manual is this NOTE.  I underlined the key sentence regarding what happens when you increase camera voltage over 12v.

 

Note: The camera is designed to operate on stable, regulated 12V DC power and consumes less than 2 amps at full power.  DC power input above or below 12V will decrease the maximum cooling capability of the camera by increasing power dissipation or lowering cooling efficiency. If the input voltage is below 11V or above 14V the camera will report an error until the voltage is returned to the specified range.   See Status and Notification below.   Caution: Applying an input voltage over 16V or under 10V may permanently damage the camera and will void the camera warranty.

 

So yes, the camera will operate at 13.8 volts.  But it cools better at 12v.  And since cooling is so important for long exposure camera performance (less noise for example), operating the camera on 12v is recommended.

 

Also note that the camera is designed to show an error message when input voltage is 14v or higher.  In fixed output mode, the Powerwerx power supplies put out 14.1v.

 

Last week there was a FAQ on the QSI webpage regarding running their cameras on 13.8v (What are the power requirements of QSI cameras?), but when I just went there and clicked that link, I got the 404 broken link message.  I now get that message for all their FAQ’s.  Hopefully this is a temporary problem with their website.  I hope they’re not closing down the website now.  As you probably know, QSI’s founder died recently and it looks as if the family and corporation are no longer interested in making and selling the QSI line of astro cameras.  But apparently they’ll still honor warranties.  I believe the parent company is continuing with their main lines of medical and instrumentation cameras.

 

Anyway, take a look at your QSI manual.  The above quote should be there – and at the bottom of page 11.  It suggests that lowering the input voltage closer  to 12v “should” help cool your camera better.

 

Woody

 

From: ap-gto@... [mailto:ap-gto@... ]
Sent: Monday, November 20, 2017 3:30 PM
To: ap-gto@...
Subject: Re: [ap-gto] Question for Dave regarding DROK

 

 

I don't understand why you are doing this? If certain 12VDC astro devices won't work at 13.8VDC, I wouldn't buy these products. I have a 14.1VDC Powerwerx power supply along with Powerwerx Powergate which ends up outputting 13.8VDC powering all of my 12VDC astro devices via RigRunner without issues. RigRunner can easily distribute voltages at 13.8VDC without issues. RigRunner is simply a power distribution box and does not care about voltages being delivered.

I have the following power devices:

13.8VDC power supply: https://powerwerx.com/ss30dv- desktop-dc-power-supply- powerpole
Powerwerx Powergate: https://powerwerx.com/west- mountain-radio-pg40s-super- pwrgate

The Powergate is very cool because it uses both Power Supply and any kind of 12VDC battery. It does two things. One is it charges/maintains battery while the power supply supplies power to astro gears during imaging session. Another is if there's a power outage, the Powergate automatically switches to battery to supply power to astro gears. This setup is simpler and better than what you are proposing.

I have the following 12VDC astro devices that works great at 13.8VDC:

1) A-P1100GTO mount
2) QSI 660wsg CCD camera
3) Optec/Starlight Instruments Focus Boss II auto focuser hub
4) USB power hub

Peter



---In ap-gto@..., <ronkramer1957@...> wrote :

I picked up this 13.8 for the mount - then I hope to run off the rear pin
outs to the DROK - reduce it to 12v and connect that to the rigrunner.





On Mon, Nov 20, 2017 at 5:45 PM, Ron Kramer <ronkramer1957@...> wrote:

> I thought that too - as he kinda points out that it's weird that it faces
> that way.
>
> On Mon, Nov 20, 2017 at 12:13 PM, 'Joseph Zeglinski'
> J.Zeglinski@... [ap-gto] <ap-gto@...> wrote:
>
>>
>>
>> Ron,
>>
>> That is an interesting assembly video. However, the one minor flaw of
>> the fan power supply capacitor “leaning against” the positive power post,
>> might be alleviated by reversing the power posts mounted on the case
>> backside, and flipping the fan module to face inward, toward the front.
>> There is plenty of room and this prevents its electronics - now sitting on
>> top of the posts - from hitting the power posts.
>>
>> Joe
>>
>>
>>
>
>





Re: Question for Dave regarding DROK

topboxman
 




---In ap-gto@..., <ronkramer1957@...> wrote :

Understanding why.

1. I liked my 13.8 supply better it has VU meter and was 20.00 less. That's good. I never said not to use 13.8V supply.
2. I don't want a battery. I don't want it's cost or charging or replacement when its dead in 3 years. My 12VDC deep cycle marine battery is over 5 years old and still going strong. Battery is always maintained 24/7/365 in the garage.
3. I don't need power outage battery. Yep out power goes out in storms often, but I don't image in storms. I've had too much brownouts that ruined my imaging session so backup battery saves imaging session. They can happen on clear nights and our utility company can crap out at anytime.
4. Powergate is another 130 bucks. (for what?). This is optional. It does two things. One is it constantly charges the battery from power supply during imaging session and if there' a power outage, Powergate automatically switches to full-charged battery power and saves imaging session.
5. I can put my drok on my current supplies output and reduce to 12v. That's fine but I would put out more voltage to something like 12.5V due to possible voltage drop when it reaches to astro gears. You don't want to run below 12V at astro gears.
6. My 1600mm is is on it's way to china for REPAIR.  Don't use 13.8v. I have used 13.8V with my ASI290MC-Cool without issues. I think it was bad luck for you. All ASI cameras have high voltage input protection. A friend of mine accidentally used 24VDC power brick to power his ASI1600MC-Cool but didn't damage it thanks to high input voltage protection. He switched to 12VDC power brick and the camera is still working.

comprende'?

I apologize if my previous message offended you.

Peter


On Mon, Nov 20, 2017 at 9:43 PM, 'Woody Schlom' woody@... [ap-gto] <ap-gto@...> wrote:
 

Peter,

 

I see that you’re using a QSI camera.  At the bottom of page 11 in the QSI 500/600 operator’s manual is this NOTE.  I underlined the key sentence regarding what happens when you increase camera voltage over 12v.

 

Note: The camera is designed to operate on stable, regulated 12V DC power and consumes less than 2 amps at full power.  DC power input above or below 12V will decrease the maximum cooling capability of the camera by increasing power dissipation or lowering cooling efficiency. If the input voltage is below 11V or above 14V the camera will report an error until the voltage is returned to the specified range.   See Status and Notification below.   Caution: Applying an input voltage over 16V or under 10V may permanently damage the camera and will void the camera warranty.

 

So yes, the camera will operate at 13.8 volts.  But it cools better at 12v.  And since cooling is so important for long exposure camera performance (less noise for example), operating the camera on 12v is recommended.

 

Also note that the camera is designed to show an error message when input voltage is 14v or higher.  In fixed output mode, the Powerwerx power supplies put out 14.1v.

 

Last week there was a FAQ on the QSI webpage regarding running their cameras on 13.8v (What are the power requirements of QSI cameras?), but when I just went there and clicked that link, I got the 404 broken link message.  I now get that message for all their FAQ’s.  Hopefully this is a temporary problem with their website.  I hope they’re not closing down the website now.  As you probably know, QSI’s founder died recently and it looks as if the family and corporation are no longer interested in making and selling the QSI line of astro cameras.  But apparently they’ll still honor warranties.  I believe the parent company is continuing with their main lines of medical and instrumentation cameras.

 

Anyway, take a look at your QSI manual.  The above quote should be there – and at the bottom of page 11.  It suggests that lowering the input voltage closer  to 12v “should” help cool your camera better.

 

Woody

 

From: ap-gto@... [mailto:ap-gto@... ]
Sent: Monday, November 20, 2017 3:30 PM
To: ap-gto@...
Subject: Re: [ap-gto] Question for Dave regarding DROK

 

 

I don't understand why you are doing this? If certain 12VDC astro devices won't work at 13.8VDC, I wouldn't buy these products. I have a 14.1VDC Powerwerx power supply along with Powerwerx Powergate which ends up outputting 13.8VDC powering all of my 12VDC astro devices via RigRunner without issues. RigRunner can easily distribute voltages at 13.8VDC without issues. RigRunner is simply a power distribution box and does not care about voltages being delivered.

I have the following power devices:

13.8VDC power supply: https://powerwerx.com/ss30dv- desktop-dc-power-supply- powerpole
Powerwerx Powergate: https://powerwerx.com/west- mountain-radio-pg40s-super- pwrgate

The Powergate is very cool because it uses both Power Supply and any kind of 12VDC battery. It does two things. One is it charges/maintains battery while the power supply supplies power to astro gears during imaging session. Another is if there's a power outage, the Powergate automatically switches to battery to supply power to astro gears. This setup is simpler and better than what you are proposing.

I have the following 12VDC astro devices that works great at 13.8VDC:

1) A-P1100GTO mount
2) QSI 660wsg CCD camera
3) Optec/Starlight Instruments Focus Boss II auto focuser hub
4) USB power hub

Peter



---In ap-gto@..., <ronkramer1957@...> wrote :

I picked up this 13.8 for the mount - then I hope to run off the rear pin
outs to the DROK - reduce it to 12v and connect that to the rigrunner.





On Mon, Nov 20, 2017 at 5:45 PM, Ron Kramer <ronkramer1957@...> wrote:

> I thought that too - as he kinda points out that it's weird that it faces
> that way.
>
> On Mon, Nov 20, 2017 at 12:13 PM, 'Joseph Zeglinski'
> J.Zeglinski@... [ap-gto] <ap-gto@...> wrote:
>
>>
>>
>> Ron,
>>
>> That is an interesting assembly video. However, the one minor flaw of
>> the fan power supply capacitor “leaning against” the positive power post,
>> might be alleviated by reversing the power posts mounted on the case
>> backside, and flipping the fan module to face inward, toward the front.
>> There is plenty of room and this prevents its electronics - now sitting on
>> top of the posts - from hitting the power posts.
>>
>> Joe
>>
>>
>>
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Re: Question for Dave regarding DROK

topboxman
 

I like higher voltage at the power source because there will always be voltage drop by the time it reached to astro gears. In my case I have Powerwerx PowerGate, RigRunner and about 6 feet long DC cables in between power source and astro gears and voltage can drop by as much as 0.5V to 0.8V so it's safe to have higher than 12V at the power source. Sometimes voltage will drop even further if adding more astro devices to the same regulated power source. I have been doing this for years without issues.

Peter

---In ap-gto@..., <woody@...> wrote :

Peter,

 

I see that you’re using a QSI camera.  At the bottom of page 11 in the QSI 500/600 operator’s manual is this NOTE.  I underlined the key sentence regarding what happens when you increase camera voltage over 12v.

 

Note: The camera is designed to operate on stable, regulated 12V DC power and consumes less than 2 amps at full power.  DC power input above or below 12V will decrease the maximum cooling capability of the camera by increasing power dissipation or lowering cooling efficiency. If the input voltage is below 11V or above 14V the camera will report an error until the voltage is returned to the specified range.   See Status and Notification below.   Caution: Applying an input voltage over 16V or under 10V may permanently damage the camera and will void the camera warranty.

 

So yes, the camera will operate at 13.8 volts.  But it cools better at 12v.  And since cooling is so important for long exposure camera performance (less noise for example), operating the camera on 12v is recommended.

 

Also note that the camera is designed to show an error message when input voltage is 14v or higher.  In fixed output mode, the Powerwerx power supplies put out 14.1v.

 

Last week there was a FAQ on the QSI webpage regarding running their cameras on 13.8v (What are the power requirements of QSI cameras?), but when I just went there and clicked that link, I got the 404 broken link message.  I now get that message for all their FAQ’s.  Hopefully this is a temporary problem with their website.  I hope they’re not closing down the website now.  As you probably know, QSI’s founder died recently and it looks as if the family and corporation are no longer interested in making and selling the QSI line of astro cameras.  But apparently they’ll still honor warranties.  I believe the parent company is continuing with their main lines of medical and instrumentation cameras.

 

Anyway, take a look at your QSI manual.  The above quote should be there – and at the bottom of page 11.  It suggests that lowering the input voltage closer  to 12v “should” help cool your camera better.

 

Woody

 

From: ap-gto@... [mailto:ap-gto@...]
Sent: Monday, November 20, 2017 3:30 PM
To: ap-gto@...
Subject: Re: [ap-gto] Question for Dave regarding DROK

 

 

I don't understand why you are doing this? If certain 12VDC astro devices won't work at 13.8VDC, I wouldn't buy these products. I have a 14.1VDC Powerwerx power supply along with Powerwerx Powergate which ends up outputting 13.8VDC powering all of my 12VDC astro devices via RigRunner without issues. RigRunner can easily distribute voltages at 13.8VDC without issues. RigRunner is simply a power distribution box and does not care about voltages being delivered.

I have the following power devices:

13.8VDC power supply: https://powerwerx.com/ss30dv-desktop-dc-power-supply-powerpole
Powerwerx Powergate: https://powerwerx.com/west-mountain-radio-pg40s-super-pwrgate

The Powergate is very cool because it uses both Power Supply and any kind of 12VDC battery. It does two things. One is it charges/maintains battery while the power supply supplies power to astro gears during imaging session. Another is if there's a power outage, the Powergate automatically switches to battery to supply power to astro gears. This setup is simpler and better than what you are proposing.

I have the following 12VDC astro devices that works great at 13.8VDC:

1) A-P1100GTO mount
2) QSI 660wsg CCD camera
3) Optec/Starlight Instruments Focus Boss II auto focuser hub
4) USB power hub

Peter



---In ap-gto@..., <ronkramer1957@...> wrote :

I picked up this 13.8 for the mount - then I hope to run off the rear pin
outs to the DROK - reduce it to 12v and connect that to the rigrunner.





On Mon, Nov 20, 2017 at 5:45 PM, Ron Kramer <ronkramer1957@...> wrote:

> I thought that too - as he kinda points out that it's weird that it faces
> that way.
>
> On Mon, Nov 20, 2017 at 12:13 PM, 'Joseph Zeglinski'
> J.Zeglinski@... [ap-gto] <ap-gto@...> wrote:
>
>>
>>
>> Ron,
>>
>> That is an interesting assembly video. However, the one minor flaw of
>> the fan power supply capacitor “leaning against” the positive power post,
>> might be alleviated by reversing the power posts mounted on the case
>> backside, and flipping the fan module to face inward, toward the front.
>> There is plenty of room and this prevents its electronics - now sitting on
>> top of the posts - from hitting the power posts.
>>
>> Joe
>>
>>
>>
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: Question for Dave regarding DROK

Ron Kramer
 

Unstanding why.

1. I liked my 13.8 supply better it has VU meter and was 20.00 less 
2. I don't want a battery. I don't want it's cost or charging or replacement when its dead in 3 years.
3. I don't need power outage battery. Yep out power goes out in storms often, but I don't image in storms.
4. Powergate is another 130 bucks. (for what?) 
5. I can put my drok on my current supplies output and reduce to 12v. 
6. My 1600mm is is on it's way to china for REPAIR.  Don't use 13.8v.

comprende'? 


On Mon, Nov 20, 2017 at 9:43 PM, 'Woody Schlom' woody@... [ap-gto] <ap-gto@...> wrote:
 

Peter,

 

I see that you’re using a QSI camera.  At the bottom of page 11 in the QSI 500/600 operator’s manual is this NOTE.  I underlined the key sentence regarding what happens when you increase camera voltage over 12v.

 

Note: The camera is designed to operate on stable, regulated 12V DC power and consumes less than 2 amps at full power.  DC power input above or below 12V will decrease the maximum cooling capability of the camera by increasing power dissipation or lowering cooling efficiency. If the input voltage is below 11V or above 14V the camera will report an error until the voltage is returned to the specified range.   See Status and Notification below.   Caution: Applying an input voltage over 16V or under 10V may permanently damage the camera and will void the camera warranty.

 

So yes, the camera will operate at 13.8 volts.  But it cools better at 12v.  And since cooling is so important for long exposure camera performance (less noise for example), operating the camera on 12v is recommended.

 

Also note that the camera is designed to show an error message when input voltage is 14v or higher.  In fixed output mode, the Powerwerx power supplies put out 14.1v.

 

Last week there was a FAQ on the QSI webpage regarding running their cameras on 13.8v (What are the power requirements of QSI cameras?), but when I just went there and clicked that link, I got the 404 broken link message.  I now get that message for all their FAQ’s.  Hopefully this is a temporary problem with their website.  I hope they’re not closing down the website now.  As you probably know, QSI’s founder died recently and it looks as if the family and corporation are no longer interested in making and selling the QSI line of astro cameras.  But apparently they’ll still honor warranties.  I believe the parent company is continuing with their main lines of medical and instrumentation cameras.

 

Anyway, take a look at your QSI manual.  The above quote should be there – and at the bottom of page 11.  It suggests that lowering the input voltage closer  to 12v “should” help cool your camera better.

 

Woody

 

From: ap-gto@... [mailto:ap-gto@...]
Sent: Monday, November 20, 2017 3:30 PM
To: ap-gto@...
Subject: Re: [ap-gto] Question for Dave regarding DROK

 

 

I don't understand why you are doing this? If certain 12VDC astro devices won't work at 13.8VDC, I wouldn't buy these products. I have a 14.1VDC Powerwerx power supply along with Powerwerx Powergate which ends up outputting 13.8VDC powering all of my 12VDC astro devices via RigRunner without issues. RigRunner can easily distribute voltages at 13.8VDC without issues. RigRunner is simply a power distribution box and does not care about voltages being delivered.

I have the following power devices:

13.8VDC power supply: https://powerwerx.com/ss30dv-desktop-dc-power-supply-powerpole
Powerwerx Powergate: https://powerwerx.com/west-mountain-radio-pg40s-super-pwrgate

The Powergate is very cool because it uses both Power Supply and any kind of 12VDC battery. It does two things. One is it charges/maintains battery while the power supply supplies power to astro gears during imaging session. Another is if there's a power outage, the Powergate automatically switches to battery to supply power to astro gears. This setup is simpler and better than what you are proposing.

I have the following 12VDC astro devices that works great at 13.8VDC:

1) A-P1100GTO mount
2) QSI 660wsg CCD camera
3) Optec/Starlight Instruments Focus Boss II auto focuser hub
4) USB power hub

Peter



---In ap-gto@..., <ronkramer1957@...> wrote :

I picked up this 13.8 for the mount - then I hope to run off the rear pin
outs to the DROK - reduce it to 12v and connect that to the rigrunner.





On Mon, Nov 20, 2017 at 5:45 PM, Ron Kramer <ronkramer1957@...> wrote:

> I thought that too - as he kinda points out that it's weird that it faces
> that way.
>
> On Mon, Nov 20, 2017 at 12:13 PM, 'Joseph Zeglinski'
> J.Zeglinski@... [ap-gto] <ap-gto@...> wrote:
>
>>
>>
>> Ron,
>>
>> That is an interesting assembly video. However, the one minor flaw of
>> the fan power supply capacitor “leaning against” the positive power post,
>> might be alleviated by reversing the power posts mounted on the case
>> backside, and flipping the fan module to face inward, toward the front.
>> There is plenty of room and this prevents its electronics - now sitting on
>> top of the posts - from hitting the power posts.
>>
>> Joe
>>
>>
>>
>
>




Re: 12v power supply.

Ron Kramer
 

I talked to Jeff in person a couple weeks ago about the same thing. He
personally fixed my lynx control box while I watched. = )
My thinking is "if I need to reduce to 12v" for my cameras. (ASI1600MM and
ASI290mm) why not run a lead to the lynx controller (to be safe).
I figure I'll feed my rig-runner with the 12v since that supplies all the
top mounted gear. (heater, lynx, 2 HSM motors, USB hub, two ASI cameras).
Then I ran my mounts lead from the 12v down to the new powersupply that I
just picked up which is 13.8 fixed.





On Mon, Nov 20, 2017 at 3:10 PM, 'Woody Schlom' woody@alumni.ucla.edu
[ap-gto] <ap-gto@yahoogroups.com> wrote:



Don,

You're correct. I just went back and looked at my message from Jeff and
he indeed did say 13.8v would just generate some additional heat, but the
higher voltage should be OK. He wasn't the one who mentioned shortening
the life of the device. That was a different manufacturer. I received two
messages regarding 13.8v at the same time from two manufacturers and got
them mixed up.

Thank you for your clarification and catching my error.

So it looks like it's just the astro cameras that prefer 12v and don't
"like" higher voltages. And yes, most can perform and operate at 13.8v,
but they just heat up more and don't cool as well.

Woody



-----Original Message-----
*From:* ap-gto@yahoogroups.com [mailto:ap-gto@yahoogroups.com]
*Sent:* Monday, November 20, 2017 10:33 AM
*To:* ap-gto@yahoogroups.com
*Subject:* RE: [ap-gto] Re: 12v power supply.



I picked up on this thread late during a periodic review of this groups
posts. I am quite interested in the discussion about operating electronics
on 13.8V v/s 12V especially the FocusLynx hub since I operate mine on
13.8V. I noted your comment regarding your discussion with Jeff at Optec on
the potential shortened life of the FocusLynx hub if operated at 13.8V.
Below is Jeff's reply to my query on this question. I understand this
applies to Optec only and does not necessarily apply to other manufactures.
I hope this info is useful
Chees
Don


Hi Don,
Thanks for your note. I don't recall suggesting the higher voltage would
shorten equipment life to be honest. There will be a little more heat
generated - usually by the voltage regulators in the circuit, but since we
usually work at night in the relative cold t! his should not be a real
problem. I'm not sure a shortened lifespan would be measurable if you're
running a 13.8 VDC system compared to 12 VDC.

The FocusLynx hub, for instance, (which is the product used by
Astro-Physics) has two voltage regulators for 5-volt and 3.3-volt
components used in this circuit. The higher voltage of 12 or 13.8-volts
is passed directly onto the motors while the lower voltage circuits operate
the PIC, ethernet, and other onboard ICs. Operating the stepper motors at
13.8 volts or higher should not adversely affect them since most of the
Nippon motors we use are designed and rated for 24 VDC operation.
In short, other than a little additional heat, you should no worries
running our devices with standard battery voltages.

I hope this helps,
Jeff.

Hi Don,
Thanks for your note. I don't recall suggesting the higher voltage would
shorten equipment life to be honest. There will be a little more heat
generated - usually by the voltage regulators in the circuit, but since we
usually work at night in the relative cold this should not be a real
problem. I'm not sure a shortened lifespan would be measurable if you're
running a 13.8 VDC system compared to 12 VDC.

The FocusLynx hub, for instance, (which is the p roduct used by
Astro-Physics) has two voltage regulators for 5-volt and 3.3-volt
components used in this circuit. The higher voltage of 12 or 13.8-volts
is passed directly! onto the motors while the lower voltage circuits
operate the PIC, ethernet, and other onboard ICs. Operating the stepper
motors at 13.8 volts or higher should not adversely affect them since most
of the Nippon motors we use are designed and rated for 24 VDC operation.
In short, other than a little additional heat, you should no worries
running our devices with standard battery voltages.

I hope this helps,
Jeff.



Thanks for your note. I don't recall suggesting the higher voltage would
shorten equipment life to be honest. There will be a little more heat
generated - usually by the voltage regulators i! n the circuit, but since
we usually work at night in the relative cold ! this should not be a real
problem. I'm not sure a shortened lifespan would be measurable if you're
running a 13.8 VDC system compared to 12 VDC.

The FocusLynx hub, for instance, (which is the product used by
Astro-Physics) has two voltage regulators for 5-volt and 3.3-volt
components used in this circuit. The higher voltage of 12 or 13.8-volts
is passed directly onto the motors while the lower voltage circuits operate
the PIC, ethernet, and other onboard ICs. Operating the stepper motors at
13.8 volts or higher should not adversely affect them since most of the
Nippon motors we use are designed and rated for 24 VDC operation.
In short, other than a little additional heat, you should no worries
running our devices with standard battery voltages.

I hope this helps,
Jeff.



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: 12v power supply.

Christopher Erickson
 

"Watts are watts" but not all voltage regulators are created equal.
 
Classic linear regulators shed heat when regulating a higher voltage to a lower voltage.  The bigger the voltage difference, the more heat is shed.
 
Modern switching regulators use a completely different and higher-efficiency method of regulating voltage without shedding heat.  Quality switching regulators are more expensive than linear regulators.
 
The less heat that is released in cameras or in the optical path of telescopes, the better.  Higher efficiency voltage regulation is also very desirable in off-grid observatories.
 
Yes, it would be nice if everyone designed their electronic widgets with high-efficiency, wide-voltage-input-range, switching voltage regulators inside.  Unfortunately that is actually rather rare it seems.  Everyone tries to save a buck on things that the user doesn't see or know to care about.  That's the down side of competition.  The only company I have seen using high-efficiency, wide-input-voltage-range, switching voltage regulators inside their electronic widgets is Astro-Physics.
 
I will say again that anyone who wants to run their electronic widgets with some kind of power source other than what the widget came with, should check with the widget's manufacturer first.  That shouldn't take too much effort and is much less costly than damaging your precious widgets or degrading your local seeing and astro pics with excessive and unnecessary camera and/or observatory heat.
 
Not to mention voiding widget warranties.
 
 
-Christopher Erickson
Observatory engineer
Summit Kinetics
Waikoloa, HI 96738
www.summitkinetics.com
 



From: ap-gto@... [mailto:ap-gto@...]
Sent: Monday, November 20, 2017 3:03 PM
To: ap-gto@...
Subject: Re: [ap-gto] Re: 12v power supply.

Still think you guys are making this more complicated than needed.

Watts is Watts. Reducing voltage increases current (amps), so the result is the same. 

Using separate power sources means more wires, and for me, that is really something to worry about.

Gary Bennett

On Nov 20, 2017, at 3:10 PM, 'Woody Schlom' woody@... [ap-gto] <ap-gto@...> wrote:

 

Don,
 
You're correct.  I just went back and looked at my message from Jeff and he indeed did say 13.8v would just generate some additional heat, but the higher voltage should be OK.  He wasn't the one who mentioned shortening the life of the device.  That was a different manufacturer.  I received two messages regarding 13.8v at the same time from two manufacturers and got them mixed up.
 
Thank you for your clarification and catching my error.
 
So it looks like it's just the astro cameras that prefer 12v and don't "like" higher voltages.  And yes, most can perform and operate at 13.8v, but they just heat up more and don't cool as well.
 
Woody
 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: ap-gto@... [mailto:ap-gto@...]
Sent: Monday, November 20, 2017 10:33 AM
To: ap-gto@...
Subject: RE: [ap-gto] Re: 12v power supply.

 

I picked up on this thread late during a periodic review of this groups posts. I am quite interested in the discussion about operating electronics on 13.8V v/s 12V especially the FocusLynx hub since I operate mine on 13.8V. I noted your comment regarding your discussion with Jeff at Optec on the potential shortened life of the FocusLynx hub if operated at 13.8V. Below is Jeff's reply to my query on this question. I understand this applies to Optec only and does not necessarily apply to other manufactures.

I hope this info is useful
Chees
Don


Hi Don,

Thanks for your note.  I don't recall suggesting the higher voltage would shorten equipment life to be honest.  There will be a little more heat generated - usually by the voltage regulators in the circuit, but since we usually work at night in the relative cold t! his should not be a real problem.  I'm not sure a shortened lifespan would be measurable if you're running a 13.8 VDC system compared to 12 VDC.  

The FocusLynx hub, for instance, (which is the product used by Astro-Physics) has two voltage regulators for 5-volt and 3.3-volt components used in this circuit.  The higher voltage of  12 or 13.8-volts is passed directly onto the motors while the lower voltage circuits operate the PIC, ethernet, and other onboard ICs.  Operating the stepper motors at 13.8 volts or higher should not adversely affect them since most of the Nippon motors we use are designed and rated for 24 VDC operation.
In short, other than a little additional heat, you should no worries running our devices with standard battery voltages.

     I hope this helps,
Jeff.

Hi Don,

Thanks for your note.  I don't recall suggesting the higher voltage would shorten equipment life to be honest.  There will be a little more heat generated - usually by the voltage regulators in the circuit, but since we usually work at night in the relative cold this should not be a real problem.  I'm not sure a shortened lifespan would be measurable if you're running a 13.8 VDC system compared to 12 VDC.  

The FocusLynx hub, for instance, (which is the p roduct used by Astro-Physics) has two voltage regulators for 5-volt and 3.3-volt components used in this circuit.  The higher voltage of  12 or 13.8-volts is passed directly! onto the motors while the lower voltage circuits operate the PIC, ethernet, and other onboard ICs.  Operating the stepper motors at 13.8 volts or higher should not adversely affect them since most of the Nippon motors we use are designed and rated for 24 VDC operation.
In short, other than a little additional heat, you should no worries running our devices with standard battery voltages.

     I hope this helps,
Jeff.


 

Thanks for your note.  I don't recall suggesting the higher voltage would shorten equipment life to be honest.  There will be a little more heat generated - usually by the voltage regulators i! n the circuit, but since we usually work at night in the relative cold ! this should not be a real problem.  I'm not sure a shortened lifespan would be measurable if you're running a 13.8 VDC system compared to 12 VDC.  

The FocusLynx hub, for instance, (which is the product used by Astro-Physics) has two voltage regulators for 5-volt and 3.3-volt components used in this circuit.  The higher voltage of  12 or 13.8-volts is passed directly onto the motors while the lower voltage circuits operate the PIC, ethernet, and other onboard ICs.  Operating the stepper motors at 13.8 volts or higher should not adversely affect them since most of the Nippon motors we use are designed and rated for 24 VDC operation.
In short, other than a little additional heat, you should no worries running our devices with standard battery voltages.

     I hope this helps,
Jeff.


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