Date   

Re: 12v power supply.

Woody Schlom <woody@...>
 

Don,
 
You're correct.  I just went back and looked at my message from Jeff and he indeed did say 13.8v would just generate some additional heat, but the higher voltage should be OK.  He wasn't the one who mentioned shortening the life of the device.  That was a different manufacturer.  I received two messages regarding 13.8v at the same time from two manufacturers and got them mixed up.
 
Thank you for your clarification and catching my error.
 
So it looks like it's just the astro cameras that prefer 12v and don't "like" higher voltages.  And yes, most can perform and operate at 13.8v, but they just heat up more and don't cool as well.
 
Woody
 
 

-----Original Message-----
From: ap-gto@... [mailto:ap-gto@...]
Sent: Monday, November 20, 2017 10:33 AM
To: ap-gto@...
Subject: RE: [ap-gto] Re: 12v power supply.

 

I picked up on this thread late during a periodic review of this groups posts. I am quite interested in the discussion about operating electronics on 13.8V v/s 12V especially the FocusLynx hub since I operate mine on 13.8V. I noted your comment regarding your discussion with Jeff at Optec on the potential shortened life of the FocusLynx hub if operated at 13.8V. Below is Jeff's reply to my query on this question. I understand this applies to Optec only and does not necessarily apply to other manufactures.

I hope this info is useful
Chees
Don


Hi Don,

Thanks for your note.  I don't recall suggesting the higher voltage would shorten equipment life to be honest.  There will be a little more heat generated - usually by the voltage regulators in the circuit, but since we usually work at night in the relative cold t! his should not be a real problem.  I'm not sure a shortened lifespan would be measurable if you're running a 13.8 VDC system compared to 12 VDC.  

The FocusLynx hub, for instance, (which is the product used by Astro-Physics) has two voltage regulators for 5-volt and 3.3-volt components used in this circuit.  The higher voltage of  12 or 13.8-volts is passed directly onto the motors while the lower voltage circuits operate the PIC, ethernet, and other onboard ICs.  Operating the stepper motors at 13.8 volts or higher should not adversely affect them since most of the Nippon motors we use are designed and rated for 24 VDC operation.
In short, other than a little additional heat, you should no worries running our devices with standard battery voltages.

     I hope this helps,
Jeff.

Hi Don,

Thanks for your note.  I don't recall suggesting the higher voltage would shorten equipment life to be honest.  There will be a little more heat generated - usually by the voltage regulators in the circuit, but since we usually work at night in the relative cold this should not be a real problem.  I'm not sure a shortened lifespan would be measurable if you're running a 13.8 VDC system compared to 12 VDC.  

The FocusLynx hub, for instance, (which is the p roduct used by Astro-Physics) has two voltage regulators for 5-volt and 3.3-volt components used in this circuit.  The higher voltage of  12 or 13.8-volts is passed directly! onto the motors while the lower voltage circuits operate the PIC, ethernet, and other onboard ICs.  Operating the stepper motors at 13.8 volts or higher should not adversely affect them since most of the Nippon motors we use are designed and rated for 24 VDC operation.
In short, other than a little additional heat, you should no worries running our devices with standard battery voltages.

     I hope this helps,
Jeff.


 

Thanks for your note.  I don't recall suggesting the higher voltage would shorten equipment life to be honest.  There will be a little more heat generated - usually by the voltage regulators i! n the circuit, but since we usually work at night in the relative cold ! this should not be a real problem.  I'm not sure a shortened lifespan would be measurable if you're running a 13.8 VDC system compared to 12 VDC.  

The FocusLynx hub, for instance, (which is the product used by Astro-Physics) has two voltage regulators for 5-volt and 3.3-volt components used in this circuit.  The higher voltage of  12 or 13.8-volts is passed directly onto the motors while the lower voltage circuits operate the PIC, ethernet, and other onboard ICs.  Operating the stepper motors at 13.8 volts or higher should not adversely affect them since most of the Nippon motors we use are designed and rated for 24 VDC operation.
In short, other than a little additional heat, you should no worries running our devices with standard battery voltages.

     I hope this helps,
Jeff.


Re: I am back inaging after 18 months!!!!

topboxman
 

Thanks Rolando for your kind words. It's great to be imaging again.

Peter


---In ap-gto@..., <chris1011@...> wrote :

Hi Peter,

That's a great image, lots of nice details and colors are great.

Rolando

P.S. Glad you are healthy again.



-----Original Message-----
From: pnagy@... [ap-gto] <ap-gto@...>
To: ap-gto <ap-gto@...>
Sent: Sun, Nov 19, 2017 7:04 pm
Subject: [ap-gto] I am back inaging after 18 months!!!!



Hi,

I am back imaging after 18 months. Two reasons. One was the weather has been horrible and the other I was diagnosed with an autoimmune disease called TTP (please do a Google search) which was attacking my healthy platelet cells but I have been in remission for 8 months since I received treatment. It was very difficult to be motivated in this hobby and thinking about this awful disease but I am finally feeling good.

This is M33 Triangulum Galaxy. This is my first time imaging with Lum filter and it works very well. I have a TEC 140 APO scope and usually don't image with Lum filter because I was getting pretty big star bloats due to the scope not perfectly correcting blue light. Eventually I found out that TEC makes a great Field Flattener that actually does a wonderful job of correcting blue light. I do not understand why TEC does not advertise their FF correcting blue light. Anyway, here are the details:

High resolution image at: https://peternagy.smugmug.com/Telescopes/Galaxies/i-CsFnV6r/A

This was taken from my light polluted backyard in Reno, NV. Used A-P1100GTO mount and it worked flawlessly with SGP automation software and PHD2 guiding. Total of 72 subs captured and not one sub was thrown out.

M33 Triangulum Galaxy. RGB + Luminance. 0.93"/pixel image scale.

Astrodon Red filter,  12 x 5 minutes, 1x1. 11/17/2017.
Astrodon Green filter, 12 x 5 minutes, 1x1. 11/17/2017.
Astrodon Blue filter, 12 x 5 minutes, 1x1. 11/17/2017.
Astrodon Lum filter, 36 x 5 minutes, 1x1. 11/17/2017.

TEC 140 APO F/7 with TEC Field Flattener, Astro-Physics A-P1100GTO GEM. QSI660wsg. OAG and Ultrastar autoguider, Optec Handy Stepper Motor focuser. Captured and automated with SGP. Calibration (including Dark Subtraction) and Post-processed with PixInsight. PHD2 settings: RA Aggressiveness: 60, RA Hysteresis: 10, Max RA/Dec Duration: 2000, Min Move: 0.45, Calibration Steps: 250msec, Auto/Resist Switching, 1 sec guiding exposure.

I am pretty happy with the results. At first I didn't want to image because it was pretty cold outside but the forecast for the next few days was not promising so I imaged M33 last night. It was one of the better nights, the seeing was not spectacular but it was not bad. FWHM varied between 2" and 3". Here are the best FWHM details for each filter:

Red: 2.640"
Green: 2.074"
Blue: 2.325"
Lum: 2.428"

Using Unihedron sky quality device, the sky quality was 19.13 mags/arsec squared.

No dithering because I felt my Sony ICX-694 CCD QSI camera has super low dark current and very little to no FPN. Guiding was f antastic that at first I accidentally didn't do Star Alignments before stacking and didn't notice bad stacking but I re-did stacking anyway by doing Star Alignments first.

Since Declination of M33 (30 degrees) was lower than my local latitude (almost 40 degrees), Meridian flipping was not necessary.

I was using Astrodon I-Series filters instead of the recommended E-Series filters for Sony ICX-XXX CCDs. I have both sets of filters and this was my first time using I-Series filters and I could not tell much difference between I-Series and E-Series filters.

Thanks for reading my long post.

Peter





Re: 12v power supply.

Don Anderson
 

I picked up on this thread late during a periodic review of this groups posts. I am quite interested in the discussion about operating electronics on 13.8V v/s 12V especially the FocusLynx hub since I operate mine on 13.8V. I noted your comment regarding your discussion with Jeff at Optec on the potential shortened life of the FocusLynx hub if operated at 13.8V. Below is Jeff's reply to my query on this question. I understand this applies to Optec only and does not necessarily apply to other manufactures.
I hope this info is useful
Chees
Don


Hi Don,

Thanks for your note.  I don't recall suggesting the higher voltage would shorten equipment life to be honest.  There will be a little more heat generated - usually by the voltage regulators in the circuit, but since we usually work at night in the relative cold this should not be a real problem.  I'm not sure a shortened lifespan would be measurable if you're running a 13.8 VDC system compared to 12 VDC.  

The FocusLynx hub, for instance, (which is the product used by Astro-Physics) has two voltage regulators for 5-volt and 3.3-volt components used in this circuit.  The higher voltage of  12 or 13.8-volts is passed directly onto the motors while the lower voltage circuits operate the PIC, ethernet, and other onboard ICs.  Operating the stepper motors at 13.8 volts or higher should not adversely affect them since most of the Nippon motors we use are designed and rated for 24 VDC operation.
In short, other than a little additional heat, you should no worries running our devices with standard battery voltages.

     I hope this helps,
Jeff.

Hi Don,

Thanks for your note.  I don't recall suggesting the higher voltage would shorten equipment life to be honest.  There will be a little more heat generated - usually by the voltage regulators in the circuit, but since we usually work at night in the relative cold this should not be a real problem.  I'm not sure a shortened lifespan would be measurable if you're running a 13.8 VDC system compared to 12 VDC.  

The FocusLynx hub, for instance, (which is the p roduct used by Astro-Physics) has two voltage regulators for 5-volt and 3.3-volt components used in this circuit.  The higher voltage of  12 or 13.8-volts is passed directly onto the motors while the lower voltage circuits operate the PIC, ethernet, and other onboard ICs.  Operating the stepper motors at 13.8 volts or higher should not adversely affect them since most of the Nippon motors we use are designed and rated for 24 VDC operation.
In short, other than a little additional heat, you should no worries running our devices with standard battery voltages.

     I hope this helps,
Jeff.


 

Thanks for your note.  I don't recall suggesting the higher voltage would shorten equipment life to be honest.  There will be a little more heat generated - usually by the voltage regulators in the circuit, but since we usually work at night in the relative cold this should not be a real problem.  I'm not sure a shortened lifespan would be measurable if you're running a 13.8 VDC system compared to 12 VDC.  

The FocusLynx hub, for instance, (which is the product used by Astro-Physics) has two voltage regulators for 5-volt and 3.3-volt components used in this circuit.  The higher voltage of  12 or 13.8-volts is passed directly onto the motors while the lower voltage circuits operate the PIC, ethernet, and other onboard ICs.  Operating the stepper motors at 13.8 volts or higher should not adversely affect them since most of the Nippon motors we use are designed and rated for 24 VDC operation.
In short, other than a little additional heat, you should no worries running our devices with standard battery voltages.

     I hope this helps,
Jeff.


Re: Question for Dave regarding DROK

Joe Zeglinski
 

Ron,
 
    That is an interesting assembly video. However, the one minor flaw of the fan power supply capacitor “leaning against” the positive power post, might be alleviated by reversing the power posts mounted on the case backside,  and flipping the fan module to face inward, toward the front. There is plenty of room and this prevents its electronics - now sitting on top of the posts - from hitting the power posts.
 
Joe


Re: I am back inaging after 18 months!!!!

Roland Christen
 

Hi Peter,

That's a great image, lots of nice details and colors are great.

Rolando

P.S. Glad you are healthy again.



-----Original Message-----
From: pnagy@... [ap-gto]
To: ap-gto
Sent: Sun, Nov 19, 2017 7:04 pm
Subject: [ap-gto] I am back inaging after 18 months!!!!



Hi,

I am back imaging after 18 months. Two reasons. One was the weather has been horrible and the other I was diagnosed with an autoimmune disease called TTP (please do a Google search) which was attacking my healthy platelet cells but I have been in remission for 8 months since I received treatment. It was very difficult to be motivated in this hobby and thinking about this awful disease but I am finally feeling good.

This is M33 Triangulum Galaxy. This is my first time imaging with Lum filter and it works very well. I have a TEC 140 APO scope and usually don't image with Lum filter because I was getting pretty big star bloats due to the scope not perfectly correcting blue light. Eventually I found out that TEC makes a great Field Flattener that actually does a wonderful job of correcting blue light. I do not understand why TEC does not advertise their FF correcting blue light. Anyway, here are the details:

High resolution image at: https://peternagy.smugmug.com/Telescopes/Galaxies/i-CsFnV6r/A

This was taken from my light polluted backyard in Reno, NV. Used A-P1100GTO mount and it worked flawlessly with SGP automation software and PHD2 guiding. Total of 72 subs captured and not one sub was thrown out.

M33 Triangulum Galaxy. RGB + Luminance. 0.93"/pixel image scale.

Astrodon Red filter,  12 x 5 minutes, 1x1. 11/17/2017.
Astrodon Green filter, 12 x 5 minutes, 1x1. 11/17/2017.
Astrodon Blue filter, 12 x 5 minutes, 1x1. 11/17/2017.
Astrodon Lum filter, 36 x 5 minutes, 1x1. 11/17/2017.

TEC 140 APO F/7 with TEC Field Flattener, Astro-Physics A-P1100GTO GEM. QSI660wsg. OAG and Ultrastar autoguider, Optec Handy Stepper Motor focuser. Captured and automated with SGP. Calibration (including Dark Subtraction) and Post-processed with PixInsight. PHD2 settings: RA Aggressiveness: 60, RA Hysteresis: 10, Max RA/Dec Duration: 2000, Min Move: 0.45, Calibration Steps: 250msec, Auto/Resist Switching, 1 sec guiding exposure.

I am pretty happy with the results. At first I didn't want to image because it was pretty cold outside but the forecast for the next few days was not promising so I imaged M33 last night. It was one of the better nights, the seeing was not spectacular but it was not bad. FWHM varied between 2" and 3". Here are the best FWHM details for each filter:

Red: 2.640"
Green: 2.074"
Blue: 2.325"
Lum: 2.428"

Using Unihedron sky quality device, the sky quality was 19.13 mags/arsec squared.

No dithering because I felt my Sony ICX-694 CCD QSI camera has super low dark current and very little to no FPN. Guiding was f antastic that at first I accidentally didn't do Star Alignments before stacking and didn't notice bad stacking but I re-did stacking anyway by doing Star Alignments first.

Since Declination of M33 (30 degrees) was lower than my local latitude (almost 40 degrees), Meridian flipping was not necessary.

I was using Astrodon I-Series filters instead of the recommended E-Series filters for Sony ICX-XXX CCDs. I have both sets of filters and this was my first time using I-Series filters and I could not tell much difference between I-Series and E-Series filters.

Thanks for reading my long post.

Peter





Re: Question for Dave regarding DROK

Ron Kramer
 

There are lots of youtube videos showing these. I ordered this one with case.

On Sat, Nov 4, 2017 at 10:13 PM, dave@... [ap-gto] <ap-gto@...> wrote:
 

it’s probably for an off/on switch if needed.

Dave



Re: APCC "Enable Pointing/Tracking Correction" turning on by itself

Ray Gralak
 

Hi Eric,

When it happened I was not touching the PC, in fact, a few times it happened when I was inside.
The setting is only changed by human interaction. There is no other way for it to change, besides when APCC is initialized to whatever values are in APCC's settings file.

I'm guessing that maybe you hadn't realized that you accidentally turned it on. I suggest now that you know that double clicking the status bar can change a setting, be mindful of that and wait and see if it happens again.

Is there anything in the log file that would indicate what's turning them on? Or that indicates when they are on
versus off?
I don’t think there is, but if it does happen again try looking through the log file to see when tracking rate adjustments started. That might provide a clue as to what your setup was doing at the time.

Another solution is to create a small model so that if you change the settings there will be something for APCC to use. Or better yet... always use the model! :-)

Best regards,

-Ray Gralak
Author of APCC (Astro-Physics Command Center): http://www.astro-physics.com/index.htm?products/accessories/software/apcc/apcc
Author of PEMPro: http://www.ccdware.com
Author of Astro-Physics V2 ASCOM Driver: http://www.gralak.com/apdriver
Author of PulseGuide: http://www.pulseguide.com
Author of Sigma: http://www.gralak.com/sigma

-----Original Message-----
From: ap-gto@... [mailto:ap-gto@...]
Sent: Sunday, November 19, 2017 10:48 PM
To: ap-gto@...
Subject: [ap-gto] Re: APCC "Enable Pointing/Tracking Correction" turning on by itself



When it happened I was not touching the PC, in fact, a few times it happened when I was inside.




Is there anything in the log file that would indicate what's turning them on? Or that indicates when they are on
versus off?




Eric



Re: APCC "Enable Pointing/Tracking Correction" turning on by itself

Eric Claeys
 

When it happened I was not touching the PC, in fact, a few times it happened when I was inside.


Is there anything in the log file that would indicate what's turning them on?  Or that indicates when they are on versus off?


Eric


Re: I am back inaging after 18 months!!!!

Stuart Heggie <stuart.j.heggie@...>
 

Peter - that is interesting. I would have expected the same result you expected. I went in the opposite direction with an STL11000 I had for a while (my second one in fact). I put 'E' series filters in it despite the general advice to use 'I' series filters. That is why I asked Don about them. He said many people go with the 'E' series in the STL (and similar) cameras because the reds are richer but you have to expose longer to compensate for the narrower bandpass and the weak red response of the chip. I was quite happy with the results but didn't have a fair comparison. My first STL had Gen I Baader filters (the ones with the terrible reflections / halos). And it was long ago.

Stuart

On Sun, Nov 19, 2017 at 8:37 PM, pnagy@... [ap-gto] <ap-gto@...> wrote:
 

Hi Stuart,

Thanks for the kind words. I feel really good right now and not taking any more treatments or medicines for the past 8 months.

Yeah, I was aware of the different bandwidths in I-Series and E-Series Red filters and I was surprised the sky background levels were similar because I-Series has wider Red bandwidth than E-Series Red filter. I bought the I-Series filters after owning E-Series filters for a while and was hoping to have nearly equal sky background levels for same sub and total exposures for all filters. Blue and Green filters have almost identical sky background levels but Red has about half the intensity.


Peter

---In ap-gto@..., wrote :

Peter - first, I'm sorry to hear you were ill but glad you're in remission (I googled it per your comment - wow!). 

This M33 looks great! Nice job! I really like it. I just got an 814 chip camera and like you, I'm impressed by the low noise.

BTW - Don Goldman told me the only difference between the 'I' and 'E' series filters is the width of the red band. For a galaxy I suspect they'd perform pretty similarly.

Stuart

On Sun, Nov 19, 2017 at 8:04 PM, pnagy@... [ap-gto] <ap-gto@...> wrote:
 

Hi,

I am back imaging after 18 months. Two reasons. One was the weather has been horrible and the other I was diagnosed with an autoimmune disease called TTP (please do a Google search) which was attacking my healthy platelet cells but I have been in remission for 8 months since I received treatment. It was very difficult to be motivated in this hobby and thinking about this awful disease but I am finally feeling good.

This is M33 Triangulum Galaxy. This is my first time imaging with Lum filter and it works very well. I have a TEC 140 APO scope and usually don't image with Lum filter because I was getting pretty big star bloats due to the scope not perfectly correcting blue light. Eventually I found out that TEC makes a great Field Flattener that actually does a wonderful job of correcting blue light. I do not understand why TEC does not advertise their FF correcting blue light. Anyway, here are the details:

High resolution image at: https://peternagy.smugmug.com/ Telescopes/Galaxies/i-CsFnV6r/ A

This was taken from my light polluted backyard in Reno, NV. Used A-P1100GTO mount and it worked flawlessly with SGP automation software and PHD2 guiding. Total of 72 subs captured and not one sub was thrown out.

M33 Triangulum Galaxy. RGB + Luminance. 0.93"/pixel image scale.

Astrodon Red filter,  12 x 5 minutes, 1x1. 11/17/2017.
Astrodon Green filter, 12 x 5 minutes, 1x1. 11/17/2017.
Astrodon Blue filter, 12 x 5 minutes, 1x1. 11/17/2017.
Astrodon Lum filter, 36 x 5 minutes, 1x1. 11/17/2017.

TEC 140 APO F/7 with TEC Field Flattener, Astro-Physics A-P1100GTO GEM. QSI660wsg. OAG and Ultrastar autoguider, Optec Handy Stepper Motor focuser. Captured and automated with SGP. Calibration (including Dark Subtraction) and Post-processed with PixInsight. PHD2 settings: RA Aggressiveness: 60, RA Hysteresis: 10, Max RA/Dec Duration: 2000, Min Move: 0.45, Calibration Steps: 250msec, Auto/Resist Switching, 1 sec guiding exposure.

I am pretty happy with the results. At first I didn't want to image because it was pretty cold outside but the forecast for the next few days was not promising so I imaged M33 last night. It was one of the better nights, the seeing was not spectacular but it was not bad. FWHM varied between 2" and 3". Here are the best FWHM details for each filter:

Red: 2.640"
Green: 2.074"
Blue: 2.325"
Lum: 2.428"

Using Unihedron sky quality device, the sky quality was 19.13 mags/arsec squared.

No dithering because I felt my Sony ICX-694 CCD QSI camera has super low dark current and very little to no FPN. Guiding was fantastic that at first I accidentally didn't do Star Alignments before stacking and didn't notice bad stacking but I re-did stacking anyway by doing Star Alignments first.

Since Declination of M33 (30 degrees) was lower than my local latitude (almost 40 degrees), Meridian flipping was not necessary.

I was using Astrodon I-Series filters instead of the recommended E-Series filters for Sony ICX-XXX CCDs. I have both sets of filters and this was my first time using I-Series filters and I could not tell much difference between I-Series and E-Series filters.

Thanks for reading my long post.

Peter





--





Re: I am back inaging after 18 months!!!!

topboxman
 

Hi Stuart,

Thanks for the kind words. I feel really good right now and not taking any more treatments or medicines for the past 8 months.

Yeah, I was aware of the different bandwidths in I-Series and E-Series Red filters and I was surprised the sky background levels were similar because I-Series has wider Red bandwidth than E-Series Red filter. I bought the I-Series filters after owning E-Series filters for a while and was hoping to have nearly equal sky background levels for same sub and total exposures for all filters. Blue and Green filters have almost identical sky background levels but Red has about half the intensity.

Peter

---In ap-gto@..., <stuart.j.heggie@...> wrote :

Peter - first, I'm sorry to hear you were ill but glad you're in remission (I googled it per your comment - wow!). 

This M33 looks great! Nice job! I really like it. I just got an 814 chip camera and like you, I'm impressed by the low noise.

BTW - Don Goldman told me the only difference between the 'I' and 'E' series filters is the width of the red band. For a galaxy I suspect they'd perform pretty similarly.

Stuart

On Sun, Nov 19, 2017 at 8:04 PM, pnagy@... [ap-gto] <ap-gto@...> wrote:
 

Hi,

I am back imaging after 18 months. Two reasons. One was the weather has been horrible and the other I was diagnosed with an autoimmune disease called TTP (please do a Google search) which was attacking my healthy platelet cells but I have been in remission for 8 months since I received treatment. It was very difficult to be motivated in this hobby and thinking about this awful disease but I am finally feeling good.

This is M33 Triangulum Galaxy. This is my first time imaging with Lum filter and it works very well. I have a TEC 140 APO scope and usually don't image with Lum filter because I was getting pretty big star bloats due to the scope not perfectly correcting blue light. Eventually I found out that TEC makes a great Field Flattener that actually does a wonderful job of correcting blue light. I do not understand why TEC does not advertise their FF correcting blue light. Anyway, here are the details:

High resolution image at: https://peternagy.smugmug.com/ Telescopes/Galaxies/i-CsFnV6r/ A

This was taken from my light polluted backyard in Reno, NV. Used A-P1100GTO mount and it worked flawlessly with SGP automation software and PHD2 guiding. Total of 72 subs captured and not one sub was thrown out.

M33 Triangulum Galaxy. RGB + Luminance. 0.93"/pixel image scale.

Astrodon Red filter,  12 x 5 minutes, 1x1. 11/17/2017.
Astrodon Green filter, 12 x 5 minutes, 1x1. 11/17/2017.
Astrodon Blue filter, 12 x 5 minutes, 1x1. 11/17/2017.
Astrodon Lum filter, 36 x 5 minutes, 1x1. 11/17/2017.

TEC 140 APO F/7 with TEC Field Flattener, Astro-Physics A-P1100GTO GEM. QSI660wsg. OAG and Ultrastar autoguider, Optec Handy Stepper Motor focuser. Captured and automated with SGP. Calibration (including Dark Subtraction) and Post-processed with PixInsight. PHD2 settings: RA Aggressiveness: 60, RA Hysteresis: 10, Max RA/Dec Duration: 2000, Min Move: 0.45, Calibration Steps: 250msec, Auto/Resist Switching, 1 sec guiding exposure.

I am pretty happy with the results. At first I didn't want to image because it was pretty cold outside but the forecast for the next few days was not promising so I imaged M33 last night. It was one of the better nights, the seeing was not spectacular but it was not bad. FWHM varied between 2" and 3". Here are the best FWHM details for each filter:

Red: 2.640"
Green: 2.074"
Blue: 2.325"
Lum: 2.428"

Using Unihedron sky quality device, the sky quality was 19.13 mags/arsec squared.

No dithering because I felt my Sony ICX-694 CCD QSI camera has super low dark current and very little to no FPN. Guiding was fantastic that at first I accidentally didn't do Star Alignments before stacking and didn't notice bad stacking but I re-did stacking anyway by doing Star Alignments first.

Since Declination of M33 (30 degrees) was lower than my local latitude (almost 40 degrees), Meridian flipping was not necessary.

I was using Astrodon I-Series filters instead of the recommended E-Series filters for Sony ICX-XXX CCDs. I have both sets of filters and this was my first time using I-Series filters and I could not tell much difference between I-Series and E-Series filters.

Thanks for reading my long post.

Peter





--


Re: I am back inaging after 18 months!!!!

Stuart Heggie <stuart.j.heggie@...>
 

Peter - first, I'm sorry to hear you were ill but glad you're in remission (I googled it per your comment - wow!). 

This M33 looks great! Nice job! I really like it. I just got an 814 chip camera and like you, I'm impressed by the low noise.

BTW - Don Goldman told me the only difference between the 'I' and 'E' series filters is the width of the red band. For a galaxy I suspect they'd perform pretty similarly.

Stuart

On Sun, Nov 19, 2017 at 8:04 PM, pnagy@... [ap-gto] <ap-gto@...> wrote:
 

Hi,

I am back imaging after 18 months. Two reasons. One was the weather has been horrible and the other I was diagnosed with an autoimmune disease called TTP (please do a Google search) which was attacking my healthy platelet cells but I have been in remission for 8 months since I received treatment. It was very difficult to be motivated in this hobby and thinking about this awful disease but I am finally feeling good.

This is M33 Triangulum Galaxy. This is my first time imaging with Lum filter and it works very well. I have a TEC 140 APO scope and usually don't image with Lum filter because I was getting pretty big star bloats due to the scope not perfectly correcting blue light. Eventually I found out that TEC makes a great Field Flattener that actually does a wonderful job of correcting blue light. I do not understand why TEC does not advertise their FF correcting blue light. Anyway, here are the details:

High resolution image at: https://peternagy.smugmug.com/Telescopes/Galaxies/i-CsFnV6r/A

This was taken from my light polluted backyard in Reno, NV. Used A-P1100GTO mount and it worked flawlessly with SGP automation software and PHD2 guiding. Total of 72 subs captured and not one sub was thrown out.

M33 Triangulum Galaxy. RGB + Luminance. 0.93"/pixel image scale.

Astrodon Red filter,  12 x 5 minutes, 1x1. 11/17/2017.
Astrodon Green filter, 12 x 5 minutes, 1x1. 11/17/2017.
Astrodon Blue filter, 12 x 5 minutes, 1x1. 11/17/2017.
Astrodon Lum filter, 36 x 5 minutes, 1x1. 11/17/2017.

TEC 140 APO F/7 with TEC Field Flattener, Astro-Physics A-P1100GTO GEM. QSI660wsg. OAG and Ultrastar autoguider, Optec Handy Stepper Motor focuser. Captured and automated with SGP. Calibration (including Dark Subtraction) and Post-processed with PixInsight. PHD2 settings: RA Aggressiveness: 60, RA Hysteresis: 10, Max RA/Dec Duration: 2000, Min Move: 0.45, Calibration Steps: 250msec, Auto/Resist Switching, 1 sec guiding exposure.

I am pretty happy with the results. At first I didn't want to image because it was pretty cold outside but the forecast for the next few days was not promising so I imaged M33 last night. It was one of the better nights, the seeing was not spectacular but it was not bad. FWHM varied between 2" and 3". Here are the best FWHM details for each filter:

Red: 2.640"
Green: 2.074"
Blue: 2.325"
Lum: 2.428"

Using Unihedron sky quality device, the sky quality was 19.13 mags/arsec squared.

No dithering because I felt my Sony ICX-694 CCD QSI camera has super low dark current and very little to no FPN. Guiding was fantastic that at first I accidentally didn't do Star Alignments before stacking and didn't notice bad stacking but I re-did stacking anyway by doing Star Alignments first.

Since Declination of M33 (30 degrees) was lower than my local latitude (almost 40 degrees), Meridian flipping was not necessary.

I was using Astrodon I-Series filters instead of the recommended E-Series filters for Sony ICX-XXX CCDs. I have both sets of filters and this was my first time using I-Series filters and I could not tell much difference between I-Series and E-Series filters.

Thanks for reading my long post.

Peter






I am back inaging after 18 months!!!!

topboxman
 

Hi,

I am back imaging after 18 months. Two reasons. One was the weather has been horrible and the other I was diagnosed with an autoimmune disease called TTP (please do a Google search) which was attacking my healthy platelet cells but I have been in remission for 8 months since I received treatment. It was very difficult to be motivated in this hobby and thinking about this awful disease but I am finally feeling good.

This is M33 Triangulum Galaxy. This is my first time imaging with Lum filter and it works very well. I have a TEC 140 APO scope and usually don't image with Lum filter because I was getting pretty big star bloats due to the scope not perfectly correcting blue light. Eventually I found out that TEC makes a great Field Flattener that actually does a wonderful job of correcting blue light. I do not understand why TEC does not advertise their FF correcting blue light. Anyway, here are the details:

High resolution image at: https://peternagy.smugmug.com/Telescopes/Galaxies/i-CsFnV6r/A

This was taken from my light polluted backyard in Reno, NV. Used A-P1100GTO mount and it worked flawlessly with SGP automation software and PHD2 guiding. Total of 72 subs captured and not one sub was thrown out.

M33 Triangulum Galaxy. RGB + Luminance. 0.93"/pixel image scale.

Astrodon Red filter,  12 x 5 minutes, 1x1. 11/17/2017.
Astrodon Green filter, 12 x 5 minutes, 1x1. 11/17/2017.
Astrodon Blue filter, 12 x 5 minutes, 1x1. 11/17/2017.
Astrodon Lum filter, 36 x 5 minutes, 1x1. 11/17/2017.

TEC 140 APO F/7 with TEC Field Flattener, Astro-Physics A-P1100GTO GEM. QSI660wsg. OAG and Ultrastar autoguider, Optec Handy Stepper Motor focuser. Captured and automated with SGP. Calibration (including Dark Subtraction) and Post-processed with PixInsight. PHD2 settings: RA Aggressiveness: 60, RA Hysteresis: 10, Max RA/Dec Duration: 2000, Min Move: 0.45, Calibration Steps: 250msec, Auto/Resist Switching, 1 sec guiding exposure.

I am pretty happy with the results. At first I didn't want to image because it was pretty cold outside but the forecast for the next few days was not promising so I imaged M33 last night. It was one of the better nights, the seeing was not spectacular but it was not bad. FWHM varied between 2" and 3". Here are the best FWHM details for each filter:

Red: 2.640"
Green: 2.074"
Blue: 2.325"
Lum: 2.428"

Using Unihedron sky quality device, the sky quality was 19.13 mags/arsec squared.

No dithering because I felt my Sony ICX-694 CCD QSI camera has super low dark current and very little to no FPN. Guiding was fantastic that at first I accidentally didn't do Star Alignments before stacking and didn't notice bad stacking but I re-did stacking anyway by doing Star Alignments first.

Since Declination of M33 (30 degrees) was lower than my local latitude (almost 40 degrees), Meridian flipping was not necessary.

I was using Astrodon I-Series filters instead of the recommended E-Series filters for Sony ICX-XXX CCDs. I have both sets of filters and this was my first time using I-Series filters and I could not tell much difference between I-Series and E-Series filters.

Thanks for reading my long post.

Peter



Re: A-P Mach1 First Use in 10 Years - Concerns?

C. G. Anderson
 

Personally, I would not do a thing other than use it. CG


A-P Mach1 First Use in 10 Years - Concerns?

Tom Wade
 

Hi.  I just purchased a 2007 A-P Mach1.  The original owner had never used it so it is in immaculate and new condition!  My question is, should I do anything to it since it was stored (indoors) all those years?  I'm thinking the grease may need to be changed?

 

I did give it a good function test and it operates smooth as butter.  I'm just not sure if I should break the rule of "if it ain't broke, don't fix it".


I updated the firmware on the CP3 and HC already.  I need to look at the chip also to see which version it is.

 

It is my first non-Celestron mount so I'm not as familiar with preventative maintenance on these mounts.

 

Thanks.


Re: Connection to 1100 dropped

Worsel
 

Thanks, Ray!

I will make the change and post here.

Bryan


---In ap-gto@..., <groups3@...> wrote :

Hi Bryan,

The log file doesn't provide any information why the "connection" started to time out. I put "connection" in quotes because when APCC doesn't establish a single long lasting TCP connection, but a new TCP connection every request to the mount.

So, this could have been a hardware error or a resource issue in your computer's TCP stack. You might try connecting via UDP instead as it does not need to create a new connection every command request.

Best regards,

-Ray Gralak
Author of APCC (Astro-Physics Command Center): http://www.astro-physics.com/index.htm?products/accessories/software/apcc/apcc
Author of PEMPro: http://www.ccdware.com
Author of Astro-Physics V2 ASCOM Driver: http://www.gralak.com/apdriver
Author of PulseGuide: http://www.pulseguide.com
Author of Sigma: http://www.gralak.com/sigma


> -----Original Message-----
> From: ap-gto@... [mailto:ap-gto@...]
> Sent: Saturday, November 18, 2017 9:46 PM
> To: ap-gto@...
> Subject: [ap-gto] Connection to 1100 dropped
>
>
>
> After running for almost three hours without incident, the connection from APCC to the 1100 dropped. Was
> able to reconnect manually in APCC, Park, and re-start. Still lost some images.
>
>
>
>
> The logfile is in Dropbox at
>
>
>
>
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/n2w86yt7gn309uv/APCC-2017-11-18-185622.txt?dl=0
>
>
>
>
> The drop is shortly after step 0359029 at time 21:51:06.242
>
>
>
>
>
> This has happened before, intermittently. That suggests an erratic connection (cable, port ?) somewhere.
>
>
>
>
> I use TCP LAN to connect APCC to my PC.
>
>
>
>
> Any insight is appreciated.
>
>
>
>
> Bryan
>
>
>
>


Re: Connection to 1100 dropped

Ray Gralak
 

Hi Bryan,

The log file doesn't provide any information why the "connection" started to time out. I put "connection" in quotes because when APCC doesn't establish a single long lasting TCP connection, but a new TCP connection every request to the mount.

So, this could have been a hardware error or a resource issue in your computer's TCP stack. You might try connecting via UDP instead as it does not need to create a new connection every command request.

Best regards,

-Ray Gralak
Author of APCC (Astro-Physics Command Center): http://www.astro-physics.com/index.htm?products/accessories/software/apcc/apcc
Author of PEMPro: http://www.ccdware.com
Author of Astro-Physics V2 ASCOM Driver: http://www.gralak.com/apdriver
Author of PulseGuide: http://www.pulseguide.com
Author of Sigma: http://www.gralak.com/sigma

-----Original Message-----
From: ap-gto@... [mailto:ap-gto@...]
Sent: Saturday, November 18, 2017 9:46 PM
To: ap-gto@...
Subject: [ap-gto] Connection to 1100 dropped



After running for almost three hours without incident, the connection from APCC to the 1100 dropped. Was
able to reconnect manually in APCC, Park, and re-start. Still lost some images.




The logfile is in Dropbox at




https://www.dropbox.com/s/n2w86yt7gn309uv/APCC-2017-11-18-185622.txt?dl=0




The drop is shortly after step 0359029 at time 21:51:06.242





This has happened before, intermittently. That suggests an erratic connection (cable, port ?) somewhere.




I use TCP LAN to connect APCC to my PC.




Any insight is appreciated.




Bryan




Connection to 1100 dropped

Worsel
 

After running for almost three hours without incident, the connection from APCC to the 1100 dropped.  Was able to reconnect manually in APCC, Park, and re-start.  Still lost some images.


The logfile is in Dropbox at


 https://www.dropbox.com/s/n2w86yt7gn309uv/APCC-2017-11-18-185622.txt?dl=0


The drop is shortly after step 0359029 at time 21:51:06.242


This has happened before, intermittently.  That suggests an erratic connection (cable, port ?) somewhere.


I use TCP LAN to connect APCC to my PC.


Any insight is appreciated.


Bryan

 


Re: APCC Won't Auto Shutdown After APV2 Driver Quits

Ray Gralak
 

How should I handle this situation?
Doing this kind of shutdown is not "clean" no matter how you look at it. If you set the driver's connection count to zero you are "pulling the rug out" from underneath whatever applications are connected via the driver. Some apps would likely crash or throw an exception because of that.

However, I think I explained how to make APCC exit cleanly -- i.e. do not connect APCC to the driver. Then, when you set the driver's connection count to zero APCC will exit if auto-shutdown is enabled in APCC's advanced settings. I'm sorry if that was not clear in my earlier response.

-Ray Gralak
Author of APCC (Astro-Physics Command Center): http://www.astro-physics.com/index.htm?products/accessories/software/apcc/apcc
Author of PEMPro: http://www.ccdware.com
Author of Astro-Physics V2 ASCOM Driver: http://www.gralak.com/apdriver
Author of PulseGuide: http://www.pulseguide.com
Author of Sigma: http://www.gralak.com/sigma

-----Original Message-----
From: ap-gto@... [mailto:ap-gto@...]
Sent: Saturday, November 18, 2017 1:39 PM
To: ap-gto@...
Subject: [ap-gto] Re: APCC Won't Auto Shutdown After APV2 Driver Quits



Hi Ray,

So you are saying I should not set the APV2 driver client count = 0 and if all the applications behave correctly
and release the APV2 driver then APCC should shut down?

Since the script I am writing is basically a contingency script for closing everything down after a problem or
weather induced closure, I have to assume that one or more applications may not have behaved correctly and
didn't release the driver. How should I handle this situation?

Thanks,
Kerry


Re: APCC Won't Auto Shutdown After APV2 Driver Quits

Kerry Williams
 

Hi Ray,

So you are saying I should not set the APV2 driver client count = 0 and if all the applications behave correctly and release the APV2 driver then APCC should shut down? 

Since the script I am writing is basically a contingency script for closing everything down after a problem or weather induced closure, I have to assume that one or more applications may not have behaved correctly and didn't release the driver. How should I handle this situation? 

Thanks,
Kerry


Re: Help, my mount thinks it's in the wrong hemisphere

Marcelo Figueroa
 

Thank you for your prompt response. 

I was finally able to solve the problem by installing APCC and creating a new location from there and then initializing the mount.

For anyone interested, this is the screenshot showing the error: