Date   

MACH1GTO Gear Mesh Question

gary imm
 

Since I had a bit of looseness in both axes, I just gear meshed my MACH1GTO for the first time.   I tried to follow the instructions exactly - "Apply a SLIGHT pressure to the Lever Assembly".  I then checked the gearbox and the gears turned easily (I marked the RA gears so that I could retain my PEC curve).  But when I starting guiding the next night with PHD2, it consistently took 4-5 pulses before the mount would respond in either axis.  So I did the gear  mesh again, but this time applied slightly more pressure to the lever assembly.  The gears didn't turn quite as easily, but still turned smoothly.  Guiding was then much better, with the mount generally responding to single pulses each time.


My question is precisely how much pressure should I be applying during a gear mesh?  I pride myself in following instructions, but in this case I feel that I have a better guiding result by applying slightly more pressure during the gear meshing than is recommended.


Thanks,

Gary


Re: AP going to Winter Star party

 

I see. We are providing door prizes. George will bring them. I know that the raffles are always very exciting and much appreciated.

 

I don’t see where the door prizes are listed on their site. I must be missing something.

 

Clear Skies,

 

Marj Christen

Astro-Physics, Inc

11250 Forest Hills Rd

Machesney Park, IL 61115

Phone: 815-282-1513

Fax: 815-282-9847

www.astro-physics.com

 

From: ap-gto@... [mailto:ap-gto@...]
Sent: Tuesday, February 14, 2017 3:10 PM
To: ap-gto@...
Subject: Re: [ap-gto] AP going to Winter Star party

 

 

If you go to WSP site. They have sponsors that raffle off door prizes. Meade used to do it but drop out Explore Scientific and a few others still do. Good way to get your name out there. -Mike

 

On Monday, February 13, 2017 8:32 PM, "Marj marj@... [ap-gto]" <ap-gto@...> wrote:

 

 

Sponsor who?

 

Clear Skies,

 

Marj Christen

Astro-Physics, Inc

11250 Forest Hills Rd

Machesney Park, IL 61115

Phone: 815-282-1513

Fax: 815-282-9847

 

From: ap-gto@... [mailto:ap-gto@...]
Sent: Monday, February 13, 2017 5:01 PM
To: ap-gto@...
Subject: Re: [ap-gto] AP going to Winter Star party

 

 

Why don't you sponsor them? 

 

 

On Monday, February 13, 2017 4:34 PM, "Marj marj@... [ap-gto]" <ap-gto@...> wrote:

 

 

Hi all,

 

George will be headed to the Winter Star Party in a few days. He is taking a 1600GTO with his 305 Honders and is hoping for some clear skies to do some imaging. It has been cloudy here for weeks.

 

Be sure that you stop by to say hello and ask any questions about our mount, APCC or other products. Since he’ll be using APCC, he can demonstrate various features for you.

 

Who else is going????

 

Clear Skies,

 

Marj Christen

Astro-Physics, Inc

11250 Forest Hills Rd

Machesney Park, IL 61115

Phone: 815-282-1513

Fax: 815-282-9847

 

 

 


Re: Anyone have a GTOCP3 for sale?

Christopher Erickson
 

LOL - I TOLD you this forum was the best place to find a used CP3!
 
 
Christopher Erickson
Consulting Engineer
Summit Kinetics
Waikoloa, HI 96738
www.summitkinetics.com
 



From: ap-gto@... [mailto:ap-gto@...]
Sent: Tuesday, February 14, 2017 4:59 PM
To: ap-gto@...
Subject: [ap-gto] Re: Anyone have a GTOCP3 for sale?

Thank you for all the replies. I received an offer within a half hour of posting this request. I am currently in conversation with one of the users of this forum. I will contact the really courteous folks on this forum if for some reason that sale does not come to pass. Thank you for taking the time to write.

Ajay




Re: Loosening Saddle Plate Knobs

gary imm
 

Woody, thanks, those are both useful suggestions and I will check into it.

Gary


Re: Loosening Saddle Plate Knobs

Woody Schlom <woody@...>
 

Gary,
 
As I suggested in my previous message:
 
1) Ask Howard if you can buy knobs with the Allen key hex sockets and install them in your saddle.
 
2) Buy the longer AP saddle.  That's what I did and not only does it have the Allen key socket knobs, but it just plain works a lot better.
 
Woody
 

 

Guys,


I can't thank all of you enough for the excellent suggestions.  Well, except that I should use an allen wrench.  I was so excited with that suggestion that I ran out to look at my scope, and then sadly discovered that the knobs are just knobs.  Oh well. Sure seems like the option to use a hex key would have been great and easy to manufacture.

Now, on to do some experimenting!

Thanks,
Gary


Re: Loosening Saddle Plate Knobs

gary imm
 

Guys,

I can't thank all of you enough for the excellent suggestions.  Well, except that I should use an allen wrench.  I was so excited with that suggestion that I ran out to look at my scope, and then sadly discovered that the knobs are just knobs.  Oh well. Sure seems like the option to use a hex key would have been great and easy to manufacture.

Now, on to do some experimenting!

Thanks,
Gary


Re: AP Mother board heating up

Suresh Mohan
 

Hi Rolando ,
                The heat sink screws are not loose , they are firmly fixed . 
Suresh


On 15-Feb-2017, at 5:00 AM, Suresh Mohan Neelmegh <drsureshmohan@...> wrote:

Ok Rolando , I will check , thank you for your valuable input .
Regards
Suresh


On 15-Feb-2017, at 4:00 AM, chris1011@... [ap-gto] <ap-gto@...> wrote:

 

Remove the cover plate from the front of the CP controller and look inside. Make sure that the power transistors are attached to the side of the box via the Phillips screws that attach their tabs. The aluminum box is the heatsink for these power devices, but if for some reason the screw got loose (high vibration could loosen them) the transistors would get warmer than usual. They will not fail in any way since they have internal thermal overload protection, so don't get all worried. But it might explain extra heat if it is not due to hard mesh on the worm (which I suspect was the actual problem).

Normally the CP controller box will get warm when running at the sidereal rate. You can check the current draw from the 12 volt power source with a cheap and cheerful line ammeter, available at most electronic stores. Normal current draw is around 1/3 to 1/2 amp when it is just tracking, may go to 1.5 amps with both axes slewing.

Rolando




-----Original Message-----
From: Suresh Mohan Neelmegh drsureshmohan@... [ap-gto] <ap-gto@...>
To: ap-gto <ap-gto@...>
Sent: Tue, Feb 14, 2017 4:02 pm
Subject: Re: [ap-gto] Re: AP Mother board heating up



Thanks Joe ,
     Will keep an eye 
Suresh


On 15-Feb-2017, at 12:56 AM, 'Joseph Zeglinski' J.Zeglinski@... [ap-gto] <ap-gto@...> wrote:

 
Suresh,
 
    Hope you find the cause of any “OVER” heating, but there is a positive benefit from some slight heating inside its case, such as you found in the motherboard’s idle mode. When you had to operate the mount controller at your recent high altitude site, at night and –20C, at least the quiescent heating kept the internal electronics operating in their normal room temperature state. Other electronics might have shut down in such cold.
 
    Don’t recall if there is any provision to completely idle the (DEC) servo motor, but I assume it keeps itself warm by just its motor coils doing “station-keeping”. Of course, the RA servo is always tracking so it shouldn’t get sluggish even in very extreme cold.
 
    I assume the gear lubricants are in good condition. Perhaps a short blast of a suitable dry silicone spray directly on the worm and its worm wheel might indicate some improvement in tests. Even the AeroSHELL-33 oil “separates out”  from its binding with the lube grease component,  after aging 4 years – the warranty period for that product fresh grease. Not likely the cause here, but your operating or storage environmental conditions may have pushed the limits. However this is stretch, as this is “aircraft lube”, is designed for flying in high altitude cold and desert heat.
 
Joe



Re: Anyone have a GTOCP3 for sale?

ajynrynn@...
 

Thank you for all the replies. I received an offer within a half hour of posting this request. I am currently in conversation with one of the users of this forum. I will contact the really courteous folks on this forum if for some reason that sale does not come to pass. Thank you for taking the time to write.

Ajay




Re: AP Mother board heating up

Suresh Mohan
 

Ok Rolando , I will check , thank you for your valuable input .
Regards
Suresh


On 15-Feb-2017, at 4:00 AM, chris1011@... [ap-gto] <ap-gto@...> wrote:

 

Remove the cover plate from the front of the CP controller and look inside. Make sure that the power transistors are attached to the side of the box via the Phillips screws that attach their tabs. The aluminum box is the heatsink for these power devices, but if for some reason the screw got loose (high vibration could loosen them) the transistors would get warmer than usual. They will not fail in any way since they have internal thermal overload protection, so don't get all worried. But it might explain extra heat if it is not due to hard mesh on the worm (which I suspect was the actual problem).

Normally the CP controller box will get warm when running at the sidereal rate. You can check the current draw from the 12 volt power source with a cheap and cheerful line ammeter, available at most electronic stores. Normal current draw is around 1/3 to 1/2 amp when it is just tracking, may go to 1.5 amps with both axes slewing.

Rolando




-----Original Message-----
From: Suresh Mohan Neelmegh drsureshmohan@... [ap-gto] <ap-gto@...>
To: ap-gto <ap-gto@...>
Sent: Tue, Feb 14, 2017 4:02 pm
Subject: Re: [ap-gto] Re: AP Mother board heating up



Thanks Joe ,
     Will keep an eye 
Suresh


On 15-Feb-2017, at 12:56 AM, 'Joseph Zeglinski' J.Zeglinski@... [ap-gto] <ap-gto@...> wrote:

 
Suresh,
 
    Hope you find the cause of any “OVER” heating, but there is a positive benefit from some slight heating inside its case, such as you found in the motherboard’s idle mode. When you had to operate the mount controller at your recent high altitude site, at night and –20C, at least the quiescent heating kept the internal electronics operating in their normal room temperature state. Other electronics might have shut down in such cold.
 
    Don’t recall if there is any provision to completely idle the (DEC) servo motor, but I assume it keeps itself warm by just its motor coils doing “station-keeping”. Of course, the RA servo is always tracking so it shouldn’t get sluggish even in very extreme cold.
 
    I assume the gear lubricants are in good condition. Perhaps a short blast of a suitable dry silicone spray directly on the worm and its worm wheel might indicate some improvement in tests. Even the AeroSHELL-33 oil “separates out”  from its binding with the lube grease component,  after aging 4 years – the warranty period for that product fresh grease. Not likely the cause here, but your operating or storage environmental conditions may have pushed the limits. However this is stretch, as this is “aircraft lube”, is designed for flying in high altitude cold and desert heat.
 
Joe



Re: AP Mother board heating up

Roland Christen
 

Remove the cover plate from the front of the CP controller and look inside. Make sure that the power transistors are attached to the side of the box via the Phillips screws that attach their tabs. The aluminum box is the heatsink for these power devices, but if for some reason the screw got loose (high vibration could loosen them) the transistors would get warmer than usual. They will not fail in any way since they have internal thermal overload protection, so don't get all worried. But it might explain extra heat if it is not due to hard mesh on the worm (which I suspect was the actual problem).

Normally the CP controller box will get warm when running at the sidereal rate. You can check the current draw from the 12 volt power source with a cheap and cheerful line ammeter, available at most electronic stores. Normal current draw is around 1/3 to 1/2 amp when it is just tracking, may go to 1.5 amps with both axes slewing.

Rolando



-----Original Message-----
From: Suresh Mohan Neelmegh drsureshmohan@... [ap-gto]
To: ap-gto
Sent: Tue, Feb 14, 2017 4:02 pm
Subject: Re: [ap-gto] Re: AP Mother board heating up



Thanks Joe ,
     Will keep an eye 
Suresh


On 15-Feb-2017, at 12:56 AM, 'Joseph Zeglinski' J.Zeglinski@... [ap-gto] <ap-gto@...> wrote:

 
Suresh,
 
    Hope you find the cause of any “OVER” heating, but there is a positive benefit from some slight heating inside its case, such as you found in the motherboard’s idle mode. When you had to operate the mount controller at your recent high altitude site, at night and –20C, at least the quiescent heating kept the internal electronics operating in their normal room temperature state. Other electronics might have shut down in such cold.
 
    Don’t recall if there is any provision to completely idle the (DEC) servo motor, but I assume it keeps itself warm by just its motor coils doing “station-keeping”. Of course, the RA servo is always tracking so it shouldn’t get sluggish even in very extreme cold.
 
    I assume the gear lubricants are in good condition. Perhaps a short blast of a suitable dry silicone spray directly on the worm and its worm wheel might indicate some improvement in tests. Even the AeroSHELL-33 oil “separates out”  from its binding with the lube grease component,  after aging 4 years – the warranty period for that product fresh grease. Not likely the cause here, but your operating or storage environmental conditions may have pushed the limits. However this is stretch, as this is “aircraft lube”, is designed for flying in high altitude cold and desert heat.
 
Joe



Re: Loosening Saddle Plate Knobs

John
 

A quick, at hand, substitute for the pliers etc. is an electric cord. The (old?) heavy, round rubber ones usually work best, but the flat plastic type will often do, particularly on knurled knobs. Unplug the cord!!! Wrap one turn around the knob and use it as a strap wrench. Inspect the cord for damage before use.

John


Re: Loosening Saddle Plate Knobs

 

Gary,
I have a pair of these, and while I don't use them on the saddle plate knobs I'm sure they would work

https://www.amazon.com/Crescent-52910N-Connector-Pliers-10-Inch/dp/B00170RES8

also, if you do a search on amazon for "rubber jaw pliers" or something like that you will likely find some other options.  It looks like Craftsman makes a 10 piece pliers cover set as well as some other options.

BTW
(my saddle plate has the allen wrench socket... and I really liked the idea of painting the wrenches with a bright color!)

Steve H


Re: Loosening Saddle Plate Knobs

Christopher Erickson
 

I work on a lot of scope and mounts.  I take care of most of the scopes in our local club as well as the Onizuka VIS scopes as well as a number of professional observatories and I have to say that my two small rubberized strap wrenches get used a LOT.  Everything from diagonals, knobs, eyepieces, focusers, etc.  They work great and don't damage the finish.
 
 
Christopher Erickson
Consulting Engineer
Summit Kinetics
Waikoloa, HI 96738
www.summitkinetics.com
 



From: ap-gto@... [mailto:ap-gto@...]
Sent: Tuesday, February 14, 2017 10:35 AM
To: ap-gto@...
Subject: RE: [ap-gto] Loosening Saddle Plate Knobs

Gary,
 
When I started reading these posts and suggestions I couldn't believe what I was seeing.  I mean, what's the problem?  If one of the knobs is too tight, you just pull out the appropriate long-handled hex-key or Allen Wrench and loosen it.  Big deal.  The AP Mach1 manual even mentions this -- and AP even included a nice set of Bondhus wrenches.
 
I was in the process of writing a smart-a__ post about this when my atrophying brain said "Better check your Mach1 before shooting off your mouth."
 
My Mach1 is currently all packed up and hard to get at, so I pulled out my field setup photos.  And there in gorgeous ink-jet color was my saddle plate showing its three tightening knobs -- each one with with a hex key socket in the middle -- just as I thought -- and just like the Mach1 clutch knobs.  No problem, just use a long handled hex key.
 
And then that same age-addled brain said, "Hey Woody, you're now using the longer saddle plate with three knobs because you hated the original short one with just two knobs.  Maybe that short one is this DOVELM2 saddle Gary is talking about.  And maybe it doesn't have those nice knobs with the hex-key sockets."
 
I never throw anything out, so I rummaged around and found my original saddle plate.  Son-of-a-gun, it has two knobs and neither one has those hex-key sockets!
 
I think most of the suggestions you got were good and workable -- particularly the small strap-wrench suggestion.  But if I were you, I'd also ask Howard if it's possible to buy a couple of the nice (and I thought standard) AP knobs with the hex-key socket in the middle and substitute those for the ones that you have.  These would be similar to the Mach1 clutch knobs.
 
The answer will probably be NO, but it doesn't hurt to ask. 
 
One of the things I didn't like about that little dovetail plate were the just two knobs and the tiny little brass wedge thingies on their ends that tighten down and hold your scope to the mount.  The longer optional plate I bought not only has three knobs and dovetail locks, but the dovetail locks themselves are very large machined and spring-loaded things that really work well.  And each of the three knobs has that hex-key socket.
 
If all else fails, you might consider the longer dovetail plate with the three dovetail locks -- and three knobs with the hex-key centers.
 
Woody
 
 
  -----Original Message-----
From: ap-gto@... [mailto:ap-gto@...]
Sent: Tuesday, February 14, 2017 5:45 AM
To: ap-gto@...
Subject: [ap-gto] Loosening Saddle Plate Knobs

 

I have a MACH1GTO with the DOVELM2 saddle plate,  At the end of the night, especially if it is cold, I have a tough time loosening the two saddle plate knobs to release the scope.  Perhaps it is because I have big old fingers, or maybe I just tighten them too much at the start of the night.  


Does anyone else have the same problem, and are there innovative ways to easily loosen them?


Thanks,

Gary


Re: AP Mother board heating up

Suresh Mohan
 

Thanks Joe ,
     Will keep an eye 
Suresh


On 15-Feb-2017, at 12:56 AM, 'Joseph Zeglinski' J.Zeglinski@... [ap-gto] <ap-gto@...> wrote:

 

Suresh,
 
    Hope you find the cause of any “OVER” heating, but there is a positive benefit from some slight heating inside its case, such as you found in the motherboard’s idle mode. When you had to operate the mount controller at your recent high altitude site, at night and –20C, at least the quiescent heating kept the internal electronics operating in their normal room temperature state. Other electronics might have shut down in such cold.
 
    Don’t recall if there is any provision to completely idle the (DEC) servo motor, but I assume it keeps itself warm by just its motor coils doing “station-keeping”. Of course, the RA servo is always tracking so it shouldn’t get sluggish even in very extreme cold.
 
    I assume the gear lubricants are in good condition. Perhaps a short blast of a suitable dry silicone spray directly on the worm and its worm wheel might indicate some improvement in tests. Even the AeroSHELL-33 oil “separates out”  from its binding with the lube grease component,  after aging 4 years – the warranty period for that product fresh grease. Not likely the cause here, but your operating or storage environmental conditions may have pushed the limits. However this is stretch, as this is “aircraft lube”, is designed for flying in high altitude cold and desert heat.
 
Joe


Re: AP going to Winter Star party

MCDERMOTT MICHAEL <wildwood7711@...>
 

If you go to WSP site. They have sponsors that raffle off door prizes. Meade used to do it but drop out Explore Scientific and a few others still do. Good way to get your name out there. -Mike


On Monday, February 13, 2017 8:32 PM, "Marj marj@... [ap-gto]" wrote:


 
Sponsor who?
 
Clear Skies,
 
Marj Christen
Astro-Physics, Inc
11250 Forest Hills Rd
Machesney Park, IL 61115
Phone: 815-282-1513
Fax: 815-282-9847
www.astro-physics.com
 
From: ap-gto@... [mailto:ap-gto@...]
Sent: Monday, February 13, 2017 5:01 PM
To: ap-gto@...
Subject: Re: [ap-gto] AP going to Winter Star party
 
 
Why don't you sponsor them? 
 
 
On Monday, February 13, 2017 4:34 PM, "Marj marj@... [ap-gto]" <ap-gto@...> wrote:
 
 
Hi all,
 
George will be headed to the Winter Star Party in a few days. He is taking a 1600GTO with his 305 Honders and is hoping for some clear skies to do some imaging. It has been cloudy here for weeks.
 
Be sure that you stop by to say hello and ask any questions about our mount, APCC or other products. Since he’ll be using APCC, he can demonstrate various features for you.
 
Who else is going????
 
Clear Skies,
 
Marj Christen
Astro-Physics, Inc
11250 Forest Hills Rd
Machesney Park, IL 61115
Phone: 815-282-1513
Fax: 815-282-9847
 
 



Re: Loosening Saddle Plate Knobs

Woody Schlom <woody@...>
 

Gary,
 
When I started reading these posts and suggestions I couldn't believe what I was seeing.  I mean, what's the problem?  If one of the knobs is too tight, you just pull out the appropriate long-handled hex-key or Allen Wrench and loosen it.  Big deal.  The AP Mach1 manual even mentions this -- and AP even included a nice set of Bondhus wrenches.
 
I was in the process of writing a smart-a__ post about this when my atrophying brain said "Better check your Mach1 before shooting off your mouth."
 
My Mach1 is currently all packed up and hard to get at, so I pulled out my field setup photos.  And there in gorgeous ink-jet color was my saddle plate showing its three tightening knobs -- each one with with a hex key socket in the middle -- just as I thought -- and just like the Mach1 clutch knobs.  No problem, just use a long handled hex key.
 
And then that same age-addled brain said, "Hey Woody, you're now using the longer saddle plate with three knobs because you hated the original short one with just two knobs.  Maybe that short one is this DOVELM2 saddle Gary is talking about.  And maybe it doesn't have those nice knobs with the hex-key sockets."
 
I never throw anything out, so I rummaged around and found my original saddle plate.  Son-of-a-gun, it has two knobs and neither one has those hex-key sockets!
 
I think most of the suggestions you got were good and workable -- particularly the small strap-wrench suggestion.  But if I were you, I'd also ask Howard if it's possible to buy a couple of the nice (and I thought standard) AP knobs with the hex-key socket in the middle and substitute those for the ones that you have.  These would be similar to the Mach1 clutch knobs.
 
The answer will probably be NO, but it doesn't hurt to ask. 
 
One of the things I didn't like about that little dovetail plate were the just two knobs and the tiny little brass wedge thingies on their ends that tighten down and hold your scope to the mount.  The longer optional plate I bought not only has three knobs and dovetail locks, but the dovetail locks themselves are very large machined and spring-loaded things that really work well.  And each of the three knobs has that hex-key socket.
 
If all else fails, you might consider the longer dovetail plate with the three dovetail locks -- and three knobs with the hex-key centers.
 
Woody
 
 
  -----Original Message-----

From: ap-gto@... [mailto:ap-gto@...]
Sent: Tuesday, February 14, 2017 5:45 AM
To: ap-gto@...
Subject: [ap-gto] Loosening Saddle Plate Knobs

 

I have a MACH1GTO with the DOVELM2 saddle plate,  At the end of the night, especially if it is cold, I have a tough time loosening the two saddle plate knobs to release the scope.  Perhaps it is because I have big old fingers, or maybe I just tighten them too much at the start of the night.  


Does anyone else have the same problem, and are there innovative ways to easily loosen them?


Thanks,

Gary


Re: Sensor/switch to Verify Mount is Parked

Lee
 

i use the same sensors SECO-LAM (Seco-Larm E-931-S35RRQ Enforcer Indoor/Outdoor Wall Mounted Photoelectric Beam Sensor with 35 Foot Range) as Dan.  Also, on an MVO controls roof system.    

your control will be different but the principle is the reflector can be used to make or break the circuit.  you want to set it up in series with your power supply to your roof motor and only when the circuit is "made" (reflector mounted on the scope is bouncing back the beam from the transmitter mounted on the wall) will you roof motor have power.   

one interesting "gotcha" i recently experienced however, the scope parked on a beautiful clear morning but the roof didn't close -- went out to the observatory and found the reflector frosted over :-o

i need to construct a little "dew shield" around it i think to prevent a recurrence.  :-)


Re: Sensor/switch to Verify Mount is Parked

Steve Reilly
 

I'm guessing that you use a Foster Systems roof controller board maybe and would be referring to the AtPark feature? For me I used two long lever arm micro switches held in place by silicon, one for each axis, wired in series going back to the AtPark connection. The lever arm is activated by means of a teflon pad cut to a house shape where the "roof" peak trips the contact when parked. The teflon pads are held in place by a spot of silicon. Very simple design and can be moved easily to use any of the "Park" positions. You could also make a velcro strap to hold both switches and reference activators (teflon). Has worked great for my for many years. The roof can't move unless both switches are made and the signal is being sent. It's the same concept as ohming a wire, the resistance indicates continuity signaling that both switches, wired on normally open contacts) are closed and the mount is parked. And then of course Stan sells these sensors as well. See http://www.fostersystems.com/viewitem.php?productid=85

Steve


Re: Sensor/switch to Verify Mount is Parked

Dan Simpson
 

I used these for my roll-off: Seco-Larm
Seco-Larm E-931-S35RRQ Enforcer Indoor/Outdoor Wall Mounted Photoelectric Beam Sensor with 35 Foot Range (2 Pack)

Got them from Amazon. Works great with my MVO opener



On Feb 14, 2017 10:55 AM, "yesavage@... [ap-gto]" <ap-gto@...> wrote:
 

Hi,

I have a Mach 1 and a Pier Tech Roll off Roof system with motorized pier.  I have the pier-tech equipment working but trying to find a way to put a mechanical senor/switch on the Mach 1 to verify the mount is parked.  There is an input to the pier/roof controller that can verify it is parked before lowering the pier and closing the roof. 

Has anyone hooked such a sensor up to an AP mount?????

I sorta see how I could do it, but do not want to re-invent the wheel if someone has done this already. 




Re: AP Mother board heating up

Joe Zeglinski
 

Suresh,
 
    Hope you find the cause of any “OVER” heating, but there is a positive benefit from some slight heating inside its case, such as you found in the motherboard’s idle mode. When you had to operate the mount controller at your recent high altitude site, at night and –20C, at least the quiescent heating kept the internal electronics operating in their normal room temperature state. Other electronics might have shut down in such cold.
 
    Don’t recall if there is any provision to completely idle the (DEC) servo motor, but I assume it keeps itself warm by just its motor coils doing “station-keeping”. Of course, the RA servo is always tracking so it shouldn’t get sluggish even in very extreme cold.
 
    I assume the gear lubricants are in good condition. Perhaps a short blast of a suitable dry silicone spray directly on the worm and its worm wheel might indicate some improvement in tests. Even the AeroSHELL-33 oil “separates out”  from its binding with the lube grease component,  after aging 4 years – the warranty period for that product fresh grease. Not likely the cause here, but your operating or storage environmental conditions may have pushed the limits. However this is stretch, as this is “aircraft lube”, is designed for flying in high altitude cold and desert heat.
 
Joe