Date   

Re: solar filters

Mike Shade
 

Thanks...but a wedge would not allow any photography/imaging and is more than I want to spend on something that will not get used much.



Thank you



Mike J. Shade: mshade@q.com

Mike J. Shade Photography:

mshadephotography.com



In War: Resolution

In Defeat: Defiance

In Victory: Magnanimity

In Peace: Goodwill

Sir Winston Churchill

Already, in the gathering dusk, a few of the stars are turning on their lights.

Vega, the brightest one, is now dropping towards the west. Can it be half

a year since I watched her April rising in the east? Low in the southwest

Antares blinks a sad farwell to fall...

Leslie Peltier, Starlight Nights



International Dark Sky Association: <http://www.darksky.org/> www.darksky.org



From: ap-gto@... [mailto:ap-gto@...]
Sent: Wednesday, April 06, 2016 4:36 AM
To: ap-gto@...
Subject: Re: [ap-gto] solar filters





A Herschel Wedge! Baader or Lunt. I've used them on my AP scopes with great success. The solar load on a quality refractor is no problem so long as the scope has front lens elements only. You'll get unbelievable views with your 160 and a wedge. Make sure to get a 2" model and to use additional ND filters for visual. The Baader comes as a kit with everything you need.



Of course you can only use a wedge with a refractor!



-Craig
On Apr 5, 2016, at 11:41 PM, 'Mike Shade' mshade@q.com [ap-gto] <ap-gto@...> wrote:



Curious as to what solar filters folks have found to be good...I was thinking of a Thousand Oaks glass filter for the 160 EDF...anyone have one for use with this scope...what size fits properly...?



Mike J. Shade: mshade@q.com

Mike J. Shade Photography:

mshadephotography.com



In War: Resolution

In Defeat: Defiance

In Victory: Magnanimity

In Peace: Goodwill

Sir Winston Churchill

Already, in the gathering dusk, a few of the stars are turning on their lights.

Vega, the brightest one, is now dropping towards the west. Can it be half

a year since I watched her April rising in the east? Low in the southwest

Antares blinks a sad farwell to fall...

Leslie Peltier, Starlight Nights



International Dark Sky Association: www.darksky.org <http://www.darksky.org/>


Re: solar filters

Craig Anderson
 

Good point on the backfocus. Both my AP155 and 130 GTO have plenty of backfocus for my 2" Baader wedge. My previous AP130 f6 also had plenty of backfocus. TeleVue scopes I've had in the past did not have have enough backfocus for a 2" wedge but we're fine for a 1.25" one. Personally, I wouldn't use a 1.25" wedge with more that 4" of aperture. 

Craig


On Apr 6, 2016, at 9:14 AM, erik.pylyser@... [ap-gto] <ap-gto@...> wrote:

 

Hi,

I'd suggest as a (cheaper) still-quite-good alternative:


Two versions: one for visual, one for photography...

The wedges are a bit better, but... be aware of the potential problem of backfocus with the wedges... check your system's focus distances before buying... ;-)

Don't go for glass filters...

Erik.


From: "Craig craig@... [ap-gto]" <ap-gto@...>
To: ap-gto@...
Sent: Wednesday, April 6, 2016 1:35:34 PM
Subject: Re: [ap-gto] solar filters

 


A Herschel Wedge! Baader or Lunt. I've used them on my AP scopes with great success.  The solar load on a quality refractor is no problem so long as the scope has front lens elements only.  You'll get unbelievable views with your 160 and a wedge. Make sure to get a 2" model and to use additional ND filters for visual. The Baader comes as a kit with everything you need. 

Of course you can only use a wedge with a refractor!

-Craig


On Apr 5, 2016, at 11:41 PM, 'Mike Shade' mshade@q.com [ap-gto] <ap-gto@...> wrote:

 


Curious as to what solar filters folks have found to be good...I was thinking of a Thousand Oaks glass filter for the 160 EDF...anyone have one for use with this scope...what size fits properly...?

 

Mike J. Shade: mshade@q.com

Mike J. Shade Photography:

mshadephotography.com

 

In War: Resolution

In Defeat: Defiance

In Victory: Magnanimity

In Peace: Goodwill

Sir Winston Churchill

Already, in the gathering dusk, a few of the stars are turning on their lights.

Vega, the brightest one, is now dropping towards the west.  Can it be half

a year since I watched her April rising in the east?  Low in the southwest

Antares blinks a sad farwell to fall...

Leslie Peltier, Starlight Nights

 

International Dark Sky Association: www.darksky.org

 





Re: solar filters

erik.pylyser@...
 

Hi,

I'd suggest as a (cheaper) still-quite-good alternative:


Two versions: one for visual, one for photography...

The wedges are a bit better, but... be aware of the potential problem of backfocus with the wedges... check your system's focus distances before buying... ;-)

Don't go for glass filters...

Erik.


From: "Craig craig@... [ap-gto]"
To: ap-gto@...
Sent: Wednesday, April 6, 2016 1:35:34 PM
Subject: Re: [ap-gto] solar filters

 


A Herschel Wedge! Baader or Lunt. I've used them on my AP scopes with great success.  The solar load on a quality refractor is no problem so long as the scope has front lens elements only.  You'll get unbelievable views with your 160 and a wedge. Make sure to get a 2" model and to use additional ND filters for visual. The Baader comes as a kit with everything you need. 

Of course you can only use a wedge with a refractor!

-Craig


On Apr 5, 2016, at 11:41 PM, 'Mike Shade' mshade@q.com [ap-gto] <ap-gto@...> wrote:

 


Curious as to what solar filters folks have found to be good...I was thinking of a Thousand Oaks glass filter for the 160 EDF...anyone have one for use with this scope...what size fits properly...?

 

Mike J. Shade: mshade@q.com

Mike J. Shade Photography:

mshadephotography.com

 

In War: Resolution

In Defeat: Defiance

In Victory: Magnanimity

In Peace: Goodwill

Sir Winston Churchill

Already, in the gathering dusk, a few of the stars are turning on their lights.

Vega, the brightest one, is now dropping towards the west.  Can it be half

a year since I watched her April rising in the east?  Low in the southwest

Antares blinks a sad farwell to fall...

Leslie Peltier, Starlight Nights

 

International Dark Sky Association: www.darksky.org

 





Re: solar filters

Craig Anderson
 

A Herschel Wedge! Baader or Lunt. I've used them on my AP scopes with great success.  The solar load on a quality refractor is no problem so long as the scope has front lens elements only.  You'll get unbelievable views with your 160 and a wedge. Make sure to get a 2" model and to use additional ND filters for visual. The Baader comes as a kit with everything you need. 

Of course you can only use a wedge with a refractor!

-Craig


On Apr 5, 2016, at 11:41 PM, 'Mike Shade' mshade@q.com [ap-gto] <ap-gto@...> wrote:

 

Curious as to what solar filters folks have found to be good...I was thinking of a Thousand Oaks glass filter for the 160 EDF...anyone have one for use with this scope...what size fits properly...?

 

Mike J. Shade: mshade@q.com

Mike J. Shade Photography:

mshadephotography.com

 

In War: Resolution

In Defeat: Defiance

In Victory: Magnanimity

In Peace: Goodwill

Sir Winston Churchill

Already, in the gathering dusk, a few of the stars are turning on their lights.

Vega, the brightest one, is now dropping towards the west.  Can it be half

a year since I watched her April rising in the east?  Low in the southwest

Antares blinks a sad farwell to fall...

Leslie Peltier, Starlight Nights

 

International Dark Sky Association: www.darksky.org

 


extending Keypad Serial cable CABK9S15

Lee
 

I realize most of the A-P crew is at NEAF but I thought I would try this question here in case they check in.  


Setting up my AP1600GTO-AE. I want to run the serial cable about 25ft from the GTOCP3 keypad connector to the computer.  


Is there a 25ft version of the keypad receptacle cable?


Alternately,  can I connect the 15ft CABSER15 that I am not using on the AE serial port (since I replaced it with a 25ft cable) as an extension of the keypad cable.  Other than the connectors won’t secure to each other without a coupler, is there any problem extending the keypad serial cable with the CABSER15?

 

I will put a coupler in between them to be sure the connection is secure since I am fishing the serial line through a conduit.


Thoughts appreciated. 


Lee



SkyX Pro and Windows 10 and Mach 1

doug789@...
 

Hi,


Newbie here...


I have a Mach 1 running with CP3 and a USB-Serial interface to a Dell with Windows 10. I've got an active com port and can control the mount with SkyX Pro. I am trying to get the Ascom interface working, so I've got .net current, the 6.2 platform installed, the V2X driver installed and just downloaded and installed the Ascom 2X Mount Adapter from Software Bisque.


Problem: I can't find the V2X Mount in the choose dialog, so I still have my non-Ascom interface.


Ideas?


Thanks - Doug


solar filters

Mike Shade
 

Curious as to what solar filters folks have found to be good...I was thinking of a Thousand Oaks glass filter for the 160 EDF...anyone have one for use with this scope...what size fits properly...?

 

Mike J. Shade: mshade@q.com

Mike J. Shade Photography:

mshadephotography.com

 

In War: Resolution

In Defeat: Defiance

In Victory: Magnanimity

In Peace: Goodwill

Sir Winston Churchill

Already, in the gathering dusk, a few of the stars are turning on their lights.

Vega, the brightest one, is now dropping towards the west.  Can it be half

a year since I watched her April rising in the east?  Low in the southwest

Antares blinks a sad farwell to fall...

Leslie Peltier, Starlight Nights

 

International Dark Sky Association: www.darksky.org

 


Using pointing in APCC pointing model app

cluster@...
 

I could not get this to  work so I called.   A lot of app's you put in the unbinned image scale and it uses the bin selected to correct it when plate solve.   this does not do that, you choose the bin and then  have to figure out the image scale.  (easy to do really)


The test button does not work unless you have the settings in plate correct, I guess it is there to verify you entered them correctly.  


I add on the phone call they might want to may that clear on the plate solve settings tab  (you must put in image scale that you have set in the camera settings for bin)


The drop down for the file to test with is FIT   My maxim Dl is saving as FTS, so I pick all files.  I would suggest that you add add options,  FIT;FTS;SBIG  whatever.   Easy to set really since it is using the open dialog in windows I suspect


So will try it again tonight


Re: Strange Slewing Behavior with APCC meridian limits.

Ray Gralak
 

Wayne,

Yes, that can happen under certain circumstances if a move is more than about 1 degree. Apcc was playing it safe by approaching the target in RA only.

-Ray Gralak
Author of APCC (Astro-Physics Command Center): http://www.astro-physics.com/index.htm?products/accessories/software/apcc/apcc
Author of PEMPro: http://www.ccdware.com
Author of Astro-Physics V2 ASCOM Driver: http://www.gralak.com/apdriver
Author of PulseGuide: http://www.pulseguide.com
Author of Sigma: http://www.gralak.com/sigma

-----Original Message-----
From: ap-gto@... [mailto:ap-gto@...]
Sent: Monday, April 4, 2016 6:45 PM
To: ap-gto@...
Subject: [ap-gto] Strange Slewing Behavior with APCC meridian limits.



I've been getting comfortable with using APCC meridian settings, tracking Jupiter with
CW up so as to track it further before being obstructed by my roofline for example.
Last night, I was doing something similar with the Leo triplet. After completing that
session, I wanted to slew to a nearby object, only a degree or two away. The mount
slewed to the west side of the mount as if to point in the normal way, with CW down. I
was about to stop it, But to my surprise, it stopped, slewed back the other direction,
and pointed with counterweights up as I'd expected. Is this an expected behavior?


Strange Slewing Behavior with APCC meridian limits.

Wayne Hixson
 

I've been getting comfortable with using APCC meridian settings, tracking Jupiter with CW up so as to track it further before being obstructed by my roofline for example. Last night, I was doing something similar with the Leo triplet. After completing that session, I wanted to slew to a nearby object, only a degree or two away. The mount slewed to the west side of the mount as if to point in the normal way, with CW down. I was about to stop it, But to my surprise, it stopped, slewed back the other direction, and pointed with counterweights up as I'd expected. Is this an expected behavior?


Re: Polar Alignment/RAPAS

Joel Short
 

The only situation where a great polar alignment is necessary vs. just a good polar alignment is when imaging the same target (or a multi-panel mosaic) over the course of a few months.  An average polar alignment can introduce rotation over a long time.  This was the case for me last winter when I did an 8 panel mosaic of Orion over the course of 4 months. 
joel

On Mon, Apr 4, 2016 at 6:16 PM, binkersnot@... [ap-gto] <ap-gto@...> wrote:
 

That's very good alignment.

In the past I obsessed way too much on getting the most perfect polar alignment possible, wasting way too much valuable time under clear skies.  I've now come to appreciate that, for most of the time, when I dial in Polaris using the RAPAS, the polar alignment is fine for imaging even at a 2000 mm FL with auto-guiding and, as far as I can tell, up to 10 minute subs.

I have not yet tested longer subs, but if I determine drift aligning is necessary, I will add that to my procedure, and here again I will fight the urge to obsess over it.  Probably one iteration would be sufficient to achieve longer subs, if I even need to drift align at all.

Note that there is also a school of thought that auto-guiding with PHD actually works a little bit better when polar alignment is just a little bit off.  I don't know what a little bit is, but I would imagine a couple of arc minutes or maybe even a little more is probably tolerated.  This allows for there to be just a little but of drift to give PHD a slight preference in motion.

This last statement may be controversial, but in my own experience I've found a few arc-minutes of polar misalignment to be tolerable.

Ben



Re: Polar Alignment/RAPAS

binkersnot@...
 

That's very good alignment.

In the past I obsessed way too much on getting the most perfect polar alignment possible, wasting way too much valuable time under clear skies.  I've now come to appreciate that, for most of the time, when I dial in Polaris using the RAPAS, the polar alignment is fine for imaging even at a 2000 mm FL with auto-guiding and, as far as I can tell, up to 10 minute subs.

I have not yet tested longer subs, but if I determine drift aligning is necessary, I will add that to my procedure, and here again I will fight the urge to obsess over it.  Probably one iteration would be sufficient to achieve longer subs, if I even need to drift align at all.

Note that there is also a school of thought that auto-guiding with PHD actually works a little bit better when polar alignment is just a little bit off.  I don't know what a little bit is, but I would imagine a couple of arc minutes or maybe even a little more is probably tolerated.  This allows for there to be just a little but of drift to give PHD a slight preference in motion.

This last statement may be controversial, but in my own experience I've found a few arc-minutes of polar misalignment to be tolerable.

Ben


Re: RAPAS - Off Axis Mounting for Mounts without Polar Scope "Hole"

binkersnot@...
 

Frank:

I see no reason why this couldn't be done with some construction work and careful adjustments on your part.  I would imagine in the end the procedure would end up being very similar to installing, calibrating and using it on an AP mount.

I'm not familiar with the Parallax GEM, but I would recommend that you construct a bracket that is solidly attached to the mount's base.  By base I mean a part of the mount that does not rotate around either the DEC or RA axes but will move as you adjust altitude and azimuth.  This would be key, and if you can't make the RAPAS rigid to this part of the mount, it won't work for you.  The bracket itself may need to be removable, however, if you find that it may get in the way of the scope as it rotates around the axes.

One idea would be to purchase the connector plate from AP for, say, the Mach1GTO.  Make this part of your construction, where the connector plate is firmly attached to this bracket in such a way that the scope could then be slipped in and out when you wish to polar align.  The RAPAS would attach to this, and the plate has adjustment screws that would allow you to calibrate the connector plate so that the scope slips in and attaches in a repeatable fashion.  Ultimately you want the scope's reticle to be repeatably in the right orientation with respect to the mount so that when you bring Polaris to the right spot on the grid you are very close to being polar aligned.  This would need to be calibrated first.

Sounds like a good idea.  I enjoy using my RAPAS and just recently recalibrated it for use, and I was able to dial in very decent alignment that, even using a focal length of almost 2000mm, I did not find it necessary to follow up with more precise drift alignment.

Best Regards,
Ben


Re: ASCOM beta issue-incorrect longitude site setting E/W

Joel Short
 

This issue isn't defining a site.  I've had my sites defined and saved for months now.  In the screenshot I blacked out the numerical site coordinates so all you hooligans didn't know where I live :)
What happens is that one night I'll connect the mount and it will be perfectly fine.  The next night I'll connect and it will say E instead of W.  So I'll go in and change it back to W and it will stick for the next few connection cycles, then it will change to E somehow.  It happens very randomly.
joel




Re: ASCOM beta issue-incorrect longitude site setting E/W

Joe Zeglinski
 

Joel,
 
    Just a shot in the dark, but when you defined the observatory location “HOME” did you have the lat & long entered already? Sometimes defining a “new” location, can be sequence dependent. I think I once made that mistake, by setting the coordinates, then clicking new for a new name. Not quite sure.
 
    Try redefining HOME, make sure the coordinates are set as required, then (finally) click on SAVE, or whatever completes the process. Really, I can’t see in your screen shot, how both coordinates are missing (blanks) and yet the observatory Name “HOME”  is present.
 
Joe


Re: ASCOM beta issue-incorrect longitude site setting E/W

Joel Short
 

Yeah I know a screenshot doesn't help with fixing it.  I'm glad to provide logs or anything else if it is helpful.  
joel

On Mon, Apr 4, 2016 at 3:43 PM, 'Ray Gralak (Groups)' groups3@... [ap-gto] <ap-gto@...> wrote:
 

Hi Joel,

Unfortunately a screen shot doesn't help at all as it gives no indication how it got that way. That said, Howard at AP created a bug ticket for this a few days back. I spent a number hours over the weekend trying to reproduce it to no avail. The code to save and restore "E"/:"W" is very simple so unless I can actually find an iron clad way to reproduce it there is not much I can do to fix it. :-(

-Ray Gralak
Author of APCC (Astro-Physics Command Center): http://www.astro-physics.com/index.htm?products/accessories/software/apcc/apcc
Author of PEMPro: http://www.ccdware.com
Author of Astro-Physics V2 ASCOM Driver: http://www.gralak.com/apdriver
Author of PulseGuide: http://www.pulseguide.com
Author of Sigma: http://www.gralak.com/sigma

> -----Original Message-----
> From: ap-gto@... [mailto:ap-gto@...]
> Sent: Monday, April 4, 2016 11:49 AM
> To: ap-gto@...
> Subject: [ap-gto] ASCOM beta issue-incorrect longitude site setting E/W
>
>
>
> I have noticed that sometimes the ASCOM beta (currently 5.08.05) does not
> keep the site setting for E/W in the Longitude field. When I open
> Telescope Setup, the numerical site coordinates are correct, but sometimes
> it is set to "E" instead of "W":
>
> ​
> Am I misunderstanding something here? It seems to me that since my
> physical location doesn't change the direction E/W shouldn't change in the
> setup. This has occurred enough times that I always check it before
> connecting the mount.
> joel
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>



Re: ASCOM beta issue-incorrect longitude site setting E/W

Ray Gralak
 

Hi Joel,

Unfortunately a screen shot doesn't help at all as it gives no indication how it got that way. That said, Howard at AP created a bug ticket for this a few days back. I spent a number hours over the weekend trying to reproduce it to no avail. The code to save and restore "E"/:"W" is very simple so unless I can actually find an iron clad way to reproduce it there is not much I can do to fix it. :-(

-Ray Gralak
Author of APCC (Astro-Physics Command Center): http://www.astro-physics.com/index.htm?products/accessories/software/apcc/apcc
Author of PEMPro: http://www.ccdware.com
Author of Astro-Physics V2 ASCOM Driver: http://www.gralak.com/apdriver
Author of PulseGuide: http://www.pulseguide.com
Author of Sigma: http://www.gralak.com/sigma

-----Original Message-----
From: ap-gto@... [mailto:ap-gto@...]
Sent: Monday, April 4, 2016 11:49 AM
To: ap-gto@...
Subject: [ap-gto] ASCOM beta issue-incorrect longitude site setting E/W



I have noticed that sometimes the ASCOM beta (currently 5.08.05) does not
keep the site setting for E/W in the Longitude field. When I open
Telescope Setup, the numerical site coordinates are correct, but sometimes
it is set to "E" instead of "W":


Am I misunderstanding something here? It seems to me that since my
physical location doesn't change the direction E/W shouldn't change in the
setup. This has occurred enough times that I always check it before
connecting the mount.
joel

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




Re: ASCOM beta issue-incorrect longitude site setting E/W

Joel Short
 

So apparently inserted images don't come through.  Here's a link to the Telescope Setup dialogue:
joel


ASCOM beta issue-incorrect longitude site setting E/W

Joel Short
 

I have noticed that sometimes the ASCOM beta (currently 5.08.05) does not
keep the site setting for E/W in the Longitude field. When I open
Telescope Setup, the numerical site coordinates are correct, but sometimes
it is set to "E" instead of "W":


Am I misunderstanding something here? It seems to me that since my
physical location doesn't change the direction E/W shouldn't change in the
setup. This has occurred enough times that I always check it before
connecting the mount.
joel


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: CP4 slew limits question

fjabet@...
 

Up for this question. Frédéric.