Date   

600E Counterweight Shaft - Update

paul_schroeder@...
 

Hi all -

As a follow up to my issue last weekend (the counterweight shaft on my new 600E
GTO seemed too wide on one end), I talked with AP on Monday and they immediately
sent out a new shaft. The new one arrived today and works fine, confirming that
the original shaft was too wide at the non-threaded end. On the new one, the
counterweight slips on with no problem.

The response from AP was terrific; as usual, they were ready and willing to do
whatever it takes. Thanks AP! Now if only the clouds would clear . . .

Best regards,

Paul Schroeder


Re: Replacement azimuth clamps for 600E series

SteppZimmr@...
 

Thanks again, Ron. Please let us know how the new handles work out when you
have a chance. I am following you modifications with great interest. I have
just joined this group. Are there any previous modifications I missed?

Peter


Egroups Downtime

Derek Wong <dawong@...>
 

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Re: New member: AP GTO on Parallax mount

Mike Mah
 

Hi Steve,

It is my impression that the AP GTO on the Parallax implements the same
software as with the AP mounts. Keypad controller and control panel
should be the same except that the control panel on the 125 is not
built into the mount but is in a little pouch which one hangs from one
of the bolts on the equatorial head. Joe Nastasi of Parallax says that
the same servo motors are used.

With the few times I have used the mount, it seems sturdy and solid
enough. It tracks fine for visual purposes but I have yet to do drift
alignment. One of these days, I'll learn how to use my CCD camera and
take some pictures.

The gears on the motors are exposed, so I have to be careful that
cables don't get caught in them. The clutches are of the knob kind and
do not completely lock the axes as they still can be moved by hand,
although I suspect that this by design.

Mike Mah


"steve leikind" <sleikin-@visi.com> wrote:
original article:http://www.egroups.com/group/ap-gto/?start=459
Mike:

I am afraid I cannot help, but it sounds like you are getting useful
information form others on this list. I am curious if you have any
general impressions you can share on the Parallax implementation of
the
AP Goto. This is the only company other than AP itself, that uses the
AP GOTO with its mounts. Also, what do you think about the Parallax
mount itself? Sounds like you have a lot of stuff on their given the
size of the 125 though the 1200 you have on order should handle this
easily. Any comments on tracking, stability etc. of the 125? Thanks.

-Steve


Re: Replacement azimuth clamps for 600E series

David A. Silva <dasilva@...>
 

Hi Ron

User suggested improvements - from the current metal motor covers to
the lever handles on the tripods. - were the source of many updates to
the GM8 and G11 mounts. There is always someone out there who conceives
an elegant improvement to a product(g).

-David

PS: Another thanks and kudos for your own improvements!

On Mon, 27 Mar 2000 13:17:48 -0800, Ron Wodaski wrote:

I can understand the logic behind wanting to put something out the door that
is affordable and supportable; makes sense to me -- you can't possibly make
a perfect anything; everyone has different ways of working. It's fun, though
to come up with alternate solutions so that different folks can choose what
works best for them. After all, even very high-end automobiles are always
getting customized; that's part of the fun. <g>


Re: New member: AP GTO on Parallax mount

Mike Mah
 

Hi Charles,

Yes, my problems are likely from sloppy initial setup.

On my GTO, the hand controller plugs into the GTO control panel
(GTOCP2) which is portable and in its own little pouch and not built
into the mount, as I believe it is on the AP mounts. This control panel
accepts RS232 input from other programs and I have used Digital
SkyVoice with it (at home anyways).

Thanks,

Mike Mah

"charles sinsofsky" <strfir-@attglobal.net> wrote:
original article:http://www.egroups.com/group/ap-gto/?start=456
OK, hello,

One last note, inside the mount itself is more code, above and
beyound
that what is in the hand controller, sometimes it is possible
depending on
your code base, I do not know what code would be in a paralex 'bought
the
a/p goto system' e-prom code base, the hand controller first decides
if it
is safe to move to an object, the code there will say 'fine' and send
the
mount the ra/dec cords though it is possible that the mount itself
will
refuse. this is a safety feature built into the code base in the mount
because not everyone uses the mount with a hand controller. remember
the a/p
goto system can be used directly from a p.c. if the given computer
program
being used did not check for horizon it could technically inform the
mount
to move the scope into the pier...we placed in additional checks for
horizon
to compensate for just that type of case. this code has over time
been even
more refined, so because of this, I am not sure what level of code
would be
in your given gto system, as opposed to the latest and greatest one
in a
given a/p gto mount right now.

But I would not worry about it...really..

- Charles Sinsofsky
Author: DigitalSky Voice, and contributor to the A/P mount GTO
system.
www.digitalskyvoice.com
email: strfire@attglobal.net

----- Original Message -----
From: Mike Mah <mikemah@attglobal.net>
To: <ap-gto@eGroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, March 26, 2000 9:58 AM
Subject: [ap-gto] New member: AP GTO on Parallax mount


Hello everybody,

I've just joined and I find these postings useful and informative. I
hope I can find help for some questions:

I have an AP155 EDFS with piggybacked Tak FSQ106 on a pier mounted
Parallax Series 125 with AP GTO v2.6. I have acquired these recently
and have only used this setup a few times, so that I have more
equipment than experience. I am waiting for an AP1200 mount, to
which I
will move the AP155.

With mount level and after proper polar alignment using the Polaris
routine, I have noticed that occasionally objects are indicated as
below the horizon when they are not. For example, last night at
about
9:30 pm the Orion Nebula was indicated to be below the horizon when
it
was not, and I could goto Betelgeuse. Did I miss something in the
manual on the GTO keypad controller about the horizon?

When I tried to goto M81, I had to stop the slewing as the scope was
going to hit the pier. What angle does the safety zone number (0-20)
refer to? Degrees from the polar axis so that the safety zone is a
cone
(or circle on the sky)? Is this then a blind spot that the scope
can't
access?

Thanks,

Mike Mah




Re: 600E Goto

Rich N. <rnapo@...>
 

Hi all:

My new 600E GOTO arrived this morning! I then spent the pm reading the
instructions and then phoning Christine at AP for an answer to a very
stupid question on my part. Don't ask - it was really, really
stupid!!!! But she is a very nice lady to talk to. And very
understanding.

Congratulations!

I'm glad Christine could get away from making a
big pot of focuser grease to answer your question. ;-)

Rich




Now for a clear night!

I think that a pier will be on the list next. Are they making more any
time soon I wonder?

Chris. Spratt


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600E Goto

Chris Spratt
 

Hi all:

My new 600E GOTO arrived this morning! I then spent the pm reading the
instructions and then phoning Christine at AP for an answer to a very
stupid question on my part. Don't ask - it was really, really
stupid!!!! But she is a very nice lady to talk to. And very
understanding.

Now for a clear night!

I think that a pier will be on the list next. Are they making more any
time soon I wonder?

Chris. Spratt


Re: Replacement azimuth clamps for 600E series

Ron Wodaski <ronw@...>
 

Thanks for the numbers of the side bolts. For myself, I never lay the mount
down, so I'd like to get some knobs on the side that can be tightened by
hand. The zinc will corrode a bit, but not in a messy way, and the ones I
purchased have steel inserts for the threads, so I don't have to worry about
them binding after a few dewy nights. It won't bother me if I have to change
them out after a couple of years.

I can understand the logic behind wanting to put something out the door that
is affordable and supportable; makes sense to me -- you can't possibly make
a perfect anything; everyone has different ways of working. It's fun, though
to come up with alternate solutions so that different folks can choose what
works best for them. After all, even very high-end automobiles are always
getting customized; that's part of the fun. <g>

I've written a number of books on technical subjects for general audiences,
so I guess you could say I have explaining things in my blood. <g> It's just
something I love to do. I like to see explanations that work for the
broadest possible range of folks. It's challenging to put aside one's own
assumptions and write with your audience uppermost in your mind, but that's
really the best way to convey technical information. Being objective about
your assumptions is also difficult, but necessary.

I know that you are looking for someone onsite for your technical
writer/customer service job. I am interested in pursuing this, but would
have to think about relocation.

Ron Wodaski

-----Original Message-----
From: Marj [mailto:astrophy@pair.com]
Sent: Monday, March 27, 2000 12:54 PM
To: ap-gto@egroups.com
Subject: [ap-gto] Re: Replacement azimuth clamps for 600E series


Ron,
You are full of good ideas and your explanations are very clear (looking for
a technical writer/customer service job?). The side bolts on the 600E mount
are M12x1.75P. An alternate supplier is Reid Tool Supply Co.
Phone:1-800-253-0421 (at least as of 1997). We have provided them to several
people in northern latitudes since the normal knob would be in the way. I
don't know the exact part number.

We did consider this type of handle a couple of years ago, but did not add
them as a standard item to the mount for several reasons:
The stainless handles are very expensive, but less expensive ones would
rust. Since few people would realize the benefits, the cost was prohibitive.
The mounts are already expensive to produce.
The handles would protrude from the side and would be likely to be damaged
when people lay their mounts down (and they do), especially the plastic
handles.

Having said this, it is a great idea for our tips and techniques section of
the web site, if we ever have time to work on it.

Astro-Physics

-----Original Message-----
From: Ron Wodaski [mailto:ronw@nwlink.com]
Sent: Saturday, March 25, 2000 1:09 PM
To: ap-gto@egroups.com;
Subject: [ap-gto] Replacement azimuth clamps for 600E series

I have taken some pictures of the replacement clamps I installed on my AP
600 base. They work very well, and are really easy to install. You probably
don't need detailed instructions, but I posted them anyway. The details are
there so folks can see what the result is, and decide if it's worth doing:

http://www.multimediamadness.net/wodaski/ap600clamp.htm

Links to the McMaster-Carr web site and to the catalog page where these
puppies are sold are on the page above.

Next project: those big bolts that lock down altitude adjustment. Anyone
happen to know the thread on those, to save me a trip to the hardware store
to find out?

Ron Wodaski


------------------------------------------------------------------------
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Re: Replacement azimuth clamps for 600E series

Marj <astrophy@...>
 

Ron,
You are full of good ideas and your explanations are very clear (looking for
a technical writer/customer service job?). The side bolts on the 600E mount
are M12x1.75P. An alternate supplier is Reid Tool Supply Co.
Phone:1-800-253-0421 (at least as of 1997). We have provided them to several
people in northern latitudes since the normal knob would be in the way. I
don't know the exact part number.

We did consider this type of handle a couple of years ago, but did not add
them as a standard item to the mount for several reasons:
The stainless handles are very expensive, but less expensive ones would
rust. Since few people would realize the benefits, the cost was prohibitive.
The mounts are already expensive to produce.
The handles would protrude from the side and would be likely to be damaged
when people lay their mounts down (and they do), especially the plastic
handles.

Having said this, it is a great idea for our tips and techniques section of
the web site, if we ever have time to work on it.

Astro-Physics

-----Original Message-----
From: Ron Wodaski [mailto:ronw@nwlink.com]
Sent: Saturday, March 25, 2000 1:09 PM
To: ap-gto@egroups.com;
Subject: [ap-gto] Replacement azimuth clamps for 600E series

I have taken some pictures of the replacement clamps I installed on my AP
600 base. They work very well, and are really easy to install. You probably
don't need detailed instructions, but I posted them anyway. The details are
there so folks can see what the result is, and decide if it's worth doing:

http://www.multimediamadness.net/wodaski/ap600clamp.htm

Links to the McMaster-Carr web site and to the catalog page where these
puppies are sold are on the page above.

Next project: those big bolts that lock down altitude adjustment. Anyone
happen to know the thread on those, to save me a trip to the hardware store
to find out?

Ron Wodaski


------------------------------------------------------------------------
Good friends, school spirit, hair-dos you'd like to forget.
Classmates.com has them all. And with 4.4 million alumni already
registered, there's a good chance you'll find your friends here:
http://click.egroups.com/1/2622/3/_/3615/_/954011255/

-- Easily schedule meetings and events using the group calendar!
-- http://www.egroups.com/cal?listname=ap-gto&m=1


Re: New member: AP GTO on Parallax mount

Charles Sinsofsky <strfire@...>
 

OK, hello,
to answer your questions regarding the safe zone, and also I will place
this into the group area so that others may also use the information if they
find it usefull

1) Orion below the horizon, when it really was not.. Well that really
depends on how you set up the internal clock and date and your location
information. Remember the mount will calculate the altitude of an object
based on this information. if an object is relativly close to the horizon,
but visualy it is not, if your internal clock and position information is
not correct then it may very well indicate it is below the horizon.

2) the safe zone, what it refers to is the number of defrees in a giant
circle from the zenith (stright above your head) outword. so a 20 degree
safe zone would mean the scope would refuse to slew into any object at
altitude 90 - 20 (or nothing greater then 70 degrees up). we designed it
this way as not to have a large refractor bump an expensive camera or
eyepiece or ccd into the tripod or pier rob or base for that matter. in
most cases you will not have to set the safe zone. or rightly explained or
refered to as 'exclusion zone' ....ie: the scope will not enter that area.

One last note, inside the mount itself is more code, above and beyound
that what is in the hand controller, sometimes it is possible depending on
your code base, I do not know what code would be in a paralex 'bought the
a/p goto system' e-prom code base, the hand controller first decides if it
is safe to move to an object, the code there will say 'fine' and send the
mount the ra/dec cords though it is possible that the mount itself will
refuse. this is a safety feature built into the code base in the mount
because not everyone uses the mount with a hand controller. remember the a/p
goto system can be used directly from a p.c. if the given computer program
being used did not check for horizon it could technically inform the mount
to move the scope into the pier...we placed in additional checks for horizon
to compensate for just that type of case. this code has over time been even
more refined, so because of this, I am not sure what level of code would be
in your given gto system, as opposed to the latest and greatest one in a
given a/p gto mount right now.

But I would not worry about it...really..

- Charles Sinsofsky
Author: DigitalSky Voice, and contributor to the A/P mount GTO system.
www.digitalskyvoice.com
email: strfire@attglobal.net

----- Original Message -----
From: Mike Mah <mikemah@attglobal.net>
To: <ap-gto@eGroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, March 26, 2000 9:58 AM
Subject: [ap-gto] New member: AP GTO on Parallax mount


Hello everybody,

I've just joined and I find these postings useful and informative. I
hope I can find help for some questions:

I have an AP155 EDFS with piggybacked Tak FSQ106 on a pier mounted
Parallax Series 125 with AP GTO v2.6. I have acquired these recently
and have only used this setup a few times, so that I have more
equipment than experience. I am waiting for an AP1200 mount, to which I
will move the AP155.

With mount level and after proper polar alignment using the Polaris
routine, I have noticed that occasionally objects are indicated as
below the horizon when they are not. For example, last night at about
9:30 pm the Orion Nebula was indicated to be below the horizon when it
was not, and I could goto Betelgeuse. Did I miss something in the
manual on the GTO keypad controller about the horizon?

When I tried to goto M81, I had to stop the slewing as the scope was
going to hit the pier. What angle does the safety zone number (0-20)
refer to? Degrees from the polar axis so that the safety zone is a cone
(or circle on the sky)? Is this then a blind spot that the scope can't
access?

Thanks,

Mike Mah




------------------------------------------------------------------------
Good friends, school spirit, hair-dos you'd like to forget.
Classmates.com has them all. And with 4.4 million alumni already
registered, there's a good chance you'll find your friends here:
http://click.egroups.com/1/2637/3/_/3615/_/954090674/

-- Check out your group's private Chat room
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Re: New member: AP GTO on Parallax mount

howard lazarus <lazhow@...>
 

Hello again , Mike.

I use a pier and have never had the scope hit the pier. Set your slew or
pier stop number to #3....it will handle problems annd you will be able to
go to the zenith. You must be very careful on the setting up on your keypad
as you have already learned ...i think you will be set to go and hope you
enjoy you new mount. Mine is almost two years old being recieved in Oct 98.

----- Original Message -----
From: Mike Mah <mikemah@attglobal.net>
To: <ap-gto@eGroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, March 26, 2000 7:42 PM
Subject: [ap-gto] Re: New member: AP GTO on Parallax mount


Hi Howard,

Whoops, I just realized the values for longitude and latitude were
reversed - I've corrected it to long W 79:24, lat N 43:52 (I copied the
info from my LX200 manual where the order is lat/long rather than
long/lat.

Thanks again.

Mike Mah



"mike mah" <mikema-@attglobal.net> wrote:
original article:http://www.egroups.com/group/ap-gto/?start=449
Hi Howard,

1) yes long W 43:52, lat N 79:24
2) yes time zone 5, DS 0

but I double checked the time and it was one hour advanced. This could
account for the horizon problem.

3) yes, polar alignment with Sirius/Procyon.

Thanks. Any idea re safety zone?

Mike Mah


"howard lazarus" <lazho-@prodigy.net> wrote:
original article:http://www.egroups.com/group/ap-gto/?start=448
Hi Mike;
First do you have the correct long. and lat. settings.???
Second do you have the correct time zone/ daylight or standard.

Third did you do a polar alignment and did you start off with a
southern
star???

Hope that helps
Howard Lazarus

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Re: Setup of AP 400gto

Larry Denmark <kldenmark@...>
 

Hi Marc,

Congratulations on your new mount. I had a 400 QMD for several years and they
are very easy and quick to set up. There are several ways to achieve alignment
good enough for observation. The goto feature will make it a snap and the
manual comes with fairly good instructions on how to do a two star alignment
without using Polaris.

You can use a compass, during the day light hours, to get your mount oriented
close enough to Polaris for the two star alignment to work quickly. Then
pre-adjust the altitude setting on the mount to your latitude using a simple
protractor. Then follow the instructions in the manual. With practice, you can
be up and running in under ten minutes. ( To get your latitude, see:
http://www.geocode.com/eagle.html-ssi )

Larry Denmark
----
E-mail ..... kldenmark@att.net
Web site .. http://home.att.net/~kldenmark/

Just a simple question from a novice. I placed my name on the list
for a 400 mount thinking it would be way in the future. Well the future
came quickly, and the mount is due in the next few months. My question
concerns the setup time for the mount including polar alignment. I was
looking for a mount for a 4 inch refractor and considered the GP with
the skysensor, which does not require polar alignment, but I read of
too many mechanical problems with the skysensor. My ideal viewing spot
does not have a good view of polaris. I know there are other ways of
polar aligning, but they sound very time consuming.Anyone with an
estimate of setup times, and how careful alignment is needed for casual
observation, no astro-photograghy.


Setup of AP 400gto

Marc Zukoff <yooody@...>
 

Hi,

Just a simple question from a novice. I placed my name on the list
for a 400 mount thinking it would be way in the future. Well the future
came quickly, and the mount is due in the next few months. My question
concerns the setup time for the mount including polar alignment. I was
looking for a mount for a 4 inch refractor and considered the GP with
the skysensor, which does not require polar alignment, but I read of
too many mechanical problems with the skysensor. My ideal viewing spot
does not have a good view of polaris. I know there are other ways of
polar aligning, but they sound very time consuming.Anyone with an
estimate of setup times, and how careful alignment is needed for casual
observation, no astro-photograghy.


Re: Help with safety zone

Rich N. <rnapo@...>
 

Learn to star hop. ;-)

Rich

Just received AP900GTO ...
Need help with procedure for safety zone..

Ed Couture


Help with safety zone

Ed Couture <edcouture@...>
 

Just received AP900GTO ...
Need help with procedure for safety zone..

Ed Couture


Re: New member: AP GTO on Parallax mount

Mike Mah
 

Hi Howard,

Whoops, I just realized the values for longitude and latitude were
reversed - I've corrected it to long W 79:24, lat N 43:52 (I copied the
info from my LX200 manual where the order is lat/long rather than
long/lat.

Thanks again.

Mike Mah



"mike mah" <mikema-@attglobal.net> wrote:
original article:http://www.egroups.com/group/ap-gto/?start=449

Hi Howard,

1) yes long W 43:52, lat N 79:24
2) yes time zone 5, DS 0

but I double checked the time and it was one hour advanced. This could
account for the horizon problem.

3) yes, polar alignment with Sirius/Procyon.

Thanks. Any idea re safety zone?

Mike Mah


"howard lazarus" <lazho-@prodigy.net> wrote:
original article:http://www.egroups.com/group/ap-gto/?start=448
Hi Mike;
First do you have the correct long. and lat. settings.???
Second do you have the correct time zone/ daylight or standard.

Third did you do a polar alignment and did you start off with a
southern
star???

Hope that helps
Howard Lazarus


Re: New member: AP GTO on Parallax mount

Mike Mah
 

Hi Howard,

1) yes long W 43:52, lat N 79:24
2) yes time zone 5, DS 0

but I double checked the time and it was one hour advanced. This could
account for the horizon problem.

3) yes, polar alignment with Sirius/Procyon.

Thanks. Any idea re safety zone?

Mike Mah


"howard lazarus" <lazho-@prodigy.net> wrote:
original article:http://www.egroups.com/group/ap-gto/?start=448
Hi Mike;
First do you have the correct long. and lat. settings.???
Second do you have the correct time zone/ daylight or standard.

Third did you do a polar alignment and did you start off with a
southern
star???

Hope that helps
Howard Lazarus


Re: New member: AP GTO on Parallax mount

howard lazarus <lazhow@...>
 

Hi Mike;
First do you have the correct long. and lat. settings.???
Second do you have the correct time zone/ daylight or standard.

Third did you do a polar alignment and did you start off with a southern
star???

Hope that helps
Howard Lazarus

----- Original Message -----
From: Mike Mah <mikemah@attglobal.net>
To: <ap-gto@eGroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, March 26, 2000 9:58 AM
Subject: [ap-gto] New member: AP GTO on Parallax mount


Hello everybody,

I've just joined and I find these postings useful and informative. I
hope I can find help for some questions:

I have an AP155 EDFS with piggybacked Tak FSQ106 on a pier mounted
Parallax Series 125 with AP GTO v2.6. I have acquired these recently
and have only used this setup a few times, so that I have more
equipment than experience. I am waiting for an AP1200 mount, to which I
will move the AP155.

With mount level and after proper polar alignment using the Polaris
routine, I have noticed that occasionally objects are indicated as
below the horizon when they are not. For example, last night at about
9:30 pm the Orion Nebula was indicated to be below the horizon when it
was not, and I could goto Betelgeuse. Did I miss something in the
manual on the GTO keypad controller about the horizon?

When I tried to goto M81, I had to stop the slewing as the scope was
going to hit the pier. What angle does the safety zone number (0-20)
refer to? Degrees from the polar axis so that the safety zone is a cone
(or circle on the sky)? Is this then a blind spot that the scope can't
access?

Thanks,

Mike Mah




------------------------------------------------------------------------
Good friends, school spirit, hair-dos you'd like to forget.
Classmates.com has them all. And with 4.4 million alumni already
registered, there's a good chance you'll find your friends here:
http://click.egroups.com/1/2637/3/_/3615/_/954090674/

-- Check out your group's private Chat room
-- http://www.egroups.com/ChatPage?listName=ap-gto&m=1


Re: This might be a stupid question - figured it out

Rich N. <rnapo@...>
 

Hi Paul,

IMHO, this is a problem with the way the shaft
was made. You shouldn't have to put the weights
on from the threaded end of the shaft. And, you
shouldn't have screw the shaft into the mount with
all the weights on the shaft.

There is a retaining screw and "plate" on the end
of shaft to keep a weight from falling off should you
accidently not tighten the weight correctly on the shaft.

You should be able to easily move the weights along
the full length of the shaft.

Rich

Hi Rich -

Thanks for your note. That wasn't the problem, but I did figure it out
this
morning (my initial theory of it being a stupid question was pretty spot
on!).

My mistake was trying to put the counterweight on _after_ already threading
the
counterweight shaft onto the mount. I didn't initially realize that the
counterweight shaft diameter gets noticably wider right at the end -- it
almost
makes the safety plug at the end redundant.

When I took the shaft off of the mount and tried putting the weight over
the
threaded end, it worked fine. It will slide freely up and down the shaft
until
it gets within about 1/2 inch of the bottom where it then stops (because
the
shaft is wider).

What I need to do is first put the weight on the shaft, and then thread the
shaft into the mount. I've not encountered this on other mounts I've used
(my
other mount is a Vixen Great Polaris). As I intend to use a reasonably
wide
range of instrument weights on this, I suspect I'll get a fair amount of
practice threading and unthreading this shaft.

Thanks.

Paul









"Rich N." <rnapo@znet.com> on 03/26/2000 05:42:01 AM

Please respond to ap-gto@egroups.com








To: ap-gto@egroups.com

cc: (bcc: Paul Schroeder/US/DataCard)



Subject: [ap-gto] Re: This might be a stupid question . . .



Fax to:




Are you sure you have the set screw backed out all
the way? There is bronze "nose" that "floats" in the
hole. I always slide the weight on the shaft with the
knob on the weight pointing down so that this floating
bronze nose will stay clear of the shaft. Once the weight
is on the shaft I rotate the weight so the knob is on top.

Maybe there is a little burr in the hole where the bronze
nose stick through?

Rich


Hi all -

Well, my 600E GTO arrived from AP earlier this week-- it is absolutely
gorgeous
and very solid. Tonight the skies cleared up nicely, and I had hoped to
give it
a brief test drive.

Alas, I got tripped up by a fairly (very?) mundane problem.

Put simply, I couldn't get the 9 pound counterweight to slip over the
counterweight shaft. It was _incredibly_ tight. With maximum hand
pressure, I
couldn't get the shaft more than 1/4 inch into the counterweight.

The only conceivable way I could have gotten it in further would be to do
some
serious banging with a rubber mallet. I didn't feel very comfortable
doing
this
with a brand new mount. As it was, it took both me and my son pulling
very
hard
to get the shaft out of the counterweight (even though it was only 1/4
inch
in!).

Are the counterweights normally this snug? Is there a break-in period to
"loosen" the collar inside the counterweight, or does this sound unusual?

I'll call AP on Monday, but if anyone had any suggestions maybe I could
try
again yet tonight (or tomorrow night).

Thanks and best regards,

Paul Schroeder



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