Date   

Re: New member: AP GTO on Parallax mount

howard lazarus <lazhow@...>
 

Hello again , Mike.

I use a pier and have never had the scope hit the pier. Set your slew or
pier stop number to #3....it will handle problems annd you will be able to
go to the zenith. You must be very careful on the setting up on your keypad
as you have already learned ...i think you will be set to go and hope you
enjoy you new mount. Mine is almost two years old being recieved in Oct 98.

----- Original Message -----
From: Mike Mah <mikemah@attglobal.net>
To: <ap-gto@eGroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, March 26, 2000 7:42 PM
Subject: [ap-gto] Re: New member: AP GTO on Parallax mount


Hi Howard,

Whoops, I just realized the values for longitude and latitude were
reversed - I've corrected it to long W 79:24, lat N 43:52 (I copied the
info from my LX200 manual where the order is lat/long rather than
long/lat.

Thanks again.

Mike Mah



"mike mah" <mikema-@attglobal.net> wrote:
original article:http://www.egroups.com/group/ap-gto/?start=449
Hi Howard,

1) yes long W 43:52, lat N 79:24
2) yes time zone 5, DS 0

but I double checked the time and it was one hour advanced. This could
account for the horizon problem.

3) yes, polar alignment with Sirius/Procyon.

Thanks. Any idea re safety zone?

Mike Mah


"howard lazarus" <lazho-@prodigy.net> wrote:
original article:http://www.egroups.com/group/ap-gto/?start=448
Hi Mike;
First do you have the correct long. and lat. settings.???
Second do you have the correct time zone/ daylight or standard.

Third did you do a polar alignment and did you start off with a
southern
star???

Hope that helps
Howard Lazarus

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Re: Setup of AP 400gto

Larry Denmark <kldenmark@...>
 

Hi Marc,

Congratulations on your new mount. I had a 400 QMD for several years and they
are very easy and quick to set up. There are several ways to achieve alignment
good enough for observation. The goto feature will make it a snap and the
manual comes with fairly good instructions on how to do a two star alignment
without using Polaris.

You can use a compass, during the day light hours, to get your mount oriented
close enough to Polaris for the two star alignment to work quickly. Then
pre-adjust the altitude setting on the mount to your latitude using a simple
protractor. Then follow the instructions in the manual. With practice, you can
be up and running in under ten minutes. ( To get your latitude, see:
http://www.geocode.com/eagle.html-ssi )

Larry Denmark
----
E-mail ..... kldenmark@att.net
Web site .. http://home.att.net/~kldenmark/

Just a simple question from a novice. I placed my name on the list
for a 400 mount thinking it would be way in the future. Well the future
came quickly, and the mount is due in the next few months. My question
concerns the setup time for the mount including polar alignment. I was
looking for a mount for a 4 inch refractor and considered the GP with
the skysensor, which does not require polar alignment, but I read of
too many mechanical problems with the skysensor. My ideal viewing spot
does not have a good view of polaris. I know there are other ways of
polar aligning, but they sound very time consuming.Anyone with an
estimate of setup times, and how careful alignment is needed for casual
observation, no astro-photograghy.


Setup of AP 400gto

Marc Zukoff <yooody@...>
 

Hi,

Just a simple question from a novice. I placed my name on the list
for a 400 mount thinking it would be way in the future. Well the future
came quickly, and the mount is due in the next few months. My question
concerns the setup time for the mount including polar alignment. I was
looking for a mount for a 4 inch refractor and considered the GP with
the skysensor, which does not require polar alignment, but I read of
too many mechanical problems with the skysensor. My ideal viewing spot
does not have a good view of polaris. I know there are other ways of
polar aligning, but they sound very time consuming.Anyone with an
estimate of setup times, and how careful alignment is needed for casual
observation, no astro-photograghy.


Re: Help with safety zone

Rich N. <rnapo@...>
 

Learn to star hop. ;-)

Rich

Just received AP900GTO ...
Need help with procedure for safety zone..

Ed Couture


Help with safety zone

Ed Couture <edcouture@...>
 

Just received AP900GTO ...
Need help with procedure for safety zone..

Ed Couture


Re: New member: AP GTO on Parallax mount

Mike Mah
 

Hi Howard,

Whoops, I just realized the values for longitude and latitude were
reversed - I've corrected it to long W 79:24, lat N 43:52 (I copied the
info from my LX200 manual where the order is lat/long rather than
long/lat.

Thanks again.

Mike Mah



"mike mah" <mikema-@attglobal.net> wrote:
original article:http://www.egroups.com/group/ap-gto/?start=449

Hi Howard,

1) yes long W 43:52, lat N 79:24
2) yes time zone 5, DS 0

but I double checked the time and it was one hour advanced. This could
account for the horizon problem.

3) yes, polar alignment with Sirius/Procyon.

Thanks. Any idea re safety zone?

Mike Mah


"howard lazarus" <lazho-@prodigy.net> wrote:
original article:http://www.egroups.com/group/ap-gto/?start=448
Hi Mike;
First do you have the correct long. and lat. settings.???
Second do you have the correct time zone/ daylight or standard.

Third did you do a polar alignment and did you start off with a
southern
star???

Hope that helps
Howard Lazarus


Re: New member: AP GTO on Parallax mount

Mike Mah
 

Hi Howard,

1) yes long W 43:52, lat N 79:24
2) yes time zone 5, DS 0

but I double checked the time and it was one hour advanced. This could
account for the horizon problem.

3) yes, polar alignment with Sirius/Procyon.

Thanks. Any idea re safety zone?

Mike Mah


"howard lazarus" <lazho-@prodigy.net> wrote:
original article:http://www.egroups.com/group/ap-gto/?start=448
Hi Mike;
First do you have the correct long. and lat. settings.???
Second do you have the correct time zone/ daylight or standard.

Third did you do a polar alignment and did you start off with a
southern
star???

Hope that helps
Howard Lazarus


Re: New member: AP GTO on Parallax mount

howard lazarus <lazhow@...>
 

Hi Mike;
First do you have the correct long. and lat. settings.???
Second do you have the correct time zone/ daylight or standard.

Third did you do a polar alignment and did you start off with a southern
star???

Hope that helps
Howard Lazarus

----- Original Message -----
From: Mike Mah <mikemah@attglobal.net>
To: <ap-gto@eGroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, March 26, 2000 9:58 AM
Subject: [ap-gto] New member: AP GTO on Parallax mount


Hello everybody,

I've just joined and I find these postings useful and informative. I
hope I can find help for some questions:

I have an AP155 EDFS with piggybacked Tak FSQ106 on a pier mounted
Parallax Series 125 with AP GTO v2.6. I have acquired these recently
and have only used this setup a few times, so that I have more
equipment than experience. I am waiting for an AP1200 mount, to which I
will move the AP155.

With mount level and after proper polar alignment using the Polaris
routine, I have noticed that occasionally objects are indicated as
below the horizon when they are not. For example, last night at about
9:30 pm the Orion Nebula was indicated to be below the horizon when it
was not, and I could goto Betelgeuse. Did I miss something in the
manual on the GTO keypad controller about the horizon?

When I tried to goto M81, I had to stop the slewing as the scope was
going to hit the pier. What angle does the safety zone number (0-20)
refer to? Degrees from the polar axis so that the safety zone is a cone
(or circle on the sky)? Is this then a blind spot that the scope can't
access?

Thanks,

Mike Mah




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Re: This might be a stupid question - figured it out

Rich N. <rnapo@...>
 

Hi Paul,

IMHO, this is a problem with the way the shaft
was made. You shouldn't have to put the weights
on from the threaded end of the shaft. And, you
shouldn't have screw the shaft into the mount with
all the weights on the shaft.

There is a retaining screw and "plate" on the end
of shaft to keep a weight from falling off should you
accidently not tighten the weight correctly on the shaft.

You should be able to easily move the weights along
the full length of the shaft.

Rich

Hi Rich -

Thanks for your note. That wasn't the problem, but I did figure it out
this
morning (my initial theory of it being a stupid question was pretty spot
on!).

My mistake was trying to put the counterweight on _after_ already threading
the
counterweight shaft onto the mount. I didn't initially realize that the
counterweight shaft diameter gets noticably wider right at the end -- it
almost
makes the safety plug at the end redundant.

When I took the shaft off of the mount and tried putting the weight over
the
threaded end, it worked fine. It will slide freely up and down the shaft
until
it gets within about 1/2 inch of the bottom where it then stops (because
the
shaft is wider).

What I need to do is first put the weight on the shaft, and then thread the
shaft into the mount. I've not encountered this on other mounts I've used
(my
other mount is a Vixen Great Polaris). As I intend to use a reasonably
wide
range of instrument weights on this, I suspect I'll get a fair amount of
practice threading and unthreading this shaft.

Thanks.

Paul









"Rich N." <rnapo@znet.com> on 03/26/2000 05:42:01 AM

Please respond to ap-gto@egroups.com








To: ap-gto@egroups.com

cc: (bcc: Paul Schroeder/US/DataCard)



Subject: [ap-gto] Re: This might be a stupid question . . .



Fax to:




Are you sure you have the set screw backed out all
the way? There is bronze "nose" that "floats" in the
hole. I always slide the weight on the shaft with the
knob on the weight pointing down so that this floating
bronze nose will stay clear of the shaft. Once the weight
is on the shaft I rotate the weight so the knob is on top.

Maybe there is a little burr in the hole where the bronze
nose stick through?

Rich


Hi all -

Well, my 600E GTO arrived from AP earlier this week-- it is absolutely
gorgeous
and very solid. Tonight the skies cleared up nicely, and I had hoped to
give it
a brief test drive.

Alas, I got tripped up by a fairly (very?) mundane problem.

Put simply, I couldn't get the 9 pound counterweight to slip over the
counterweight shaft. It was _incredibly_ tight. With maximum hand
pressure, I
couldn't get the shaft more than 1/4 inch into the counterweight.

The only conceivable way I could have gotten it in further would be to do
some
serious banging with a rubber mallet. I didn't feel very comfortable
doing
this
with a brand new mount. As it was, it took both me and my son pulling
very
hard
to get the shaft out of the counterweight (even though it was only 1/4
inch
in!).

Are the counterweights normally this snug? Is there a break-in period to
"loosen" the collar inside the counterweight, or does this sound unusual?

I'll call AP on Monday, but if anyone had any suggestions maybe I could
try
again yet tonight (or tomorrow night).

Thanks and best regards,

Paul Schroeder



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Re: This might be a stupid question - figured it out

paul_schroeder@...
 

Hi Derek -

Thanks for the note. The pin isn't the problem, the shaft actually does get
wider at the end opposite the threads.

I tried the following a few times earlier this morning. When I put the counter
weight on the threaded end, hold the shaft upright, and then drop the 9 pound
weight, it stops about 1/2 inch from the end. I'd really have to bang on it to
get it all the way off the unthreaded end. Along most of the shaft it moves
fine with no binding, but I just can't get it past the end. I did about 10
drops in a row, and it didn't seem to perceptibly loosen up any or move farther
towards the end of the shaft. Each time it stopped about 1/2 inch from the end.

I'll call AP tomorrow and I'm sure they can clarify or fix things.

Thanks.

Paul








Derek Wong <dawong@earthlink.net> on 03/26/2000 12:00:54 PM

Please respond to ap-gto@egroups.com








To: ap-gto@egroups.com

cc: (bcc: Paul Schroeder/US/DataCard)



Subject: [ap-gto] Re: This might be a stupid question -
figured it out



Fax to:




Paul:

I agree with what Eric said below.

Sometimes, I have to gently push the pin down, even when the
counterweight screw is in the "out" position.

If you look through the counterweight and turn it to various positions
you should see what is happening.

I doubt the counterweight shaft gets wider at the bottom, but you can
test that by threading the weight onto one end, then sliding it off the
other.

Derek




I have only had my 900 GTO for a little over a week and only had a chance to
use it once but have a suggestion for you. I thread the counterweight shaft
on first, then slide the counterweights on. I found that although I had
loosened the counterweight knob , if the counterweights were facing up, the
brass pin would slide down and get in the way of sliding the counterweights
up the shaft. So I just rotated the counterweights so that they faced
downward and gravity would cause the brass pin to slide out of the way. Once
the counterweights were on the shaft I just rotated them around so that the
knobs are at a more convenient position for me to adjust.
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Re: This might be a stupid question - figured it out

Derek Wong <dawong@...>
 

Paul said:

When I took the shaft off of the mount and tried putting the weight over the
threaded end, it worked fine. It will slide freely up and down the shaft until
it gets within about 1/2 inch of the bottom where it then stops (because the
shaft is wider).
I said:

I doubt the counterweight shaft gets wider at the bottom, but you can
test that by threading the weight onto one end, then sliding it off the
other.
Sorry Paul, I didn't get your second post until now. If you can't slide
the counterweight down the shaft and the screw is out, then perhaps the
pin is stuck or maybe you really do need to return the shaft.

Derek


Re: This might be a stupid question - figured it out

Derek Wong <dawong@...>
 

Paul:

I agree with what Eric said below.

Sometimes, I have to gently push the pin down, even when the
counterweight screw is in the "out" position.

If you look through the counterweight and turn it to various positions
you should see what is happening.

I doubt the counterweight shaft gets wider at the bottom, but you can
test that by threading the weight onto one end, then sliding it off the
other.

Derek

I have only had my 900 GTO for a little over a week and only had a chance to
use it once but have a suggestion for you. I thread the counterweight shaft
on first, then slide the counterweights on. I found that although I had
loosened the counterweight knob , if the counterweights were facing up, the
brass pin would slide down and get in the way of sliding the counterweights
up the shaft. So I just rotated the counterweights so that they faced
downward and gravity would cause the brass pin to slide out of the way. Once
the counterweights were on the shaft I just rotated them around so that the
knobs are at a more convenient position for me to adjust.


Re: This might be a stupid question - figured it out

John Gleason
 

Egad! That doesn't seem like a practical thing to do. I always put the cw
bar on first then attach the weights by sliding onto the shaft. So what
this implies that is that you have to load the shaft first, then attempt to
screw it with all that weight onto the mount? This simply can't be the
case. Please contact Astro Physics on Monday and find out if this is their
intention. Tell us it just isn't so. ;-0


John Gleason, dvj@earthlink.net
http://www.celestialimage.com



----------
From: Paul_Schroeder@datacard.com
To: ap-gto@egroups.com
Subject: [ap-gto] Re: This might be a stupid question - figured it out
Date: Sunday, March 26, 2000 4:57 AM



Hi Rich -

Thanks for your note. That wasn't the problem, but I did figure it out
this
morning (my initial theory of it being a stupid question was pretty spot
on!).

My mistake was trying to put the counterweight on _after_ already
threading the
counterweight shaft onto the mount. I didn't initially realize that the
counterweight shaft diameter gets noticably wider right at the end -- it
almost
makes the safety plug at the end redundant.

When I took the shaft off of the mount and tried putting the weight over
the
threaded end, it worked fine. It will slide freely up and down the shaft
until
it gets within about 1/2 inch of the bottom where it then stops (because
the
shaft is wider).

What I need to do is first put the weight on the shaft, and then thread
the
shaft into the mount. I've not encountered this on other mounts I've
used (my
other mount is a Vixen Great Polaris). As I intend to use a reasonably
wide
range of instrument weights on this, I suspect I'll get a fair amount of
practice threading and unthreading this shaft.

Thanks.

Paul









"Rich N." <rnapo@znet.com> on 03/26/2000 05:42:01 AM

Please respond to ap-gto@egroups.com





To: ap-gto@egroups.com

cc: (bcc: Paul Schroeder/US/DataCard)



Subject: [ap-gto] Re: This might be a stupid question . . .



Fax to:




Are you sure you have the set screw backed out all
the way? There is bronze "nose" that "floats" in the
hole. I always slide the weight on the shaft with the
knob on the weight pointing down so that this floating
bronze nose will stay clear of the shaft. Once the weight
is on the shaft I rotate the weight so the knob is on top.

Maybe there is a little burr in the hole where the bronze
nose stick through?

Rich


Hi all -

Well, my 600E GTO arrived from AP earlier this week-- it is absolutely
gorgeous
and very solid. Tonight the skies cleared up nicely, and I had hoped to
give it
a brief test drive.

Alas, I got tripped up by a fairly (very?) mundane problem.

Put simply, I couldn't get the 9 pound counterweight to slip over the
counterweight shaft. It was _incredibly_ tight. With maximum hand
pressure, I
couldn't get the shaft more than 1/4 inch into the counterweight.

The only conceivable way I could have gotten it in further would be to
do
some
serious banging with a rubber mallet. I didn't feel very comfortable
doing
this
with a brand new mount. As it was, it took both me and my son pulling
very
hard
to get the shaft out of the counterweight (even though it was only 1/4
inch
in!).

Are the counterweights normally this snug? Is there a break-in period
to
"loosen" the collar inside the counterweight, or does this sound
unusual?

I'll call AP on Monday, but if anyone had any suggestions maybe I could
try
again yet tonight (or tomorrow night).

Thanks and best regards,

Paul Schroeder



------------------------------------------------------------------------
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Re: This might be a stupid question - figured it out

Larry Denmark <kldenmark@...>
 

Hi Paul,

You did get it to work... but you also uncovered a flaw in the counterweight
shaft. You should have a shaft with a uniform diameter and you should have
no difficulty adding or removing counterweights with the shaft screwed
firmly into the mount. Get it replaced. There is no reason to have to
remove the shaft in order to remove or add weights.

BTW, If you are using a refractor, you might want to check out a minor
modification that I made to help balance the DEC. axis so that one can
easily switch from visual to photographic use of the telescope without
having to resort to sliding the OTA in the dovetail mount. Prior to that
modification, I found that adjusting the DEC. balance would throw off
critical polar alignment: but I don't have that problem any more. See:
http://home.att.net/~kldenmark/equipment/decbar.html

Regards,

Larry Denmark

E-mail . . . kldenmark@att.net
Web site . . http://home.att.net/~kldenmark/


Hi Rich -

Thanks for your note. That wasn't the problem, but I did figure it out
this
morning (my initial theory of it being a stupid question was pretty spot
on!).

My mistake was trying to put the counterweight on _after_ already
threading the
counterweight shaft onto the mount. I didn't initially realize that the
counterweight shaft diameter gets noticably wider right at the end -- it
almost
makes the safety plug at the end redundant.

When I took the shaft off of the mount and tried putting the weight over
the
threaded end, it worked fine. It will slide freely up and down the shaft
until
it gets within about 1/2 inch of the bottom where it then stops (because
the
shaft is wider).

What I need to do is first put the weight on the shaft, and then thread
the
shaft into the mount. I've not encountered this on other mounts I've used
(my
other mount is a Vixen Great Polaris). As I intend to use a reasonably
wide
range of instrument weights on this, I suspect I'll get a fair amount of
practice threading and unthreading this shaft.

Thanks.

Paul









"Rich N." <rnapo@znet.com> on 03/26/2000 05:42:01 AM

Please respond to ap-gto@egroups.com








To: ap-gto@egroups.com

cc: (bcc: Paul Schroeder/US/DataCard)



Subject: [ap-gto] Re: This might be a stupid question . . .



Fax to:




Are you sure you have the set screw backed out all
the way? There is bronze "nose" that "floats" in the
hole. I always slide the weight on the shaft with the
knob on the weight pointing down so that this floating
bronze nose will stay clear of the shaft. Once the weight
is on the shaft I rotate the weight so the knob is on top.

Maybe there is a little burr in the hole where the bronze
nose stick through?

Rich


Hi all -

Well, my 600E GTO arrived from AP earlier this week-- it is absolutely
gorgeous
and very solid. Tonight the skies cleared up nicely, and I had hoped to
give it
a brief test drive.

Alas, I got tripped up by a fairly (very?) mundane problem.

Put simply, I couldn't get the 9 pound counterweight to slip over the
counterweight shaft. It was _incredibly_ tight. With maximum hand
pressure, I
couldn't get the shaft more than 1/4 inch into the counterweight.

The only conceivable way I could have gotten it in further would be to do
some
serious banging with a rubber mallet. I didn't feel very comfortable
doing
this
with a brand new mount. As it was, it took both me and my son pulling
very
hard
to get the shaft out of the counterweight (even though it was only 1/4
inch
in!).

Are the counterweights normally this snug? Is there a break-in period to
"loosen" the collar inside the counterweight, or does this sound unusual?

I'll call AP on Monday, but if anyone had any suggestions maybe I could
try
again yet tonight (or tomorrow night).

Thanks and best regards,

Paul Schroeder



------------------------------------------------------------------------
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Re: This might be a stupid question - figured it out

ericj <ericj@...>
 

Hi Paul:

I have only had my 900 GTO for a little over a week and only had a chance to
use it once but have a suggestion for you. I thread the counterweight shaft
on first, then slide the counterweights on. I found that although I had
loosened the counterweight knob , if the counterweights were facing up, the
brass pin would slide down and get in the way of sliding the counterweights
up the shaft. So I just rotated the counterweights so that they faced
downward and gravity would cause the brass pin to slide out of the way. Once
the counterweights were on the shaft I just rotated them around so that the
knobs are at a more convenient position for me to adjust.

Hope this helps,

Eric

planetary and comet drawings at:
http://www.metro2000.net/~ericj

Paul Schroeder wrote:

-----Original Message-----
From: Paul_Schroeder@datacard.com <Paul_Schroeder@datacard.com>
To: ap-gto@egroups.com <ap-gto@egroups.com>
Date: Sunday, March 26, 2000 7:35 AM
Subject: [ap-gto] Re: This might be a stupid question - figured it out




Hi Rich -

Thanks for your note. That wasn't the problem, but I did figure it out
this
morning (my initial theory of it being a stupid question was pretty spot
on!).

My mistake was trying to put the counterweight on _after_ already threading
the
counterweight shaft onto the mount. I didn't initially realize that the
counterweight shaft diameter gets noticably wider right at the end -- it
almost
makes the safety plug at the end redundant.

When I took the shaft off of the mount and tried putting the weight over
the
threaded end, it worked fine. It will slide freely up and down the shaft
until
it gets within about 1/2 inch of the bottom where it then stops (because
the
shaft is wider).

What I need to do is first put the weight on the shaft, and then thread the
shaft into the mount. I've not encountered this on other mounts I've used
(my
other mount is a Vixen Great Polaris). As I intend to use a reasonably
wide
range of instrument weights on this, I suspect I'll get a fair amount of
practice threading and unthreading this shaft.

Thanks.

Paul









"Rich N." <rnapo@znet.com> on 03/26/2000 05:42:01 AM

Please respond to ap-gto@egroups.com








To: ap-gto@egroups.com

cc: (bcc: Paul Schroeder/US/DataCard)



Subject: [ap-gto] Re: This might be a stupid question . . .



Fax to:




Are you sure you have the set screw backed out all
the way? There is bronze "nose" that "floats" in the
hole. I always slide the weight on the shaft with the
knob on the weight pointing down so that this floating
bronze nose will stay clear of the shaft. Once the weight
is on the shaft I rotate the weight so the knob is on top.

Maybe there is a little burr in the hole where the bronze
nose stick through?

Rich


Hi all -

Well, my 600E GTO arrived from AP earlier this week-- it is absolutely
gorgeous
and very solid. Tonight the skies cleared up nicely, and I had hoped to
give it
a brief test drive.

Alas, I got tripped up by a fairly (very?) mundane problem.

Put simply, I couldn't get the 9 pound counterweight to slip over the
counterweight shaft. It was _incredibly_ tight. With maximum hand
pressure, I
couldn't get the shaft more than 1/4 inch into the counterweight.

The only conceivable way I could have gotten it in further would be to do
some
serious banging with a rubber mallet. I didn't feel very comfortable
doing
this
with a brand new mount. As it was, it took both me and my son pulling
very
hard
to get the shaft out of the counterweight (even though it was only 1/4
inch
in!).

Are the counterweights normally this snug? Is there a break-in period to
"loosen" the collar inside the counterweight, or does this sound unusual?

I'll call AP on Monday, but if anyone had any suggestions maybe I could
try
again yet tonight (or tomorrow night).

Thanks and best regards,

Paul Schroeder



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New member: AP GTO on Parallax mount

Mike Mah
 

Hello everybody,

I've just joined and I find these postings useful and informative. I
hope I can find help for some questions:

I have an AP155 EDFS with piggybacked Tak FSQ106 on a pier mounted
Parallax Series 125 with AP GTO v2.6. I have acquired these recently
and have only used this setup a few times, so that I have more
equipment than experience. I am waiting for an AP1200 mount, to which I
will move the AP155.

With mount level and after proper polar alignment using the Polaris
routine, I have noticed that occasionally objects are indicated as
below the horizon when they are not. For example, last night at about
9:30 pm the Orion Nebula was indicated to be below the horizon when it
was not, and I could goto Betelgeuse. Did I miss something in the
manual on the GTO keypad controller about the horizon?

When I tried to goto M81, I had to stop the slewing as the scope was
going to hit the pier. What angle does the safety zone number (0-20)
refer to? Degrees from the polar axis so that the safety zone is a cone
(or circle on the sky)? Is this then a blind spot that the scope can't
access?

Thanks,

Mike Mah


Re: This might be a stupid question - figured it out

paul_schroeder@...
 

Hi Rich -

Thanks for your note. That wasn't the problem, but I did figure it out this
morning (my initial theory of it being a stupid question was pretty spot on!).

My mistake was trying to put the counterweight on _after_ already threading the
counterweight shaft onto the mount. I didn't initially realize that the
counterweight shaft diameter gets noticably wider right at the end -- it almost
makes the safety plug at the end redundant.

When I took the shaft off of the mount and tried putting the weight over the
threaded end, it worked fine. It will slide freely up and down the shaft until
it gets within about 1/2 inch of the bottom where it then stops (because the
shaft is wider).

What I need to do is first put the weight on the shaft, and then thread the
shaft into the mount. I've not encountered this on other mounts I've used (my
other mount is a Vixen Great Polaris). As I intend to use a reasonably wide
range of instrument weights on this, I suspect I'll get a fair amount of
practice threading and unthreading this shaft.

Thanks.

Paul









"Rich N." <rnapo@znet.com> on 03/26/2000 05:42:01 AM

Please respond to ap-gto@egroups.com








To: ap-gto@egroups.com

cc: (bcc: Paul Schroeder/US/DataCard)



Subject: [ap-gto] Re: This might be a stupid question . . .



Fax to:




Are you sure you have the set screw backed out all
the way? There is bronze "nose" that "floats" in the
hole. I always slide the weight on the shaft with the
knob on the weight pointing down so that this floating
bronze nose will stay clear of the shaft. Once the weight
is on the shaft I rotate the weight so the knob is on top.

Maybe there is a little burr in the hole where the bronze
nose stick through?

Rich


Hi all -

Well, my 600E GTO arrived from AP earlier this week-- it is absolutely
gorgeous
and very solid. Tonight the skies cleared up nicely, and I had hoped to
give it
a brief test drive.

Alas, I got tripped up by a fairly (very?) mundane problem.

Put simply, I couldn't get the 9 pound counterweight to slip over the
counterweight shaft. It was _incredibly_ tight. With maximum hand
pressure, I
couldn't get the shaft more than 1/4 inch into the counterweight.

The only conceivable way I could have gotten it in further would be to do
some
serious banging with a rubber mallet. I didn't feel very comfortable doing
this
with a brand new mount. As it was, it took both me and my son pulling very
hard
to get the shaft out of the counterweight (even though it was only 1/4 inch
in!).

Are the counterweights normally this snug? Is there a break-in period to
"loosen" the collar inside the counterweight, or does this sound unusual?

I'll call AP on Monday, but if anyone had any suggestions maybe I could try
again yet tonight (or tomorrow night).

Thanks and best regards,

Paul Schroeder



------------------------------------------------------------------------
Good friends, school spirit, hair-dos you'd like to forget.
Classmates.com has them all. And with 4.4 million alumni already
registered, there's a good chance you'll find your friends here:
http://click.egroups.com/1/2637/3/_/3615/_/954043411/

-- 20 megs of disk space in your group's Document Vault
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and compare rates from leading companies. See if you can save!
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Re: This might be a stupid question . . .

Rich N. <rnapo@...>
 

Are you sure you have the set screw backed out all
the way? There is bronze "nose" that "floats" in the
hole. I always slide the weight on the shaft with the
knob on the weight pointing down so that this floating
bronze nose will stay clear of the shaft. Once the weight
is on the shaft I rotate the weight so the knob is on top.

Maybe there is a little burr in the hole where the bronze
nose stick through?

Rich


Hi all -

Well, my 600E GTO arrived from AP earlier this week-- it is absolutely
gorgeous
and very solid. Tonight the skies cleared up nicely, and I had hoped to
give it
a brief test drive.

Alas, I got tripped up by a fairly (very?) mundane problem.

Put simply, I couldn't get the 9 pound counterweight to slip over the
counterweight shaft. It was _incredibly_ tight. With maximum hand
pressure, I
couldn't get the shaft more than 1/4 inch into the counterweight.

The only conceivable way I could have gotten it in further would be to do
some
serious banging with a rubber mallet. I didn't feel very comfortable doing
this
with a brand new mount. As it was, it took both me and my son pulling very
hard
to get the shaft out of the counterweight (even though it was only 1/4 inch
in!).

Are the counterweights normally this snug? Is there a break-in period to
"loosen" the collar inside the counterweight, or does this sound unusual?

I'll call AP on Monday, but if anyone had any suggestions maybe I could try
again yet tonight (or tomorrow night).

Thanks and best regards,

Paul Schroeder



------------------------------------------------------------------------
Good friends, school spirit, hair-dos you'd like to forget.
Classmates.com has them all. And with 4.4 million alumni already
registered, there's a good chance you'll find your friends here:
http://click.egroups.com/1/2637/3/_/3615/_/954043411/

-- 20 megs of disk space in your group's Document Vault
-- http://www.egroups.com/docvault/ap-gto/?m=1


Re: This might be a stupid question . . .

BKuperinsk@...
 

In a message dated 3/25/00 11:03:51 PM Eastern Standard Time,
Paul_Schroeder@datacard.com writes:

Hi all -

Well, my 600E GTO arrived from AP earlier this week-- it is absolutely
gorgeous
and very solid. Tonight the skies cleared up nicely, and I had hoped to
give it
a brief test drive.

Alas, I got tripped up by a fairly (very?) mundane problem.

Put simply, I couldn't get the 9 pound counterweight to slip over the
counterweight shaft. It was _incredibly_ tight. With maximum hand
pressure,
I
couldn't get the shaft more than 1/4 inch into the counterweight.

The only conceivable way I could have gotten it in further would be to do
some
serious banging with a rubber mallet. I didn't feel very comfortable
doing
this
with a brand new mount. As it was, it took both me and my son pulling
very
hard
to get the shaft out of the counterweight (even though it was only 1/4 inch
in!).

Are the counterweights normally this snug? Is there a break-in period to
"loosen" the collar inside the counterweight, or does this sound unusual?

I'll call AP on Monday, but if anyone had any suggestions maybe I could try
again yet tonight (or tomorrow night).

Thanks and best regards,

Paul Schroeder

I also received a new AP mount last week. It was a 900 GTO. The 18 lb.
counter wts that I used for a few years with my 900 QMD were also very tight
on the new mount's counter wt. shaft but they do slide on with a back and
forth rotation. A lite work out with a little grit cloth did the trick. Other
than polish the brass surface there is no evidence of my major field
modification : )

Good Luck,
Bob Kuperinsky


Re: Replacement azimuth clamps for 600E series

John Gleason
 

Ron,

Thank you for posting the pictures. Very informative. Need to look at
doing this for my 1200.

John Gleason, dvj@earthlink.net
http://www.celestialimage.com



----------
From: Ron Wodaski <ronw@nwlink.com>
To: ap-gto@egroups.com
Subject: [ap-gto] Replacement azimuth clamps for 600E series
Date: Saturday, March 25, 2000 11:08 AM

I have taken some pictures of the replacement clamps I installed on my AP
600 base. They work very well, and are really easy to install. You
probably
don't need detailed instructions, but I posted them anyway. The details
are
there so folks can see what the result is, and decide if it's worth
doing:

http://www.multimediamadness.net/wodaski/ap600clamp.htm

Links to the McMaster-Carr web site and to the catalog page where these
puppies are sold are on the page above.

Next project: those big bolts that lock down altitude adjustment. Anyone
happen to know the thread on those, to save me a trip to the hardware
store
to find out?

Ron Wodaski


------------------------------------------------------------------------
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Classmates.com has them all. And with 4.4 million alumni already
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