Date   

Re: This might be a stupid question - figured it out

John Gleason
 

Egad! That doesn't seem like a practical thing to do. I always put the cw
bar on first then attach the weights by sliding onto the shaft. So what
this implies that is that you have to load the shaft first, then attempt to
screw it with all that weight onto the mount? This simply can't be the
case. Please contact Astro Physics on Monday and find out if this is their
intention. Tell us it just isn't so. ;-0


John Gleason, dvj@earthlink.net
http://www.celestialimage.com



----------
From: Paul_Schroeder@datacard.com
To: ap-gto@egroups.com
Subject: [ap-gto] Re: This might be a stupid question - figured it out
Date: Sunday, March 26, 2000 4:57 AM



Hi Rich -

Thanks for your note. That wasn't the problem, but I did figure it out
this
morning (my initial theory of it being a stupid question was pretty spot
on!).

My mistake was trying to put the counterweight on _after_ already
threading the
counterweight shaft onto the mount. I didn't initially realize that the
counterweight shaft diameter gets noticably wider right at the end -- it
almost
makes the safety plug at the end redundant.

When I took the shaft off of the mount and tried putting the weight over
the
threaded end, it worked fine. It will slide freely up and down the shaft
until
it gets within about 1/2 inch of the bottom where it then stops (because
the
shaft is wider).

What I need to do is first put the weight on the shaft, and then thread
the
shaft into the mount. I've not encountered this on other mounts I've
used (my
other mount is a Vixen Great Polaris). As I intend to use a reasonably
wide
range of instrument weights on this, I suspect I'll get a fair amount of
practice threading and unthreading this shaft.

Thanks.

Paul









"Rich N." <rnapo@znet.com> on 03/26/2000 05:42:01 AM

Please respond to ap-gto@egroups.com





To: ap-gto@egroups.com

cc: (bcc: Paul Schroeder/US/DataCard)



Subject: [ap-gto] Re: This might be a stupid question . . .



Fax to:




Are you sure you have the set screw backed out all
the way? There is bronze "nose" that "floats" in the
hole. I always slide the weight on the shaft with the
knob on the weight pointing down so that this floating
bronze nose will stay clear of the shaft. Once the weight
is on the shaft I rotate the weight so the knob is on top.

Maybe there is a little burr in the hole where the bronze
nose stick through?

Rich


Hi all -

Well, my 600E GTO arrived from AP earlier this week-- it is absolutely
gorgeous
and very solid. Tonight the skies cleared up nicely, and I had hoped to
give it
a brief test drive.

Alas, I got tripped up by a fairly (very?) mundane problem.

Put simply, I couldn't get the 9 pound counterweight to slip over the
counterweight shaft. It was _incredibly_ tight. With maximum hand
pressure, I
couldn't get the shaft more than 1/4 inch into the counterweight.

The only conceivable way I could have gotten it in further would be to
do
some
serious banging with a rubber mallet. I didn't feel very comfortable
doing
this
with a brand new mount. As it was, it took both me and my son pulling
very
hard
to get the shaft out of the counterweight (even though it was only 1/4
inch
in!).

Are the counterweights normally this snug? Is there a break-in period
to
"loosen" the collar inside the counterweight, or does this sound
unusual?

I'll call AP on Monday, but if anyone had any suggestions maybe I could
try
again yet tonight (or tomorrow night).

Thanks and best regards,

Paul Schroeder



------------------------------------------------------------------------
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Re: This might be a stupid question - figured it out

Larry Denmark <kldenmark@...>
 

Hi Paul,

You did get it to work... but you also uncovered a flaw in the counterweight
shaft. You should have a shaft with a uniform diameter and you should have
no difficulty adding or removing counterweights with the shaft screwed
firmly into the mount. Get it replaced. There is no reason to have to
remove the shaft in order to remove or add weights.

BTW, If you are using a refractor, you might want to check out a minor
modification that I made to help balance the DEC. axis so that one can
easily switch from visual to photographic use of the telescope without
having to resort to sliding the OTA in the dovetail mount. Prior to that
modification, I found that adjusting the DEC. balance would throw off
critical polar alignment: but I don't have that problem any more. See:
http://home.att.net/~kldenmark/equipment/decbar.html

Regards,

Larry Denmark

E-mail . . . kldenmark@att.net
Web site . . http://home.att.net/~kldenmark/


Hi Rich -

Thanks for your note. That wasn't the problem, but I did figure it out
this
morning (my initial theory of it being a stupid question was pretty spot
on!).

My mistake was trying to put the counterweight on _after_ already
threading the
counterweight shaft onto the mount. I didn't initially realize that the
counterweight shaft diameter gets noticably wider right at the end -- it
almost
makes the safety plug at the end redundant.

When I took the shaft off of the mount and tried putting the weight over
the
threaded end, it worked fine. It will slide freely up and down the shaft
until
it gets within about 1/2 inch of the bottom where it then stops (because
the
shaft is wider).

What I need to do is first put the weight on the shaft, and then thread
the
shaft into the mount. I've not encountered this on other mounts I've used
(my
other mount is a Vixen Great Polaris). As I intend to use a reasonably
wide
range of instrument weights on this, I suspect I'll get a fair amount of
practice threading and unthreading this shaft.

Thanks.

Paul









"Rich N." <rnapo@znet.com> on 03/26/2000 05:42:01 AM

Please respond to ap-gto@egroups.com








To: ap-gto@egroups.com

cc: (bcc: Paul Schroeder/US/DataCard)



Subject: [ap-gto] Re: This might be a stupid question . . .



Fax to:




Are you sure you have the set screw backed out all
the way? There is bronze "nose" that "floats" in the
hole. I always slide the weight on the shaft with the
knob on the weight pointing down so that this floating
bronze nose will stay clear of the shaft. Once the weight
is on the shaft I rotate the weight so the knob is on top.

Maybe there is a little burr in the hole where the bronze
nose stick through?

Rich


Hi all -

Well, my 600E GTO arrived from AP earlier this week-- it is absolutely
gorgeous
and very solid. Tonight the skies cleared up nicely, and I had hoped to
give it
a brief test drive.

Alas, I got tripped up by a fairly (very?) mundane problem.

Put simply, I couldn't get the 9 pound counterweight to slip over the
counterweight shaft. It was _incredibly_ tight. With maximum hand
pressure, I
couldn't get the shaft more than 1/4 inch into the counterweight.

The only conceivable way I could have gotten it in further would be to do
some
serious banging with a rubber mallet. I didn't feel very comfortable
doing
this
with a brand new mount. As it was, it took both me and my son pulling
very
hard
to get the shaft out of the counterweight (even though it was only 1/4
inch
in!).

Are the counterweights normally this snug? Is there a break-in period to
"loosen" the collar inside the counterweight, or does this sound unusual?

I'll call AP on Monday, but if anyone had any suggestions maybe I could
try
again yet tonight (or tomorrow night).

Thanks and best regards,

Paul Schroeder



------------------------------------------------------------------------
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Re: This might be a stupid question - figured it out

ericj <ericj@...>
 

Hi Paul:

I have only had my 900 GTO for a little over a week and only had a chance to
use it once but have a suggestion for you. I thread the counterweight shaft
on first, then slide the counterweights on. I found that although I had
loosened the counterweight knob , if the counterweights were facing up, the
brass pin would slide down and get in the way of sliding the counterweights
up the shaft. So I just rotated the counterweights so that they faced
downward and gravity would cause the brass pin to slide out of the way. Once
the counterweights were on the shaft I just rotated them around so that the
knobs are at a more convenient position for me to adjust.

Hope this helps,

Eric

planetary and comet drawings at:
http://www.metro2000.net/~ericj

Paul Schroeder wrote:

-----Original Message-----
From: Paul_Schroeder@datacard.com <Paul_Schroeder@datacard.com>
To: ap-gto@egroups.com <ap-gto@egroups.com>
Date: Sunday, March 26, 2000 7:35 AM
Subject: [ap-gto] Re: This might be a stupid question - figured it out




Hi Rich -

Thanks for your note. That wasn't the problem, but I did figure it out
this
morning (my initial theory of it being a stupid question was pretty spot
on!).

My mistake was trying to put the counterweight on _after_ already threading
the
counterweight shaft onto the mount. I didn't initially realize that the
counterweight shaft diameter gets noticably wider right at the end -- it
almost
makes the safety plug at the end redundant.

When I took the shaft off of the mount and tried putting the weight over
the
threaded end, it worked fine. It will slide freely up and down the shaft
until
it gets within about 1/2 inch of the bottom where it then stops (because
the
shaft is wider).

What I need to do is first put the weight on the shaft, and then thread the
shaft into the mount. I've not encountered this on other mounts I've used
(my
other mount is a Vixen Great Polaris). As I intend to use a reasonably
wide
range of instrument weights on this, I suspect I'll get a fair amount of
practice threading and unthreading this shaft.

Thanks.

Paul









"Rich N." <rnapo@znet.com> on 03/26/2000 05:42:01 AM

Please respond to ap-gto@egroups.com








To: ap-gto@egroups.com

cc: (bcc: Paul Schroeder/US/DataCard)



Subject: [ap-gto] Re: This might be a stupid question . . .



Fax to:




Are you sure you have the set screw backed out all
the way? There is bronze "nose" that "floats" in the
hole. I always slide the weight on the shaft with the
knob on the weight pointing down so that this floating
bronze nose will stay clear of the shaft. Once the weight
is on the shaft I rotate the weight so the knob is on top.

Maybe there is a little burr in the hole where the bronze
nose stick through?

Rich


Hi all -

Well, my 600E GTO arrived from AP earlier this week-- it is absolutely
gorgeous
and very solid. Tonight the skies cleared up nicely, and I had hoped to
give it
a brief test drive.

Alas, I got tripped up by a fairly (very?) mundane problem.

Put simply, I couldn't get the 9 pound counterweight to slip over the
counterweight shaft. It was _incredibly_ tight. With maximum hand
pressure, I
couldn't get the shaft more than 1/4 inch into the counterweight.

The only conceivable way I could have gotten it in further would be to do
some
serious banging with a rubber mallet. I didn't feel very comfortable
doing
this
with a brand new mount. As it was, it took both me and my son pulling
very
hard
to get the shaft out of the counterweight (even though it was only 1/4
inch
in!).

Are the counterweights normally this snug? Is there a break-in period to
"loosen" the collar inside the counterweight, or does this sound unusual?

I'll call AP on Monday, but if anyone had any suggestions maybe I could
try
again yet tonight (or tomorrow night).

Thanks and best regards,

Paul Schroeder



------------------------------------------------------------------------
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New member: AP GTO on Parallax mount

Mike Mah
 

Hello everybody,

I've just joined and I find these postings useful and informative. I
hope I can find help for some questions:

I have an AP155 EDFS with piggybacked Tak FSQ106 on a pier mounted
Parallax Series 125 with AP GTO v2.6. I have acquired these recently
and have only used this setup a few times, so that I have more
equipment than experience. I am waiting for an AP1200 mount, to which I
will move the AP155.

With mount level and after proper polar alignment using the Polaris
routine, I have noticed that occasionally objects are indicated as
below the horizon when they are not. For example, last night at about
9:30 pm the Orion Nebula was indicated to be below the horizon when it
was not, and I could goto Betelgeuse. Did I miss something in the
manual on the GTO keypad controller about the horizon?

When I tried to goto M81, I had to stop the slewing as the scope was
going to hit the pier. What angle does the safety zone number (0-20)
refer to? Degrees from the polar axis so that the safety zone is a cone
(or circle on the sky)? Is this then a blind spot that the scope can't
access?

Thanks,

Mike Mah


Re: This might be a stupid question - figured it out

paul_schroeder@...
 

Hi Rich -

Thanks for your note. That wasn't the problem, but I did figure it out this
morning (my initial theory of it being a stupid question was pretty spot on!).

My mistake was trying to put the counterweight on _after_ already threading the
counterweight shaft onto the mount. I didn't initially realize that the
counterweight shaft diameter gets noticably wider right at the end -- it almost
makes the safety plug at the end redundant.

When I took the shaft off of the mount and tried putting the weight over the
threaded end, it worked fine. It will slide freely up and down the shaft until
it gets within about 1/2 inch of the bottom where it then stops (because the
shaft is wider).

What I need to do is first put the weight on the shaft, and then thread the
shaft into the mount. I've not encountered this on other mounts I've used (my
other mount is a Vixen Great Polaris). As I intend to use a reasonably wide
range of instrument weights on this, I suspect I'll get a fair amount of
practice threading and unthreading this shaft.

Thanks.

Paul









"Rich N." <rnapo@znet.com> on 03/26/2000 05:42:01 AM

Please respond to ap-gto@egroups.com








To: ap-gto@egroups.com

cc: (bcc: Paul Schroeder/US/DataCard)



Subject: [ap-gto] Re: This might be a stupid question . . .



Fax to:




Are you sure you have the set screw backed out all
the way? There is bronze "nose" that "floats" in the
hole. I always slide the weight on the shaft with the
knob on the weight pointing down so that this floating
bronze nose will stay clear of the shaft. Once the weight
is on the shaft I rotate the weight so the knob is on top.

Maybe there is a little burr in the hole where the bronze
nose stick through?

Rich


Hi all -

Well, my 600E GTO arrived from AP earlier this week-- it is absolutely
gorgeous
and very solid. Tonight the skies cleared up nicely, and I had hoped to
give it
a brief test drive.

Alas, I got tripped up by a fairly (very?) mundane problem.

Put simply, I couldn't get the 9 pound counterweight to slip over the
counterweight shaft. It was _incredibly_ tight. With maximum hand
pressure, I
couldn't get the shaft more than 1/4 inch into the counterweight.

The only conceivable way I could have gotten it in further would be to do
some
serious banging with a rubber mallet. I didn't feel very comfortable doing
this
with a brand new mount. As it was, it took both me and my son pulling very
hard
to get the shaft out of the counterweight (even though it was only 1/4 inch
in!).

Are the counterweights normally this snug? Is there a break-in period to
"loosen" the collar inside the counterweight, or does this sound unusual?

I'll call AP on Monday, but if anyone had any suggestions maybe I could try
again yet tonight (or tomorrow night).

Thanks and best regards,

Paul Schroeder



------------------------------------------------------------------------
Good friends, school spirit, hair-dos you'd like to forget.
Classmates.com has them all. And with 4.4 million alumni already
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Re: This might be a stupid question . . .

Rich N. <rnapo@...>
 

Are you sure you have the set screw backed out all
the way? There is bronze "nose" that "floats" in the
hole. I always slide the weight on the shaft with the
knob on the weight pointing down so that this floating
bronze nose will stay clear of the shaft. Once the weight
is on the shaft I rotate the weight so the knob is on top.

Maybe there is a little burr in the hole where the bronze
nose stick through?

Rich


Hi all -

Well, my 600E GTO arrived from AP earlier this week-- it is absolutely
gorgeous
and very solid. Tonight the skies cleared up nicely, and I had hoped to
give it
a brief test drive.

Alas, I got tripped up by a fairly (very?) mundane problem.

Put simply, I couldn't get the 9 pound counterweight to slip over the
counterweight shaft. It was _incredibly_ tight. With maximum hand
pressure, I
couldn't get the shaft more than 1/4 inch into the counterweight.

The only conceivable way I could have gotten it in further would be to do
some
serious banging with a rubber mallet. I didn't feel very comfortable doing
this
with a brand new mount. As it was, it took both me and my son pulling very
hard
to get the shaft out of the counterweight (even though it was only 1/4 inch
in!).

Are the counterweights normally this snug? Is there a break-in period to
"loosen" the collar inside the counterweight, or does this sound unusual?

I'll call AP on Monday, but if anyone had any suggestions maybe I could try
again yet tonight (or tomorrow night).

Thanks and best regards,

Paul Schroeder



------------------------------------------------------------------------
Good friends, school spirit, hair-dos you'd like to forget.
Classmates.com has them all. And with 4.4 million alumni already
registered, there's a good chance you'll find your friends here:
http://click.egroups.com/1/2637/3/_/3615/_/954043411/

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-- http://www.egroups.com/docvault/ap-gto/?m=1


Re: This might be a stupid question . . .

BKuperinsk@...
 

In a message dated 3/25/00 11:03:51 PM Eastern Standard Time,
Paul_Schroeder@datacard.com writes:

Hi all -

Well, my 600E GTO arrived from AP earlier this week-- it is absolutely
gorgeous
and very solid. Tonight the skies cleared up nicely, and I had hoped to
give it
a brief test drive.

Alas, I got tripped up by a fairly (very?) mundane problem.

Put simply, I couldn't get the 9 pound counterweight to slip over the
counterweight shaft. It was _incredibly_ tight. With maximum hand
pressure,
I
couldn't get the shaft more than 1/4 inch into the counterweight.

The only conceivable way I could have gotten it in further would be to do
some
serious banging with a rubber mallet. I didn't feel very comfortable
doing
this
with a brand new mount. As it was, it took both me and my son pulling
very
hard
to get the shaft out of the counterweight (even though it was only 1/4 inch
in!).

Are the counterweights normally this snug? Is there a break-in period to
"loosen" the collar inside the counterweight, or does this sound unusual?

I'll call AP on Monday, but if anyone had any suggestions maybe I could try
again yet tonight (or tomorrow night).

Thanks and best regards,

Paul Schroeder

I also received a new AP mount last week. It was a 900 GTO. The 18 lb.
counter wts that I used for a few years with my 900 QMD were also very tight
on the new mount's counter wt. shaft but they do slide on with a back and
forth rotation. A lite work out with a little grit cloth did the trick. Other
than polish the brass surface there is no evidence of my major field
modification : )

Good Luck,
Bob Kuperinsky


Re: Replacement azimuth clamps for 600E series

John Gleason
 

Ron,

Thank you for posting the pictures. Very informative. Need to look at
doing this for my 1200.

John Gleason, dvj@earthlink.net
http://www.celestialimage.com



----------
From: Ron Wodaski <ronw@nwlink.com>
To: ap-gto@egroups.com
Subject: [ap-gto] Replacement azimuth clamps for 600E series
Date: Saturday, March 25, 2000 11:08 AM

I have taken some pictures of the replacement clamps I installed on my AP
600 base. They work very well, and are really easy to install. You
probably
don't need detailed instructions, but I posted them anyway. The details
are
there so folks can see what the result is, and decide if it's worth
doing:

http://www.multimediamadness.net/wodaski/ap600clamp.htm

Links to the McMaster-Carr web site and to the catalog page where these
puppies are sold are on the page above.

Next project: those big bolts that lock down altitude adjustment. Anyone
happen to know the thread on those, to save me a trip to the hardware
store
to find out?

Ron Wodaski


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Re: This might be a stupid question . . .

John Gleason
 

Paul,

The counterweights should slide on and off easily without any force.
Defective! Ha, Roland may have his first recall. Could be many more are
too tight.

John Gleason, dvj@earthlink.net
http://www.celestialimage.com



----------
From: Paul_Schroeder@datacard.com
To: ap-gto@egroups.com
Subject: [ap-gto] This might be a stupid question . . .
Date: Saturday, March 25, 2000 8:01 PM



Hi all -

Well, my 600E GTO arrived from AP earlier this week-- it is absolutely
gorgeous
and very solid. Tonight the skies cleared up nicely, and I had hoped to
give it
a brief test drive.

Alas, I got tripped up by a fairly (very?) mundane problem.

Put simply, I couldn't get the 9 pound counterweight to slip over the
counterweight shaft. It was _incredibly_ tight. With maximum hand
pressure, I
couldn't get the shaft more than 1/4 inch into the counterweight.

The only conceivable way I could have gotten it in further would be to do
some
serious banging with a rubber mallet. I didn't feel very comfortable
doing this
with a brand new mount. As it was, it took both me and my son pulling
very hard
to get the shaft out of the counterweight (even though it was only 1/4
inch
in!).

Are the counterweights normally this snug? Is there a break-in period to
"loosen" the collar inside the counterweight, or does this sound unusual?

I'll call AP on Monday, but if anyone had any suggestions maybe I could
try
again yet tonight (or tomorrow night).

Thanks and best regards,

Paul Schroeder



------------------------------------------------------------------------
Good friends, school spirit, hair-dos you'd like to forget.
Classmates.com has them all. And with 4.4 million alumni already
registered, there's a good chance you'll find your friends here:
http://click.egroups.com/1/2637/3/_/3615/_/954043411/

-- 20 megs of disk space in your group's Document Vault
-- http://www.egroups.com/docvault/ap-gto/?m=1


This might be a stupid question . . .

paul_schroeder@...
 

Hi all -

Well, my 600E GTO arrived from AP earlier this week-- it is absolutely gorgeous
and very solid. Tonight the skies cleared up nicely, and I had hoped to give it
a brief test drive.

Alas, I got tripped up by a fairly (very?) mundane problem.

Put simply, I couldn't get the 9 pound counterweight to slip over the
counterweight shaft. It was _incredibly_ tight. With maximum hand pressure, I
couldn't get the shaft more than 1/4 inch into the counterweight.

The only conceivable way I could have gotten it in further would be to do some
serious banging with a rubber mallet. I didn't feel very comfortable doing this
with a brand new mount. As it was, it took both me and my son pulling very hard
to get the shaft out of the counterweight (even though it was only 1/4 inch
in!).

Are the counterweights normally this snug? Is there a break-in period to
"loosen" the collar inside the counterweight, or does this sound unusual?

I'll call AP on Monday, but if anyone had any suggestions maybe I could try
again yet tonight (or tomorrow night).

Thanks and best regards,

Paul Schroeder


Re: FW: (SBIGUSER) Takahashi Mounts

Chris Spratt
 

Such a good and functional idea that I wonder why Roland didn't
incorporate this into the 600E's design.

"jeffrey d. gortatowsky" <myrocketcato-@iname.com> wrote:
original article:http://www.egroups.com/group/ap-gto/?start=432
Hi Ron,

Glad my 'idea' (well supplier anyway) worked out! :) Maybe they
should be
'standard' with all 600's?

Clear skies,
Jeff


----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron Wodaski" <ronw@nwlink.com>
To: <ap-gto@eGroups.com>
Sent: Friday, March 24, 2000 3:30 PM
Subject: [ap-gto] Re: FW: (SBIGUSER) Takahashi Mounts


I received the bat-wing handles from McMaster-Carr today. Part
number
6848K36 works very well, and I will have images up shortly showing
what it
is and how it works out. Briefly, it has threads that match the
AP-supplied
<snip>


Re: Replacement azimuth clamps for 600E series

Stephen E. Russell <sjruss55@...>
 

Hi Ron,
The manual says M12, but not sure of the pitch if it might be fine or not.
So far I managed to keep the right tension on them where I can adjust the
altitude fairly easily. But this might be a good way to eliminate another
Allen wrench.
Does McMaster Carr have anything in SS this large?
I like the "bat handles" you found.
I wait for you to get the other parts, then I'll order some.
Thanks for nice visual instructions.
Stephen

-----Original Message-----
From: Ron Wodaski <ronw@nwlink.com>
To: ap-gto@egroups.com <ap-gto@egroups.com>
Date: Saturday, March 25, 2000 1:07 PM
Subject: [ap-gto] Replacement azimuth clamps for 600E series


I have taken some pictures of the replacement clamps I installed on my AP
600 base. They work very well, and are really easy to install. You probably
don't need detailed instructions, but I posted them anyway. The details are
there so folks can see what the result is, and decide if it's worth doing:

http://www.multimediamadness.net/wodaski/ap600clamp.htm

Links to the McMaster-Carr web site and to the catalog page where these
puppies are sold are on the page above.

Next project: those big bolts that lock down altitude adjustment. Anyone
happen to know the thread on those, to save me a trip to the hardware store
to find out?

Ron Wodaski


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Re: Fine adjustments to 600E GTO

Stephen E. Russell <sjruss55@...>
 

Hi Larry,
Looks like another reason for me to get a pier, oh darn :-)
Stephen

-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Fakatselis <jfakatse@optonline.net>
To: ap-gto@egroups.com <ap-gto@egroups.com>
Date: Saturday, March 25, 2000 10:10 AM
Subject: [ap-gto] Re: Fine adjustments to 600E GTO


That's a good method but performing that same adjustment to the wooden
tripod is
not the same!
Jim

Larry Denmark wrote:

Greetings,

I've been following the discussion on tightening the 600E mount to it's
base
plate during final stages of polar alignment. For those of us who use a
portable pier, fine adjustment is extremely easy to do.

After performing the initial gross alignment, simply tighten the two
screws
by any means you like - either singly or in unison, it doesn't matter -
and
then bring Polaris dead center by making fine adjustments to the
turnbuckles
on the tensioning rods that give the pier it's stability.

I think it was a suggestion that Marj made some time ago and I've been
doing
that, successfully, for many months.

Larry Denmark

E-mail . . . kldenmark@att.net
Web site . . http://home.att.net/~kldenmark/

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Re: FW: (SBIGUSER) Takahashi Mounts

Jeffrey D. Gortatowsky
 

Hi Ron,

Glad my 'idea' (well supplier anyway) worked out! :) Maybe they should be
'standard' with all 600's?

Clear skies,
Jeff

----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron Wodaski" <ronw@nwlink.com>
To: <ap-gto@eGroups.com>
Sent: Friday, March 24, 2000 3:30 PM
Subject: [ap-gto] Re: FW: (SBIGUSER) Takahashi Mounts


I received the bat-wing handles from McMaster-Carr today. Part number
6848K36 works very well, and I will have images up shortly showing what it
is and how it works out. Briefly, it has threads that match the
AP-supplied
<snip>


Re: AP 1200 GTO MegaStar/Sky Interface

Dan Knauss <dknauss@...>
 

Thanks Ron. By the way, your web page on replacing the azimuth screws
is very easily understood.

Dan Knauss

----- Original Message -----
From: Ron Wodaski <ronw@nwlink.com>
To: <ap-gto@egroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 25, 2000 12:09 PM
Subject: [ap-gto] Re: AP 1200 GTO MegaStar/Sky Interface


I use The Sky, and I set it to LX200 and it works fine with the GTO
series.

Ron Wodaski


operating problems

colt <colt@...>
 

New guy again,

I spent a little time reviewing some of the past postings, and
judging from what I've read, there sure aren't many problems
to contend with on any of the A.P. mounts.
I suppose I should have assumed such from the A.P.product line.

I read about a few software bugs or problems. Are all of
these issues fixed in the 2000 models?

Is there a preferred microphone?

Colt Bednorz


Re: AP 1200 GTO MegaStar/Sky Interface

Ron Wodaski <ronw@...>
 

I use The Sky, and I set it to LX200 and it works fine with the GTO series.

Ron Wodaski

-----Original Message-----
From: Dan Knauss [mailto:dknauss@azstarnet.com]
Sent: Saturday, March 25, 2000 11:04 AM
To: ap-gto@egroups.com
Subject: [ap-gto] AP 1200 GTO MegaStar/Sky Interface


Does anyone know whether MegaStar V4.0 will interface with the AP
1200GTO Mount? (The users' manual lists only the LX 200, NGC Max, and Sky
Commander).

Does the 1200GTO interface with the Sky by Software Bisque? If so, how
does this work? I assume that you connect one of the 1220GTO RSC 232 ports
with a serial port of your computer.

Dan Knauss


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Replacement azimuth clamps for 600E series

Ron Wodaski <ronw@...>
 

I have taken some pictures of the replacement clamps I installed on my AP
600 base. They work very well, and are really easy to install. You probably
don't need detailed instructions, but I posted them anyway. The details are
there so folks can see what the result is, and decide if it's worth doing:

http://www.multimediamadness.net/wodaski/ap600clamp.htm

Links to the McMaster-Carr web site and to the catalog page where these
puppies are sold are on the page above.

Next project: those big bolts that lock down altitude adjustment. Anyone
happen to know the thread on those, to save me a trip to the hardware store
to find out?

Ron Wodaski


AP 1200 GTO MegaStar/Sky Interface

Dan Knauss <dknauss@...>
 

Does anyone know whether MegaStar V4.0 will interface with the AP
1200GTO Mount? (The users' manual lists only the LX 200, NGC Max, and Sky
Commander).

Does the 1200GTO interface with the Sky by Software Bisque? If so, how
does this work? I assume that you connect one of the 1220GTO RSC 232 ports
with a serial port of your computer.

Dan Knauss


Re: Fine adjustments to 600E GTO

Jim Fakatselis <jfakatse@...>
 

That's a good method but performing that same adjustment to the wooden tripod is
not the same!
Jim

Larry Denmark wrote:

Greetings,

I've been following the discussion on tightening the 600E mount to it's base
plate during final stages of polar alignment. For those of us who use a
portable pier, fine adjustment is extremely easy to do.

After performing the initial gross alignment, simply tighten the two screws
by any means you like - either singly or in unison, it doesn't matter - and
then bring Polaris dead center by making fine adjustments to the turnbuckles
on the tensioning rods that give the pier it's stability.

I think it was a suggestion that Marj made some time ago and I've been doing
that, successfully, for many months.

Larry Denmark

E-mail . . . kldenmark@att.net
Web site . . http://home.att.net/~kldenmark/

------------------------------------------------------------------------
Good friends, school spirit, hair-dos you'd like to forget.
Classmates.com has them all. And with 4.4 million alumni already
registered, there's a good chance you'll find your friends here:
http://click.egroups.com/1/2637/3/_/3615/_/954000210/

-- Talk to your group with your own voice!
-- http://www.egroups.com/VoiceChatPage?listName=ap-gto&m=1