Date   

Re: Help - Counterweight shaft stuck to Mach 1 counterweight adapter.

Joe Mize
 

Or wrap a couple round of Teflon Tape onto the threads....joe :)


"May You Go Among The Imperishable Stars"
Joe Mize www.cav-sfo.com
Chiefland Astronomy Village, Fla.

----- Original Message -----
From: "Rich N" <rnapo@znet.com>
To: <ap-gto@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, June 09, 2008 1:34 AM
Subject: Re: [ap-gto] Help - Counterweight shaft stuck to Mach 1 counterweight adapter.


Sorry about the "empty post".

Once you get the shaft un-stuck, a little Chapstick on the threads
works wonders.

Rich

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Re: AP 1200 - motor gearbox housing noise

michael mcdermott <classicstone9474@...>
 

I too get concerned about noises and jerky movements when my slew rates are below the 12 setting. The jerky movements (reminds me of teaching my daughter how to drive a manual.) and grind noise do not happen when setting is above 12. The worst is at 1. I have greased the gears and it doesn't improve. It only happens in the Declination gear box. I have no idea why this happens. I just don't use the 1 setting for fear of ruining my 1200 mount! I have checked the mesh and it is not too tight or loose.Just how far can these gears and etc. in these gear boxes be broken down for maintenance. Something is causing this, my mount is less than 2 years old. In a message dated 6/6/2008 2:42:37 PM Central Daylight Time,
chris1011@aol.com writes:

Does
your mount(every mount) make this noises too ?
Every mount makes some kind of noise. If you wand, just put a bit of light
white lithium grease on the spur gears (take the motor cover off). You can
also
grease the ponions.
Make that: grease the pinions.

**************
Get trade secrets for amazing
burgers. Watch "Cooking with Tyler Florence" on AOL Food.

(http://food.aol.com/tyler-florence?video=4?&;NCID=aolfod00030000000002)


Re: Help - Counterweight shaft stuck to Mach 1 counterweight adapter.

Rich N <rnapo@...>
 

Sorry about the "empty post".

Once you get the shaft un-stuck, a little Chapstick on the threads
works wonders.

Rich


Re: Help - Counterweight shaft stuck to Mach 1 counterweight adapter.

Rich N <rnapo@...>
 

----- Original Message -----
From: "Joseph Zeglinski" <J.Zeglinski@rogers.com>
To: <ap-gto@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, June 08, 2008 9:25 PM
Subject: Re: [ap-gto] Help - Counterweight shaft stuck to Mach 1 counterweight adapter.


Hi Terry,
Same thing happened to me on my brand new AP-900.
It seems that the adapter isn't torqued strongly enough during assembly. Luckily, I didn't screw in the shaft too tightly, and this was in the house, rather than in sunlight.
I suggested to AP that they apply a bit more pressure on the adapter with their wrench, during final assembly. I think mine was barely finger tight - I figured mine was an exception, possibly something missed in QA before shipment.
Second suggestion was to add a Teflon washer to the threaded end of the counterweight bar, so that the bar and adapter don't seize together in a death grip, as has happened in your (and my) case.
In your case, have you tried a fine machine oil, to see if it would unlock the two pars? WD-40 might work, but don't keep it on very long, since it is mildly corrosive - then again, it really shouldn't mar a black anodized part.
If the Mach1 adapter is like the AP-900, you might be able to fashion a "huge spanner wrench". My adapter has two diametrically opposed holes (about 1/4" diameter) for AP's spanner. Take a length of 2x4 (say a couple of feet long). Drive two heavy nails, along the length, into the end to fit into the "spanner holes" of the adapter. Or, a couple of machine screws bolted through the 2x4, and into the adapter (flange) with rubber or plastic washers under the nuts to prevent marring the adapter - this would be a very solid spanner, where the nails might just twist under torque.
With the shaft covered in rubber, cork, or some other protective material, locked in a vice, try to use the 2x4 to twist off the adapter. A 2 foot length of 2x4 should give you plenty of leverage.
That's what I would do to mine, if it ever locked again. I'm still looking for a suitable diameter Teflon washer, but even a margarine tub lid cut to size, will do in the short term. Perhaps AP, on request, could mail their customers a couple of these Teflon washers, to prevent future lock ups.
Good luck,
Joe
----- Original Message -----
From: "TerryLO" <terry@onset.com>
To: <ap-gto@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, June 08, 2008 11:48 PM
Subject: [ap-gto] Help - Counterweight shaft stuck to Mach 1 counterweight adapter.
I need some assistance. My counterweight shaft (1.875" x 10.7")
is "stuck tight" in the Mach 1 counterweight adapter (the part of the
Dec. Axis portion into which the counterweight shaft is threaded).
The shaft is attached externally (in its normal use position) to the
adapter and not internally (in its optional storage position).
At a public star party Saturday evening, I set up the Mach 1 for use
about an hour before sunset. I hand-screwed the counterweight shaft
into the Mach 1 counterweight adapter and stopped when snug-tight as
usual. (It was in direct sunlight on a warm evening.) When I
dissembled the scope, mount and tripod about 1:00 AM Sunday morning
to go home, I noticed that when I unscrewed the counterweight shaft,
the counterweight adapter unscrewed from the mount attached to the
counterweight shaft.
Not thinking that anything significant was amiss, I wrapped the shaft
and the attached counterweight adapter in large sheet of bubble wrap,
placed in a carrying case and drove home, thinking I would make
everything nice during my usual morning-after clean-up.
But alas, the shaft will not cooperate and separate from the adapter.
I tried several things (using the screw head in the center of the
shaft with an Allen wrench for leverage; soaking the shaft in ice
water while keeping the adapter warm, having two people try to turn
the parts free;.) but nothing has worked. I am cautious about getting
too aggressive with the adapter for fear of damage or disfigurement.
I now have a pretty black machined aluminum adapter firmly apart of
my counterweight shaft and a large opening on the Mach 1. It is
possible to be could used like this (the adapter does have thread
that screw into the body of the Mach 1). But I don't think the
delicate threads of the adapter are meant for frequent use in the
field, it leaves a large opening for dirt on the mount, and it makes
storage of the counterweight shaft awkward.
So.
First, Roland, Wally, other Mach 1 users, what should I do?
Second, have others had this problem with their Mach 1? (I have not
had this problem in 7 years of use of my 600EGTO, but then it is
constructed with different materials and machining than the Mach 1.)
Third, what should be done to prevent this in the future? (E.g. Not
allowing the shaft/adapter to get direct sunlight? Put a washer on
the end of the shaft to allow some play? Get a modified Mach 1
adapter? .)
Thanks for your help
Terry Opdendyk
------------------------------------
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see http://groups.yahoo.com/group/ap-gtoYahoo! Groups Links


Re: Help - Counterweight shaft stuck to Mach 1 counterweight adapter.

Joe Zeglinski
 

Hi Terry,

Same thing happened to me on my brand new AP-900.
It seems that the adapter isn't torqued strongly enough during assembly. Luckily, I didn't screw in the shaft too tightly, and this was in the house, rather than in sunlight.

I suggested to AP that they apply a bit more pressure on the adapter with their wrench, during final assembly. I think mine was barely finger tight - I figured mine was an exception, possibly something missed in QA before shipment.

Second suggestion was to add a Teflon washer to the threaded end of the counterweight bar, so that the bar and adapter don't seize together in a death grip, as has happened in your (and my) case.

In your case, have you tried a fine machine oil, to see if it would unlock the two pars? WD-40 might work, but don't keep it on very long, since it is mildly corrosive - then again, it really shouldn't mar a black anodized part.

If the Mach1 adapter is like the AP-900, you might be able to fashion a "huge spanner wrench". My adapter has two diametrically opposed holes (about 1/4" diameter) for AP's spanner. Take a length of 2x4 (say a couple of feet long). Drive two heavy nails, along the length, into the end to fit into the "spanner holes" of the adapter. Or, a couple of machine screws bolted through the 2x4, and into the adapter (flange) with rubber or plastic washers under the nuts to prevent marring the adapter - this would be a very solid spanner, where the nails might just twist under torque.

With the shaft covered in rubber, cork, or some other protective material, locked in a vice, try to use the 2x4 to twist off the adapter. A 2 foot length of 2x4 should give you plenty of leverage.

That's what I would do to mine, if it ever locked again. I'm still looking for a suitable diameter Teflon washer, but even a margarine tub lid cut to size, will do in the short term. Perhaps AP, on request, could mail their customers a couple of these Teflon washers, to prevent future lock ups.

Good luck,
Joe

----- Original Message -----
From: "TerryLO" <terry@onset.com>
To: <ap-gto@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, June 08, 2008 11:48 PM
Subject: [ap-gto] Help - Counterweight shaft stuck to Mach 1 counterweight adapter.


I need some assistance. My counterweight shaft (1.875" x 10.7")
is "stuck tight" in the Mach 1 counterweight adapter (the part of the
Dec. Axis portion into which the counterweight shaft is threaded).
The shaft is attached externally (in its normal use position) to the
adapter and not internally (in its optional storage position).

At a public star party Saturday evening, I set up the Mach 1 for use
about an hour before sunset. I hand-screwed the counterweight shaft
into the Mach 1 counterweight adapter and stopped when snug-tight as
usual. (It was in direct sunlight on a warm evening.) When I
dissembled the scope, mount and tripod about 1:00 AM Sunday morning
to go home, I noticed that when I unscrewed the counterweight shaft,
the counterweight adapter unscrewed from the mount attached to the
counterweight shaft.

Not thinking that anything significant was amiss, I wrapped the shaft
and the attached counterweight adapter in large sheet of bubble wrap,
placed in a carrying case and drove home, thinking I would make
everything nice during my usual morning-after clean-up.

But alas, the shaft will not cooperate and separate from the adapter.
I tried several things (using the screw head in the center of the
shaft with an Allen wrench for leverage; soaking the shaft in ice
water while keeping the adapter warm, having two people try to turn
the parts free;.) but nothing has worked. I am cautious about getting
too aggressive with the adapter for fear of damage or disfigurement.

I now have a pretty black machined aluminum adapter firmly apart of
my counterweight shaft and a large opening on the Mach 1. It is
possible to be could used like this (the adapter does have thread
that screw into the body of the Mach 1). But I don't think the
delicate threads of the adapter are meant for frequent use in the
field, it leaves a large opening for dirt on the mount, and it makes
storage of the counterweight shaft awkward.

So.

First, Roland, Wally, other Mach 1 users, what should I do?

Second, have others had this problem with their Mach 1? (I have not
had this problem in 7 years of use of my 600EGTO, but then it is
constructed with different materials and machining than the Mach 1.)

Third, what should be done to prevent this in the future? (E.g. Not
allowing the shaft/adapter to get direct sunlight? Put a washer on
the end of the shaft to allow some play? Get a modified Mach 1
adapter? .)

Thanks for your help

Terry Opdendyk



------------------------------------

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see http://groups.yahoo.com/group/ap-gtoYahoo! Groups Links


Re: Help – Counterweight shaft stuck to Mach 1 counterweight adapter.

MrGrytt
 

--- In ap-gto@yahoogroups.com, "TerryLO" <terry@...> wrote:

I need some assistance. My counterweight shaft (1.875" x 10.7")
is "stuck tight" in the Mach 1 counterweight adapter (the part of the
Dec. Axis portion into which the counterweight shaft is threaded).
The shaft is attached externally (in its normal use position) to the
adapter and not internally (in its optional storage position).

At a public star party Saturday evening, I set up the Mach 1 for use
about an hour before sunset. I hand-screwed the counterweight shaft
into the Mach 1 counterweight adapter and stopped when snug-tight as
usual. (It was in direct sunlight on a warm evening.) When I
dissembled the scope, mount and tripod about 1:00 AM Sunday morning
to go home, I noticed that when I unscrewed the counterweight shaft,
the counterweight adapter unscrewed from the mount attached to the
counterweight shaft.

Not thinking that anything significant was amiss, I wrapped the shaft
and the attached counterweight adapter in large sheet of bubble wrap,
placed in a carrying case and drove home, thinking I would make
everything nice during my usual morning-after clean-up.

But alas, the shaft will not cooperate and separate from the adapter.
I tried several things (using the screw head in the center of the
shaft with an Allen wrench for leverage; soaking the shaft in ice
water while keeping the adapter warm, having two people try to turn
the parts free;…) but nothing has worked. I am cautious about getting
too aggressive with the adapter for fear of damage or disfigurement.

I now have a pretty black machined aluminum adapter firmly apart of
my counterweight shaft and a large opening on the Mach 1. It is
possible to be could used like this (the adapter does have thread
that screw into the body of the Mach 1). But I don't think the
delicate threads of the adapter are meant for frequent use in the
field, it leaves a large opening for dirt on the mount, and it makes
storage of the counterweight shaft awkward.

So…

First, Roland, Wally, other Mach 1 users, what should I do?

Second, have others had this problem with their Mach 1? (I have not
had this problem in 7 years of use of my 600EGTO, but then it is
constructed with different materials and machining than the Mach 1.)

Third, what should be done to prevent this in the future? (E.g. Not
allowing the shaft/adapter to get direct sunlight? Put a washer on
the end of the shaft to allow some play? Get a modified Mach 1
adapter? …)

Thanks for your help

Terry Opdendyk


Re: Help – Counterweight shaft stuck to Mach 1 counterweight adapter.

chris provost <lineman_16735@...>
 

Get yourself two strap type wrenches.&nbsp; That should do the trick.&nbsp;
&nbsp;
Chris

--- On Sun, 6/8/08, TerryLO <terry@onset.com> wrote:

From: TerryLO <terry@onset.com>
Subject: [ap-gto] Help – Counterweight shaft stuck to Mach 1 counterweight adapter.
To: ap-gto@yahoogroups.com
Date: Sunday, June 8, 2008, 11:48 PM






I need some assistance. My counterweight shaft (1.875" x 10.7")
is "stuck tight" in the Mach 1 counterweight adapter (the part of the
Dec. Axis portion into which the counterweight shaft is threaded).
The shaft is attached externally (in its normal use position) to the
adapter and not internally (in its optional storage position).

At a public star party Saturday evening, I set up the Mach 1 for use
about an hour before sunset. I hand-screwed the counterweight shaft
into the Mach 1 counterweight adapter and stopped when snug-tight as
usual. (It was in direct sunlight on a warm evening.) When I
dissembled the scope, mount and tripod about 1:00 AM Sunday morning
to go home, I noticed that when I unscrewed the counterweight shaft,
the counterweight adapter unscrewed from the mount attached to the
counterweight shaft.

Not thinking that anything significant was amiss, I wrapped the shaft
and the attached counterweight adapter in large sheet of bubble wrap,
placed in a carrying case and drove home, thinking I would make
everything nice during my usual morning-after clean-up.

But alas, the shaft will not cooperate and separate from the adapter.
I tried several things (using the screw head in the center of the
shaft with an Allen wrench for leverage; soaking the shaft in ice
water while keeping the adapter warm, having two people try to turn
the parts free;…) but nothing has worked. I am cautious about getting
too aggressive with the adapter for fear of damage or disfigurement.

I now have a pretty black machined aluminum adapter firmly apart of
my counterweight shaft and a large opening on the Mach 1. It is
possible to be could used like this (the adapter does have thread
that screw into the body of the Mach 1). But I don't think the
delicate threads of the adapter are meant for frequent use in the
field, it leaves a large opening for dirt on the mount, and it makes
storage of the counterweight shaft awkward.

So…

First, Roland, Wally, other Mach 1 users, what should I do?

Second, have others had this problem with their Mach 1? (I have not
had this problem in 7 years of use of my 600EGTO, but then it is
constructed with different materials and machining than the Mach 1.)

Third, what should be done to prevent this in the future? (E.g. Not
allowing the shaft/adapter to get direct sunlight? Put a washer on
the end of the shaft to allow some play? Get a modified Mach 1
adapter? …)

Thanks for your help

Terry Opdendyk


















[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Help – Counterweight shaft stuck to Mach 1 counterweight adapter.

terrylo <terry@onset.com>
 

I need some assistance. My counterweight shaft (1.875" x 10.7")
is "stuck tight" in the Mach 1 counterweight adapter (the part of the
Dec. Axis portion into which the counterweight shaft is threaded).
The shaft is attached externally (in its normal use position) to the
adapter and not internally (in its optional storage position).

At a public star party Saturday evening, I set up the Mach 1 for use
about an hour before sunset. I hand-screwed the counterweight shaft
into the Mach 1 counterweight adapter and stopped when snug-tight as
usual. (It was in direct sunlight on a warm evening.) When I
dissembled the scope, mount and tripod about 1:00 AM Sunday morning
to go home, I noticed that when I unscrewed the counterweight shaft,
the counterweight adapter unscrewed from the mount attached to the
counterweight shaft.

Not thinking that anything significant was amiss, I wrapped the shaft
and the attached counterweight adapter in large sheet of bubble wrap,
placed in a carrying case and drove home, thinking I would make
everything nice during my usual morning-after clean-up.

But alas, the shaft will not cooperate and separate from the adapter.
I tried several things (using the screw head in the center of the
shaft with an Allen wrench for leverage; soaking the shaft in ice
water while keeping the adapter warm, having two people try to turn
the parts free;…) but nothing has worked. I am cautious about getting
too aggressive with the adapter for fear of damage or disfigurement.

I now have a pretty black machined aluminum adapter firmly apart of
my counterweight shaft and a large opening on the Mach 1. It is
possible to be could used like this (the adapter does have thread
that screw into the body of the Mach 1). But I don't think the
delicate threads of the adapter are meant for frequent use in the
field, it leaves a large opening for dirt on the mount, and it makes
storage of the counterweight shaft awkward.

So…

First, Roland, Wally, other Mach 1 users, what should I do?

Second, have others had this problem with their Mach 1? (I have not
had this problem in 7 years of use of my 600EGTO, but then it is
constructed with different materials and machining than the Mach 1.)

Third, what should be done to prevent this in the future? (E.g. Not
allowing the shaft/adapter to get direct sunlight? Put a washer on
the end of the shaft to allow some play? Get a modified Mach 1
adapter? …)

Thanks for your help

Terry Opdendyk


Re: Dec Autoguiding problem

Steve Peters
 

Hi Roland,

On Friday night, I tried the two "fixes" you suggested.

1. I calibrated at dec = 0 in the eastern sky, using 15 second
calibration times. The parameter numbers were

X speed = -6.67
Y speed = -6.95
dec angle = 0.88

When guiding on a star in that same area, the dec eror graph was
pretty flat. Then I moved further east and north to Vega and guided
on a star there. Dec graph still nice.

Then I slewed to the western sky, checked "pier flip" in MaxIm, and
started guiding. I got the wild dec oscillation from +2 to -2 pixels
that has been typical.

Since the Y parameter number was close to the X number to start,
that would seem to rule out a low dec parameter number as a possible
cause of loop gain. But just for experiment's sake, I increased the Y
parameter number to -7.95, which made the oscillation worse. Then I
tried -8.95, -9.95, -12.95 and the oscillation remained bad. I also
tried decreasing the Y parameter: -6.65, -6.25, -5.25, in each case
the dec oscillation failed to improve.

So changing the dec parameter number had no effect on the large dec
guiding oscillations.

2. I remained on the star in the west for which the dec oscillation
was bad, using the original parameter numbers obtained from the
calibration at dec = 0. In this test I started with the dec
aggressiveness set at 10. I then reduced it sequentially to 8, 6, 4,
and 2, none of which had any effect. When I went to 0, the dec graph
stayed at +1 pixel on average, though it bounced around from 0 to +2
pixels. Then I set the aggressiveness to 1, no effect; then to 2, and
I started seeing the oscillation again.

I reset the aggressiveness to 8 and established the oscillation
again. Now I turned off the Y axis correction in both directions. The
graph went flat, moving down 1 pixel over the next five minutes.

I tried some other things, such as unchecking pier flip, which had no
effect on improving the oscillation. (I was thinking that maybe this
function was not working.)

Anyway, neither of the two suggestions fixed the problem. Next, I am
going to use a friend's AP900 mount, keeping everything else in my
system the same. If the problem persists, that will rule out any
motor-related cause and will suggest that it's software-related.

I would appreciate any thoughts you might have on the results of my
tests.

Thanks,

Steve Peters



In a message dated 6/1/2008 6:03:24 PM Central Daylight Time,
capitoladude@... writes:


The dec oscillation problem with my AP900 is still ugly as ever.
Your tests of the Dec axis show nothing out of the ordinary as far
as the
mechanics are concerned. If it takes 3 seconds for the Dec axis to
reverse when
pressing the N-S button at 1x rate, then I would say that your gear
mesh is a
bit loose. However, this should not cause wild swings back and
forth in Dec.
Maybe I misread your test of the Dec axis and it does not take a
full 3 seconds
to reverse. Of course, you would be the one to know since you were
there doing
the test and I can only interpret what the result was.

Normally, wild swings are caused by a loop gain greater than 100%
(i.e. the
correction commands sent to the mount are larger than the error).
This will
result in limit cycling as you have experienced. You can see
whether the loop
gain in Dec is too large by looking at the parameter numbers in the
Dec axis. If
the parameter number after calibration is always smaller in Dec
than RA
(calibration near the celestial equator) then chances are that your
loop gain will
be larger than 100%. In that case the mount will always be asked to
overcorrect
in Dec with the resultant oscillations.

Two ways to fix this, if that is the cause. 1) increase the
parameter number
to be approximately equal to the RA number. 2) reduce the
agressiveness in the
Dec axis below 100%. Keep lowering it until the axis becomes
stable. Try
setting your Min move to 0 and Max move to 0.3 seconds and then
adjust the
agressiveness until the axis is stable. Also be sure that the
backlash adjust in the
keypad and in Maxim has been set to zero when you are guiding.

Roland




**************
Get trade secrets for amazing burgers. Watch "Cooking with
Tyler Florence" on AOL Food.
(http://food.aol.com/tyler-florence?video=4&;
?NCID=aolfod00030000000002)




AP900 GTO PE--should I be concerned?

Bob Benamati
 

Hi gang,

Well, after a couple of great weeks with the new 900 (recent run), I
finally used a not so good evening to finally test my PE for real
under the stars. At the image scale I've been shooting, things have
been great right out of the box, so verifying PE was more out of
curiosity than anything.

I've uploaded the results of my PEMPro PEC curves (pre and post
training, using 7 cycles) and comparing those to the factory
programmed PE curves to Files-->Bob B folder and would like to hear
some thoughts on what I'm seeing here.

I was very happy to see that it exceeded the specs with 5" p-to-p,
and that my "real world" runs matched the factory curve very closely.

My question is with the almost perfect, 10s frequency of the errors.
The amplitude is about 0.25"... Personally, I haven't seen any PE
curves like this one. I ran 2 full 7-period sets and they've been
identical--so I'm confident in the result being accurate, especially
since they're very close to the AP PE model.

While I know that we're talking about very small errors here and it
will likely be drowned out by all the other elements of optics,
atmospherics, etc., could this be a problem when I go to my other
imaging train where I'm imaging at 0.5"/pixel? Is this a normal
curve? Recognizing the QC at AP, I'm guessing it is and that I
shouldn't be concerned, but thanks in advance for any input/thoughts
out there!

Bob B.


AP900 GTO PE--should I be concerned?

Bob Benamati
 

Hi gang,

Well, after a couple of great weeks with the new 900 (recent run), I
finally used a not so good evening to finally test my PE for real
under the stars. At the image scale I've been shooting, things have
been great right out of the box, so verifying PE was more out of
curiosity than anything.

I've uploaded the results of my PEMPro PEC curves (pre and post
training, using 7 cycles) and comparing those to the factory
programmed PE curves to Files-->Bob B folder and would like to hear
some thoughts on what I'm seeing here.

I was very happy to see that it exceeded the specs with 5" p-to-p,
and that my "real world" runs matched the factory curve very closely.

My question is with the almost perfect, 10s frequency of the errors.
The amplitude is about 0.25"... Personally, I haven't seen any PE
curves like this one. I ran 2 full 7-period sets and they've been
identical--so I'm confident in the result being accurate, especially
since they're very close to the AP PE model.

While I know that we're talking about very small errors here and it
will likely be drowned out by all the other elements of optics,
atmospherics, etc., could this be a problem when I go to my other
imaging train where I'm imaging at 0.5"/pixel? Is this a normal
curve? Recognizing the QC at AP, I'm guessing it is and that I
shouldn't be concerned, but thanks in advance for any input/thoughts
out there!

Bob B.


Re: Jupiter with AP 1200 GOTO

jimhp29401us
 

Thanks Mark! I use a Skynyx color camera for the planets (Skynyx
mono0 for the moon). I was shooting at 28 frames per second and was
able to stack 3700 frames. UI think I need to decrease the red color
channel just a touch on the Lucam recorder software. I think the
seeing has the potential of being very good here on this barrier
island. I hiope all is well with you.

Jim


Very nice Jim!

What camera did you use?

How many sub-frames?

Mark

On Jun 6, 2008, at 6:12 PM, jimhp29401us wrote:

I was able to get up and ut to observe this morning.The view of
Jupiter was amazingly good given its altitude. I was able to get
a
nice image using the AP 1200 GOTO with a little help from my TEC
200
F/8 Flourite @ F/40. I will upload an image just FYI.

Jim Phillips






CoRoTExo2b - Strange New World in Aquilla

ayiomamitis
 

Dear group,

One of the latest and most unorthodox exoplanet discoveries involves CoRoTExo-2b in
the constellation of Aquilla. CoRoT is the French-led mission in orbit around earth and
whose one of the primary purposes is to follow 12,000 stars per session over 30- and
150-day periods. CoRoTExo2b is the second exoplanet discovery from this mission,
announced in the spring of 2008, and the attached light curve is THE FIRST AMATEUR (and
groundbased?) RESULT of this most eccentric exoplanet whose mass and radius do not
conform with any current models of planetary formation.

This exoplanet transits its parent star over the course of 125 minutes, at a depth of 3.5%
(mag 12.57 pre-ingress and mag 12.605 during transit) and requires less than 42 hrs to
orbit its sun. All of this is at a distance of 930 light-yrs away.

The result from last night's four-hr session is available at http://www.perseus.gr/Astro-
Photometry-CoRoTExo2-20080606.htm

Weather-permitting, back for another strange new world this evening with results to
follow tomorrow.

Clear skies!

Anthony.


Re: Jupiter with AP 1200 GOTO

Geert Vandenbulcke <geert.vdbulcke@...>
 

A nice image Jim? A very very nice image I'd say!

Geert Vdbulcke
Belgium




_____

Van: ap-gto@yahoogroups.com [mailto:ap-gto@yahoogroups.com] Namens Mark
Jenkins
Verzonden: zaterdag 7 juni 2008 5:43
Aan: ap-gto@yahoogroups.com
Onderwerp: Re: [ap-gto] Jupiter with AP 1200 GOT



Very nice Jim!

What camera did you use?

How many sub-frames?

Mark

On Jun 6, 2008, at 6:12 PM, jimhp29401us wrote:

I was able to get up and ut to observe this morning.The view of
Jupiter was amazingly good given its altitude. I was able to get a
nice image using the AP 1200 GOTO with a little help from my TEC 200
F/8 Flourite @ F/40. I will upload an image just FYI.

Jim Phillips








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Re: Jupiter with AP 1200 GOTO

Mark Jenkins
 

Very nice Jim!

What camera did you use?

How many sub-frames?

Mark

On Jun 6, 2008, at 6:12 PM, jimhp29401us wrote:

I was able to get up and ut to observe this morning.The view of
Jupiter was amazingly good given its altitude. I was able to get a
nice image using the AP 1200 GOTO with a little help from my TEC 200
F/8 Flourite @ F/40. I will upload an image just FYI.

Jim Phillips



Re: Interesting guiding problem quickly fixed

Bill Bradford
 

Thanks for the tip, Eric.

I will file that away since I will probably make the same mistake...I make a lot of them.:>)

Bill

----- Original Message -----
From: eja24601
To: ap-gto@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, June 06, 2008 8:00 AM
Subject: [ap-gto] Interesting guiding problem quickly fixed


Hi all,

Just wanted to share a quick experience from a few nights ago.

I was doing some imaging with my AP1200. Guider is a Meade DSI on a
Borg 45ED. With that combination, most of my guide errors (5-second
exposures) were < 0.1 for the most part.

Anyways, on that particular night I was concerned about a drift in
my Y-axis (I think it was in DEC). The error was increasing from one
guide exposure to the next, with no apparent correction.
Recalibrating my guider did not solve the issue. I checked around
for cable drag, with nothing obvious.

On a whim, I decided to check the clutch locks. Lo and behold, one
of the clutch locks was not fully tightened! One quick turn, and
after the guider jump from that jiggle the guide errors fell back to
the range I was used to.

Nice mount! B-)

Eric


New file uploaded to ap-gto

ap-gto@...
 

Hello,

This email message is a notification to let you know that
a file has been uploaded to the Files area of the ap-gto
group.

File : /June6-08JupiterJHP8T-5.jpg
Uploaded by : jimhp29401us <thefamily90@gmail.com>
Description : Jupiter. AP 1200 GOTO plus TEC 200 F/8 Flourite @ F/40

You can access this file at the URL:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/ap-gto/files/June6-08JupiterJHP8T-5.jpg

To learn more about file sharing for your group, please visit:
http://help.yahoo.com/l/us/yahoo/groups/original/members/web/index.htmlfiles

Regards,

jimhp29401us <thefamily90@gmail.com>


Jupiter with AP 1200 GOTO

jimhp29401us
 

I was able to get up and ut to observe this morning.The view of
Jupiter was amazingly good given its altitude. I was able to get a
nice image using the AP 1200 GOTO with a little help from my TEC 200
F/8 Flourite @ F/40. I will upload an image just FYI.

Jim Phillips


Re: DEC aggressiveness in guiding

jgw12936 <jimwood4@...>
 

Hunter,

In PhD you just need to check the "brain" icon and you can change
all the numbers to your hearts content.

Jim

--- In ap-gto@yahoogroups.com, "hewholooks" <hewholooks@...> wrote:

Thanks Roland. I see how that works, but now the issue that no one
here can help me with is how to get inside PHD guiding and change
those numbers.

I'll keep fishing.

Hunter

--- In ap-gto@yahoogroups.com, chris1011@ wrote:

In a message dated 6/5/2008 6:23:06 PM Central Daylight Time,
hewholooks@ writes:


Problem is that when I get a DEC correction, it is so
aggressive
that
the exposure it occurs in must be discarded.

If I set the guiderate in the mount to 0.25, will this also
decrease
the agressiveness of the DEC axis corrections at the mount
level,
like I think it does at the RA axis?

Any other suggestions to "slow down" my DEC corrections besides
buying Maxim where I can seet the DEC aggressiveness seperately
or
just turning off the DEC guiding altogether?
The agressiveness will be determined by the RA and Dec parameter
numbers.
These are the numbers that the software gets which tell it how
many
pixels the
mount moves per second. If during calibration the mount moves 150
pixels in a 10
second move command at 1x, then the parmeter number that is
stored
in the
software will be 15 (i.e. 150/10). You can reduce the
agressiveness
by changing
this number to a higher value for either axis. If you double it
to
30, you have
reduced the agressiveness to 50%. If the number is too low, then
the loop
gain becomes larger than 100%, which ends up causing unstable
oscillations in the
loop (basically the software overcorrects for every small error).

Rolando


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AP 1200 - motor gearbox housing noise

werner.pribil
 

Hello !

When I press "6" on the keypad and choose the button rate "64x" and
move my mount in E or W with the directonal buttons I notice that the
RA motor/gearbox makes two types of noises simultaneously:
The first one is a very homogenous whirring (buzzing) and that´s okay.
The second type is a kind of low crackling (with a lower frequenzy) and
that seems to be peculiar to me.
I can hear it cleary when it is very silent or better when I place my
ear directly on the RA motor gearbox housing and move with 64 x.
The AP 1200 mount is new and I don´t know if this is normal. Does
your mount(every mount) make this noises too ?