Date   

Re: Broken clutch knob

steve_dashiell <dashiellyg1@...>
 

Since the top of the broken stud is 3 mm down in the threaded hole, if
glue of any sort is put on top of it and the other piece is threaded
in, any excess glue will be forced out of the space between the two
broken pieces and into the threads both above and below the break,
since there will be no where else the excess can go. I seriously
doubt that there is anything that can be done to seal the threads
adequately to prevent this, since the glue is relatively
incompressible. If the amount of glue used is so small that there is
no excess to squeeze out, it might work, but the proper amount is
probably difficult to estimate.

Steve

--- In ap-gto@..., "Mark Galiyano Jr" <mgjr@...> wrote:

You can protect the threads from the glue by putting wax at the
interface of the bolt and threads. Most glues will not adhear to wax
and it forms a fairly good barrier. The thing that troubles me is that
enough force was present to shear the bolt. I am not sure this can be
done without an easy out. I do think and easy out will work though.
Most of us that have had trouble with them were trying to get out
wrench-tightened bolt remains, not hand tightened.

Best of luck,
Mark

----- Original Message -----
From: steve_dashiell
To: ap-gto@...
Sent: Saturday, December 15, 2007 8:17 PM
Subject: [ap-gto] Re: Broken clutch knob


The risk with this approach is that if any of the glue gets into the
threads of the broken off stub, it could end up acting like a thread
locker, making the broken piece difficult to remove at all, even with
proper equipment.

Steve

--- In ap-gto@..., "Bryon Schwartz" <bryonnmissy@> wrote:
>
>
> If the screw part that is still in the mount is not stripped or
> jammed into the thread wall maybe try crazy glueing, or some other
> strong epoxy, the knob back onto the bolt and let it set for
maybe a
> day and then try twisting it out SLOWLY. This might work ONLY if
the
> remaining part of the bolt is not jammed or stripped into the screw
> walls.
>
> Just my $.02 and can't hurt to try. The only thing that could
happen
> is the bolt will shear again at the point where you glued it.
>
> Bryon
>
> --- In ap-gto@..., "Peter Santangeli" <peter@> wrote:
> >
> >
> > Indeed the problem is bad... that part I'm holding is supposed
to be
> > at least 3/4 of an inch long. The rest is in the mount.
> >
> > Pete
> >
>





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: Broken clutch knob

Mlooker
 

Pete,
If the hole is not blind meaning the broken off blot is not rammed in tight (maybe use a pick and see if it moves). The easiest way I've found to extract a bolt is to use a left hand drill bit. Snap On sells a 5 piece set, just reverse your drill and usually the second you touch the broken bolt it spins right out.

Sometimes you need to use a center punch to create a starting point but you must determine that with your situation.

Tom

----- Original Message -----
From: Peter Santangeli
To: ap-gto@...
Sent: Saturday, December 15, 2007 2:13 PM
Subject: [ap-gto] Re: Broken clutch knob



Indeed the problem is bad... that part I'm holding is supposed to be
at least 3/4 of an inch long. The rest is in the mount.

Pete

--- In ap-gto@..., "Rick K" <JunkMailGoesHere@...> wrote:
>
> I am totally confused. If this is the problem, toss it in the garbage
> and order a new one from AP on Monday.
>
> I thought you were talking about the mount having a problem with a
> broken off threaded section in the mount itself. That is serious and
> is what a picture of would be worth a 1000 words.
>
> Rick.
>
>
> --- In ap-gto@..., "Peter Santangeli" <peter@> wrote:
> >
> >
> > Maybe a picture is indeed worth 1000 words... Here is a shot of the
> > broken knob:
> >
> > http://www.santangeli.net/knob.jpg
> >
> > As you can see, the device is actually a hollow threaded aluminum tube
> > with the knob part screwed into it. The walls of the tube are not that
> > thick, but should take quite a bit of torque without breaking. All I
> > can assume is that the knob got banged longitudinally somehow, and the
> > tube broke.
> >
> > The rest of the tube (with the "outer" thread) is unfortunately still
> > in the mount.
> >
> > Pete
> >
> >
> > --- In ap-gto@..., Gregory Nottingham <gnpnotti@> wrote:
> > >
> > > My experience using Eazy Outs on exhaust studs on cylinder heads
has
> > > not been good. I know that the telescope situation is different.
> > > What is the diameter of screw? As long as you are sure that screw
> > > isn't cross-threaded, you should be alright but every-time I've
used
> > > one, I have gone in with the assumption that I will have to take
the
> > > head to a machine shop to drill out the stud and the broken,
> hardened
> > > steel Easy Out.
> > > Good luck.
> > > Greg
> > > On Dec 15, 2007, at 2:01, Peter Santangeli wrote:
> > >
> > > >
> > > > Good suggestion. I was thinking about something like this.
> > > >
> > > > Pete
> > > >
> > > > --- In ap-gto@..., kawasaki99@ wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > Hello Strong Man,
> > > > > Local hardware store ought to sell an (easy-out)
> > > > which is a
> > > > > sort of a left hand thread tap and the proper size pilot drill
> > > > for the
> > > > > easy-out. If it's only hand tight to ought to come out. Have an
> > > > assistant hold a
> > > > > vacuum cleaner hose close to broken screw while drilling the
pilot
> > > > hole to
> > > > > capture any small chips. A small center drill or sharp prick
punch
> > > > may be necessary
> > > > > to ensure the pilot drill puts the hole close to the true
> center of
> > > > the
> > > > > broken screw. Sounds like a lot but it's generally easy.
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > **************************************See AOL's top rated
recipes
> > > > >
(http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004)
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
>


Re: Broken clutch knob

Mark Galiyano Jr <mgjr@...>
 

You can protect the threads from the glue by putting wax at the interface of the bolt and threads. Most glues will not adhear to wax and it forms a fairly good barrier. The thing that troubles me is that enough force was present to shear the bolt. I am not sure this can be done without an easy out. I do think and easy out will work though. Most of us that have had trouble with them were trying to get out wrench-tightened bolt remains, not hand tightened.

Best of luck,
Mark

----- Original Message -----
From: steve_dashiell
To: ap-gto@...
Sent: Saturday, December 15, 2007 8:17 PM
Subject: [ap-gto] Re: Broken clutch knob


The risk with this approach is that if any of the glue gets into the
threads of the broken off stub, it could end up acting like a thread
locker, making the broken piece difficult to remove at all, even with
proper equipment.

Steve

--- In ap-gto@..., "Bryon Schwartz" <bryonnmissy@...> wrote:
>
>
> If the screw part that is still in the mount is not stripped or
> jammed into the thread wall maybe try crazy glueing, or some other
> strong epoxy, the knob back onto the bolt and let it set for maybe a
> day and then try twisting it out SLOWLY. This might work ONLY if the
> remaining part of the bolt is not jammed or stripped into the screw
> walls.
>
> Just my $.02 and can't hurt to try. The only thing that could happen
> is the bolt will shear again at the point where you glued it.
>
> Bryon
>
> --- In ap-gto@..., "Peter Santangeli" <peter@> wrote:
> >
> >
> > Indeed the problem is bad... that part I'm holding is supposed to be
> > at least 3/4 of an inch long. The rest is in the mount.
> >
> > Pete
> >
>


Re: Broken clutch knob

MrGrytt
 

--- In ap-gto@..., "Peter Santangeli" <peter@...> wrote:


Sadly, while setting up today in my yard, I went to tighten one of
my RA clutch knobs on my AP900 and it snapped off in my hand. It
broke off about 5mm down, so that I can just see about 2 mm of the
bolt inside of it. The rest of the shaft is no doubt stuck down in
the hole it screws into.
There are a number of ways to tackle this if you want to avoid
letting a machine shop or AP do it.
Based on what you've described I can tell you how I would go
about things, given the described problem, and also assuming that the
end of the bolt can't/shouldn't be exceptionally tight in the threaded
hole. Hopefully no more than hand tight.
Take a small center-punch and carefully try to place a small
center-punch mark in the center of the broken shaft. Then take a very
small drill bit (about 1/16") and carefully and slowly drill a pilot
hole through the center-punch mark. Go slowly and carefully so you
don't break the drill bit. Drill to whatever depth makes sense, based
on the following step.
Get, buy, rent, a set of EZ-outs. Drill the recommended size
larger hole for the selected size EZ-out, by drilling into the smaller
pilot hole. Finally, use the EZ-out to extract the broken bolt, and
be careful not to break the EX-out.
If a decent amount of force won't back it out then go with a
larger size hole and larger EZ-out, if possible, before using more
force than the smaller tools will handle.


A couple of questions...

Is there a way for me to get the shaft out?
Hopefully.

Can I order a replacement?
Of course.

Am I stuck sending my RA assembly back to AP :-(
Not necessarily.

Any danger of me using it this way until a convenient time?
I would suspect there's no danger at all in using it.

Harvey


Re: Broken clutch knob

steve_dashiell <dashiellyg1@...>
 

The risk with this approach is that if any of the glue gets into the
threads of the broken off stub, it could end up acting like a thread
locker, making the broken piece difficult to remove at all, even with
proper equipment.

Steve

--- In ap-gto@..., "Bryon Schwartz" <bryonnmissy@...> wrote:


If the screw part that is still in the mount is not stripped or
jammed into the thread wall maybe try crazy glueing, or some other
strong epoxy, the knob back onto the bolt and let it set for maybe a
day and then try twisting it out SLOWLY. This might work ONLY if the
remaining part of the bolt is not jammed or stripped into the screw
walls.

Just my $.02 and can't hurt to try. The only thing that could happen
is the bolt will shear again at the point where you glued it.

Bryon

--- In ap-gto@..., "Peter Santangeli" <peter@> wrote:


Indeed the problem is bad... that part I'm holding is supposed to be
at least 3/4 of an inch long. The rest is in the mount.

Pete


Re: Broken clutch knob

Bryon Schwartz <bryonnmissy@...>
 

If the screw part that is still in the mount is not stripped or
jammed into the thread wall maybe try crazy glueing, or some other
strong epoxy, the knob back onto the bolt and let it set for maybe a
day and then try twisting it out SLOWLY. This might work ONLY if the
remaining part of the bolt is not jammed or stripped into the screw
walls.

Just my $.02 and can't hurt to try. The only thing that could happen
is the bolt will shear again at the point where you glued it.

Bryon

--- In ap-gto@..., "Peter Santangeli" <peter@...> wrote:


Indeed the problem is bad... that part I'm holding is supposed to be
at least 3/4 of an inch long. The rest is in the mount.

Pete


Re: Error in AP driver

Yves Laroche
 

Sorry Ajai, i complety forgot to mention that i'm using CP3 controller.

----- Original Message -----
From: Ajai Sehgal
To: ap-gto@...
Sent: Saturday, December 15, 2007 4:57 PM
Subject: RE: [ap-gto] Re: Error in AP driver


Yup. If you have a CP1 or CP2 controller, never use the Horizon Check. It
is broken in the firmware.

Ajai

_____

From: ap-gto@... [mailto:ap-gto@...] On Behalf Of
yves laroche
Sent: Saturday, December 15, 2007 11:48 AM
To: ap-gto@...
Subject: Re: [ap-gto] Re: Error in AP driver

Hi Ajai,

I've got plenty of synchronization problem last summer until i decided to
uncheck the Use Horizon Check feature in your driver. I was able to slew to
objects when they were on the same meridian side but when they passed the
meridian, the mount tried to go upside down at each try. I've got this
problem on several nights until i decided to investigate and found that the
Use Horizon Check feature was causing the behavior . This feature was
checked during the last winter without any problem but the problem appeared
after daylight saving change. I'm running AP ASCOM version 4.1.25 and
helper2.dll is installed.

Maybe it's related or not with this thread bot i prefer to let you
know...just in case.

Yves

----- Original Message -----
From: Ajai Sehgal
To: ap-gto@yahoogroups. <mailto:ap-gto%40yahoogroups.com> com
Sent: Saturday, December 15, 2007 1:23 PM
Subject: [ap-gto] Re: Error in AP driver

I have looked at the code and can't see anything that would cause
this. The code is common to all the drivers that I write and so far
no issues have been reported. Here is the code. If someone can spot
the error I am will certainly fix it:

'Get the longitude from the AP and convert it to degress
SiteLongitude = -m_Util.DMSToDegrees(CommandString("Gg"))

' Convert from AP 0-359 westward to ASCOM format +/- 180 +E
If SiteLongitude < -180# Then SiteLongitude = SiteLongitude + 360#

This is the entire AP documentation on the topic (leaves quite a bit
to be desired - as you can see is is VERY open to interpretation:

Command: :Gg#
Response: +DDD*MM# or +DDD*MM:SS# if long format
Gets the current longitude.

It would be helpful if you could send me a serial trace of what the
AP is reporting back when you query the longitude when east (I can't
get to my AP right now because it is in a dome and it is pouring rain
here - can't open the dome to get in - remote computer shut itself
down - sigh).

Please ensure that you have the updated helper2.dll installed from
the ASCOM site. This is required as the old version had a bug in it.

Ajai

--- In ap-gto@yahoogroups. <mailto:ap-gto%40yahoogroups.com> com, "Chuck
Faranda" <mail_lists2@...>
wrote:
>
> FYI: Ajai is investigating the issue and will report ASAP.
>
> Regards,
> Chuck Faranda
> http://ccdastro. <http://ccdastro.net> net
>
> > ----- Original Message -----
> >> I am running the latest driver for AP GTO mounts (4.1.25)
> >> under ASCOM 4. My mount is a Mach1.
> >> The reported site information is incorrect: after a Get
> >> Lat/Long is done, I get a correct value for Latitude, but
> >> Longitude is wrong:
> >> it reports
> >> E 4 10.00
> >> instead of
> >> E 5 50.00
> >> I checked the AP keypad: it's OK there.
> >> So I suspect a wrong conversion... possibly for all of us
> >> sitting E of Greenwich...
>

__________ NOD32 2724 (20071214) Information __________

This message was checked by NOD32 antivirus system.
http://www.eset. <http://www.eset.com> com









__________ NOD32 2724 (20071214) Information __________

This message was checked by NOD32 antivirus system.
http://www.eset.com


Re: Broken clutch knob

Dean S
 

I would take it to a shop that can do bolt extractions. I use a guy that has a wire EDM (??) machine I think it is called and he burns them out. But this is with steel cutter heads so not sure if doing this in alum is ok but they would know. I would not want to risk screwing up my mount doing it myself.

You might also try to see if it by chance is a already loose by gluing something to it and see if it will turn.

Good luck.

----- Original Message -----
From: "Peter Santangeli" <peter@...>
To: <ap-gto@...>
Sent: Saturday, December 15, 2007 5:13 PM
Subject: [ap-gto] Re: Broken clutch knob



Indeed the problem is bad... that part I'm holding is supposed to be
at least 3/4 of an inch long. The rest is in the mount.

Pete

--- In ap-gto@..., "Rick K" <JunkMailGoesHere@...> wrote:

I am totally confused. If this is the problem, toss it in the garbage
and order a new one from AP on Monday.

I thought you were talking about the mount having a problem with a
broken off threaded section in the mount itself. That is serious and
is what a picture of would be worth a 1000 words.

Rick.


--- In ap-gto@..., "Peter Santangeli" <peter@> wrote:


Maybe a picture is indeed worth 1000 words... Here is a shot of the
broken knob:

http://www.santangeli.net/knob.jpg

As you can see, the device is actually a hollow threaded aluminum tube
with the knob part screwed into it. The walls of the tube are not that
thick, but should take quite a bit of torque without breaking. All I
can assume is that the knob got banged longitudinally somehow, and the
tube broke.

The rest of the tube (with the "outer" thread) is unfortunately still
in the mount.

Pete


--- In ap-gto@..., Gregory Nottingham <gnpnotti@> wrote:

My experience using Eazy Outs on exhaust studs on cylinder heads
has
not been good. I know that the telescope situation is different.
What is the diameter of screw? As long as you are sure that screw
isn't cross-threaded, you should be alright but every-time I've
used
one, I have gone in with the assumption that I will have to take
the
head to a machine shop to drill out the stud and the broken,
hardened
steel Easy Out.
Good luck.
Greg
On Dec 15, 2007, at 2:01, Peter Santangeli wrote:


Good suggestion. I was thinking about something like this.

Pete

--- In ap-gto@..., kawasaki99@ wrote:

Hello Strong Man,
Local hardware store ought to sell an (easy-out)
which is a
sort of a left hand thread tap and the proper size pilot drill
for the
easy-out. If it's only hand tight to ought to come out. Have an
assistant hold a
vacuum cleaner hose close to broken screw while drilling the
pilot
hole to
capture any small chips. A small center drill or sharp prick
punch
may be necessary
to ensure the pilot drill puts the hole close to the true
center of
the
broken screw. Sounds like a lot but it's generally easy.



**************************************See AOL's top rated
recipes
(http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004)








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Re: Broken clutch knob

Peter Santangeli
 

Indeed the problem is bad... that part I'm holding is supposed to be
at least 3/4 of an inch long. The rest is in the mount.

Pete

--- In ap-gto@..., "Rick K" <JunkMailGoesHere@...> wrote:

I am totally confused. If this is the problem, toss it in the garbage
and order a new one from AP on Monday.

I thought you were talking about the mount having a problem with a
broken off threaded section in the mount itself. That is serious and
is what a picture of would be worth a 1000 words.

Rick.


--- In ap-gto@..., "Peter Santangeli" <peter@> wrote:


Maybe a picture is indeed worth 1000 words... Here is a shot of the
broken knob:

http://www.santangeli.net/knob.jpg

As you can see, the device is actually a hollow threaded aluminum tube
with the knob part screwed into it. The walls of the tube are not that
thick, but should take quite a bit of torque without breaking. All I
can assume is that the knob got banged longitudinally somehow, and the
tube broke.

The rest of the tube (with the "outer" thread) is unfortunately still
in the mount.

Pete


--- In ap-gto@..., Gregory Nottingham <gnpnotti@> wrote:

My experience using Eazy Outs on exhaust studs on cylinder heads
has
not been good. I know that the telescope situation is different.
What is the diameter of screw? As long as you are sure that screw
isn't cross-threaded, you should be alright but every-time I've
used
one, I have gone in with the assumption that I will have to take
the
head to a machine shop to drill out the stud and the broken,
hardened
steel Easy Out.
Good luck.
Greg
On Dec 15, 2007, at 2:01, Peter Santangeli wrote:


Good suggestion. I was thinking about something like this.

Pete

--- In ap-gto@..., kawasaki99@ wrote:

Hello Strong Man,
Local hardware store ought to sell an (easy-out)
which is a
sort of a left hand thread tap and the proper size pilot drill
for the
easy-out. If it's only hand tight to ought to come out. Have an
assistant hold a
vacuum cleaner hose close to broken screw while drilling the
pilot
hole to
capture any small chips. A small center drill or sharp prick
punch
may be necessary
to ensure the pilot drill puts the hole close to the true
center of
the
broken screw. Sounds like a lot but it's generally easy.



**************************************See AOL's top rated
recipes
(http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004)






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: Error in AP driver

Ajai Sehgal
 

Yup. If you have a CP1 or CP2 controller, never use the Horizon Check. It
is broken in the firmware.

Ajai

_____

From: ap-gto@... [mailto:ap-gto@...] On Behalf Of
yves laroche
Sent: Saturday, December 15, 2007 11:48 AM
To: ap-gto@...
Subject: Re: [ap-gto] Re: Error in AP driver



Hi Ajai,

I've got plenty of synchronization problem last summer until i decided to
uncheck the Use Horizon Check feature in your driver. I was able to slew to
objects when they were on the same meridian side but when they passed the
meridian, the mount tried to go upside down at each try. I've got this
problem on several nights until i decided to investigate and found that the
Use Horizon Check feature was causing the behavior . This feature was
checked during the last winter without any problem but the problem appeared
after daylight saving change. I'm running AP ASCOM version 4.1.25 and
helper2.dll is installed.

Maybe it's related or not with this thread bot i prefer to let you
know...just in case.

Yves

----- Original Message -----
From: Ajai Sehgal
To: ap-gto@yahoogroups. <mailto:ap-gto%40yahoogroups.com> com
Sent: Saturday, December 15, 2007 1:23 PM
Subject: [ap-gto] Re: Error in AP driver

I have looked at the code and can't see anything that would cause
this. The code is common to all the drivers that I write and so far
no issues have been reported. Here is the code. If someone can spot
the error I am will certainly fix it:

'Get the longitude from the AP and convert it to degress
SiteLongitude = -m_Util.DMSToDegrees(CommandString("Gg"))

' Convert from AP 0-359 westward to ASCOM format +/- 180 +E
If SiteLongitude < -180# Then SiteLongitude = SiteLongitude + 360#

This is the entire AP documentation on the topic (leaves quite a bit
to be desired - as you can see is is VERY open to interpretation:

Command: :Gg#
Response: +DDD*MM# or +DDD*MM:SS# if long format
Gets the current longitude.

It would be helpful if you could send me a serial trace of what the
AP is reporting back when you query the longitude when east (I can't
get to my AP right now because it is in a dome and it is pouring rain
here - can't open the dome to get in - remote computer shut itself
down - sigh).

Please ensure that you have the updated helper2.dll installed from
the ASCOM site. This is required as the old version had a bug in it.

Ajai

--- In ap-gto@yahoogroups. <mailto:ap-gto%40yahoogroups.com> com, "Chuck
Faranda" <mail_lists2@...>
wrote:

FYI: Ajai is investigating the issue and will report ASAP.

Regards,
Chuck Faranda
http://ccdastro. <http://ccdastro.net> net

----- Original Message -----
I am running the latest driver for AP GTO mounts (4.1.25)
under ASCOM 4. My mount is a Mach1.
The reported site information is incorrect: after a Get
Lat/Long is done, I get a correct value for Latitude, but
Longitude is wrong:
it reports
E 4 10.00
instead of
E 5 50.00
I checked the AP keypad: it's OK there.
So I suspect a wrong conversion... possibly for all of us
sitting E of Greenwich...
__________ NOD32 2724 (20071214) Information __________

This message was checked by NOD32 antivirus system.
http://www.eset. <http://www.eset.com> com


Re: what's the best software package to automate a remote observatory wi

Richard Crisp
 

thanks for the reply Paul

does it also control the aximuth for a dome?

----- Original Message -----
From: Paul Mortfield
To: ap-gto@...
Sent: Saturday, December 15, 2007 12:22 PM
Subject: [ap-gto] Re:what's the best software package to automate a remote observatory wi


Richard,
Maxim 4.x (or CCDSoft) + CCDAutoPilot3. Works flawlessly night
after night after night after night all from thousands of miles away.
Including darks, flats and opening/closing the roof. Multi-targets,
meridian flips, camera rotation, and focus. also integrates with the
Boltwood Cloud sensor. Perfect for setting up the run, and off to
sleep knowing its all getting done, and will be parked and closed
down in the morning.

For Comets and asteroids (long target list generated from TheSky
database), I use CCDCommander to grab these images for
photometry/astrometry work. Its easier to integrate a long target
list with this arrangement. also the fact that it'll grab latest
coords for these moving targets.

...paul.


Re: Error in AP driver

Chuck Faranda <mail_lists2@...>
 

----- Original Message -----
From: Bryan Henry
To: ap-gto@...
Sent: Saturday, December 15, 2007 4:37 PM
Subject: [ap-gto] Re: Error in AP driver


--- In ap-gto@..., "Chuck Faranda" <mail_lists2@...>
wrote:
>
> The command protocol docs state that there are known issues with
these commands in CP1 & 2. Here's the language in the doc: ' Note
for versions D, KD, E, KE, E1 and KE1: The horizon check command does
not work properly. It does work properly in versions C and KC.' I
haven't a clue to what 'doesn't work properly' means though.
However, this does implies it works with all versions of
CP3......but, I don't see a way to query for the CP model so there's
no way for the SW to be choosy that I can find. I suppose it is up
to the end user to determine if they can use this feature based on
the hardware they own.
>
> I don't think this is related to what you have reported with the
site longitude.
>
> Chuck

Which command protocol doc talks about the horizon check not working?
Mine does not work but I figured that out the hard way and ended up
implementing this function on my own.

Bryan


Re: Error in AP driver

planetary_hunter
 

--- In ap-gto@..., "Chuck Faranda" <mail_lists2@...>
wrote:

The command protocol docs state that there are known issues with
these commands in CP1 & 2. Here's the language in the doc: ' Note
for versions D, KD, E, KE, E1 and KE1: The horizon check command does
not work properly. It does work properly in versions C and KC.' I
haven't a clue to what 'doesn't work properly' means though.
However, this does implies it works with all versions of
CP3......but, I don't see a way to query for the CP model so there's
no way for the SW to be choosy that I can find. I suppose it is up
to the end user to determine if they can use this feature based on
the hardware they own.

I don't think this is related to what you have reported with the
site longitude.

Chuck
Which command protocol doc talks about the horizon check not working?
Mine does not work but I figured that out the hard way and ended up
implementing this function on my own.

Bryan


Re: Error in AP driver

Chuck Faranda <mail_lists2@...>
 

The command protocol docs state that there are known issues with these commands in CP1 & 2. Here's the language in the doc: ' Note for versions D, KD, E, KE, E1 and KE1: The horizon check command does not work properly. It does work properly in versions C and KC.' I haven't a clue to what 'doesn't work properly' means though. However, this does implies it works with all versions of CP3......but, I don't see a way to query for the CP model so there's no way for the SW to be choosy that I can find. I suppose it is up to the end user to determine if they can use this feature based on the hardware they own.

I don't think this is related to what you have reported with the site longitude.

Chuck

----- Original Message -----
From: yves laroche
To: ap-gto@...
Sent: Saturday, December 15, 2007 2:47 PM
Subject: Re: [ap-gto] Re: Error in AP driver


Hi Ajai,

I've got plenty of synchronization problem last summer until i decided to uncheck the Use Horizon Check feature in your driver. I was able to slew to objects when they were on the same meridian side but when they passed the meridian, the mount tried to go upside down at each try. I've got this problem on several nights until i decided to investigate and found that the Use Horizon Check feature was causing the behavior . This feature was checked during the last winter without any problem but the problem appeared after daylight saving change. I'm running AP ASCOM version 4.1.25 and helper2.dll is installed.

Maybe it's related or not with this thread bot i prefer to let you know...just in case.

Yves

----- Original Message -----
From: Ajai Sehgal
To: ap-gto@...
Sent: Saturday, December 15, 2007 1:23 PM
Subject: [ap-gto] Re: Error in AP driver

I have looked at the code and can't see anything that would cause
this. The code is common to all the drivers that I write and so far
no issues have been reported. Here is the code. If someone can spot
the error I am will certainly fix it:

'Get the longitude from the AP and convert it to degress
SiteLongitude = -m_Util.DMSToDegrees(CommandString("Gg"))

' Convert from AP 0-359 westward to ASCOM format +/- 180 +E
If SiteLongitude < -180# Then SiteLongitude = SiteLongitude + 360#

This is the entire AP documentation on the topic (leaves quite a bit
to be desired - as you can see is is VERY open to interpretation:

Command: :Gg#
Response: +DDD*MM# or +DDD*MM:SS# if long format
Gets the current longitude.

It would be helpful if you could send me a serial trace of what the
AP is reporting back when you query the longitude when east (I can't
get to my AP right now because it is in a dome and it is pouring rain
here - can't open the dome to get in - remote computer shut itself
down - sigh).

Please ensure that you have the updated helper2.dll installed from
the ASCOM site. This is required as the old version had a bug in it.

Ajai

--- In ap-gto@..., "Chuck Faranda" <mail_lists2@...>
wrote:
>
> FYI: Ajai is investigating the issue and will report ASAP.
>
> Regards,
> Chuck Faranda
> http://ccdastro.net
>
> > ----- Original Message -----
> >> I am running the latest driver for AP GTO mounts (4.1.25)
> >> under ASCOM 4. My mount is a Mach1.
> >> The reported site information is incorrect: after a Get
> >> Lat/Long is done, I get a correct value for Latitude, but
> >> Longitude is wrong:
> >> it reports
> >> E 4 10.00
> >> instead of
> >> E 5 50.00
> >> I checked the AP keypad: it's OK there.
> >> So I suspect a wrong conversion... possibly for all of us
> >> sitting E of Greenwich...
>

__________ NOD32 2724 (20071214) Information __________

This message was checked by NOD32 antivirus system.
http://www.eset.com


Re: what's the best software package to automate a remote observatory wi

Paul M
 

Richard,
Maxim 4.x (or CCDSoft) + CCDAutoPilot3. Works flawlessly night after night after night after night all from thousands of miles away. Including darks, flats and opening/closing the roof. Multi-targets, meridian flips, camera rotation, and focus. also integrates with the Boltwood Cloud sensor. Perfect for setting up the run, and off to sleep knowing its all getting done, and will be parked and closed down in the morning.

For Comets and asteroids (long target list generated from TheSky database), I use CCDCommander to grab these images for photometry/astrometry work. Its easier to integrate a long target list with this arrangement. also the fact that it'll grab latest coords for these moving targets.

...paul.


Re: Broken clutch knob

observe_m13
 

Stainless steel is notoriously difficult to drill. It will be hard,
and compared to the surrounding aluminum it will be extremely hard.
That is why an "easy-out" is anything but in this situation. Drilling
a small hole in the exact center of a small diameter stainless bolt
stub for a very small easy out is going to be extremely difficult and
require precise alignments, centering, and a great deal of care. If
this is the case, I would definitely leave it to the professionals.

Rick.

--- In ap-gto@..., "Bob Olson" <r.olson@...> wrote:

Hi Pete,

Be very careful that the pilot drill doesn't wander off the hard
clutch screw and into the soft aluminium casting. I believe the
clutch screw is stainless steel and it might work harden when it is
being drilled. You might want to consider having a machine shop do
the job.

I think that you can use the mount as it is, so you might want to
wait until the AP folks get back from their Christmas holidays, and
then check with them.

Bob

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: Broken clutch knob

observe_m13
 

I am totally confused. If this is the problem, toss it in the garbage
and order a new one from AP on Monday.

I thought you were talking about the mount having a problem with a
broken off threaded section in the mount itself. That is serious and
is what a picture of would be worth a 1000 words.

Rick.


--- In ap-gto@..., "Peter Santangeli" <peter@...> wrote:


Maybe a picture is indeed worth 1000 words... Here is a shot of the
broken knob:

http://www.santangeli.net/knob.jpg

As you can see, the device is actually a hollow threaded aluminum tube
with the knob part screwed into it. The walls of the tube are not that
thick, but should take quite a bit of torque without breaking. All I
can assume is that the knob got banged longitudinally somehow, and the
tube broke.

The rest of the tube (with the "outer" thread) is unfortunately still
in the mount.

Pete


--- In ap-gto@..., Gregory Nottingham <gnpnotti@> wrote:

My experience using Eazy Outs on exhaust studs on cylinder heads has
not been good. I know that the telescope situation is different.
What is the diameter of screw? As long as you are sure that screw
isn't cross-threaded, you should be alright but every-time I've used
one, I have gone in with the assumption that I will have to take the
head to a machine shop to drill out the stud and the broken,
hardened
steel Easy Out.
Good luck.
Greg
On Dec 15, 2007, at 2:01, Peter Santangeli wrote:


Good suggestion. I was thinking about something like this.

Pete

--- In ap-gto@..., kawasaki99@ wrote:

Hello Strong Man,
Local hardware store ought to sell an (easy-out)
which is a
sort of a left hand thread tap and the proper size pilot drill
for the
easy-out. If it's only hand tight to ought to come out. Have an
assistant hold a
vacuum cleaner hose close to broken screw while drilling the pilot
hole to
capture any small chips. A small center drill or sharp prick punch
may be necessary
to ensure the pilot drill puts the hole close to the true
center of
the
broken screw. Sounds like a lot but it's generally easy.



**************************************See AOL's top rated recipes
(http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004)


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: Error in AP driver

Yves Laroche
 

Hi Ajai,

I've got plenty of synchronization problem last summer until i decided to uncheck the Use Horizon Check feature in your driver. I was able to slew to objects when they were on the same meridian side but when they passed the meridian, the mount tried to go upside down at each try. I've got this problem on several nights until i decided to investigate and found that the Use Horizon Check feature was causing the behavior . This feature was checked during the last winter without any problem but the problem appeared after daylight saving change. I'm running AP ASCOM version 4.1.25 and helper2.dll is installed.

Maybe it's related or not with this thread bot i prefer to let you know...just in case.

Yves

----- Original Message -----
From: Ajai Sehgal
To: ap-gto@...
Sent: Saturday, December 15, 2007 1:23 PM
Subject: [ap-gto] Re: Error in AP driver


I have looked at the code and can't see anything that would cause
this. The code is common to all the drivers that I write and so far
no issues have been reported. Here is the code. If someone can spot
the error I am will certainly fix it:

'Get the longitude from the AP and convert it to degress
SiteLongitude = -m_Util.DMSToDegrees(CommandString("Gg"))

' Convert from AP 0-359 westward to ASCOM format +/- 180 +E
If SiteLongitude < -180# Then SiteLongitude = SiteLongitude + 360#

This is the entire AP documentation on the topic (leaves quite a bit
to be desired - as you can see is is VERY open to interpretation:

Command: :Gg#
Response: +DDD*MM# or +DDD*MM:SS# if long format
Gets the current longitude.

It would be helpful if you could send me a serial trace of what the
AP is reporting back when you query the longitude when east (I can't
get to my AP right now because it is in a dome and it is pouring rain
here - can't open the dome to get in - remote computer shut itself
down - sigh).

Please ensure that you have the updated helper2.dll installed from
the ASCOM site. This is required as the old version had a bug in it.

Ajai

--- In ap-gto@..., "Chuck Faranda" <mail_lists2@...>
wrote:
>
> FYI: Ajai is investigating the issue and will report ASAP.
>
> Regards,
> Chuck Faranda
> http://ccdastro.net
>
> > ----- Original Message -----
> >> I am running the latest driver for AP GTO mounts (4.1.25)
> >> under ASCOM 4. My mount is a Mach1.
> >> The reported site information is incorrect: after a Get
> >> Lat/Long is done, I get a correct value for Latitude, but
> >> Longitude is wrong:
> >> it reports
> >> E 4 10.00
> >> instead of
> >> E 5 50.00
> >> I checked the AP keypad: it's OK there.
> >> So I suspect a wrong conversion... possibly for all of us
> >> sitting E of Greenwich...
>





__________ NOD32 2724 (20071214) Information __________

This message was checked by NOD32 antivirus system.
http://www.eset.com


Re: Error in AP driver

Ajai Sehgal
 

I have looked at the code and can't see anything that would cause
this. The code is common to all the drivers that I write and so far
no issues have been reported. Here is the code. If someone can spot
the error I am will certainly fix it:

'Get the longitude from the AP and convert it to degress
SiteLongitude = -m_Util.DMSToDegrees(CommandString("Gg"))

' Convert from AP 0-359 westward to ASCOM format +/- 180 +E
If SiteLongitude < -180# Then SiteLongitude = SiteLongitude + 360#

This is the entire AP documentation on the topic (leaves quite a bit
to be desired - as you can see is is VERY open to interpretation:

Command: :Gg#
Response: +DDD*MM# or +DDD*MM:SS# if long format
Gets the current longitude.

It would be helpful if you could send me a serial trace of what the
AP is reporting back when you query the longitude when east (I can't
get to my AP right now because it is in a dome and it is pouring rain
here - can't open the dome to get in - remote computer shut itself
down - sigh).

Please ensure that you have the updated helper2.dll installed from
the ASCOM site. This is required as the old version had a bug in it.

Ajai

--- In ap-gto@..., "Chuck Faranda" <mail_lists2@...>
wrote:

FYI: Ajai is investigating the issue and will report ASAP.

Regards,
Chuck Faranda
http://ccdastro.net

----- Original Message -----
I am running the latest driver for AP GTO mounts (4.1.25)
under ASCOM 4. My mount is a Mach1.
The reported site information is incorrect: after a Get
Lat/Long is done, I get a correct value for Latitude, but
Longitude is wrong:
it reports
E 4 10.00
instead of
E 5 50.00
I checked the AP keypad: it's OK there.
So I suspect a wrong conversion... possibly for all of us
sitting E of Greenwich...


Re: Broken clutch knob

Joe Zeglinski
 

Hi Pete,

If you do decide trying a "screw extractor", to get the rest of it out, it
might be obvious, but I will state it here anyway.

Remove one of the other clutch screws, using a good one to determine how
much remains broken inside. That will give you the maximum depth you can go
with a pilot drill hole, for the extractor - obviously less depth is safer.

I suspect, that it will not take very much torque at all to ease out the
broken stub. Mere friction alone might almost ease it out since it wasn't
really screwed in tight.

Joe

----- Original Message -----
From: "Peter Santangeli" <peter@...>
To: <ap-gto@...>
Sent: Saturday, December 15, 2007 12:27 PM
Subject: [ap-gto] Re: Broken clutch knob



Maybe a picture is indeed worth 1000 words... Here is a shot of the
broken knob:

http://www.santangeli.net/knob.jpg

As you can see, the device is actually a hollow threaded aluminum tube
with the knob part screwed into it. The walls of the tube are not that
thick, but should take quite a bit of torque without breaking. All I
can assume is that the knob got banged longitudinally somehow, and the
tube broke.

The rest of the tube (with the "outer" thread) is unfortunately still
in the mount.

Pete