Date   

Re: Mach1 declination gearbox housing

jybeninger
 

Hi

I just added a photo of the loose screws in a new photo folder
named "Jean-Yves".

Thank you

Jean-Yves


in the --- In ap-gto@..., "jybeninger" <jy@...> wrote:

Thanks Rick for your reply.
Rolland, Howard, here is a question for you:

I studied the housing for a while and it is definitely loose ...
that's no good ...

I have removed the 4 small screws from the cover of the declination
gearbox housing, then pulled the cover to look inside.

There are two long screws inside that are very loose: what should I
do?

Note that I am in Singapore and sending the mount all the way to
USA
does not appeal much to me ... does it look like something simple?
Should I tighten the two screws? Is there some alignment procedure
to
follow?

Note that I have not connected the power supply yet nor any
cables ... I am still doing the "visual" control of the mount.

I have the mount in front of my desk, on an AP portable pier, which
makes it easy to control everything.

Thank you and best regards

Jean-Yves beninger


--- In ap-gto@..., "Rick K" <JunkMailGoesHere@> wrote:

This doesn't sound right. Mine does not have any obvious
flexibility
or movement that I can notice.

Rick.



--- In ap-gto@..., "jybeninger" <jy@> wrote:

Hi,

I would like to have confirmation that the following are normal
on my
Mach1:

- The declination motor/gearbox housing is not tightly fixed:
the
gearbox can be lifted slightly and the worm gear seems to
disengage
when lifting it (about 1/2 inch lift on the "plug side").

- The right ascension gearbox housing is tightly fixed.

Is it the normal condition?

Thanks

Jean-Yves


Re: Mach1 declination gearbox housing

jybeninger
 

Thanks Rick for your reply.
Rolland, Howard, here is a question for you:

I studied the housing for a while and it is definitely loose ...
that's no good ...

I have removed the 4 small screws from the cover of the declination
gearbox housing, then pulled the cover to look inside.

There are two long screws inside that are very loose: what should I
do?

Note that I am in Singapore and sending the mount all the way to USA
does not appeal much to me ... does it look like something simple?
Should I tighten the two screws? Is there some alignment procedure to
follow?

Note that I have not connected the power supply yet nor any
cables ... I am still doing the "visual" control of the mount.

I have the mount in front of my desk, on an AP portable pier, which
makes it easy to control everything.

Thank you and best regards

Jean-Yves beninger


--- In ap-gto@..., "Rick K" <JunkMailGoesHere@...> wrote:

This doesn't sound right. Mine does not have any obvious flexibility
or movement that I can notice.

Rick.



--- In ap-gto@..., "jybeninger" <jy@> wrote:

Hi,

I would like to have confirmation that the following are normal
on my
Mach1:

- The declination motor/gearbox housing is not tightly fixed: the
gearbox can be lifted slightly and the worm gear seems to
disengage
when lifting it (about 1/2 inch lift on the "plug side").

- The right ascension gearbox housing is tightly fixed.

Is it the normal condition?

Thanks

Jean-Yves


Re: Mach1 declination gearbox housing

observe_m13
 

This doesn't sound right. Mine does not have any obvious flexibility
or movement that I can notice.

Rick.

--- In ap-gto@..., "jybeninger" <jy@...> wrote:

Hi,

I would like to have confirmation that the following are normal on my
Mach1:

- The declination motor/gearbox housing is not tightly fixed: the
gearbox can be lifted slightly and the worm gear seems to disengage
when lifting it (about 1/2 inch lift on the "plug side").

- The right ascension gearbox housing is tightly fixed.

Is it the normal condition?

Thanks

Jean-Yves


Re: Runaway mount

Peter Santangeli
 

Thanks!

I just did an archive search, and found an interesting thread. It
seems that some people had issues with power cables that lead to
runaway slewing.

I *have* been having occasional power cable issues too, so maybe
that's the hint I need. I'll try the fix suggested (spreading the
halves of the inner prong in the supply cable).

Is the inner prong the ground? Is this actually a ground issue? If
so, might it also affect the focuser?

Maybe someone from AP has an idea.

Pete
--- In ap-gto@..., "John Winfield" <winfij@...> wrote:

Hi Pete,

I use pretty much exactly the same setup and have never had that
problem, although I use 100% PC control - I don't even have the
handset connected to the mount.

What versions of controller rom etc do you have? I use a CP2 with
rev
D chip and as I say it works flawlessly, for both slewing and focus.
I seem to remember reading about manual slew runaway on the group
here
in the past - did you try searching the archives?

John


--- In ap-gto@..., "Peter Santangeli" <peter@> wrote:


Sorry, I guess I'm not being clear about the setup.

- The focusser is a JMI DXF3M with built in motor.
- The motor is plugged into the AP900.
- The focus commands are being generated by FocusMax, which is
using
the ASCOM driver for the AP900
- The ASCOM driver is sending focus commands (I assume) to the
AP900
- The AP900 is driving the focus motor

Pete

--- In ap-gto@..., kgkirkley@ wrote:


In a message dated 9/29/07 8:20:40 PM, peter@ writes:


It's a simple JMI focus motor plugged into the AP900, then
controlled
via the mount and the ASCOM driver. It *should* work with
focusMax.

Pete
So the JMI focus motor is just getting its power from the AP900.
That doesn't mean the mount is controlling the focus motor.
If there are power problems with the power to the mount then
that
might have
an influence on the power to the focus motor..

Kent Kirkley



**************************************
See what's new at http://www.aol.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: Runaway mount

Peter Santangeli
 

I never run above 600. I seem to remember it happens when I'm
centering, so anything 64x and up.

It's a scary/startling enough thing when it happens that I've never
let it run forever just to see what happens :-)

Pete

--- In ap-gto@..., "Keith Graham" <kag@...> wrote:

Hi Peter,

What slew speed are you using when the scope continues to run after
you release the keypad button? When I slew at 600 or 900 using the
keypad this does not happen. But if I slew at 1200, the mount does
contunue to run for a few seconds after release of the button. I do
not know why this happens, but I never slew using the keypad at 1200
anyhow as there really is no reason for me to do.

Keith Graham

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: Upgrade from CP on an AP900

Woodwind
 

Thanks

Will try to follow in your footsteps.

Murray

Brian Coote <dbcoote@...> wrote: Hi Murray,
I certainly don't require any further upgrade. I am imaging at the moment and haven't had a moments problem with the new box.
THe only other alteration to my setup was adding an aluminium bar extension to the rear of my scope to carry the cable bundles clear of the CP3 box.
The only other upgrade I can think of is your keypad. If you haven't already done so this upgrade is downloaded from the AP website.
All the best,
Brian
http://www.bcoote-astro.com/default.htm

----- Original Message -----
From: Murray Hammick
To: ap-gto@...
Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 1:19 AM
Subject: Re: [ap-gto] Upgrade from CP on an AP900

Brian,

Thanks for the explanation - seemed to be very clear. It looks like a relatively easy conversion and I think I will get onto AP and see what the costs are.

As a matter of interest, have you done anything else to the mount to improve it - you mentioned the tracking problems - but is there anything else one might look at in conjunction with the CP upgrade ?

Murray

Brian Coote <dbcoote@...> wrote: Hi Murray,
Sorry I was a bit hurried and on my way to work on my earlier response.
This is certainly a 'home project'. I am in Australia and everything including a complete lobotomy falls into the home project category.

You only require a set of Imperial / English / Us Hex Allen Keys for the job. Removing the old CP1 box and it's saddle is the only part that requires a bit of time.
The entire circuitry has to be removed before you can unscrew the CP1 box and it's saddle.
After you remove the top cover you unscrew the remaining two bottom screws on the front panel.
This only leaves the RA and Dec drive sockets to be unscrewed from memory before you lift out the circuitry in one piece. The drive sockets are held by 2 screws each.
The CP3 box is only 1/4 the thickness of the CP1 box and just sits on a half dovetail locked by 2 grub screws.

This may sound complex but I did it during my lunch break one day. If you can replace a card in a PC you can do it easily.

My reasons for changing were twofold.
1: I couldn't get reliable PEC with PemPro. I ended up not using it at all as in general it made things much worse.
2: I was also getting an erratic movement during the guide star exposure which smeared the guidestar into a streak. This seemed to be associated with Pulse Guide.
If I shut down PulseGuide and restarted it after tracking was running it seemed to be OK.

I have only done several lots of Ha with the new box but it has been fine in every regard and giving the sort of results I expect fron an AP mount.

Hope this is clear.
Brian
http://www.bcoote-astro.com/default.htm
----- Original Message -----
From: Murray Hammick
To: ap-gto@...
Sent: Sunday, September 30, 2007 5:04 AM
Subject: Re: [ap-gto] Upgrade from CP on an AP900

Brian

Thanks for the feedback.

Was this a home project or did you send it off to be done by AP ? What sort of cost are talking about and also what were your main reasons for the mod ?

I have read - possibly on the AP site - that some mods are not worth it on older AP900s as the rest of the mount cannot be upgraded to take advantage of the better performance of the upgraded item. Was this a consideration with the CP1 - CP3 change.

Look forward to hearing back from you.

Murray

Brian Coote <dbcoote@...> wrote: Hi Murray,
I have just upgraded my GTOCP1 controller to the CP3.
I too was a bit unsure of how worthwhile it was.
I was having problems with running PEC on the old CP1.

I have only done 3 x 30min subs in Ha with the new CP3. This was with a 6 sec guide exposure and the 30 min subs gave me FWHM figures of 1.55 arc sec.
Very worthwhile.
The test image is at

http://www.bcoote-astro.com/lagoon_test.htm

Brian
http://www.bcoote-astro.com/default.htm
----- Original Message -----
From: mphammick
To: ap-gto@...
Sent: Thursday, September 27, 2007 6:52 AM
Subject: [ap-gto] Upgrade from CP on an AP900

Anyone contemplated an upgrade of the CP on an AP900. I have the CP1
series and wondered whether one can do anything to modernise it - or
indeed whether it is worth it.

Murray


Re: Upgrade from CP on an AP900

bcoote37
 

Hi Murray,
I certainly don't require any further upgrade. I am imaging at the moment and haven't had a moments problem with the new box.
THe only other alteration to my setup was adding an aluminium bar extension to the rear of my scope to carry the cable bundles clear of the CP3 box.
The only other upgrade I can think of is your keypad. If you haven't already done so this upgrade is downloaded from the AP website.
All the best,
Brian
http://www.bcoote-astro.com/default.htm

----- Original Message -----
From: Murray Hammick
To: ap-gto@...
Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 1:19 AM
Subject: Re: [ap-gto] Upgrade from CP on an AP900



Brian,

Thanks for the explanation - seemed to be very clear. It looks like a relatively easy conversion and I think I will get onto AP and see what the costs are.

As a matter of interest, have you done anything else to the mount to improve it - you mentioned the tracking problems - but is there anything else one might look at in conjunction with the CP upgrade ?

Murray

Brian Coote <dbcoote@...> wrote: Hi Murray,
Sorry I was a bit hurried and on my way to work on my earlier response.
This is certainly a 'home project'. I am in Australia and everything including a complete lobotomy falls into the home project category.

You only require a set of Imperial / English / Us Hex Allen Keys for the job. Removing the old CP1 box and it's saddle is the only part that requires a bit of time.
The entire circuitry has to be removed before you can unscrew the CP1 box and it's saddle.
After you remove the top cover you unscrew the remaining two bottom screws on the front panel.
This only leaves the RA and Dec drive sockets to be unscrewed from memory before you lift out the circuitry in one piece. The drive sockets are held by 2 screws each.
The CP3 box is only 1/4 the thickness of the CP1 box and just sits on a half dovetail locked by 2 grub screws.

This may sound complex but I did it during my lunch break one day. If you can replace a card in a PC you can do it easily.

My reasons for changing were twofold.
1: I couldn't get reliable PEC with PemPro. I ended up not using it at all as in general it made things much worse.
2: I was also getting an erratic movement during the guide star exposure which smeared the guidestar into a streak. This seemed to be associated with Pulse Guide.
If I shut down PulseGuide and restarted it after tracking was running it seemed to be OK.

I have only done several lots of Ha with the new box but it has been fine in every regard and giving the sort of results I expect fron an AP mount.

Hope this is clear.
Brian
http://www.bcoote-astro.com/default.htm
----- Original Message -----
From: Murray Hammick
To: ap-gto@...
Sent: Sunday, September 30, 2007 5:04 AM
Subject: Re: [ap-gto] Upgrade from CP on an AP900

Brian

Thanks for the feedback.

Was this a home project or did you send it off to be done by AP ? What sort of cost are talking about and also what were your main reasons for the mod ?

I have read - possibly on the AP site - that some mods are not worth it on older AP900s as the rest of the mount cannot be upgraded to take advantage of the better performance of the upgraded item. Was this a consideration with the CP1 - CP3 change.

Look forward to hearing back from you.

Murray

Brian Coote <dbcoote@...> wrote: Hi Murray,
I have just upgraded my GTOCP1 controller to the CP3.
I too was a bit unsure of how worthwhile it was.
I was having problems with running PEC on the old CP1.

I have only done 3 x 30min subs in Ha with the new CP3. This was with a 6 sec guide exposure and the 30 min subs gave me FWHM figures of 1.55 arc sec.
Very worthwhile.
The test image is at

http://www.bcoote-astro.com/lagoon_test.htm

Brian
http://www.bcoote-astro.com/default.htm
----- Original Message -----
From: mphammick
To: ap-gto@...
Sent: Thursday, September 27, 2007 6:52 AM
Subject: [ap-gto] Upgrade from CP on an AP900

Anyone contemplated an upgrade of the CP on an AP900. I have the CP1
series and wondered whether one can do anything to modernise it - or
indeed whether it is worth it.

Murray


Re: Upgrade from CP on an AP900

Woodwind
 

Brian,


Thanks for the explanation - seemed to be very clear. It looks like a relatively easy conversion and I think I will get onto AP and see what the costs are.

As a matter of interest, have you done anything else to the mount to improve it - you mentioned the tracking problems - but is there anything else one might look at in conjunction with the CP upgrade ?

Murray



Brian Coote <dbcoote@...> wrote: Hi Murray,
Sorry I was a bit hurried and on my way to work on my earlier response.
This is certainly a 'home project'. I am in Australia and everything including a complete lobotomy falls into the home project category.

You only require a set of Imperial / English / Us Hex Allen Keys for the job. Removing the old CP1 box and it's saddle is the only part that requires a bit of time.
The entire circuitry has to be removed before you can unscrew the CP1 box and it's saddle.
After you remove the top cover you unscrew the remaining two bottom screws on the front panel.
This only leaves the RA and Dec drive sockets to be unscrewed from memory before you lift out the circuitry in one piece. The drive sockets are held by 2 screws each.
The CP3 box is only 1/4 the thickness of the CP1 box and just sits on a half dovetail locked by 2 grub screws.

This may sound complex but I did it during my lunch break one day. If you can replace a card in a PC you can do it easily.

My reasons for changing were twofold.
1: I couldn't get reliable PEC with PemPro. I ended up not using it at all as in general it made things much worse.
2: I was also getting an erratic movement during the guide star exposure which smeared the guidestar into a streak. This seemed to be associated with Pulse Guide.
If I shut down PulseGuide and restarted it after tracking was running it seemed to be OK.

I have only done several lots of Ha with the new box but it has been fine in every regard and giving the sort of results I expect fron an AP mount.

Hope this is clear.
Brian
http://www.bcoote-astro.com/default.htm

----- Original Message -----
From: Murray Hammick
To: ap-gto@...
Sent: Sunday, September 30, 2007 5:04 AM
Subject: Re: [ap-gto] Upgrade from CP on an AP900

Brian

Thanks for the feedback.

Was this a home project or did you send it off to be done by AP ? What sort of cost are talking about and also what were your main reasons for the mod ?

I have read - possibly on the AP site - that some mods are not worth it on older AP900s as the rest of the mount cannot be upgraded to take advantage of the better performance of the upgraded item. Was this a consideration with the CP1 - CP3 change.

Look forward to hearing back from you.

Murray

Brian Coote <dbcoote@...> wrote: Hi Murray,
I have just upgraded my GTOCP1 controller to the CP3.
I too was a bit unsure of how worthwhile it was.
I was having problems with running PEC on the old CP1.

I have only done 3 x 30min subs in Ha with the new CP3. This was with a 6 sec guide exposure and the 30 min subs gave me FWHM figures of 1.55 arc sec.
Very worthwhile.
The test image is at

http://www.bcoote-astro.com/lagoon_test.htm

Brian
http://www.bcoote-astro.com/default.htm
----- Original Message -----
From: mphammick
To: ap-gto@...
Sent: Thursday, September 27, 2007 6:52 AM
Subject: [ap-gto] Upgrade from CP on an AP900

Anyone contemplated an upgrade of the CP on an AP900. I have the CP1
series and wondered whether one can do anything to modernise it - or
indeed whether it is worth it.

Murray


Re: Runaway mount

Keith Graham <kag@...>
 

Hi Peter,

What slew speed are you using when the scope continues to run after you release the keypad button? When I slew at 600 or 900 using the keypad this does not happen. But if I slew at 1200, the mount does contunue to run for a few seconds after release of the button. I do not know why this happens, but I never slew using the keypad at 1200 anyhow as there really is no reason for me to do.

Keith Graham


Re: Runaway mount

John Winfield
 

Hi Pete,

I use pretty much exactly the same setup and have never had that
problem, although I use 100% PC control - I don't even have the
handset connected to the mount.

What versions of controller rom etc do you have? I use a CP2 with rev
D chip and as I say it works flawlessly, for both slewing and focus.
I seem to remember reading about manual slew runaway on the group here
in the past - did you try searching the archives?

John

--- In ap-gto@..., "Peter Santangeli" <peter@...> wrote:


Sorry, I guess I'm not being clear about the setup.

- The focusser is a JMI DXF3M with built in motor.
- The motor is plugged into the AP900.
- The focus commands are being generated by FocusMax, which is using
the ASCOM driver for the AP900
- The ASCOM driver is sending focus commands (I assume) to the AP900
- The AP900 is driving the focus motor

Pete

--- In ap-gto@..., kgkirkley@ wrote:


In a message dated 9/29/07 8:20:40 PM, peter@ writes:


It's a simple JMI focus motor plugged into the AP900, then
controlled
via the mount and the ASCOM driver. It *should* work with
focusMax.

Pete
So the JMI focus motor is just getting its power from the AP900.
That doesn't mean the mount is controlling the focus motor.
If there are power problems with the power to the mount then that
might have
an influence on the power to the focus motor..

Kent Kirkley



**************************************
See what's new at http://www.aol.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: Runaway mount

Peter Santangeli
 

Sorry, I guess I'm not being clear about the setup.

- The focusser is a JMI DXF3M with built in motor.
- The motor is plugged into the AP900.
- The focus commands are being generated by FocusMax, which is using
the ASCOM driver for the AP900
- The ASCOM driver is sending focus commands (I assume) to the AP900
- The AP900 is driving the focus motor

Pete

--- In ap-gto@..., kgkirkley@... wrote:


In a message dated 9/29/07 8:20:40 PM, peter@... writes:


It's a simple JMI focus motor plugged into the AP900, then
controlled
via the mount and the ASCOM driver. It *should* work with
focusMax.

Pete
So the JMI focus motor is just getting its power from the AP900.
That doesn't mean the mount is controlling the focus motor.
If there are power problems with the power to the mount then that
might have
an influence on the power to the focus motor..

Kent Kirkley



**************************************
See what's new at http://www.aol.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: Runaway mount

Peter Santangeli
 

It's a simple JMI focus motor plugged into the AP900, then controlled
via the mount and the ASCOM driver. It *should* work with focusMax.

Pete

--- In ap-gto@..., kgkirkley@... wrote:


In a message dated 9/29/07 7:13:21 PM, peter@... writes:


(The focusser is controlled by the AP900)
Why is the focuser controller by the AP900???

Kent Kirkley


**************************************
See what's new at
http://www.aol.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Mach1 declination gearbox housing

jybeninger
 

Hi,

I would like to have confirmation that the following are normal on my
Mach1:

- The declination motor/gearbox housing is not tightly fixed: the
gearbox can be lifted slightly and the worm gear seems to disengage
when lifting it (about 1/2 inch lift on the "plug side").

- The right ascension gearbox housing is tightly fixed.

Is it the normal condition?

Thanks

Jean-Yves


Runaway mount

Peter Santangeli
 

For a few years my AP900 has shown an odd behaviour with slewing
manually with the keypad. Occasionally, when I release a direction
button, it doesn't stop, but just keeps on going.

I've been meaning to look into it, but frankly, I've just gotten used
to hitting the "stop" button at then end of each manual slew, and that
stops the runaway behaviour.

Last week though, I tried using FocusMax for the first time, and I saw
what seemed to be exactly the same behavior with the focusers. In the
middle of the focus max run, it would just take off in one direction
forever. (The focusser is controlled by the AP900).

Maybe they are unrelated... but it seems odd, and has reminded me again
that I should fix the run away slew problem.

Anyone have any ideas or similar experiences?

Pete


Re: Runaway mount

Kent Kirkley
 

In a message dated 9/29/07 8:20:40 PM, peter@... writes:


It's a simple JMI focus motor plugged into the AP900, then controlled
via the mount and the ASCOM driver. It *should* work with focusMax.

Pete
So the JMI focus motor is just getting its power from the AP900.
That doesn't mean the mount is controlling the focus motor.
If there are power problems with the power to the mount then that might have
an influence on the power to the focus motor..

Kent Kirkley



**************************************
See what's new at http://www.aol.com


Re: Dove08 with Mach1

jybeninger
 

Thanks Howard,

You are right, I checked and still have the four 1/4-20x5/8" socket
head cap screws I received with my DOVE08, I will use them.

I am impressed with the quality of the Mach1 out of the box ... still
going through the manual and learning how to best use it.

Cheers

Jean-Yves

--- In ap-gto@..., "Howard" <howard@...> wrote:

Dear Jean-Yves,



You should have received four 1/4-20x5/8" socket head cap screws for
attaching the DOVE08 to the Q4047. They should have been included
with
the DOVE08 (not with the Q4047). If you have an older DOVE08,
you may
no longer have the screws handy. If you just received your
DOVE08, and
the screws were either missing or the wrong ones, just give me a
direct
(off-group) e-mail at Astro-Physics and I'll get you taken care of.



There is no problem with removing the declination hub plate. We
advised leaving it in place so that customers wouldn't end up
losing it.
Your mounting method is just fine.



Mag. 7 skies!



Howard Hedlund

Astro-Physics, Inc.

815-282-1513

________________________________

From: ap-gto@... [mailto:ap-gto@...] On
Behalf
Of jybeninger
Sent: Saturday, September 29, 2007 8:32 AM
To: ap-gto@...
Subject: [ap-gto] Dove08 with Mach1



Hi,

I am going through my new Mach 1 and would like confirmation of the
way to mount the DOVE08 to the Mach1.
I have done differently than what is writen in the manual page 12,
last two lines.

I have done:
- Remove 6 screws holding the Declination hub plate
- Remove the declination hub plate
- Mount the Q4047 in replacement of the declination hub plate
- Fix it with the 6 screws
- I should attach the DOVE08 to the Q4047 using 4 socket head cap
screws but the screws provided are flat socket cap screws, that is
an
error I guess?

Am I correct or wrong?

Thank you very much

Jean-Yves







New File added

polarastro <lkdodd@...>
 

I added the first image with my new 1200 at a dark site during the
recent SE Queensland astrofest, australia. I havent processed the
image much and needs more work. Having just got back into imaging
learning to use CCD, Maxim, adobe etc is alot with a busy work/family
life. Haven't had a chance to plug my PC into the mount and use PEMpro
yet.

Quality of the mount blew the attendees of the astrocamp away.

PS sorry it somehow was added to the 1200 mount folder, still learning
to poperly use Yahoo!!!

luke dodd


New file uploaded to ap-gto

ap-gto@...
 

Hello,

This email message is a notification to let you know that
a file has been uploaded to the Files area of the ap-gto
group.

File : /1200 Mount Modifications/m20draftsml-1.jpg
Uploaded by : polarastro <lkdodd@...>
Description : M20 star12ED,1200gto

You can access this file at the URL:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/ap-gto/files/1200%20Mount%20Modifications/m20draftsml-1.jpg

To learn more about file sharing for your group, please visit:
http://help.yahoo.com/help/us/groups/files

Regards,

polarastro <lkdodd@...>


Re: Upgrade from CP on an AP900

bcoote37
 

Hi Murray,
Sorry I was a bit hurried and on my way to work on my earlier response.
This is certainly a 'home project'. I am in Australia and everything including a complete lobotomy falls into the home project category.

You only require a set of Imperial / English / Us Hex Allen Keys for the job. Removing the old CP1 box and it's saddle is the only part that requires a bit of time.
The entire circuitry has to be removed before you can unscrew the CP1 box and it's saddle.
After you remove the top cover you unscrew the remaining two bottom screws on the front panel.
This only leaves the RA and Dec drive sockets to be unscrewed from memory before you lift out the circuitry in one piece. The drive sockets are held by 2 screws each.
The CP3 box is only 1/4 the thickness of the CP1 box and just sits on a half dovetail locked by 2 grub screws.

This may sound complex but I did it during my lunch break one day. If you can replace a card in a PC you can do it easily.

My reasons for changing were twofold.
1: I couldn't get reliable PEC with PemPro. I ended up not using it at all as in general it made things much worse.
2: I was also getting an erratic movement during the guide star exposure which smeared the guidestar into a streak. This seemed to be associated with Pulse Guide.
If I shut down PulseGuide and restarted it after tracking was running it seemed to be OK.

I have only done several lots of Ha with the new box but it has been fine in every regard and giving the sort of results I expect fron an AP mount.

Hope this is clear.
Brian
http://www.bcoote-astro.com/default.htm

----- Original Message -----
From: Murray Hammick
To: ap-gto@...
Sent: Sunday, September 30, 2007 5:04 AM
Subject: Re: [ap-gto] Upgrade from CP on an AP900


Brian

Thanks for the feedback.

Was this a home project or did you send it off to be done by AP ? What sort of cost are talking about and also what were your main reasons for the mod ?

I have read - possibly on the AP site - that some mods are not worth it on older AP900s as the rest of the mount cannot be upgraded to take advantage of the better performance of the upgraded item. Was this a consideration with the CP1 - CP3 change.

Look forward to hearing back from you.

Murray

Brian Coote <dbcoote@...> wrote: Hi Murray,
I have just upgraded my GTOCP1 controller to the CP3.
I too was a bit unsure of how worthwhile it was.
I was having problems with running PEC on the old CP1.

I have only done 3 x 30min subs in Ha with the new CP3. This was with a 6 sec guide exposure and the 30 min subs gave me FWHM figures of 1.55 arc sec.
Very worthwhile.
The test image is at

http://www.bcoote-astro.com/lagoon_test.htm

Brian
http://www.bcoote-astro.com/default.htm
----- Original Message -----
From: mphammick
To: ap-gto@...
Sent: Thursday, September 27, 2007 6:52 AM
Subject: [ap-gto] Upgrade from CP on an AP900

Anyone contemplated an upgrade of the CP on an AP900. I have the CP1
series and wondered whether one can do anything to modernise it - or
indeed whether it is worth it.

Murray


Re: Mach1 transport case

Joe Zeglinski
 

Hi,

On the subject of cases, I have been looking for a couple of
"Pelican-like" moulded cases to pack the two halves of an AP900.

General case question:
Has anyone come across cases that have "interlocking ribs" on the bottom
and the case lid?
I would like to stack my two cases , and perhaps lash them together.
Interlocking channels help to keep two such (identical) cases from sliding
apart.

Thanks for any references.

Joe

----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Gustafson" <laservet@...>
To: <ap-gto@...>
Sent: Saturday, September 29, 2007 8:36 AM
Subject: [ap-gto] Re: Mach1 transport case


"jybeninger" <jy@...> wrote:

Hi,

I'll reply to my question:

The Mach1 and optional shaft fit in a Undewater kinetics model 821.
The dimensions are just nice and it is has the airline dimensions ...
although too heavy I think for a carry on luggage.

http://www.uwkinetics.com/products/detail.php?ProductID=68&cat=11
I went with the Storm iM2720. Too large for carry on, 10" deep, but it
has enough room for extra foam around the mount. Heavy, but the handle
and wheels help.

http://www.cases4less.com/

http://www.closedcellfoams.com/polyethylene.html

I've been told Storm cases are just as good as Pelican. However, I find
the lid of this Storm case is not as robust as those of similar size
Pelicans. OTOH, the Storm hinge runs the full length of the lid and it
does open easier, at least until the Pelicans are broken in.

Paul Gustafson



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