Re: AP1100 autoguiding


Steven Panish
 

Hi Greg,
Unfortunately it is rare  to find cone adjustment screws actually on plates or rings.  Vixen does it for some  premium refractors.  Generally you are going to have to drill and tap holes for the screws...somewhere.  Maybe in the rings.  You need them front and rear, and left and right.   And you may have to use shims where nothing else will work.    I use shims made from aluminum flashing against the tube of my FSQ106.  It's crude but works.  On SCTs I've put adjustment screws in the dovetail attached to the tube (actually the dovetail bar is attached to the rear cell casting and a similar casting in the front).  

However you do it, the program will help.  With AP components you likely won't be too far out.

Steve

On Sun, May 15, 2022 at 3:56 PM Greg Vaughn <gregvaughn@...> wrote:

Steve,

 

Thanks for the advice about ConeSharp – I was unfamiliar with it.  I looked up the instructions and it seems pretty straightforward.

 

However, I am curious how you are supposed to adjust out the error and bring the alignment star back in the center of view.   It says to only use the adjustment bolts at the front and the back of the dovetail.  Here is the quotation: ”Remember that you are only allowed to make corrections using the alignment adjusting bolts at the front/back of the dovetail.”

 

I am using a 130EDFGT on a Mach2 on which I’m using an AP DOVEDV10 saddle plate.  The 130 is using the rings  that I purchased with it and they are mounted on an SBD12 12in plate.  The screws for the rings fit in countersunk holes in the plate and have no adjustment.   So I’m at a loss to find the adjusting bolts.   (The Google hit from Cloudy Nights on the topic of ConeSharp proclaims “NO SHIMS.”)

 

Any insight about how you do this would be appreciated.

 

Cheers,

Greg


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