Re: Mount is "lost"

Dale Ghent

The Polemaster is designed to get you pretty close, but resolution limitations of the small focal length of its C-mount lens will naturally impart a limit to its accuracy. I would say that it alone is sufficient for < 400mm focal lengths.

I use the Polemaster on my mounts to get a close PA, then I switch to ShapCap's wonderful PA tool to quickly dial it in. Recent versions of SharpCap support using ASTAP as the solver, so the process is quick with near-instance solves. The bonus to this is that ShapCap is also syncing the solved coordinates to the mount while it's doing this, so that part of setting up is taken care of at the same time.

I do use PHD2's drift align tool when I'm imaging from a spot in my yard where Polaris isn't visible. It's accurate as well but getting used to using it is much more involved and it's easy to get confused. If one wants to try these tools and Polaris is visible, I would recommend starting with SharpCap (combined with ASTAP) over PHD2.


On Jun 5, 2020, at 4:24 PM, Brian Valente <> wrote:

I'm already not going back to the polemaster app!

the main problem i found with polemaster is that it's just not that accurate. around 30 arcsec but with my main camera/ota and sharpcap i can usually get 5-10arcsec

On Fri, Jun 5, 2020 at 12:47 PM Leszek <> wrote:
A word of caution though. Once you try sharpcap with polemaster you will never go back to the QHY polemaster app. :) I only use the polemaster app on my android phone if I'm in a remote location without my computer.


Brian Valente

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