I have seen the flurry of posts. Let me offer some simple
suggestions. Don't put any glue or any other stuff down in the hole.
I think that is a low probability of success and higher probability
or making the problem worse.
Next, Are you comfortable with working with the suggested tools? If
so, then take the easy-out screw extractor advice. If not, then have
someone that is comfortable with tools do this or take it to a
machine shop. Of course, you could always mail to AP for repair.
1. First take another stainless steel screw of the same size, put it
in you vise and do a test run of the set punch, drilling, and easy
out insertion. If you can do it in the vise, you can do it in the
2. If it is too hard to center the dril and not slip, then do this
setup with the drill press and light slow drilling.
3. After you are comfortable with the process, set up your mount so
that you can drill straingth down into the screw.
4. Use a set punch to provide a small starting dimple. This would be
a light tap with the hammer, so you get just a small dimple to
prevent the drill from skating across the screw surface.
5. Drill either with the drill press or very steady and carefully
straight down to make a pilot hole. Use a very small drill bit. Be
careful not to break the bit!
6. Now drill a larger hole to the correct size specified bt the
7. Slowly and carefully install the easy out.
8. Slowly and steadily back out the screw extractor, making sure to
apply only perpendicular torque. Make sure the wrench is held
perpendicular to the extractor and that the extractor is parallel
with the screw. Dripping a light oil down the hole (only one drop)
may help if you are worried about the screw being struck or cross
threaded. Wait 5 minutes for the oil to soak around the threads.
9. Completely remove the broken screw.
10. Clean the hole of oil and debris.
11. Celebrate with Holiday Drink of choice!
--- In ap-gto@..., "Peter Santangeli" <peter@...> wrote:
there is not extraordinarily tight. I don't think it broke due toseem
to remember that at one point this summer I noticed the knob wasn'tthat
wobble like that but still tighten".out
and replaced it right away. Live and learn.already
had both the Dec section and RA section back to AP at least once,so
I'd rather avoid another repair visit. I sold my backup G11 lastweek,
so it would leave me without a good mount!jam
nut arrangement. If an attempt is made to use glue, I would use abit to
clean up a spot for the bond, or even drill the size of a heavyduty
paper clip and glue that inside the hole.Maybe ifAll that said, I still think an easy out is the way to go.
the rest of the clutches are loose, movement of the axis may helphole, if
threadedglue of any sort is put on top of it and the other piece is
the twoin, any excess glue will be forced out of the space between
break,broken pieces and into the threads both above and below the
seriouslysince there will be no where else the excess can go. I
threadsdoubt that there is anything that can be done to seal the
there isadequately to prevent this, since the glue is relatively
isno excess to squeeze out, it might work, but the proper amount
wrote:probably difficult to estimate.
to waxinterface of the bolt and threads. Most glues will not adhear
is thatand it forms a fairly good barrier. The thing that troubles me
can beenough force was present to shear the bolt. I am not sure this
though.done without an easy out. I do think and easy out will work
outMost of us that have had trouble with them were trying to get
into thewrench-tightened bolt remains, not hand tightened.
a thread> threads of the broken off stub, it could end up acting like
even> locker, making the broken piece difficult to remove at all,
with<bryonnmissy@>> proper equipment.
wrote:stripped or> >
some> > jammed into the thread wall maybe try crazy glueing, or
otherfor> > strong epoxy, the knob back onto the bolt and let it set
ONLY ifmaybe a
screwcould> > walls.
supposed> > >