Re: Broken clutch knob
Mlooker
Pete,
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If the hole is not blind meaning the broken off blot is not rammed in tight (maybe use a pick and see if it moves). The easiest way I've found to extract a bolt is to use a left hand drill bit. Snap On sells a 5 piece set, just reverse your drill and usually the second you touch the broken bolt it spins right out. Sometimes you need to use a center punch to create a starting point but you must determine that with your situation. Tom
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From: Peter Santangeli To: ap-gto@... Sent: Saturday, December 15, 2007 2:13 PM Subject: [ap-gto] Re: Broken clutch knob Indeed the problem is bad... that part I'm holding is supposed to be at least 3/4 of an inch long. The rest is in the mount. Pete --- In ap-gto@..., "Rick K" <JunkMailGoesHere@...> wrote: > > I am totally confused. If this is the problem, toss it in the garbage > and order a new one from AP on Monday. > > I thought you were talking about the mount having a problem with a > broken off threaded section in the mount itself. That is serious and > is what a picture of would be worth a 1000 words. > > Rick. > > > --- In ap-gto@..., "Peter Santangeli" <peter@> wrote: > > > > > > Maybe a picture is indeed worth 1000 words... Here is a shot of the > > broken knob: > > > > http://www.santangeli.net/knob.jpg > > > > As you can see, the device is actually a hollow threaded aluminum tube > > with the knob part screwed into it. The walls of the tube are not that > > thick, but should take quite a bit of torque without breaking. All I > > can assume is that the knob got banged longitudinally somehow, and the > > tube broke. > > > > The rest of the tube (with the "outer" thread) is unfortunately still > > in the mount. > > > > Pete > > > > > > --- In ap-gto@..., Gregory Nottingham <gnpnotti@> wrote: > > > > > > My experience using Eazy Outs on exhaust studs on cylinder heads has > > > not been good. I know that the telescope situation is different. > > > What is the diameter of screw? As long as you are sure that screw > > > isn't cross-threaded, you should be alright but every-time I've used > > > one, I have gone in with the assumption that I will have to take the > > > head to a machine shop to drill out the stud and the broken, > hardened > > > steel Easy Out. > > > Good luck. > > > Greg > > > On Dec 15, 2007, at 2:01, Peter Santangeli wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > Good suggestion. I was thinking about something like this. > > > > > > > > Pete > > > > > > > > --- In ap-gto@..., kawasaki99@ wrote: > > > > > > > > > > Hello Strong Man, > > > > > Local hardware store ought to sell an (easy-out) > > > > which is a > > > > > sort of a left hand thread tap and the proper size pilot drill > > > > for the > > > > > easy-out. If it's only hand tight to ought to come out. Have an > > > > assistant hold a > > > > > vacuum cleaner hose close to broken screw while drilling the pilot > > > > hole to > > > > > capture any small chips. A small center drill or sharp prick punch > > > > may be necessary > > > > > to ensure the pilot drill puts the hole close to the true > center of > > > > the > > > > > broken screw. Sounds like a lot but it's generally easy. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > **************************************See AOL's top rated recipes > > > > > (http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004) > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > >
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