Re: Broken clutch knob


I am totally confused. If this is the problem, toss it in the garbage
and order a new one from AP on Monday.

I thought you were talking about the mount having a problem with a
broken off threaded section in the mount itself. That is serious and
is what a picture of would be worth a 1000 words.


--- In ap-gto@..., "Peter Santangeli" <peter@...> wrote:

Maybe a picture is indeed worth 1000 words... Here is a shot of the
broken knob:

As you can see, the device is actually a hollow threaded aluminum tube
with the knob part screwed into it. The walls of the tube are not that
thick, but should take quite a bit of torque without breaking. All I
can assume is that the knob got banged longitudinally somehow, and the
tube broke.

The rest of the tube (with the "outer" thread) is unfortunately still
in the mount.


--- In ap-gto@..., Gregory Nottingham <gnpnotti@> wrote:

My experience using Eazy Outs on exhaust studs on cylinder heads has
not been good. I know that the telescope situation is different.
What is the diameter of screw? As long as you are sure that screw
isn't cross-threaded, you should be alright but every-time I've used
one, I have gone in with the assumption that I will have to take the
head to a machine shop to drill out the stud and the broken,
steel Easy Out.
Good luck.
On Dec 15, 2007, at 2:01, Peter Santangeli wrote:

Good suggestion. I was thinking about something like this.


--- In ap-gto@..., kawasaki99@ wrote:

Hello Strong Man,
Local hardware store ought to sell an (easy-out)
which is a
sort of a left hand thread tap and the proper size pilot drill
for the
easy-out. If it's only hand tight to ought to come out. Have an
assistant hold a
vacuum cleaner hose close to broken screw while drilling the pilot
hole to
capture any small chips. A small center drill or sharp prick punch
may be necessary
to ensure the pilot drill puts the hole close to the true
center of
broken screw. Sounds like a lot but it's generally easy.

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