Re: AP900 yellow light


Joe Zeglinski
 

Hi Jeff,

Before you put the rubber between the tines central pin, did you first
push down a knife blade to spread them farther apart? If I suspected the tines
being too close together, perfectly straight and both halves missing the
inside walls of the cable socket, that is what I would try first, even before
the rubber idea.

Since this has happened on a new AP1200, as well as older AP CPx's, it
would suggest defective hardware to begin with, or bad soldering, rather than
central pin tines collapsing together with age or lots of use.

I notice on my CP3 (which may be different from the hardware on the CP2),
that there is a "side contact" tine, and it is not electrically connected to
the walls of the panel socket. I guess AP has a chassis ground (the panel
socket) disconnected from power ground, which might be the side tine contact
(that actually makes contact with the side of the barrel of the power cable
plug).

If forcibly spreading the pin tines apart doesn't work, then going back to
my suggestion, I would either add a washer under the panel socket nut, or find
an identical flat nut, and add a second one.

But first, I would simply add a washer, loose over the nut, and see if
raising the position of the cable - and it is still then firmly tightened
down - makes the problem go away. Then it is a "pressure" caused defect.

Also, Anthony's problematic AP1200 CP3 (and his DC cable) - acquired a
year ago and still under warranty - could be sent back to Rolando, for
analysis of the problem. He might be able to then help several others in this
CPx situation.

Joe

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Young" <jey@...>
To: <ap-gto@...>
Sent: Monday, October 22, 2007 6:41 AM
Subject: RE: [ap-gto] Re: AP900 yellow light


Joe --

Let's assume for a minute that the two tines of the central pin (on the
CP2 box) aren't sufficiently sprung (or sufficiently large). When the
cable is screwed in loosely, it tilts slightly, causing the barrel of
the socket (on the power cable) to contact the central pin. When the
cable is screwed in tightly, it holds the barrel absolutely upright,
where it exactly misses the pin all the way around.

Not sure if this is the case or not, but it's another scenario that fits
some of the known data better (that is -- that springing the tines or
putting a piece of rubber between them -- helps in at least some cases).

-- Jeff.



________________________________

From: ap-gto@... [mailto:ap-gto@...] On
Behalf Of Joseph Zeglinski
Sent: Sunday, October 21, 2007 11:41 PM
To: ap-gto@...
Subject: [ap-gto] Re: AP900 yellow light



Hi Anthony,

Now that is indeed worrisome. I can't think of a cause for that
happening
with at least 3 controllers, possibly more. You would figure
that tightening
the cable down harder, should only improve contact.

The best I can surmise is that screwing down the cable tightly,
is pushing
the central pin down enough to warp the entire connector
assembly, and
breaking some internal spring terminal contact. The central pin
should be
shorter than the plug's central hollow, but what if the cable
plug is equal,
or a hair shorter inside, than the full depth travel? Since the
pin has
"bottomed" inside the plug, you could end up pushing down hard
on the pin, and
the circuit board it is mounted on.

If my W.A.G. is correct, this can be easily proven, and solved,
by getting
a nylon (or even metal), washer with a hole very tightly equal
to the outside
diameter of the thread section. When the washer/spacer is placed
down flat to
the panel, the cable can then be screwed down very tightly,
right upto the
washer, without the central pin going up the cable end all the
way, and no
longer be forced down onto it's PCB connection.

It may be that, such a close tolerance between AP's selected
socket, and
the mating cable plug - is too exact. After all, the two
connector halves
aren't necessarily a matched set from one connector
manufacturer.

Even so, if the socket is "directly soldered" (rather than
wired) to the
PCB (and I don't know that), then it might even be sitting,
"raised up" a
hair, off the PCB surface due to a poor pre-soldering insertion,
so that
screwing down the cable pushes down on the overly upward
extended pin - even
if that pin actually were short enough for the tip not to bottom
into the plug
on the cable. The cable connector would still be pushing down
with it's black
nylon tip onto the "circular metal pad" at the base of the
central pin (have a
close look inside the socket) - applying force to the PCB.

Proposed solution:

I think, that an outer spacing washer, equal in thickness to the
well
discussed "wiggle factor", will help fix this. A cleaner way of
doing this, if
this is the cause, and to tidy things up after proving it works,
would be as
follows:

Carefully remove the ring holding the socket to the CP3 panel,
and put the
spacing washer under it, between it and the panel, then tighten
the screw back
down again. You will have one less thread to screw down the
cable, but
probably way more than enough, and the cable will no longer
screw down as far,
but cable will still be very tight - no more wiggling required.

Any thoughts on this conjecture?

Joe

... for want of a nail, a horse was lost - for want of a spacing
washer
.....etc.

----- Original Message -----
From: "ayiomamitis" <ayiomami@...
<mailto:ayiomami%40otenet.gr> >
To: <ap-gto@... <mailto:ap-gto%40yahoogroups.com> >
Sent: Sunday, October 21, 2007 5:30 PM
Subject: [ap-gto] Re: AP900 yellow light

Joe,

My AP1200GTO is also a CP3 with the screw-on plug as you
describe ...
it was received summer of last year.

Anthony.










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